Drop-in Kill Switch 41.22

Hi, new owner here. Is it possible for those who have installed the wireless version to attach a picture of where the power wire was connected in the passenger or driver side fuse boxes. I can't find a picture of that when looking at the installation pictures by others here. I read the passenger side box is always hot, but the driver's side is not.
Blue Bear had clear answer for you
T3lcfe: provide you 10% discount for entire purchase from 41.22 if you want to save some $ 😜. Here is the code “Thanh”

Happy LC to you and all
 
Hi, new owner here. Is it possible for those who have installed the wireless version to attach a picture of where the power wire was connected in the passenger or driver side fuse boxes. I can't find a picture of that when looking at the installation pictures by others here. I read the passenger side box is always hot, but the driver's side is not.
Welcome to the asylum.
 
Hi, new owner here. Is it possible for those who have installed the wireless version to attach a picture of where the power wire was connected in the passenger or driver side fuse boxes. I can't find a picture of that when looking at the installation pictures by others here. I read the passenger side box is always hot, but the driver's side is not.
Dvr's side box has both........ The "Ground Buss" is an add-on.

Fuse Taps 2.webp
 
This thread inspired me to come up with a DIY version.

Link:
 
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Welcome to the asylum.
Looks like many more members here got 41.22 plug-play kill switch. Please share your experiences.
Use discount code “Thanh” for 10% off entire your purchase.
Besides their awesome/ easy installation “kill switch”, I did love and purchase myself their other products for both my Gwagon and LC. If you are off-roader/ overlanders, I recommend to check them out
• Hitch slider: 41.22 Products - 41.22 Inc.
• Valve Stem app-caps:
 
Looks like many more members here got 41.22 plug-play kill switch. Please share your experiences.
Use discount code “Thanh” for 10% off entire your purchase.
Besides their awesome/ easy installation “kill switch”, I did love and purchase myself their other products for both my Gwagon and LC. If you are off-roader/ overlanders, I recommend to check them out
• Hitch slider: 41.22 Products - 41.22 Inc.
• Valve Stem app-caps:
I got the wireless version. Followed another members install guide that he posted on here. It works AS ADVERTISED, and was very straightforward install. It gave me a lot of confidence during our 2 week road trip to California earlier this month. And thank you for the code, the discount definitely helped 👍
 
I got the wireless version. Followed another members install guide that he posted on here. It works AS ADVERTISED, and was very straightforward install. It gave me a lot of confidence during our 2 week road trip to California earlier this month. And thank you for the code, the discount definitely helped 👍
Great to hear your positive experience

I personally had them in most our family vehicles as additional cheap insurance / peace of mind. Especially, when I park my FE or Gwagon at remote trailheads alone (sometimes only our rig there before couple vehicles shown up in middle of the day) for few hours of hiking.
Kill-switch is new equipment added in on top of car alarm, steering wheel lock, apple tracker ;) Both my favorite rigs above cost me over $100K each that need my love and protection 😜

Guess you guys should show your love to your cool LC
 
I have to get next to the hood to turn it back on, works in the off position anywhere close to the LC, they even replaced it with new one, still the same
 

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I have to get next to the hood to turn it back on, works in the off position anywhere close to the LC, they even replaced it with new one, still the same
I had never used /turned the remote on from distance. Most happens when I get into the vehicle.
Actually, I don’t need it for a reason : if the stupid ones robbed and took my key and jumped into car, he/she may take more time to figure out to turn engine on and run away. However, I do understand someone needs to start engine from distance where they live in extreme weather (too cold or so hot)

Will test it from distance to see what the result
 
I have to get next to the hood to turn it back on, works in the off position anywhere close to the LC, they even replaced it with new one, still the same
I had this same issue which was annoying. On top of that, I suspected it was drawing too much phantom power (I was having dead battery issues), and the unit was sometimes warm to the touch, so I uninstalled it.
 
I had this same issue which was annoying. On top of that, I suspected it was drawing too much phantom power (I was having dead battery issues), and the unit was sometimes warm to the touch, so I uninstalled it.
1/ “unit was sometimes warm to the touch”: you mean the remote control ? It never happened to me. Anyone else ?
2/ Remote control ON may suck some power from battery. I drive the vehicle everyday so never notice about it. However, if LC parked for a week or longer for vacation or so, I usually turn “OFF” the remote control (kill switch in active). Better keeping Kill Switch active for security while no ones home in that time period for security
Other option: choose the kill switch version without remote control

All above is from my own experiences with multiple vehicles in my family equipped with that kill switch
 
I had this same issue which was annoying. On top of that, I suspected it was drawing too much phantom power (I was having dead battery issues), and the unit was sometimes warm to the touch, so I uninstalled it.
If you wire the magic box (relay board) to a "ACCY" power source vs an always "ON" pwr source you won't have that problem. The only draw back is the vehicle will have to be in "Run/ACCY" mode in order to function the relay's remote.

I have mine powered to an "Accy" fuse, but I don't use a 41.22 remote. Sometimes I forget and try and start the LC with the starter relay disengaged......... then quickly remember to pass the RFID chip over the sensor, when nothing happens......LOL
 
I had never used /turned the remote on from distance. Most happens when I get into the vehicle.
Actually, I don’t need it for a reason : if the stupid ones robbed and took my key and jumped into car, he/she may take more time to figure out to turn engine on and run away. However, I do understand someone needs to start engine from distance where they live in extreme weather (too cold or so hot)

Will test it from distance to see what the result
I just did test 4 times to ensure…before I respond here:
Turned ON (inactive the kill switch) from remote control 30 ft away: 100% worked !

How far did you try to turn ON or OFF the kill switch by remote control ? Check the battery of the remote control
 
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I just did test 4 times to ensure…before I respond here:
Turned ON (inactive the kill switch) from remote control 30 ft away: 100% worked !

How far did you try to turn ON or OFF the kill switch by remote control ? Check the battery of the remote control
Had to be near the drivers side front bumper.
 
Had to be near the drivers side front bumper.
Hmm. Mine is perfect. My unit located near fuse box.
Double check/replace the remote battery and location of the unit.
Last, check with manufacturer.
 
Hmm. Mine is perfect. My unit located near fuse box.
Double check/replace the remote battery and location of the unit.
Last, check with manufacturer.
Will check the battery, this would be the 2nd unit I have received for the same reason.
 
Will check the battery, this would be the 2nd unit I have received for the same reason.
Curious. Tested again today from 45 ft away, it still worked 😜
 
As a further question on the remote option, Is anyone really experiencing any power draw issues? I did see that the remote kill switch option draws .03 amps when the kill switch is off - car unable to start, and .30 amps when switch on - car able to start. I also found today a hood lock if anyone is concerned with a thief accessing the kill switch relay under the hood from Z-Lok HoodLock.
 
As a further question on the remote option, Is anyone really experiencing any power draw issues? I did see that the remote kill switch option draws .03 amps when the kill switch is off - car unable to start, and .30 amps when switch on - car able to start. I also found today a hood lock if anyone is concerned with a thief accessing the kill switch relay under the hood from Z-Lok HoodLock.
Concerning the 41.22 kill swith....... there should be zero drawn for the Non-Fob kit. The fob kit should have a drawn on it, if it is wired into one of the "always hot" circuits. but no draw if it's wired into one of the "Accy" circuits.
 
Concerning the 41.22 kill swith....... there should be zero drawn for the Non-Fob kit. The fob kit should have a drawn on it, if it is wired into one of the "always hot" circuits. but no draw if it's wired into one of the "Accy" circuits.
The wireless remote will suck some juice from 12v battery. By BS200, I monitored the battery and I can confirm it.
If I parked my vehicle in garage and wouldn’t drive it for couple days, I will switch to “OFF” position

With the wired version, no juice lost from 12v battery no matter in ON or OFF position

To me , I still prefer wireless version if fuse box is easy to access.
 
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