OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #61
EOD Guy is next level on the DIY stuff. Given his explosive background, that's not surprising.
41.22 Kill Switch Install
- Thread starter Blue Bear
- Start date
Yes…EOD Guy is “out of the range”
NO one else can do that kind of his stuffs.
I just rather “invest” a little $ on 41.22 kill switch for my expensive LC for its lifetime.
Just plug /Play and called a day
Exactly. Remember that Thor also says picking up that hammer looks a lot harder than it is.
The TLC is not on the Hot list of stolen vehicles or even trim lists.
Not on the top 10's so pass on the kill.
Like more the old days when you cold run a simple on/of ground to the coil...
Can simple be done today??
Not on the top 10's so pass on the kill.
Like more the old days when you cold run a simple on/of ground to the coil...
Can simple be done today??
True data. But the TLC is #1 by far most stolen in Japan, and is top 5 in Australia and significant target in some parts of Europe. It may be just a matter of time before there is a bump upward in USA based theft.
Looks like Toyota is going "old school" (toyota part# 08051-00020), but I'd prefer the 41.22 solution over this!
That's basically what the 41.22 relay does, except instead of grounding the coil, you are removing the Gnd from the starter relay.
hello, ai ordered the wireless killswitch for the land cruiser 250 and I got in the box 2 relays? do any of you know why they supply 2x not 1.
is there a place to connect directly the power to a terminal instead of connecting it to an empty fuse as suggested in this thread and is there any issue in doing that , I ask because I dont have the female fuse and I need to install the killswitch before a trip urgently
thanks
Attachments
• Relay: use the “Reverse” one for LC
(Universally, There are 2 relays are included: regular and reverse because some vehicles work with regular, but some vehicles work with reverse on)
• Power: you can connect the wires of kill switch directly to jump start post in engine bay ( positive /red wire of the unit to positive post of power on the passenger side. Negative/ground/black wire to any “ground” bolts
(Universally, There are 2 relays are included: regular and reverse because some vehicles work with regular, but some vehicles work with reverse on)
• Power: you can connect the wires of kill switch directly to jump start post in engine bay ( positive /red wire of the unit to positive post of power on the passenger side. Negative/ground/black wire to any “ground” bolts
What t3lcfe said.......
You can cut the ring terminal off the "Red" wire and strip off 1/2" or so of the insulation and wrap that around the blade of a fuse and force it into an empty slot. Stripped wire would form a "U" and the blade of the fuse fit's into the "U".
You can cut the ring terminal off the "Red" wire and strip off 1/2" or so of the insulation and wrap that around the blade of a fuse and force it into an empty slot. Stripped wire would form a "U" and the blade of the fuse fit's into the "U".
thanks EOD for the suggestion but I am too careful to do this.. and I am afraid of lose contact with the road vibration since I drive rough roads almost daily
is there a good install video that I can see how to fish the wire thru the cable bundles that goes across the engine to the the other fuse box terminal on passenger side
what about the heat for the 4122 cables, are they capable of handing all the engine heat if I managed to sneak them inside the cable bundle or next to it
IMO a better way would be to run a 8 or 10 gage wire from the passenger side to the Driver's side and use a circuit breaker and a covered/protected BUSS bar on the driver's side. That way you would have a 12v source on the driver's side for future connections/power needs.
I ran mine across the radiator support and zip tied it to existing wires/cables....... there's plenty of room.
Sometimes the most obvious thing can be a deterrent.
Anyone installed a disguised OE looking cube switch as a 41.22 switch in the left side accessory panel?
Just asking for a friend.
Thinking back on all the LC Forum questions, 1/2 the new owners don’t know what all of these do, much less a thief!
Anyone installed a disguised OE looking cube switch as a 41.22 switch in the left side accessory panel?
Just asking for a friend.
Thinking back on all the LC Forum questions, 1/2 the new owners don’t know what all of these do, much less a thief!
Do you have a link for the website? Do they make a 'blank' switch (i.e. no light or markings)? If it blended in with the other blanks, even more 'hidden in plain sight'. I'm liking this idea!
hi, just to confirm.. there 2x 10A fuses connected to this mini fuze female ? and why 2?
Attachments
Square OEM-Style Push Switches for Toyota | CH4X4
Square push switches for the square factory openings in late-model Toyotas — Tacoma, Tundra, 4Runner, Prado. Laser-etched, LED backlit.
ch4x4.com
Good idea !
I assume the fuse tapp is for the "remote" version of the 41.22 kit.
The two fuses are due to it's a fuse tapp....... 1 fuse is for the original circuit protection and the 2nd fuse is for the "new" circuit protection......... if you didn't have an empty fuse slot and had to use an existing "fused slot" this would be proper.
Since you are able to take advantage of a blank/empty slot, two fuses are needed to make the internal wiring of the fuse tapp, make the connection. There are "fuse extension" pig tails that can be used along with a single inline fuse holder. but that just makes the fuse box cluttered and unnecessarily messy, where as adding an additional fuse keeps everything tidy.
I chose to modify an OEM "purple" relay and put the original "purple" relay into to an empty relay slot for a "just in case scenario". I also didn't want to carry another FOB, so I made a DIY "RFID" circuit and hid the RFID chip under the LC's leather FOB cover. But again I'm weird like that.....LOL.
I now have all the parts to start my install (wireless ver) but I have few questions to be sure
1- I should disconnect the battery (Negative) during the install. If not done what are the possible consequences and impact on the ECU ? asking because I am afraid that disconnecting the battery will reset the ECU and I lose all my settings and also trigger an alarm since I have some special security alarm that also goes on if battery is disconnected.. not a big deal but just checking what could go wrong if not disconnected (the original post says to disconnect and not skip this step)
2- after the install, will there be any dash error messages if the killswitch is OFF and there is an attempt to turn on the ignition, will there be an error and will that Msg goes away when the killswitch is turned ON, if I try to test ON/OFF multiple times to see how it kills the car after the install to confirm all good ?
1- I should disconnect the battery (Negative) during the install. If not done what are the possible consequences and impact on the ECU ? asking because I am afraid that disconnecting the battery will reset the ECU and I lose all my settings and also trigger an alarm since I have some special security alarm that also goes on if battery is disconnected.. not a big deal but just checking what could go wrong if not disconnected (the original post says to disconnect and not skip this step)
2- after the install, will there be any dash error messages if the killswitch is OFF and there is an attempt to turn on the ignition, will there be an error and will that Msg goes away when the killswitch is turned ON, if I try to test ON/OFF multiple times to see how it kills the car after the install to confirm all good ?
I would say it depends on where you plan on connecting to your power source.
If you plan on using the fuse box and a fuse tap........ no need to disconnect the 12v.
If you plan on using the under-hood jumper point, then yes......... because that point is connected to the 350a fusible link and if you are not extremely careful and manage to short that out and blow the fusible link........ it's very, very expensive to replace that cable as the link is NOT a separate item.
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