Same thing happened to me, and I had my oil catch pan strategically placed to prevent that. Oil all over the RF Michelin. SMH.
Anyone done oil change on LC/LC without using ramps?
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Yea.. kinda like having air tools. Lots of noise. But the newer electric hand tools are much quieter.
Thanks again! And also thanks for the reminder to use a torque wrench at 90 degrees, lest the resulting torque be greater than set on the torque wrench. Still mulling this over, but it sounds logical.
Ditto, my "calibrated arm", including lug nuts, but considering "going by the book" in the future. I cringe watching professional mechanics and their impact tools, for sake of speed, not accuracy.
I bought an oil extractor years ago since my wife owns a LandRover where the oil change is done from up top of the bay:
OEMTOOLS 24397
I use it for the Landcruiser (and my kids cars) and it works well. Still need to crawl under and swap out the filter but less of mess to deal with.
OEMTOOLS 24397
I use it for the Landcruiser (and my kids cars) and it works well. Still need to crawl under and swap out the filter but less of mess to deal with.
Have you ever verified how much of the oil is extracted by pulling the drain plug afterwards? Sure, even with a conventional oil change, some oil always remains in the engine, but just curious.
Good question.. Yes I have checked and I get maybe a bit less than 2oz coming out of the drain plug after using the extractor. Mind you, I've only done one oil change on the LC and a 2nd one coming up soon. I might have to push/wiggle the hose a bit further down this next go around. But even what was left over wasn't a cause for concern.
Appreciate this, as I do have a fancy oil extractor, used for other purposes, but now will consider putting it to use on our vehicles. Now, if only Toyota would mount the oil filter topside, as some other manufacturers do.
I was thinking the exact same thing about the oil filter. BUT this, alone, doesn't negate the need to crawl under our rigs as the drive shaft still requires greasing.. Which is a good thing but just another maintenance item to consider
Do you grease the U-joint zerk fittings, and possibly the slip collars, every oil change? I did on our departed '05 4Runner, possibly overkill, but there was ZERO play when we sold it. The front driveshaft was a PAIN to access!
I will be greasing the zerks first time on next oil change and will do so every oil change as peace of mind.. I follow this on my other machines where required. I haven't read anything regarding slip collars though..
The skid plates are the most difficult part and as such I fabricated a small stand with wheels to support the skid plates, I lower the skid plate on the table, pull the table out and then I have plenty of room to reach the oil drain plug and oil filter.
Even without the stand, it is doable, the only difficulty being that the skid plates are bit cumbersome.
For reference, I am 5'10" and roughly 150.
Even without the stand, it is doable, the only difficulty being that the skid plates are bit cumbersome.
For reference, I am 5'10" and roughly 150.
It would be nice if Toyota would have, at least, put a access door of some sort to the filter and plug to avoid having to drop the plates
Just did my 1,000 mile oil change today. No risers. It was tight, but I managed. Like others said, hardest part was the front skid plate.
For reference, I'm 6'2", 210 lbs
For reference, I'm 6'2", 210 lbs
Due to a lacking service department at my local dealer, I used to do all the service on my BMW motorcycles. It took me longer to do than a real mechanic, but in the end, I knew that everything was perfect, thanks to two DVD’s I bought to explain the processes. One by BMW, another by a retired Air Force instructor, who was a legend for us BMW riders. But, I finally let a local guy (who’s wife was in the same profession as I used to be) who had twenty years experience at a California BMW shop start doing it.
One time, I was paying him to replace the front a rear tires, that I had been doing up until that point (Getting old is a beotch). I watched him tighten the four bolts that held the calipers to the front forks. I stopped him and asked him why he wasn’t using a torque wrench. He told me he has enough experience to know how tight to tighten the bolts.. SMDH.
Two years later, I was forced to do my own tire changes, while in a rural Tennessee location. When I took out the four bolts holding on the front calipers, I was shocked..
The bolt on the left was the one that the ‘BMW mechanic’ with 20 years of experience at a prominent California shop, over tightened, putting my life at risk. All four of the caliper bolts were equally stretched. Prior to him, I was the only person to put a wrench to those caliper bolts, and all four of them were properly tightened using a torque wrench (which is still in spec today). The bolt on the right is the brand new bolt (one of four) that I ordered to replace the ruined bolts.
@EOD Guy,.. You have an $80,000 truck. Please don’t cheap out on some basic tools. You will probably need three, to acurately bracket all of the needed torque values.
Your truck deserves better.
Rant off.
Sorry, I get carried away sometimes.. (Just wait until I post about Miss Daisy’s first Toyota service while on vacation last month. I am still fuming about it.)
I used to do that until recently. The ramps just make it so much easier/faster. What’s $50 in the big picture of maintaining an $80,000 truck?..
Thanks for the advice and IF the drain plug was securing anything else, I'd use a torque wrench (I have many) but the bottom line is the drain plug is crushing a fiber washer....... I'm good.
It is always good to get underneath our trucks to inspect other things. While doing an oil change.
