Oil Change Intervals & Oil Brands

BlueLC250

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2025 Land Cruiser
So i am new to the Land Cruiser (coming from a 3rd gen. Tacoma). I see there's lots of discussion on the oil change intervals for these LC 250s. I recently purchased my 2025 LC 250 with roughly around 4000 miles on it (was a lease vehicle). I found that they did change the oil at 3777 miles assuming this was the first change since there was no other previous record of an oil change. I've read others doing their oil changes at 1000miles, then 5000miles, and then every 5000miles thereafter. When do you guys recommend doing the next oil change? should i still do it at 5000miles or should split it between 5000-10,000miles (7500miles)?

And what brand oil do you lean towards using?

My LC 250 will be used mainly for commuting back and forth to work mostly highway some city and maybe do some off-roading with it.
 
I would change at 5000 still, so I know the type of oil in it and to know the filter is actually new, then every 5k after that.
Any quality oil with the right specs should be fine. I use Valvoline.
 
So i am new to the Land Cruiser (coming from a 3rd gen. Tacoma). I see there's lots of discussion on the oil change intervals for these LC 250s. I recently purchased my 2025 LC 250 with roughly around 4000 miles on it (was a lease vehicle). I found that they did change the oil at 3777 miles assuming this was the first change since there was no other previous record of an oil change. I've read others doing their oil changes at 1000miles, then 5000miles, and then every 5000miles thereafter. When do you guys recommend doing the next oil change? should i still do it at 5000miles or should split it between 5000-10,000miles (7500miles)?

And what brand oil do you lean towards using?

My LC 250 will be used mainly for commuting back and forth to work mostly highway some city and maybe do some off-roading with it.
Toyota genuine motor oil 0w20: $6/ quart
Mobile 1 Advanced Fuel Economy (15k mi protection guaranteed): $6.40/quart ($32/5 quarts)
Toyota genuine oil filter: $5

With DIY oil change addiction, I do those often between 4-5k mi😜
 
Welcome!
Best bet is what mtn40 said (and use full synthetic motor oil). I stick with toyota brand 0w20 for various reasons.
 
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I stopped drinking the Koolaid and will permanently switch to 0W?5W-30 like the rest of the world has in their recommendations. I will give up .1mpg....and don't believe the bullshit about tolerances either...like an Aussie or Middle east motor is a different tolerance...food for thought. Seems I am not alone out there these days.......... If they only chanded oil at 3700 miles, dump it again pretty soon. Every tech out there agrees on the new vehicle change being the RIGHT thing to do....make your call . If you only plan to keep it under 100K miles, non issue, if its a long term keeper, what you do early definitely affects the future longevity. I brought the drama to you so you don't have to hunt hehe.
You really want to learn about lubrication, learn about HTHS,, Far more important than any weight or brand BS......
 
100 percent agree with @Mtn40.

I change every 5k and determine that by even 5k increments on the odometer reading, regardless if I go a little over or a little under the actual miles. No math involved. I use Toyota oil and filters as I have found that there are often online sales from various Toyota dealers for 20 percent off etc........ and sometimes my local dealer will match the price of on line etc........ I normally buy 10 filters at a time (local dealer has the best price) and 2-4 cases of oil at a time (depending on the online discount)
 
Blue - You’re in a great situation. I would not have been surprised to see the first OLF @ 10K or more, especially on a lease. Lots of sheep folks follow that schedule. Go search the forum on oil changes - you’ll have many days of entertainment. Did you buy used from a Toyota dealer & get a certified pre owned certification with 7yr/100K powertrain? Thats a good deal. My neighbor just bought a nice used 2024 Tundra 1794 this weekend & got a CPO @43K miles. If no CPO, you still got a good one w/ the prior lease customer actually doing preventive maintenance.

My interval is 3-4K miles w/ Toyota-spec Mobil 1 5W-30 & Yota filter.
Congrats on the new rig!
 
Changing at 4k miles unless my Blackstone Report comes back in Tip-Top shape, then i'll bump it to 5k (sample en-route)

Team Jim Jones Here
  • Toyota 0w20 with all that presciouse molybdenum @ around 800 PPM.
    • molybdenum creates a microscopic sacrificial layer between wear metals, great for creating film protection layer between metals during start and stop functions of a hybrid system, also great film protection in turbo internals
    • *fun fact, most J250s sold internationally dont have the gasoline/turbo/hybrid system Variants like the NA market, hence the reason for not specifying 0-w20 in overseas engines
  • Toyota Filter of course 😎
 
Welcome to the asylum.

The Motor Oil Geek did a video recently where his conclusion was that it is not the motor oil going out of spec that ruins engines. It is instead particulates too small to be filtered, by any filter. I don’t know if he is correct.

My purchasing dealer didn’t/doesn’t stock Toyota Branded (made by Mobile 1) motor oil, but offered to sell me Mobile 1 for $3.50/qt. more that I could buy it from Costco. So I have been using Mobile 1 0W-20, more recently Mobile 1 Hybrid formulation 0W-20. Now that I know that Toyota Oil has the high levels of Molybdenum, I will switch to that.

Personally, I would get on a 5,000 mile schedule and stick to that, or even less according to The Car Car Nut. Dilution is the solution to pollution (particles).
 
So to outthink Toyota engineers? We are talking new full synthetic lubs...
Not thinking the old dinosaur oils abuses by our forerunners...
Do you believe there was no testing the recos...
 
So to outthink Toyota engineers? We are talking new full synthetic lubs...
Not thinking the old dinosaur oils abuses by our forerunners...
Do you believe there was no testing the recos...
Yes, this topic needs to be debated continuously and in new threads in order for the forum to be commercially viable and survive.
 
So to outthink Toyota engineers? We are talking new full synthetic lubs...
Not thinking the old dinosaur oils abuses by our forerunners...
Do you believe there was no testing the recos...
Speaking for myself, yes. More frequent oil changes are cheap and easy, with almost exclusively upside over downside.

Also, I don’t believe that Toyota’s specification are unfiltered opinion of their engineers. I’m sure many of their engineers would give different recommendations over a beer.
 
IMO, extended oil change recommendations are not made to save the consumer money. They are probably (IDK) right on the ragged edge of acceptability/tolerances, but still not false advertising. Said car company sold millions of vehicles over the years, why, because they were reliable and never wore out.............. Change of mindset at Corp may have been along the lines of....... how many more could we have sold if they wore out after "X" years.

Just say'in
 
I would change at 5000 still, so I know the type of oil in it and to know the filter is actually new, then every 5k after that.
Any quality oil with the right specs should be fine. I use Valvoline.
@Mtn40 So I did the oil change today, roughly 4700 miles. I know it calls for 5.9 quarts, but have you experienced putting a tad more in? i noticed after putting in 6 quarts and running it for a bit, i rechecked the dipstick and saw it was about halfway between the 2 dots (check the oil level on a level surface). i put a tad more in which brought it up closer to the full dot.
 
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@Mtn40 So I did the oil change today, roughly 4700 miles. I know it calls for 5.9 quarts, but have you experienced putting a tad more in? i noticed after putting in 6 quarts and running it for a bit, i rechecked the dipstick and saw it was about halfway between the 2 dots (check the oil level on a level surface). i put a tad more in which brought it up closer to the full dot.
I try to get it about 3/4 of the way from the low dot to the full dot.
I have a note on my garage ref sheet that says 5.75 next to the 5.9qt spec.

I think I’ve put 5.5 qts in initially and then fine tune for a bit after.
I’d rather have it close to the lower level than overfilled and it’s always easier to add than remove too much.

I did just realize my non-level (side to side) garage might be affecting the level a bit. I’ll have to test that out, but I’m not worried about it being a problem.
 
I try to get it about 3/4 of the way from the low dot to the full dot.
I have a note on my garage ref sheet that says 5.75 next to the 5.9qt spec.

I think I’ve put 5.5 qts in initially and then fine tune for a bit after.
I’d rather have it close to the lower level than overfilled and it’s always easier to add than remove too much.

I did just realize my non-level (side to side) garage might be affecting the level a bit. I’ll have to test that out, but I’m not worried about it being a problem.
@Mtn40 i justed check again this morning, it’s sitting between 3/4 and 1/2 way between the full dot and lower dot. I'd say i put in about 6.2 quarts. I intially put in 5.5 quarts as well and the level was right above the low dot. so i added the rest of the .5 quarts which brought the level about mid way between the dots. i then added about .2quarts more which seems like it putting me around the 1/2-3/4 way between both dots.

Know anyone else who's experienced this?
 
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Like Mtn40 said - LC to be on flat ground if you’re being that precise.

Is there a chance dip stick is not going in all the way to the detent? The DS is a friction fit, & obviously you fish it down the DS tube & gets firm, & then might have to be pushed a bit beyond to seat correctly. Might look @ the DS handle end where it touches the DS tube & make sure it’s still round. Or could be nothing.

Just spit balling.
 
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And here is my Black Stone report
With 3927 on the oil
Blackstone said 6k is a recommended interval. I’ll be keeping my changes @4-4.5 k

The interesting thing to me is the molybdenum PPM @71
if Toyota 0-w20 is 8-900 ppm the molybdenum is getting consumed or is not as stated
 

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So months of research on this topic has been done. A few of my takeways.
1. 0W-20 regardless of brand is being used for CAFE requirements only. I call BS on tolerances because different markets don't have identical motors with different tolerance.
2. HTHS of any 20 variant oil is inferior to a 30 oil. HTHS is what causes the oil to break down BEFORE 10K with 20 weights as was shown very nicely by analysis on this forum. It seems this breakdown typically occurs in the 6-7000 mile zone predictably.
3. If you run 20 weight oil, your 5000K change interval is probably just about right. Any sooner, just plain overkill with zero benefits because the oil is still 99% doing its job.
4. Upping to a 30 weight oil, take your pick of 0W or 5W based on climate, garaged v outdoors etc has NO downside. It is still the world standard. It has superior HTHS 3.0-35. v ~2.5-2.7 with 20 weights.
Upping to 30 weight oil makes its very safe to extend oil change interval to at least 7500 miles and data suggests 10K is fine as well..
5. Many higher mileage oil filters actually filter less thoroughly than 5000-7500 mile filters. They last longer because they take longer to plug up. Watch MOGs video on filters.

So the irony the entire industry has f'd themselves over with is 2 fold. Thinner oils with lower HTHS die sooner, yet they extended all the change intervals. Pretty fn stupid!!!


Personal plan
Because I did a road trip (easy cruising on LC when new as I was coming up to speed on these issues), 1st oil change was at 1325 miles. Won't mention oil/filter used....doesn't matter here--> but it was 0W-20. Analysis typical for new.
2nd change at 4142miles (same oil and filter) Hadn't learned about leaving filter yet for finer filtration) so 2817 miles on it. Did not analyze it.
Dropping out the last 0W-20 change today . 7700 miles so 3558 on it. Using NAPA 5W-30. and a TL14476. Will analyze 1st change. Oil only had ~3600 miles on it so I listened before and after. Yes, new oil always sounds better but a good part of the agrarian sound is now gone. Idles very smooth now, less cams and taps. She goes back to Maine Monday with ideal conditions so I fully expect 21-22mpg. We will see.




Calokie, Blackstone seems to think you are fine at 6k intervals. They are always conservative. Notice my above statements about breakdown at 6-7k. Supports my points well. Your shorter cycle insistence has no validity and is without justification beyond you like changing oil all the time....at your rate of oil changes, you will be able to buy a new motor someday...At least, go 5K miles....better still, see the light , switch to 5W-30 and run 7500 miles with a far greater level of protection and interval safety factor. My gut tells me when Blackstone gets my first 5W-30 report, they will say the 10K interval is perfectly acceptable...with the superior HTHS oil choice!
 
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I’m really interested to learn more about your research, because these findings are interesting. If you can share some of your methodology it might shed light on the confusing findings.

The market observation I'll grant you. "different markets don't have identical motors with different tolerance" is a fair point, and the same engine getting 0W-20 here and 5W-30 in Europe or Australia hasn’t been well explained anywhere that I’ve seen. That's an argument about why the recommendation differs. It isn't yet an argument about what the oil is doing in the sump. So:

You wrote "HTHS is what causes the oil to break down BEFORE 10K." Can you walk me through that mechanism, and how you measured it? HTHS is a viscosity measurement taken at 150°C at a shear rate of one million reciprocal seconds. It's a number that describes the oil, the way a torque spec describes a bolt. What's the pathway you observed by which a measurement (HTHS) causes degradation? Oxidation, nitration, fuel dilution, TBN depletion, and permanent VII shear are processes. Which process are you actually pointing at when you state HTHS causes the oil to breakdown early?

Related: you list "~2.5-2.7 with 20 weights." SAE J300 sets the HTHS minimum for the SAE 20 grade at 2.6 and for SAE 30 at 2.9. A licensed xW-20 at 2.5 doesn't exist. Where did your 2.5 come from?

On "this breakdown typically occurs in the 6-7000 mile zone predictably," and "as was shown very nicely by analysis on this forum": how many samples, across how many engine families? And the one that matters more, what did the 30-weight UOAs from those same engines, same mileage, same driving pattern show? And more importantly, as asked above, what exactly did you observe break down? Without that comparison I don't see what the 6-7000 number is measured against.

"the oil is still 99% doing its job." 99 percent of what, and how did you measure it?

On the interval: you say moving to a 30 makes it "very safe to extend oil change interval to at least 7500 miles." What does the 30-weight have more of? Same detergent, same antioxidant package, same starting TBN, same dilution rate in the same engine. If viscosity grade sets the safe interval, what's the mechanism your research uncovered?

"has NO downside." What did you measure to establish that? Did fuel economy delta, cam phaser response time, and oil temperature all get measured as a part of your research? Phasers, chain tensioners, and AFM/DoD lifters are hydraulically actuated and calibrated around a viscosity, so I assume they were all carefully considered in your research.

"It is still the world standard." Japan is on 0W-16 and 0W-8 factory fill. Which standard are you talking about?

The filter point I think is well-proven, at least for cellulose media.
 
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