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Go with the plastic ramps, the steel ones are a pita, plus you typically cant store them standing on end like you can with the plastic ones.I may have to go the ramp route to get an extra couple inches. Not sure why they almost seem to put the crush washer on with some sort of sealer. I popped it off with a screw driver and then took some scotch brite to it to get the sealer material off. I installed a magnetic drain plug and crush washer.
I found that contorting myself and looking down the side of the skid plate allowed me to align the hangers helped get it back on but I’m getting that FE skid plate I think.
You won’t regret spending money on them, and the AutoZone ramps.I’m getting that FE skid plate I think.
I've done my own oil changes with, and without ramps. I used ramps on my 15k oil change because I needed a little extra room to make the service a little less painful from a recent surgery. I noticed one minor downside to the ramps. The front was now at an angle instead of flat. When I removed the oil filter some of the oil ran back and into the plastic cover. Not a huge deal, but it made a bit of a mess and added an extra step removing the plastic cover for clean up. I'll be doing oil changes without ramps moving forward.
I used plastic Harbor Freight ramps (SKU 63956) that I already had on hand for changing oil on the wife's Honda. Got them on sale and they work great.
Yea, I've notice that as well. I don't think it really matters, since we are still getting almost all of the oil out, and replacing it with new oil. But I HAVE been considering a second set of identical (AutoZone) ramps for the rear wheels, moving forward.I noticed one minor downside to the ramps. The front was now at an angle instead of flat. When I removed the oil filter some of the oil ran back and into the plastic cover.
I used plastic Harbor Freight ramps (SKU 63956) that I already had on hand for changing oil on the wife's Honda. Got them on sale and they work great.