Drop-in Kill Switch 41.22
- Thread starter t3lcfe
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OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #43
Well…save your $ it is Personal choice and keep it yourself
Should not judge with statement “waste $ and time”.Smart enough, give us the better solution
your only 1st 4 messages in this forum are “beautiful” To me, my $100 well spent
and I never use that kind of “judgment” to any different opinions/ choices than mine ( even thought consider myself as a leader of company )Be cool and helpful to community.
Happy LC to all
(I’m just smiling while typing these )
Welcome to the asylum.
No offense, just thinking out loud 
I’ve already decided I’ll put Ghost immobilizer, that should be enough
I’ve already decided I’ll put Ghost immobilizer, that should be enough
Well…save your $ it is Personal choice and keep it yourself
Smart enough, give us the better solution
To me, my $100 well spent
Be cool and helpful to community.
Happy LC to all
(I’m just smiling while typing these )
Wow.. so you think they break in, do a relay attack, or try starting it over the CANBUS thru the OBD port. No start. They scratch their head and shout out.. "IT'S THE NON-OEM STARTER RELAY!!!!"
Let's be a bit more realistic. The likelihood they track it down to a non OEM relay in the fuse box (and happen to have a spare handy or know which relay to switch in the fuse box) after a no start is 0.01%. They are going to believe that something is wrong with their hack/tools/process/ etc... not that there is a stealth kill switch of some sort. Even if they did suspect it, would they really want to spend that amount of time trying to track it down while stealing a car? They don't have that kind of time and will give up and move along to the next vehicle, not worth the exposure for them.
I agree that a ghost immobilizer is a 99% solution (1% that doesn't fix a flat bed tow truck), and the above relay is a close 98.7%.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #47
• Ghost Immobilized = 99% solution cost 1,600 USD. Can it be reversed back to OEM without 800 USD uninstall labor fee ?
• 41.22 Drop-in Kill Switch = 98.7% solution cost 100 USD ( actual switch ) / $160 wireless version ( no switch but 2 key fobs ). It can be reversed back to OEM in second by yourself
+++ All is about to “deter” the vehicle theft…Giving them more works to get my LC”…Then hope they move to other “easier target”
Similarly, steering wheel lock just give theft a sign…and they may think it is stupidly old school so they just have steel cutter or key lock opener…then surprise that I also have kill switch without switch
. If they worked hard, spent a lot of time to prepare, and went through all my “affordable securities” ( alarm, vehicle main key fob, steering wheel lock, then wireless kill switch), so they are “deserved” to have my LC Not that simple, theft baby
Indeed, I am very happy with my kill switch
Cheers and happy LC to all
in my country premium cars like LC are stolen to sell overseas, and that means a complex chain of actions - documents forgery, customs, logistics, etc.
and with all that complexity and effort, these groups must include a skilled thief, who can find an extra wire in a fuse box.
and with all that complexity and effort, these groups must include a skilled thief, who can find an extra wire in a fuse box.
This is assuming they flatbed the LC out... Again, skilled or not, it's a time/exposure issue.. how long does it take them to figure that out while in someone's driveway? If they are a truly professional gang they have set procedures and a time limit. It doesn't work? They don't know if it's a ghost immobilizer, kill switch, out of gas, etc.. etc.. move along to next vehicle, it's wasting their time otherwise, and too risky to try and find out.
You do what you need to do to feel comfortable.... but to say the above kill switch is a waste of money is nonsense.
Fair enough, if you live near a port that gives easy access for shipping to offshore secondary markets, like Toronto or Montreal, then yes you are probably going to have to guard against more sophisticated thieves looking just at late model cars using some sort of shopping list but for those of us who live thousands of miles from the coast the risk is from drug addicts and petty criminals looking to steal and sell to a chop shop or use the vehicle in committing another crime. In fact it's better than 50/50 that your car will be recovered if your not in/near a port though I'm guessing it's also better that 50/50 that it will be trashed when found. Either way you're not talking about particularly patient or methodical individuals but rather the car thief equivalent of a smash and grab. Anything you can do to make your vehicle an iota more challenging to pinch will make it that much more likely that they will move along and look for easier pickings. Even a simple immobilizer and some bright window stickers (for the literate meth heads) will go a long way to accomplishing this. Now if someone could come up with something to run about 10,000 volts through my catalytic converter while parked...
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #51
You hit all main points
I feel like that CC theft here in Colorado is not nearly as bad as it was? Check out the link below..
Catalytic converter thefts plummeted in Denver with new laws, lower prices
New laws and plummeting prices have slashed thefts by 95 percent.
denverite.com
I had a friend who had one stolen in broad daylight out of a Costco lot years back!
What is the best way to get power to this sucker given that the battery is in the way back of the vehicle and I don't want to run power lines all the way through the floor or headliner. is there somewhere in the engine bay that is safe and obvious ... I.e, idiot proof.. to splice into or bolt onto.
I'll be installing mine soon. I'm going to use one of the empty 12 V always on slots in the drivers side fuse box. You'll need to pick up a fuse tap to connect the power side of the 41.22 to an always on slot. We have several empty slots available. I'll probably do an install thread after I install the device.
I have been contemplating where the best place to source power for the relay myself- a video of your efforts would be excellent.
A voltmeter can be used to determine which slots are always "on" and which ones are "on" only when the vehicle is "on". I checked last night and found that several empty slots will meet the need of always "on". I'll post an install thread when I do mine.
Just an update to this.. I did reach out to them to ask about a possible RFID style device instead of a remote or kill switch. They are currently working on a phone app enabled proximity type set-up (phone inside LC would enable start, nothing required from user). They did say that the current set-ups would be upgradable to the newer style once they come out.
No ETA on availability...
No ETA on availability...
Here's a link to Install 41.22 Drop In Kill Switch
Hi, new owner here. Is it possible for those who have installed the wireless version to attach a picture of where the power wire was connected in the passenger or driver side fuse boxes. I can't find a picture of that when looking at the installation pictures by others here. I read the passenger side box is always hot, but the driver's side is not.
