Complete Sound Deadening Project

fftfk · Jun 7, 2026

Now that I got my gender liner (damn autocorrect) taken care of I moved on to the rear quarter panels. I stripped down the rear trim of the car removing the floor, quarter panels, b and C pillars. There is a lot of components in the quarter panel areas (ac on passenger side and battery/computers on drivers side) so it was tough to fully get access. Removing the battery on driver side and the duct work on passenger gave you a bit of room. I added CLD for deadening as well as fiber mat for absorption to everywhere I could including up into the hollow sections behind the taillights. Pretty happy with how it turned out with a noticeable decrease in wheel noise from the rear of the car. The phone decibel meter only registered a .1 drop but it was raining out with a good amount of surrounding traffic. The lack of rear tire noise was a noticeable improvement.

Next steps are the wheel wells and possibly the hood.

Edit - The rear of the LC trim pieces were noticeably missing a lot of anti-vibration rings. I probably added 30 or so.

If attempting I would pre buy a bunch of the yellow hooks as they break fairly easily when removing trim.

There is a lot of room to treat the floor but I ran into a potential concern with the hybrid battery cable. I decided not to touch anything around the battery to limit the dealership trying to tell me the treatment was responsible if anything does happen before warranty runs out. Here is a thread abthe cable concern -

Hybrid Orange Cable Issue Help Needed

I was removing trim pieces in the rear of my car and noticed the hybrid battery cable looks like the protective orange sheathing is sliding down exposing the cables underneath. Is this normal looking? I tried to find info online and found a video showing something similar in the engine bay...

www.landcruiserforum.com

tacosupreme____ · Jun 9, 2026

Awesome post and great pics! I’m still dragging my feet on this, but I will get on it next.

Got two Tacoma projects to complete ahead of this one… (transmission valve body upgrade & equal length y-pipe)

fftfk · Jun 14, 2026

tacosupreme____ said:
Awesome post and great pics! I’m still dragging my feet on this, but I will get on it next.

Got two Tacoma projects to complete ahead of this one… (transmission valve body upgrade & equal length y-pipe)

View attachment 69416

When you do get to it - I would preorder a bunch of the yellow fasteners as I broke a bunch of them. They used to secure B/C pillar trim.
The good news is they are also used to secure the two battery cover pieces which are the first/easiest to come out so you can transfer the ones from battery covers to the the B/C pillar.

fftfk · Jun 14, 2026

I’d also buy 2 of each of these. I broke one of each. One is from the door sill (easy to get to) and one is from the interior quarter panel - hard to get to.

fftfk · Jun 28, 2026

Alright - did the front fenders this weekend. I used CLD everywhere I could, fibermat over the CLD for absorption, and then used the little rubber o-rings everywhere I could. Very happy with the results so far - from 72.5 avg to 68.1 avg at 75 mph using cruise control. I think I could get a little lower measurement if I could find a stretch of highway with no traffic on it.

While doing this I also took off the front air dams. Leaving those might give a little extra improvement.

overtrail887 · Jul 27, 2026

Has anyone tried putting sound deadening on the sunroof cover?

Jersey Skier · Jul 27, 2026

I posted this question in one of the other Sound Deadening threads but figured I'd ask again here. Has anyone had an issue with the door sensor after sound deadening the front door? I used Kilmat and completely stayed away from the door handle having read posts here. Upon finishing my door handle sensor will not unlock my door when I grab the handle. Additionally this seems to affect the ability to have the mirrors auto fold when locking the doors and it prevents the key fob from starting the car remotely, which didn't work well to begin with.

The sensor on the front of the handle still works to lock all the doors. The auto-fold of the mirrors still works if I set it for folding upon shutting the ignition instead of on locking the doors and the key fob still works to lock, unlock and open the windows. Sensor works fine on the other door that I haven't touched yet.

I've checked every plug so many times to make sure they are fully seated and no wires appear to be pulled out of position that I've just given up for now.

Any suggestions?

tacosupreme____ · Jul 31, 2026

overtrail887 said:
Has anyone tried putting sound deadening on the sunroof cover?

I don’t think you can

Jersey Skier said:
I posted this question in one of the other Sound Deadening threads but figured I'd ask again here. Has anyone had an issue with the door sensor after sound deadening the front door? I used Kilmat and completely stayed away from the door handle having read posts here. Upon finishing my door handle sensor will not unlock my door when I grab the handle. Additionally this seems to affect the ability to have the mirrors auto fold when locking the doors and it prevents the key fob from starting the car remotely, which didn't work well to begin with.

The sensor on the front of the handle still works to lock all the doors. The auto-fold of the mirrors still works if I set it for folding upon shutting the ignition instead of on locking the doors and the key fob still works to lock, unlock and open the windows. Sensor works fine on the other door that I haven't touched yet.

I've checked every plug so many times to make sure they are fully seated and no wires appear to be pulled out of position that I've just given up for now.

Any suggestions?

Watch my videos and see if you have as much clearance around the handle as I did. Also, hook up a scanner and clear all the fault. Mine had a ton of faults in the background after unplugging all the modules:

tacosupreme____ · Jul 31, 2026

I know I’ve said it before but my apologies for the huge time gap in this project!

Having our first kid and working full time has been consuming a lot of my time.

Jersey Skier · Aug 1, 2026

tacosupreme____ said:
Watch my videos and see if you have as much clearance around the handle as I did. Also, hook up a scanner and clear all the fault. Mine had a ton of faults in the background after unplugging all the modules:

I watched your videos and they were super helpful for the project. I knew not to add anything up around the handle and stayed well away from it. I did the other 3 doors yesterday and had zero issues. The passenger door's handle sensors still work as they should. I used Carista to check and clear any codes numerous times when working on the driver's door. No codes were thrown when doing the remaining doors as I made sure to disconnect the battery first.

The fact that the key fob still works and the touch sensor to lock still works keeps me thinking that it must be an issue with a wire for the touch sensor that unlocks. Visual inspection of all the pins and plugs have gotten me nowhere as every one looks good. What I haven't done is unplug the actual connection at the handle. I avoided it since I really never went near that when installing the sound deadening. Maybe I should check that too. I'm trying to avoid bringing this to the dealer to figure out. I'm not sure if Toyota Techstream can show exactly what the issue is or whether I'd need to pay for hours of labor form them to hunt down the issue.

ultane · Aug 1, 2026

tacosupreme____ said:
I know I’ve said it before but my apologies for the huge time gap in this project!

Having our first kid and working full time has been consuming a lot of my time.

Congratulations!

Jersey Skier · Aug 3, 2026

Jersey Skier said:
I posted this question in one of the other Sound Deadening threads but figured I'd ask again here. Has anyone had an issue with the door sensor after sound deadening the front door? I used Kilmat and completely stayed away from the door handle having read posts here. Upon finishing my door handle sensor will not unlock my door when I grab the handle. Additionally this seems to affect the ability to have the mirrors auto fold when locking the doors and it prevents the key fob from starting the car remotely, which didn't work well to begin with.

The sensor on the front of the handle still works to lock all the doors. The auto-fold of the mirrors still works if I set it for folding upon shutting the ignition instead of on locking the doors and the key fob still works to lock, unlock and open the windows. Sensor works fine on the other door that I haven't touched yet.

I've checked every plug so many times to make sure they are fully seated and no wires appear to be pulled out of position that I've just given up for now.

Any suggestions?

I just want to post a follow up to this in case anyone else has the same issue and finds this thread like I did.

Despite my numerous visual inspections of all the plugs and pins , AI said that even if they look perfect, if the pin moved .5mm it might no longer make contact as it should. So I ripped apart the door one last time today with a jewelers needle nose pliers in hand and physically pushed the wires back in the direction they belong. I saw zero movement but it made the difference and everything is working again. Poor design that gives me pause as I could see this getting knocked loose just from slamming the door. On the bright side I can now totally remove the door panel and all its clips in under 5 minutes.