41.22 Kill Switch Install

[EOD Guy]

For those of you who did the wireless, did they raise the price? Im checking it out and it is listed at almost $180 for the wireless.

Also, for the "wired version," any generic places to put the switch that can be accessed inside the cabin but very unlikely to be seen/suspected by a thief?

Finally in the Toyota drop down options, the only one for the Land Cruiser 250 says "Australian Version". Does anyone know if this version works for us here in the USA?

Something to ponder..... Having worked with these small relays for decades........... The relay in question is an unremarkable light duty relay that was most probably never designed to be "on" for the life of your vehicle. I say that because that relay will eventually burn up, which will require you to obtain an entire new kit to replace the $3 relay. I am curious as to how the FOB's board controls the relay, I'm almost 100% positive I know, but I am not willing to purchase one to satisfy my curiosity. If you obtain one and if you are feeling generous, I would greatly appreciate a picture of the FOB's circuit board and if it just connecting a ground to the relay (which is what I believe is happening).

A post containing my experiments.....

Anti-Theft Relay

Previously I installed a DIY anti-theft device (fuse interrupt) but have always been concerned about “if it failed while I was traveling” While it is completely reversable, It would take some time to remove the bypass I wired in. Recently a member purchased a relay interrupt that is marketed as...

www.landcruiserforum.com

 

[t3lcfe]

For those of you who did the wireless, did they raise the price? Im checking it out and it is listed at almost $180 for the wireless.

Also, for the "wired version," any generic places to put the switch that can be accessed inside the cabin but very unlikely to be seen/suspected by a thief?

Finally in the Toyota drop down options, the only one for the Land Cruiser 250 says "Australian Version". Does anyone know if this version works for us here in the USA?

Use my 10% discount code for your saving $: “Thanh”
Wireless version is the best one to me. I personally had it for my FE. Big up

 

[t3lcfe]

Use my 10% discount code for your saving $: “Thanh”
Wireless version is the best one to me. I personally had it for my FE. Big up

Now I had those “kill switches” in all my 5 family vehicles. This small invest $ (relative to our vehicle value) brings us (my family) huge peace of mind. Check with your auto insurance, you may get discount (similar alarm / tracking system)

 

[MAC25LC]

Question, did everything like you showed, I can use the remote to the OFF position anywhere around the vehicle, but to the ON position I have to be right next to the module.
Don’t understand.

 

[Blue Bear]

Question, did everything like you showed, I can use the remote to the OFF position anywhere around the vehicle, but to the ON position I have to be right next to the module.
Don’t understand.

I have not experienced that issue. Perhaps check with 41.22?

 

[t3lcfe]

Question, did everything like you showed, I can use the remote to the OFF position anywhere around the vehicle, but to the ON position I have to be right next to the module.
Don’t understand.

Should be the same.

 

[OldMan]

Finally in the Toyota drop down options, the only one for the Land Cruiser 250 says "Australian Version". Does anyone know if this version works for us here in the USA?

Australian Version is for diesel engine. They have no petrol Prados. Afaik the diesel use an different sub-version (30050) of the denso 28300 relay . I think, but do not know, for diesel is there unversial type 3.
Maybe some aussie knows better?

 

[EOD Guy]

Question, did everything like you showed, I can use the remote to the OFF position anywhere around the vehicle, but to the ON position I have to be right next to the module.
Don’t understand.

Not to take away from their product......... nor their warranty.

Their approach to the fob controlling the relay is pretty basic. If you find no joy from the company, you can purchase a generic fob-controlled relay board from Amazon for $20 and just replace the control board. I purchased their plain kit (no fob) and a fob relay board from Amazon and successfully controlled their relay etc.......

This is the relay/FOB board I purchased and used in my test.

 

[OldMan]

Yes, as EOD Guy notes, in my opinion you can use your own control unit for the 41.22 hardwired kit; after all, the switch simply toggles the ground connection.

A good, reliable solution is to use an additional alarm system—which seems essential for Toyota vehicles anyway—that features an output capable of automatically switching the ground connection when the system is disarmed. It can then cut the ground connection again when the vehicle is locked and the alarm is armed.

There are excellent modern alarm systems available that integrate into the CAN bus in a contactless, read-only manner, thereby avoiding any warranty issues.

 

[Dano]

I’m really interested in a reasonable cost deterrent to auto theft and this solution on its surface looks good.

However I can’t help but wonder why thieves who come with some tools and are savvy enough to break into vehicles and hijack wiring harnesses and electronics, wouldn’t be well aware of this 41.22 solution and carry a small starter relay in their bag of LC250 tricks. These guys appear to be selectively targeting this vehicle and are pretty adept at its theft. If they do their routine and LC fails to start, it seems like it would take 30 sec for this scum to pop hood and swap the module.

I have little knowledge in such matters. Am I oversimplifying? Are the modules vehicle specific thwarting this maneuver? I realize time is something the crooks don’t want to spend. Is there a hood lock device that could add to the clock? Just trying to think this out before jumping into another mod (this time requiring me to carry another remote).
TIA

 

[D-Train]

I’m really interested in a reasonable cost deterrent to auto theft and this solution on its surface looks good.

However I can’t help but wonder why thieves who come with some tools and are savvy enough to break into vehicles and hijack wiring harnesses and electronics, wouldn’t be well aware of this 41.22 solution and carry a small starter relay in their bag of LC250 tricks. These guys appear to be selectively targeting this vehicle and are pretty adept at its theft. If they do their routine and LC fails to start, it seems like it would take 30 sec for this scum to pop hood and swap the module.

I have little knowledge in such matters. Am I oversimplifying? Are the modules vehicle specific thwarting this maneuver? I realize time is something the crooks don’t want to spend. Is there a hood lock device that could add to the clock? Just trying to think this out before jumping into another mod (this time requiring me to carry another remote).
TIA

Think of it this way.. nothing is 100%. You could put an alarm on, kill switch, club, hood lock, etc.. and they could flat bed it out. You just want to slow them down enough to maybe make them think about moving along due to time/exposure. A hidden kill switch in a not obvious place is very effective. They are adept at the hack that they are using, but outside of that, I doubt they are brining the kitchen sink with them or even have much knowledge how to troubleshoot a non-start outside of that. Once they do their hack, and it doesn't start, they'll assume it's something they did wrong or their equipment is not working.

I can only imagine the UK/EU theft problem will be on its way here at some point, just a matter of time. Especially with the amount of LC's I see out on the road now.

I'm waiting on them to come out with a proximity system for the kill relay (RFID fob/card and/or phone proximity) that they are currently working on. No ETA yet..

 

[EOD Guy]

Think of it this way.. nothing is 100%. You could put an alarm on, kill switch, club, hood lock, etc.. and they could flat bed it out. You just want to slow them down enough to maybe make them think about moving along due to time/exposure. A hidden kill switch in a not obvious place is very effective. They are adept at the hack that they are using, but outside of that, I doubt they are brining the kitchen sink with them or even have much knowledge how to troubleshoot a non-start outside of that. Once they do their hack, and it doesn't start, they'll assume it's something they did wrong or their equipment is not working.

I can only imagine the UK/EU theft problem will be on its way here at some point, just a matter of time. Especially with the amount of LC's I see out on the road now.

I'm waiting on them to come out with a proximity system for the kill relay (RFID fob/card and/or phone proximity) that they are currently working on. No ETA yet..

In my setup, I have two button connected to my DIY 41.22 clone relay. The kill switch is an ordinary push button, energizing a "latching relay" which in turn disconnects the "neg leg of the OEM wiring to the DIY starter relay.

The "Off" switch is connected to a RFID reader which reconnects the "neg leg" etc......... The RFID reader module is hidden in a convenient spot behind a trim panel. My RFID module is powered by the 12v cigar lighter circuit, so normal operation getting in/starting when the system is "ON" if it doesn't start, (I forgot I'd turned it on), I simply hold the FOB over the spot, and listen for the latching relay to function and the LC will engage the starter.

I embedded the RFID chip in super glue to form a disk and slipped that under the FOB's leather cover. Works great

 

[D-Train]

In my setup, I have two button connected to my DIY 41.22 clone relay. The kill switch is an ordinary push button, energizing a "latching relay" which in turn disconnects the "neg leg of the OEM wiring to the DIY starter relay.

The "Off" switch is connected to a RFID reader which reconnects the "neg leg" etc......... The RFID reader module is hidden in a convenient behind a trim panel. My RFID module is powered by the 12v cigar lighter circuit, so normal operation getting in/starting when the system is "ON" if it doesn't start, (I forgot I'd turned it on), I simply hold the FOB over the spot, and listen for the latching relay to function and the LC will engage the starter.

I embedded the RFID chip in super glue to form a disk and slipped that under the FOB's leather cover. Works great

Sounds like a secure setup... I'm waiting on their RFID kit which is in the works. I'm not super worried about theft for me. Almost anywhere my LC is parked, it is secured access. If I parked it on the street overnight, I'd be a bit more concerned.

 

[wpage]

With the sketchy battery reports. Trying to avoid cutting into electric items...

 

[EOD Guy]

With the sketchy battery reports. Trying to avoid cutting into electric items...

No cutting involved, Plug -N - Play. You do have to figure out where you want to mount the switch. Depending how sophisticated you want to go, you don't even need power. For the basic setup, just a simple on/off toggle switch for the Gnd leg of the 41.22 relay.

 

[Dano]

In my setup, I have two button connected to my DIY 41.22 clone relay. The kill switch is an ordinary push button, energizing a "latching relay" which in turn disconnects the "neg leg of the OEM wiring to the DIY starter relay.

The "Off" switch is connected to a RFID reader which reconnects the "neg leg" etc......... The RFID reader module is hidden in a convenient spot behind a trim panel. My RFID module is powered by the 12v cigar lighter circuit, so normal operation getting in/starting when the system is "ON" if it doesn't start, (I forgot I'd turned it on), I simply hold the FOB over the spot, and listen for the latching relay to function and the LC will engage the starter.

I embedded the RFID chip in super glue to form a disk and slipped that under the FOB's leather cover. Works great

If I understand this correctly, you have something of a double-switch set-up and don’t have to carry around an additional remote to trigger. Sounds like a winner winner chicken dinner.

However, you are SpaceX tech/Tony Stark to my RadioShack/Hammer Industries , and I’m likely better waiting for the 41.22 guys to release a plug&play version if that’s in the works.

 

[halaweh]

I ordered the wireless for the Land cruiser 250 26.. I realized the install instruction is for a universal kit.. whats the difference between the universal and the LC kit?

the fuse to be used how many amps? I saw 2x in the fuse tap?

thanks

 

[EOD Guy]

If I understand this correctly, you have something of a double-switch set-up and don’t have to carry around an additional remote to trigger. Sounds like a winner winner chicken dinner.

However, you are SpaceX tech/Tony Stark to my RadioShack/Hammer Industries , and I’m likely better waiting for the 41.22 guys to release a plug&play version if that’s in the works.

Actually it sounds a lot harder than it is......lol. You purchase a el-cheapo cabinet RFID lock from amazon, remove the cover and cut out and discard the motor. Connect those wires to a 5v relay ect......... All the relays and breakout harness are hidden under the Ctr console rear shoe.

 

[t3lcfe]

I ordered the wireless for the Land cruiser 250 26.. I realized the install instruction is for a universal kit.. whats the difference between the universal and the LC kit?

the fuse to be used how many amps? I saw 2x in the fuse tap?

thanks

In past, at the time I ordered and got my 41.22 kill switch, in their website they didn’t have specific option for LC, but universal type. I just selected the type of “bypass relay” per LC “starter relay”
So now, I think they know exactly what type of relay that LC has…then have specific option for customers

I think the installation should be the same with “universal” version(very simple) I had 5 installed in my family’s vehicles
At beginning of this thread, Blue Bear shared his very detailed installation

 

[Blue Bear]

I’m really interested in a reasonable cost deterrent to auto theft and this solution on its surface looks good.

However I can’t help but wonder why thieves who come with some tools and are savvy enough to break into vehicles and hijack wiring harnesses and electronics, wouldn’t be well aware of this 41.22 solution and carry a small starter relay in their bag of LC250 tricks. These guys appear to be selectively targeting this vehicle and are pretty adept at its theft. If they do their routine and LC fails to start, it seems like it would take 30 sec for this scum to pop hood and swap the module.

I have little knowledge in such matters. Am I oversimplifying? Are the modules vehicle specific thwarting this maneuver? I realize time is something the crooks don’t want to spend. Is there a hood lock device that could add to the clock? Just trying to think this out before jumping into another mod (this time requiring me to carry another remote).
TIA

A lot of times vehicles are stolen as crimes of opportunity, not by professional crime rings. According to the Insurance Information Institute, 85% of stolen vehicles are recovered. The 41.22 provides a substantial theft deterrent for that 85%. While no theft deterrent (emphasis on deterrent) provides 100% security, the goal is to provide as much of a barrier to theft as possible without spending a lot of $. The best way to prevent most theft is to keep your car in your locked garage. When that's not possible, the 41.22 provides a reasonable amount of deterrence at a fair cost.