Upgrading speakers on 1958

[Rubicon15]

I’ve read a few threads regarding this topic. However, has anyone installed JL Audio C6 650cw in the rear doors and C2 650x in the front doors? Crutchfield recommends the more expensive C6 for the rear doors - $299 each. The C2’s are a two way speaker and are only $250 for a pair. Thoughts?

Without changing the head unit or adding an amplifier, did you notice a significant difference in the quality of sound?

 

[stec06]

It'll almost certainly sounds worse than factory because you're trying to drive power-hungry speakers with what little juice the OEM head unit has to offer.

 

[Rubicon15]

It'll almost certainly sounds worse than factory because you're trying to drive power-hungry speakers with what little juice the OEM head unit has to offer.

Interesting comment. All of the speakers are 4 ohm and have a similar db. Based on the specs, none of them are power hungry. I agree, adding an amp would be nice. However, the OEM head unit should be able to drive the speakers. Have you read some of the other threads? What am I missing?

 

[pizzlegreet]

Leave the rear door speakers stock.

I’m considering how to do a stereo upgrade and I think one-way 6” to the front door and one-way 3” to the dash locations would be the best bang for the buck.

I do think you will need an amp. I’m thinking about how to get the signal from the head unit to the amp and JL has some signal processing unit that looks like it can sum the headunit outputs and then send a clean signal to the amp.

I’m also not 100%sure where to put the amp and DSP unit.

 

[Code54]

I upgraded my speakers on my 1958 - it was ok, but really no better at all. Sort of tinny and not bass. I then added a beatsonic amp and a powered sub under the drivers seat. That did the trick, it is much better!

 

[Rubicon15]

Leave the rear door speakers stock.

I’m considering how to do a stereo upgrade and I think one-way 6” to the front door and one-way 3” to the dash locations would be the best bang for the buck.

I do think you will need an amp. I’m thinking about how to get the signal from the head unit to the amp and JL has some signal processing unit that looks like it can sum the headunit outputs and then send a clean signal to the amp.

I’m also not 100%sure where to put the amp and DSP unit.

Are you considering the JL Audio C6 650’s. They are $299 each. I was considering the two way C2 650’s at $250 a pair. I’ve seen one post regarding a simple mod to install the JL 350’s. A 3.5 inch in the dashboard.

 

[Rubicon15]

I upgraded my speakers on my 1958 - it was ok, but really no better at all. Sort of tinny and not bass. I then added a beatsonic amp and a powered sub under the drivers seat. That did the trick, it is much better!

Which speakers did you install?

 

[TX_Landman]

The JL C6 650cw is a woofer and only good from 55 Hz-6 KHz so you would need an active or passive crossover. Also would not make sense to have C2s up front and C6s in the back. Put the best speakers in the front.

 

[Rubicon15]

The JL C6 650cw is a woofer and only good from 55 Hz-6 KHz so you would need an active or passive crossover. Also would not make sense to have C2s up front and C6s in the back. Put the best speakers in the front.

I was thinking the same thing since the C6 fit both the front and back. I plan on starting with the dashboard speakers and front door speakers. Are the crossovers you describe readily available through Crutchfield?

I’m thinking about the JL Audio 350’ s for the dashboard and the C6 650’s for the front doors. I’m not sure if the C6 woofers will sound better than the C2 650’s. Any thoughts?

 

[Code54]

Which speakers did you install?

JVC CS-DR421 and
Kicker 46CSC674
Not expensive or anything fancy but with the Beatsonic amp, and JBL Nano powered sub under the seat it made a big difference.

 

[stec06]

Interesting comment. All of the speakers are 4 ohm and have a similar db. Based on the specs, none of them are power hungry. I agree, adding an amp would be nice. However, the OEM head unit should be able to drive the speakers. Have you read some of the other threads? What am I missing?

You're adding speakers with bigger magnets, stiffer surrounds, and stiffer cones that will need more power to sound the way they're supposed to. Will they play music? Sure. But adding an amp should be the first order of business, IMO. Without an amp, you might get slightly better highs, but your mid- and low-end will disappear unless you can really drive those things. Also, I'd be weary of adding crossovers to a factory system that's already probably aggressively handicapped by the OEM head unit, i.e. bass roll-off at moderate to high volumes.

I've been through all this before with my Tacoma. Did a plug-and-play amp that made the factory speakers sounds really good, but ended up amplifying the crappy OEM signal and all it's faults (got hissing, etc)...then swapped out speakers... then added an AudioControl unit to try correcting the signal...

Wasn't until I swapped to an aftermarket head unit with legitimately good, clean signal (and an amp) that the sound really came alive. But I recognize that's a lot harder to do these days with so much rest-of-car integration in factory radios. So it's all moot.

 

[Onandoffroaddriving]

In an 1958 trim, I replaced the front door with JL C2-690tx and the rear doors with C2-650x while removing the dash speakers for the moment because of electrical cautions. The new speakers sound far better even with only factory power.

I've read that aftermarket speakers can be more sensitive than stock and play louder. That spec is provided on speaker brand webpages as SENSITIVITY (SPL @ 1 W/1 M).

Crutchfield Notes and techs identify the front doors and dash corners as factory wired in parallel with the stock dash an "8 ohm" speaker and the door being "4 ohm". Wiring two speakers in parallel changes the resistance of the circuit and changes the wattage delivered and can strain amps, potentially to failure. Because I changed the door speakers from stock, I am wary of altering the circuit resistance and stressing the factory head unit. I figured Toyota paired their two speakers to work with the factory unit and an aftermarket speaker could be meaningfully different.

My next step to install C2-350x dash speakers (C2-400x seem like too tight a fit) on new speaker wiring and externally amp everything with an 8-channel DPS amp Infinity DSP6840 ($350) (JBL DSP4086 is identical). It has 40W per channel which triples power from stock, to more channels, and is not too much to endanger the factory EQ unit under the driver's seat carpet (per Crutchfield tech). The amp also allows for also adding a center dash and powered sub with everything DSP tuned for correction of factory signal, speaker time alignment, crossovers, and EQ tuning to the cabin.

A simpler amp route would be the Beatsonic ENA-3T3 which adds 25W RMS compared the reported 10-15W of the stock head unit. BTW, Beatsonic has a wiring harness BH-10 that looks to simplify adding any external amp.

 

[Rubicon15]

You're adding speakers with bigger magnets, stiffer surrounds, and stiffer cones that will need more power to sound the way they're supposed to. Will they play music? Sure. But adding an amp should be the first order of business, IMO. Without an amp, you might get slightly better highs, but your mid- and low-end will disappear unless you can really drive those things. Also, I'd be weary of adding crossovers to a factory system that's already probably aggressively handicapped by the OEM head unit, i.e. bass roll-off at moderate to high volumes.

I've been through all this before with my Tacoma. Did a plug-and-play amp that made the factory speakers sounds really good, but ended up amplifying the crappy OEM signal and all it's faults (got hissing, etc)...then swapped out speakers... then added an AudioControl unit to try correcting the signal...

Wasn't until I swapped to an aftermarket head unit with legitimately good, clean signal (and an amp) that the sound really came alive. But I recognize that's a lot harder to do these days with so much rest-of-car integration in factory radios. So it's all moot.

Agree, a new head unit is next to impossible these days. An amp may be installed at a later date. I would like to start with replacing the front speakers then move to the back or add an amp as you suggested. Thoughts regarding JL or Focal? Which dashboard speakers did you install on your 1958?

 

[TX_Landman]

I was thinking the same thing since the C6 fit both the front and back. I plan on starting with the dashboard speakers and front door speakers. Are the crossovers you describe readily available through Crutchfield?

I’m thinking about the JL Audio 350’ s for the dashboard and the C6 650’s for the front doors. I’m not sure if the C6 woofers will sound better than the C2 650’s. Any thoughts?

I was thinking the same thing since the C6 fit both the front and back. I plan on starting with the dashboard speakers and front door speakers. Are the crossovers you describe readily available through Crutchfield?

I’m thinking about the JL Audio 350’ s for the dashboard and the C6 650’s for the front doors. I’m not sure if the C6 woofers will sound better than the C2 650’s. Any thoughts?

I think first you need to decide what is your end game for the system. The C6 line of speakers would only make sense if you’re going to use high end amps and signal processors which will take a lot of power from the electrical system. Crutchfield only recommends amps with a 30 amps or lower rating.


I put the JL Audio CF-350MT in the dash they come with passive crossovers at 450 hz. Will probably put a mid bass driver up front and build my own 500 hz low pass crossover. I have been looking at the Match 5.4 dsp, not sure yet but not going to due anything to crazy.

 

[Rubicon15]

I think first you need to decide what is your end game for the system. The C6 line of speakers would only make sense if you’re going to use high end amps and signal processors which will take a lot of power from the electrical system. Crutchfield only recommends amps with a 30 amps or lower rating.


I put the JL Audio CF-350MT in the dash they come with passive crossovers at 450 hz. Will probably put a mid bass driver up front and build my own 500 hz low pass crossover. I have been looking at the Match 5.4 dsp, not sure yet but not going to due anything to crazy.

Based on your comment, would I be better off installing JL C2 650’s, 2 way 6.5 inch speakers in the front doors and the 350’s in the dash. I’m on the fence regarding the amp. Or should I strongly consider going all in with an amp sooner rather than later and installing the better speakers? How much does a good amp and install cost?

I started a new thread and listed two different speaker options - JL Audio or Focal with possible Audiofrog dashboard speakers. Thoughts?

 

[TX_Landman]

Based on your comment, would I be better off installing JL C2 650’s, 2 way 6.5 inch speakers in the front doors and the 350’s in the dash. I’m on the fence regarding the amp. Or should I strongly consider going all in with an amp sooner rather than later and installing the better speakers? How much does a good amp and install cost?

I started a new thread and listed two different speaker options - JL Audio or Focal with possible Audiofrog dashboard speakers. Thoughts?

I am a speaker first guy. IMO you just need to think about a balanced system, no need to use top of the line speakers unless your going to give them the clean signal and power the need. You might just upgrade you speakers and decide it’s good enough(all though it’s never really good enough).

My preference is soft dome tweeters, Focals sound awesome but I get listener fatigue.

 

[Rubicon15]

I am a speaker first guy. IMO you just need to think about a balanced system, no need to use top of the line speakers unless your going to give them the clean signal and power the need. You might just upgrade you speakers and decide it’s good enough(all though it’s never really good enough).

My preference is soft dome tweeters, Focals sound awesome but I get listener fatigue.

I tend to agree. For the money and level of sonic improvement, it sounds like I should really consider the JL Audio C2 650 two way speakers. Thoughts on JL? How much does a good amp cost with installation?

 

[Rubicon15]

If I wanted to go all in, how much is a good amp?

 

[Onandoffroaddriving]

I tend to agree. For the money and level of sonic improvement, it sounds like I should really consider the JL Audio C2 650 two way speakers. Thoughts on JL? How much does a good amp cost with installation?

The JL C2-650x are very good speakers. For the front doors, the 6x9 C2-690tx fit and provide more bass frequencies.

 

[pizzlegreet]

I’m following this thread because I’m in the same boat. I think that without adding an amp the speakers won’t sound a whole lot better than stock.

A 4-channel 50-90 watt RMS amp will be 200-600 depending on which one you get.

I added Sound deanening to all four doors last week and that made the stock door speakers sound much better all by itself. That was less than $100 as a DIY project and took me about an hour per door.

The real issue after deciding to get the amp is how to get the signal to the amp and is that signal any good. I’m stuck at this question currently. I can’t tell if the spend will be worth the improvement as someone mentioned upthread.