HATING the 2026 LC Suspension - Very busy & unsettled - Anyone else feel this way on this year?

Just put the OME MT64 on my ‘24 FE. 10700 miles on the OEM suspension and I’d be happy to sell everything cheap and ship it to you if the 2024 setup will work and fix your issues.

Not sure Toyota would swap the shocks if you gave them 2024s but let me know if so. I’m in WA.
 
Just put the OME MT64 on my ‘24 FE. 10700 miles on the OEM suspension and I’d be happy to sell everything cheap and ship it to you if the 2024 setup will work and fix your issues.

Not sure Toyota would swap the shocks if you gave them 2024s but let me know if so. I’m in WA.
How do you like the MT64? Did you add any weight such as armor etc? Thinking about MT64 too
 
How do you like the MT64? Did you add any weight such as armor etc? Thinking about MT64 too
Really like it so far. Only armor is the age skids so far, I’ll probably put a front bumper on eventually and will upgrade the rear springs if I ever get a trailer or put a heavy bumper on the back. I’ve posted all the specs on lift and ground clearance on the MT64 thread if you’re interested. Good lift though, and happy with it. 👍🏼
 
This thread is a bit ironic. THe friend that bought my 2021.5 Range Rover last summer took a ride in the back seat of our LC on the dirt roads up and down the side of the mountain on Saturday in the back seat. He made two very telling compliments.
#1 he was shocked how comfortable the back seats were.
#2. He was VERY impressed with the ride quality up and down the frost heaved, potholed, washboarded dirt roads. He repeated it several times and is seriously thinking about this as a next vehicle when his Q7 dies.
 
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I took my 2026 through some very tight switch backs over rough North Boston costal roads with a full car of my in laws this weekend.

Traffic in Lynn is like a (really shitty) race track.

Every single one of my in laws fell in love with the LC. They told me it was crazy how such a big truck could handle so well. I was pretty impressed as well, this is the first time in 2k miles I've had to drive like it was one of my sports cars.

Team "my suspension doesn't suck, this thread sucks"
 
Trying everything here and cannot stand the busy and unsettled feeling of this suspension. Does anyone else dislike it? The shocks don't dampen well. I am fine with feeling the cracks, but it should not vibrate 3-5 times after every tiny crack in the road. Ive had 3 different rim/tire combos (SL 20, 34" C and 34" E Load) - We have adjusted PSI, no change, in face the E rated tires feel better than the C rated because the C rated oscillated too much and accentuated the problem.


Really really bummed here since we paid nearly 80K for this car.1900 miles. Before you ask, yes I have owned many 4x4 trucks, both stock and modified etc. This suspension feels over


i have been in to Toyota 2x, even swapped tires to stock and comparing a 25 with my 26. I guess the struts are different part numbers in those years - the 2025 drove better than mine. I have been in twice and while the service manager was awesome and he felt what I was talking about - his Service partnerh he escalated to said there is nothing I can do if the shock is not broken or leaking.
I love my 26, I think the ride is great. Prior to this I had a 2012 Tundra, then a 97 Chevy K1500 and then an 88 Bronco. If you're comparing the LC ride to a unibody vehicle it won't match it, nor is it designed to. Compared to other body-on-frame vehicles I've owned the ride is great. My buddy and my bro-in-law have Tacoma's and their ride is noticeably more harsh compared to my LC.

Even on my new, bigger tires.
 
I love my 26, I think the ride is great. Prior to this I had a 2012 Tundra, then a 97 Chevy K1500 and then an 88 Bronco. If you're comparing the LC ride to a unibody vehicle it won't match it, nor is it designed to. Compared to other body-on-frame vehicles I've owned the ride is great. My buddy and my bro-in-law have Tacoma's and their ride is noticeably more harsh compared to my LC.

Even on my new, bigger tires.
Any chance I could get you to look at the mark number on the shocks? It is really easy to do. Just turn the wheel full left and you can see the mark number clearly. It should look something like 48510-60560 or 561 or 591. It would really help to know what the shock number is on a known good ride.
 
I think its more about expectations than a shock number. Folks like this are what result in the vehicles we are stuck with nowadays.. Dull, numb, unengaging etc. Typically they bought this kind of vehicle for the "image" it portrays knowing nominal real things about it. I bought it knowing exactly what it was...and it has exceeded my expectations in almost every way. Damn good looking too.
I hear this stuff and people swear they run tires at placard settings..then you find out they are depending on an antiquated $2.99 pencil gauge that is grossly inadequate or they are setting the pressures in a 30 degree garage but complaining about the ride at 60 degrees.....Just 2 examples ....no sarcasm intended, but I have seen folks without the experience do really non intelligent things at track days ...........
 
I think its more about expectations than a shock number. Folks like this are what result in the vehicles we are stuck with nowadays.. Dull, numb, unengaging etc. Typically they bought this kind of vehicle for the "image" it portrays knowing nominal real things about it. I bought it knowing exactly what it was...and it has exceeded my expectations in almost every way. Damn good looking too.
I hear this stuff and people swear they run tires at placard settings..then you find out they are depending on an antiquated $2.99 pencil gauge that is grossly inadequate or they are setting the pressures in a 30 degree garage but complaining about the ride at 60 degrees.....Just 2 examples ....no sarcasm intended, but I have seen folks without the experience do really non intelligent things at track days ...........
Any chance you could look at the shock number? You have a known good ride and it would be really helpful and will only take a minute or so of your time. The drivers side is the easiest. Crank the wheel to the left and peak in. The mark number is clearly visible.
 
Will see if I have time. You might be surprised how 1 psi less pressure improves ride. I can't understand why a 265/60R20 and a 265/70 R18 take same pressure????!!!! Same width wheel. Taller sidewalls almost always use less pressure. Larger rims almost always use MORE pressure. I thought the 20's on spec were great but it has taken some time to get the 18's dialed in. Alll the 35-40 psi stuff except for the Load E fanboys is laughable. BTW the chalk test is ~ 70 years old....In the 21st century its called a pyrometer.
The 18's Michelin X Ice 3'SL load)at 32 psi rode absolutely fabulous up north today and it was VERY obvious as the temps increased 25 degrees that the ride degraded. That bouncy sensation from all the unsprung weight shows itself more as the pressures increased.
 
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I haven't ridden in our back seat to confirm for you- my usual copilot won't drive (even though she has her license). She is great at providing driving critique and strong suggestions however.

I had Toyo Open Country AT3 EV tires in SL installed in 275/70/18 (currently running them at 35psi) on Tacoma TRD wheels, and while the extra sidewall causes some extra jiggle over the worst road surfaces the ride has improved overall.
I couldn’t find that size on Toyo website. Only saw 265/70/R18 and 275/65/R18. Can you double check if you actually have 275/70? I’m in the US so it could be different.
 
Unfortunately None of the above. Suspension is not modified either. I have owned everything from suspension lifts/spacers, air suspension, Body on frame trucks, old hot rod trucks and jeeps, built out lifted camper vans, luxury sports cars, Jeeps with 37"s floating all over the road etc. None of them felt this weird annoying vibration busyness. Does anyone else's back seats visibly shake in the rear view on paved roads with the sealed cracks in them? I am landing on something being wrong with my suspension, it just doesnt feel "right".
You’ve owned a ton of different set-ups (more than most people), it definitely sounds like something’s wrong with your suspension.
 
1. Either 20s or 18s DO NOT need to be inflated over 33psi anytime
2. Forget E loads and ride. Not gonna improve anything.
3. To be fair, LC does NOT do its best work at low speeds, but get it on my dirt washboarded road at 40+ and everything disappears. Borderline drifting speeds on my snow covered mountainside road. You can't hide its weight and what you are probably experiencing is the massive unsprung weight of the wheels and tires. Damn things are far heavier, both 18s and 20s than the 22 that were on my Range Rover in summer. (275/40R22.) The independent suspension of the RR is not matched at any level.
I have ‘24 LR Defender currently and the Air Suspension is really good. Before that I had Audi SQ7 with Air Suspension Sport and it was better.
 
I couldn’t find that size on Toyo website. Only saw 265/70/R18 and 275/65/R18. Can you double check if you actually have 275/70? I’m in the US so it could be different.


^^ Toyo's US website. Mine are the "EV" version listed in the screen shot below.

275:70:18.png


sidewall detail zoom in.jpeg


^^ This photo is my Land Cruiser, wearing my set of tires. If you open the photo full screen and zoom in, you can read the size on the sidewall in the photo.
 

^^ Toyo's US website. Mine are the "EV" version listed in the screen shot below.

View attachment 63039

View attachment 63040

^^ This photo is my Land Cruiser, wearing my set of tires. If you open the photo full screen and zoom in, you can read the size on the sidewall in the photo.
That’s great thanks! I was looking at the standard AT3 chart didn’t know they had AT3 EV!
 
I have ‘24 LR Defender currently and the Air Suspension is really good. Before that I had Audi SQ7 with Air Suspension Sport and it was better.
Yea, I had a full sized 2021.5 Range Rover Westminster and as awesome as the air suspension was, you DEFINITELY noticed the difference between the 20s and 22's. The 22's NEEDED pressure. or the vehicle wandered in normal suspension mode thus reason my highway go to was Dynamic. 38/44 (no big loads) was my go to on 275/40R22s. The 20s ran DMV2 and even as XL rated they maxed out at 44psi on sidewalls so my cold pressures were usually 37/40 on 255/55R20. BTW, the Westie weighed 400+ lbs less than the LC. THose big 20s on the LC are 60 series and the wheels are much narrower so the 33/33 spec is logical. So for any body out there with ride issues,
1. get a good gauge
2. Set pressure for the actual temp you want performance at. If 50 degrees is the temps you will drive at, set cold pressures at 50.
3. If you want to get rid of the secondary rebound from tires running stiffer than the rebound on the shocks, try 32/32 psi cold. You may be surprised.
 
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That is very peculiar. I was not aware of a strut change between the '25 and '26''s.

My '24 is very responsive for a large body-on-frame truck. I, personally, always drive in Sport Mode and this gives a quasi sporty suspension and steering without any harshness at all.

As we all know, a body-on-frame definitely takes some getting used to, however, I am very pleased with the LC's suspension setup.

Now the suspension on my '22 4Runner Limited is a different story. Absolutely a wobbly mess and instills no confidence on the highway at all. In fact, I always think its borderline dangerous at higher speeds.
My 21 Trd pro was terrifying over 75
 
My 2026 is rough as hell. I keep lowering the PSI cause it feels like the tires are chronically overinflated.. not sure how go fix it. the 2025 GX & LC I test drove didn’t have this issue ¯\(ツ)/¯
 
My 2026 is rough as hell. I keep lowering the PSI cause it feels like the tires are chronically overinflated.. not sure how go fix it. the 2025 GX & LC I test drove didn’t have this issue ¯\(ツ)/¯
Edit: disregard apparently I can’t read
 
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