Man... that looks like a great alternative to an IGLA. If they made the wireless set-up to work with a proximity card/tag that just enabled the relay.. just have the card/tag in the vehicle, no need to switch the remote each time. That would be perfect IMHO.
Drop-in Kill Switch 41.22
- Thread starter t3lcfe
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- #22
Hmm I picked the “wrong” relay ?!
I thought it is the starter relay from the fuse / relay map / diagram…
Somehow it works for me…
Just look up 41.22 website, I found this :
We can replace the starter relay or fuel pump relay by bypass relay / kill switch
I will tested with the relay next to it
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Yup, I removed my ST relay the other day and it did not start up, as expected. And I didn't get any bad lights on the dash either. Im pretty sure you should be replacing the purple ST relay.Hmm I picked the “wrong” relay ?!
I thought it is the starter relay from the fuse / relay map / diagram…
Somehow it works for me…
Just look up 41.22 website, I found this :
We can replace the starter relay or fuel pump relay by bypass relay / kill switch
I will tested with the relay next to it
I will also call out that the if the wireless switch is set to ON, it will consume 0.3-0.5W of power, vs. 0.05W when it's OFF (10x difference). This is what the customer support rep at 4122 told me. So don't forget to turn your switch to OFF when you park to prevent draining your battery. That alone makes me lean towards the wired version.
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- #24
After I tried to swap the 41.22 kill switch bypass relay to the OEM “pink” (ST=starter), it didn’t work well:
Turn on the bypass, start the engine…it works but one time only. After turn off the bypass and turn on again…the engine doesn’t work any more.
It must work ALL THE TIME to be considered it working. With the EFI relay, it works ALL THE TIME!: ON the kill switch remote control, the engine starts normally. OFF the kill switch remote control, the engine can not start
Again, I want to have the experiment which I turned OFF the kill switch remote control and attempted to turn on the engine few times…of course no way the engine can be started….Then I turned ON the kill switch remote control, yeah…engine started again (every single time). However, the check engine light and the rest of Xmas lights shown off
. Learned from pass experience, Just ignore it. Drove to Costco to shop for wife/kids…went home parked in garage few hours…then start engine again. Magically, all Xmas light disappeared . Don’t panic, they will be goneLESSON: do not attempt to turn on engine many time while you OFF the kill switch (remote control in wireless version or toggle switch with wire version)
To me, I recommend the wireless version, because theft cannot locate the toggle switch following the wire from engine bay.
About drain power from battery when it on…No way, whole night ON position…Mỹ battery is still good in the morning (my real life experience). When I park at my work, the remote is OFF to prevent theft
believe or not : I have kill switch and steering wheel lock . Theft can use flatbed truck to steal my rig. If so, they earned it 
That’s it, gang. Now you decide yourselves to add great layer of security or not. Use my code “Thanh” ( not thank) to have 10% off
Happy LC to all!
NOTE: I used my own $ to pay in full for that 41.22 kill switch (NO FREE STUFF). Tested and experimented in my own LCFE. Now you may benefit from it
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Please explain what you mean by placing the killswitch on the ST relay slot. When I remove the ST relay, the engine does not start. When I plug it back in, the engine starts.After I tried to swap the 41.22 kill switch bypass relay to the OEM “pink” (ST=starter), it didn’t work well:
Turn on the bypass, start the engine…it works but one time only. After turn off the bypass and turn on again…the engine doesn’t work any more.
It must work ALL THE TIME to be considered it working. With the EFI relay, it works ALL THE TIME!: ON the kill switch remote control, the engine starts normally. OFF the kill switch remote control, the engine can not start
Again, I want to have the experiment which I turned OFF the kill switch remote control and attempted to turn on the engine few times…of course no way the engine can be started….Then I turned ON the kill switch remote control, yeah…engine started again (every single time). However, the check engine light and the rest of Xmas lights shown off
LESSON: do not attempt to turn on engine many time while you OFF the kill switch (remote control in wireless version or toggle switch with wire version)
To me, I recommend the wireless version, because theft cannot locate the toggle switch following the wire from engine bay.
About drain power from battery when it on…No way, whole night ON position…Mỹ battery is still good in the morning (my real life experience). When I park at my work, the remote is OFF to prevent theft
That’s it, gang. Now you decide yourselves to add great layer of security or not. Use my code “Thanh” ( not thank) to have 10% off
Happy LC to all!
I believe the risk with having the kill switch on the fuel pump relay (EFI) is if it goes to OFF state while driving, you will have issues. Whereas the ST relay isn't necessary for while driving, if I understand correctly.
And regarding the power usage, I'm just giving you the numbers. Leaving the wireless switch on will consume 10x more power than when it's off. If you leave it like that for days or weeks, that would be an issue.
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- Thread starter
- #26
@ of_cruiser
Thanks much for your great inputs
After evaluating many sources and I did try to Final successful solution that I can report/share with our team here:
• Correct: First choice is replace the OEM starter relay (ST/purple color) to avoid fuel pump stops working while driving.
Fuel Pump relay is just 2nd choice.
I did final test/experiment and CONFIRM that it WORKS WELL. It is a bit slow react when switching ON to OFF back and forth but working fine
Team, please see attached photos of my final installation/set up
• I do understand your point about battery drain. It is possible.
So just turn OFF the remote control of kill switch all the time when park the vehicle if people wants
••• Conclusion: 41.22 drop-in kill switch is great investment for the securities (anti-theft) our value LC
41.22 Inc. - Off & On-Road Vehicle Gear | Made in USA
Made-in-USA vehicle anti-theft and recovery gear. The Drop-In Kill Switch immobilizes your vehicle with no wire cutting. Free US shipping over $90.
41twentytwo.com
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- #27
Please see my latest responses. Thanks much for your feedback
Which one to order from their website... For vehicle model they have Land cruiser 200 and they have Land cruiser 300.. they don't have the 250 series
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- #29
When you order the system for your LC, select “Universal T2 type” relay
Attached is my order receipt for your reference.
You can either choose “wired” or “wireless” version.
I bought “wireless” version for my LC
Use 10% discount code for your saving $: “Thanh” ( not “thanks” )
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Thank you for the info/posts on this solution. I am considering getting one. Likely the wireless version.
Any chance you would post up some photos for the wireless fob for the relay, explain how it works? (proximity? button?)
I assume it has a battery- CR2032?
Any chance you would post up some photos for the wireless fob for the relay, explain how it works? (proximity? button?)
I assume it has a battery- CR2032?
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- #31
Check this out. PM me if you need to chat.
Security Layers that your LC can have
Ton of $$$ I invested in, and ultimate love ❤️ 💕 of every heart beat dedicated for my LCFE. To be secure as much as I can practice easily everyday parking my rig at public parking and/or remote trail heads, I added 4 layers of security to my LC and G: 1/ Alarm /security system installed by...
www.landcruiserforum.com
Check this out. PM me if you need to chat.
Security Layers that your LC can have
Ton of $$$ I invested in, and ultimate love ❤️ 💕 of every heart beat dedicated for my LCFE. To be secure as much as I can practice easily everyday parking my rig at public parking and/or remote trail heads, I added 4 layers of security to my LC and G: 1/ Alarm /security system installed by...
Thank you, I read through those. I understand- mostly trying to learn about the remote side of things for the wireless version. If I go that way, I’d like to keep a spare battery around too.
^^ is the remote you have like the one in this video?
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- #34
Yes. I always have plenty of spare batteries that not only for those but also for my main key fobs, L-shape protection
etc.The kit Includes 2 remote control ( key fob ) and you must keep the OEM relay in your LC / vehicle “secret place”. “End of the world” happened ( mean all 2 key fobs died and no spare batteries), you can use the OEM one.
I am type of “super careful” guy so I thought through all those situations
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- #35
Yes. Super damn easy…but ensure to unplug negative/ground cable of rear battery before and after installation.
Our LC computer system is super sensitive ( ask me how I know
)
Yes. I always have plenty of spare batteries that not only for those but also for my main key fobs, L-shape protection
The kit Includes 2 remote control ( key fob ) and you must keep the OEM relay in your LC / vehicle “secret place”. “End of the world” happened ( mean all 2 key fobs died and no spare batteries), you can use the OEM one.
I am type of “super careful” guy so I thought through all those situations
Thank you-
Years ago I had a Compustar 2 way paging alarm complete with starter kill and fuel pump interrupt. It was a very good piece of equipment…until one cold night the battery in my remote died and I was “dead in the water,” unable to start my vehicle.
I had to go on a late night mission on foot to find a new battery for my remote before I could drive home. After that, I stashed Lithium versions of the needed battery in the car should history repeat.
Modern versions of that alarm are now USB chargeable
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- #37
Hint for who orders the wireless version of kill switch:Yes. Super damn easy…but ensure to unplug negative/ground cable of rear battery before and after installation.
Our LC computer system is super sensitive ( ask me how I know
• ON (inactivates kill switch / bypass relay connected ) —-> engine can start
• OFF ( activates kill switch bypass relay disconnected ) —-> engine cannot start = dead
When switch back and forth ON / OFF to test activate and inactivate the kill switch, the key fob/remote control tends to delay a bit.
—-> Right away after a second I switch from OFF to ON, start engine…nothing happened : I though kill switch doesn’t work, then just wait a bit to turn ON…and work
. Just give it couple minutes
No system is foolproof. And, anything that slows down a thief will lessen the likelihood of the car being stolen. Yes, a thief could have the relay and recognize the issue once they get into the vehicle, but they most likely will be looking for a kill switch (which they won't find.) IMHO, this system will deter most thieves and ensure the LC isn't taken.
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- #40
Blue Bear is correct. No system can 100% guarantee theft proof !
In order the “super well-prepared” theft can take my vehicle, “they” must go through 1st five steps below
(see my attached photo)• Break windows to get inside
• Kill my car alarm
• decode / got my key
• Cut steering wheel lock
• Have OEM starter relay (if they found out engine cannot start because of “kill switch”) Most thefts look for the “actual” kill switch in cabin…Commonly, kill switch made by wire-spitting and hide the switch somewhere…
I chose the wireless kill switch version, therefore, no switch for them
get the OEM relay baby Oops…I almost forgot that I had Apple AirTag hidden somewhere in my rig
Hey, $100 ($160 wireless) kill switch…No one can expect 100% vehicle theft proof
To skip all 5 steps to have my rig, theft can use flat-bed tow truck to haul it away My FE + upgrades cost me over $100K, so this $100 “smart” kill switch is no-brainer solution for me
Anyway, if you want to “deter” the theft as I did, use my 10% discount code when you order the system: “Thanh”
Happy Holidays and Happy LC to ALL
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