41.22 Kill Switch Install

[Blue Bear]

+1 for the easy install of the 41.22 kill switch. I got the remote version and it works well. I found that when turning off with remote, the starter switch immediately clicks off. However, there is about a minute delay when turning back on. Not sure why. I used a 5 amp fuse in the fuse tap. Will call the company this week to inquire about the delay switch on. I can live with it, but would prefer a faster turn-on response time.

I have not noticed any delay when turning on. However - this is important - if you forget to turn on the starter relay, you will flood the engine because the LC doesn't realize the starter isn't working. If that happens, it may take a little bit (less than a minute?) before the engine will start once you turn the starter relay back to the one switch. At least, that's what 41.22 told me when I asked them about not being able to immediately start the engine after either forgetting to turn the relay on (duh!) or hitting "off" instead of "on" (doh!).

 

[JASlandcruiser]

Thanks @t3lcfe and @Blue Bear. Just like you said, I turned system off, left alone for a while (20 min) and went back, turned system on, and it started right up. No delay! Love the 41.22 remote kill switch system!

 

[t3lcfe]

Thanks @t3lcfe and @Blue Bear. Just like you said, I turned system off, left alone for a while (20 min) and went back, turned system on, and it started right up. No delay! Love the 41.22 remote kill switch system!

That’s correct.
I like the product and had them in my both LC and G

 

[NB Rob]

thank you @Blue Bear for the great photos and writeup!
Thank you @t3lcfe for the 10% code -- I just used it.

I live by most accounts 'where door locks aren't needed' in the whillywhacks of eastern Canada. Organized crime vehicle thefts are rampant in Canada (especially this particular toyota), and I live on a rural highway outside of a port city. This will be a nice layer of defense.

Awesome thread. Thanks again!

 

[t3lcfe]

I believe that it will serve you well. Many of us including myself found this drop-in kill switch (especially, the wireless version) is very helpful
Happy LC to you and All my gang out there

 

[amzazai]

I need your help.
I just installed the kill switch 2 days ago. Everything went smooth and the kill switch worked as expected.
Today, my curious mind, very studied of me, to press the off button on the kill switch while the vehicle was running in park. I felt the engine slightly hesitated, but kept running.
With in few seconds, the check engine light, system malfunction, and visit dealership lights came on.
I turned off the engine, locked the doors, and came back after an hour. The car turned on, but the check engine light is still there.
The car drives normally, engine start and stop works too.
If you have any suggestions, then please let me know. I’ll probably have to uninstall the kill switch before I visit the dealership.

 

[Blue Bear]

I need your help.
I just installed the kill switch 2 days ago. Everything went smooth and the kill switch worked as expected.
Today, my curious mind, very studied of me, to press the off button on the kill switch while the vehicle was running in park. I felt the engine slightly hesitated, but kept running.
With in few seconds, the check engine light, system malfunction, and visit dealership lights came on.
I turned off the engine, locked the doors, and came back after an hour. The car turned on, but the check engine light is still there.
The car drives normally, engine start and stop works too.
If you have any suggestions, then please let me know. I’ll probably have to uninstall the kill switch before I visit the dealership.

I'd send an email to 41.22 and ask them for some help. They seem pretty knowledgeable about how the switch interacts with the Toyota ECM. This is similar to what happened to @t3lcfe when he removed the starter relay without disconnecting the battery; maybe send him a DM and ask for some help, too.

 

[t3lcfe]

I'd send an email to 41.22 and ask them for some help. They seem pretty knowledgeable about how the switch interacts with the Toyota ECM. This is similar to what happened to @t3lcfe when he removed the starter relay without disconnecting the battery; maybe send him a DM and ask for some help, too.

Amzazai, I Just responded to your PM. Hope it is clear and helpful to you …

 

[amzazai]

Amzazai, I Just responded to your PM. Hope it is clear and helpful to you …

Great news! The check engine light is off.

Thanks so much for your help and for getting back to me about my question @t3lcfe @Blue Bear . At first, we thought I might have accidentally taken out the fuel relay, but after double-checking, I realized I had actually removed the starter relay.

Last night, I took out the negative cable and a black connecting wire from the battery for a few hours. After I put the wires back on, the check engine lights disappeared.

Since then, I’ve driven the car for about 20 miles, and everything seems fine. I’m really hoping I don’t see the check engine light again, but if it does, I’m planning to take out the kill switch and head to the dealership.

Also, I’m still waiting for 41.22 to reply to my email about why this happened and how to avoid it in the future, and I’ll keep you in the loop.

P.s. I got two kill switch Bluetooth keys, and I’ve noticed that one of them doesn’t turn ON.

 

[t3lcfe]

Great news! The check engine light is off.

Thanks so much for your help and for getting back to me about my question @t3lcfe @Blue Bear . At first, we thought I might have accidentally taken out the fuel relay, but after double-checking, I realized I had actually removed the starter relay.

Last night, I took out the negative cable and a black connecting wire from the battery for a few hours. After I put the wires back on, the check engine lights disappeared.

Since then, I’ve driven the car for about 20 miles, and everything seems fine. I’m really hoping I don’t see the check engine light again, but if it does, I’m planning to take out the kill switch and head to the dealership.

Also, I’m still waiting for 41.22 to reply to my email about why this happened and how to avoid it in the future, and I’ll keep you in the loop.

P.s. I got two kill switch Bluetooth keys, and I’ve noticed that one of them doesn’t turn ON.

If you check / replace battery of kill switch Bluetooth key, and it still doesn’t work, email the factory for the solution ( replacement)

 

[amzazai]

I’m having some issues, guys…

Ever since my last check engine light issue—which was resolved by unplugging the battery terminal for a few hours—I’ve been dealing with another problem.

This morning, when I started the car (started rough), I noticed that while switching from Park to neutral it idled rough, almost like it was going to stall. I drove for about 45 minutes and everything seemed fine, but when I parked and shifted into reverse, the car stalled.

There are no engine lights on, and I’m not sure if this could be related to the cold weather (it’s about 6°F).

I’m thinking it might be my 12V battery starting to die, especially since I’ve heard the kill switch could be drawing power. I also noticed that my Vantrue N4 Pro dashcam isn’t recording after the car is turned off. It’s plugged into the OBDII port for continuous recording until the voltage drops below a certain level to protect the 12V battery, so that seems suspicious.

I’m probably overthinking it, but Toyota might not be able to confirm anything since there’s no check engine light.

 

[of_cruiser]

I’m having some issues, guys…

Ever since my last check engine light issue—which was resolved by unplugging the battery terminal for a few hours—I’ve been dealing with another problem.

This morning, when I started the car (started rough), I noticed that while switching from Park to neutral it idled rough, almost like it was going to stall. I drove for about 45 minutes and everything seemed fine, but when I parked and shifted into reverse, the car stalled.

There are no engine lights on, and I’m not sure if this could be related to the cold weather (it’s about 6°F).

I’m thinking it might be my 12V battery starting to die, especially since I’ve heard the kill switch could be drawing power. I also noticed that my Vantrue N4 Pro dashcam isn’t recording after the car is turned off. It’s plugged into the OBDII port for continuous recording until the voltage drops below a certain level to protect the 12V battery, so that seems suspicious.

I’m probably overthinking it, but Toyota might not be able to confirm anything since there’s no check engine light.

Are you leaving the wireless kill switch in the ON state when the car is off? I was told that with these wireless kill switches, staying in the ON state draws more power than in the OFF state. And of course it still draws a little bit of power in the OFF state since it's always waiting for a remote signal.


That's why I stayed away from the wireless version of this kill switch.

 

[t3lcfe]

I’m having some issues, guys…

Ever since my last check engine light issue—which was resolved by unplugging the battery terminal for a few hours—I’ve been dealing with another problem.

This morning, when I started the car (started rough), I noticed that while switching from Park to neutral it idled rough, almost like it was going to stall. I drove for about 45 minutes and everything seemed fine, but when I parked and shifted into reverse, the car stalled.

There are no engine lights on, and I’m not sure if this could be related to the cold weather (it’s about 6°F).

I’m thinking it might be my 12V battery starting to die, especially since I’ve heard the kill switch could be drawing power. I also noticed that my Vantrue N4 Pro dashcam isn’t recording after the car is turned off. It’s plugged into the OBDII port for continuous recording until the voltage drops below a certain level to protect the 12V battery, so that seems suspicious.

I’m probably overthinking it, but Toyota might not be able to confirm anything since there’s no check engine light.

I never had that kind of problem. I drive my LC to work everyday…never turned OFF the kill switch wireless fob when parked over night at home garage. (Always OFF/activated kill switch during working hours in office)
How often you drive your LC?
You can do the experiment with key fob OFF during home parking over night to see if how it goes.
In California, I had never have that cold 6F degree 50F is worst already

 

[TEQJ250]

With a little help for @t3lcfe and @EOD Guy I did an installation of th 41.22 Kill Switch with Bluetooth. Depending on how comfortable you are with soldering a single connection, this is about as easy of an install as possible. You can do this using a crimped butt joint if you don't want to solder anything.

Materials:
1. 41.22 Kill Switch, Universal Fit Kit - Type 2 (T2)
2. Mini Fuse Tap (many options available, I picked mine up at O'Reilly. You can certainly get something cheaper from Amazon.)
3. Heat Shrink Tubing (if you plan to solder the power lead)
4. M6 bolt (I used a phillips head bolt)

Step 1: Disconnect 12 V battery at the rear of the LC. Do not skip this step!

Step 2: Remove the cover to the driver's side fuse box.

Step 3: Remove and Disassemble the clamshell clamp on the fuse box - this was a little bit difficult to get apart after I removed it from the side of the box. The release points for the assembly are shown in the first picture. The second picture shows the three tabs holding the clamshell together.

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3. Connect the hot (red) lead from the 41.22 Kill Switch to the mini fuse tap. You can either cut off the round connector, strip the wire, and use the provided crimp connector or solder the two wires together. I chose to solder the wires together and used heat shrink tubing to seal up the joint. Don't forget to put the heat shrink tubing on before soldering the connection!

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4. Remove the starter relay and replace it with the reverse relay in the 41.22 Kill Switch box as shown in the photo below.

5. Insert the mini fuse tap as shown in the photo below.

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6. Route the wires out through the corrugated wire loom. I wrapped the wires with some electrical tape to provide some additional protection. I also used a single cable tie to attach the wires to the wire loom. When finished, reassemble the clam shell and replace it on the fuse box.

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7. Attach the ground wire to the bolt shown in picture (it's not a great shot, but you'll see it!) and use an M6 bolt to attach the 41.22 control box as shown in the picture. I needed to open up the hole on the control box with a 15/64" drill bit becuase the M6 bolt was just barely larger than the hole. I also used some zip ties to hold the wires together and placed them neatly behind the control box. I would also put a small amout of blue loctite on the bolts before assembling.

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8. Connect the ground to the battery and check to make sure that the device works.


One final note - I had some foam rubber that I attached to the back of the control box to prevent any damage to the paint. Since the unit only touches the sheet metal in a small area, I did not cover the whole bottom of the box. Here's a pic:

View attachment 55092

Nice write up! Where did you tap for 12v?

 

[Blue Bear]

Nice write up! Where did you tap for 12v?

The tap is shown in step 5 of the install.

 

[EOD Guy]

For those wondering.......... the kill switch (non-BT) "appears" (not sure at this point) to be nothing more than a relay that's had it's neg leg of the coil removed. The normal neg tang is clipped off and replaced with a wire that exits the relay housing. That wire is routed/connected to a manual switch. The small black box that has the logo printed on it, is empty. The wire enters the "gland" looped around a peg and the exits the gland, it's not connected or spliced into anything! I assume in the BT version, the BT receiver is housed in the logo box.

Going to explore this more during an upcoming mod when my Aux fuel tank arrives.

So if you have soldering skills and want to save $100 bucks..... use a Toyota relay cut off the Neg tang, drill a hole in the case, insert a wire and solder to the internal side of the tang you just cut off..............

(edit) I got bored and curious...... I successfully replicated the "reversed ground" relay that came in the kit. I used a el-cheapo replacement relay from Advance Auto and I was able to solder a wire on the internal portion of the "tang". I ordered some OEM relays (well, after market with OEM numbers and color) and I'll see how those fare. It never occurred to me to interrupt the ground leg of a relay as an anti-theft measure. My next challenge is to modify a relay and hide the external wire better, so it's not obvious without looking very close.

 

[of_cruiser]

For those wondering.......... the kill switch (non-BT) "appears" (not sure at this point) to be nothing more than a relay that's had it's neg leg of the coil removed. The normal neg tang is clipped off and replaced with a wire that exits the relay housing. That wire is routed/connected to a manual switch. The small black box that has the logo printed on it, is empty. The wire enters the "gland" looped around a peg and the exits the gland, it's not connected or spliced into anything! I assume in the BT version, the BT receiver is housed in the logo box.

Going to explore this more during an upcoming mod when my Aux fuel tank arrives.

So if you have soldering skills and want to save $100 bucks..... use a Toyota relay cut off the Neg tang, drill a hole in the case, insert a wire and solder to the internal side of the tang you just cut off..............

(edit) I got bored and curious...... I successfully replicated the "reversed ground" relay that came in the kit. I used a el-cheapo replacement relay from Advance Auto and I was able to solder a wire on the internal portion of the "tang". I ordered some OEM relays (well after market with OEM numbers and color) and I'll see how those fare. It never occurred to me to interrupt the ground leg of a relay as an anti-theft measure. My next challenge is to modify a relay and hide the external wire better, so it's not obvious without looking very close.

Keep us updated!

 

[EOD Guy]

Keep us updated!

I'm almost finished with a relay base/socket that will have the wire built into it. The base will plug into the fuse box and the OEM relay will plug into the base. Once the base is completed (awaiting some 22 AWG terminal taps) there will not be a need to modify a relay.

 

[EOD Guy]

Teaser........ I will also make a key fob activated version of this. the fob kit is $19 on amazon. I have no intention of using the FOB version, but It's what I like to do to keep my skills sharp......lol

When I complete the circuits/pieces, I will be putting up a new post with step-by-step instructions on what I did, what parts I used etc........ and as always build/use at your own risk........

 

[AgRN16]

For those of you who did the wireless, did they raise the price? Im checking it out and it is listed at almost $180 for the wireless.

Also, for the "wired version," any generic places to put the switch that can be accessed inside the cabin but very unlikely to be seen/suspected by a thief?

Finally in the Toyota drop down options, the only one for the Land Cruiser 250 says "Australian Version". Does anyone know if this version works for us here in the USA?