"TOYOTA" center cap will not completely seat in front wheel of '25 LC 1958

[DubDub]

My front caps are flush and snug after cutting out the back side.

Yeah I saw your mod. I’m planning to pull the trigger on some new wheels soon, just in a decision black hole at the moment. If I go with an OE option I’d rather these be whole. They’ve survived at least 5,000 miles as is

 

[BB3]

This is odd. I also have a '25 1958 (Hino) and my caps are all completely seated, all four look exactly the same in relationship to the wheel. Am thinking it is the dust cap or the part it goes on not letting it seat at the design dimension. Something is out of spec. Regardless I would think its a warranty issue?

 

[DubDub]

This is odd. I also have a '25 1958 (Hino) and my caps are all completely seated, all four look exactly the same in relationship to the wheel. Am thinking it is the dust cap or the part it goes on not letting it seat at the design dimension. Something is out of spec. Regardless I would think its a warranty issue?

I don’t think it’s a big deal. We’re all trying to install a cap not intended for our 1958 wheels, so any attempt to have a concern centered around that issue is going to fall on deaf ears. Hub dust caps aren’t going to have a tight spec tolerance to point to either. I just don’t see being able to articulate an issue when they’re just going to tell you the OE caps work fine.

 

[TOY LC58]

Yeah I saw your mod. I’m planning to pull the trigger on some new wheels soon, just in a decision black hole at the moment. If I go with an OE option I’d rather these be whole. They’ve survived at least 5,000 miles as is

In the past few days I drove from the NC mountains to Oak Island and back. The truck drives great, is very comfortable and gets decent highway mpg. I did notice a few rough transmission downshifts and a couple of strange "thumps" in the drive train at 70-75 mph. Hoping this is normal and may smooth out in time. Truck has 5600 miles on it. And the wheel caps stayed in place.

 

[DubDub]

In the past few days I drove from the NC mountains to Oak Island and back. The truck drives great, is very comfortable and gets decent highway mpg. I did notice a few rough transmission downshifts and a couple of strange "thumps" in the drive train at 70-75 mph. Hoping this is normal and may smooth out in time. Truck has 5600 miles on it. And the wheel caps stayed in place.

Which Oak Island??? I’ve been to the Oak Island in Charleston, SC on the way to Folley a few hundred times. I’ve only seen the one in Canada on TV

 

[BB3]

I don’t think it’s a big deal. We’re all trying to install a cap not intended for our 1958 wheels, so any attempt to have a concern centered around that issue is going to fall on deaf ears. Hub dust caps aren’t going to have a tight spec tolerance to point to either. I just don’t see being able to articulate an issue when they’re just going to tell you the OE caps work fine.

Ah sorry missed the non OE part (sic)

 

[DubDub]

Ah sorry missed the non OE part (sic)

Yeah, they are Toyota “OE” caps, but not specifically designated for our wheels.

 

[TOY LC58]

Which Oak Island??? I’ve been to the Oak Island in Charleston, SC on the way to Folley a few hundred times. I’ve only seen the one in Canada on TV

Oak Island, NC

 

[roseluna]

Found a solution for the "TOYOTA" wheel center cap that will not completely seat in the front wheel of my '25 LC 1958. My wheels are the OEM 7" x 18" version. The center cap hits the dust cover and protrudes slightly from the wheel opening. I used a 1 1/2" dia. hole saw and carefully cut out the back side of the center cap, adjusting the hole saw pilot bit so it would not bore through the outer part of the center cap. I tried to remove the outer center part but was concerned about breaking off the tabs so I just left it in place. The center cap now seats completely in the opening. I applied some electrical tape on the 5 securing tabs for a tighter fit and It takes some effort to rotate caps. My next step is to make the wire rings as found on the OEM Toyota logo center caps. Refer to rs choi's thread "Toyota Wheels-DYI Center Cap Wire Alternatives" for this, especially if you're also looking into bmw used spares.View attachment 65880cap

That’s a clever fix. Cutting the back of the center cap for dust cover clearance while keeping the outer tabs intact seems like a good approach. The electrical tape should also help tighten the fit without permanently modifying the wheel. Adding the wire rings next sounds like a solid way to improve security and make the setup more OEM like. Thanks for sharing the details, especially the 1½ inch hole saw method. This should be useful for other LC 1958 owners running into the same center cap clearance problem.

 

[basicxj]

I finally got around to installing my Heritage lettering centre caps- on TRD wheels they popped right in with no interference with the hub dust covers. No mods required.

 

[RoundRock_Cruiser]

i just purchased 5 of the bronze heritage caps (PT998-35221-5F) and i will be putting them on my new TRD 18-In. Flat Black Alloy Wheel / Part Number: PTR56-35242-F1. I hope i don't have any issues.

 

[basicxj]

i just purchased 5 of the bronze heritage caps (PT998-35221-5F) and i will be putting them on my new TRD 18-In. Flat Black Alloy Wheel / Part Number: PTR56-35242-F1. I hope i don't have any issues.

Those are the ones I got-

They fit like a glove. The increased offset has the centre caps sitting farther away from the dust cover and they work well. They look better on the TRD wheels (IMHO) than the OEM "bug" logo caps.

 

[DubDub]

Those are the ones I got-

View attachment 73416

They fit like a glove. The increased offset has the centre caps sitting farther away from the dust cover and they work well. They look better on the TRD wheels (IMHO) than the OEM "bug" logo caps.

Yep, fit like a glove on my BBS Pros. I actually think it’s more about the width (7.5”+ vs. 1958 7”) that makes the difference. Doubt offset impacts the hub of the wheel?

Edit: you know what? As I sit here and think about it, the hub bore depth would be impacted by extremely + offsets. I don’t know what to think anymore.

 

[basicxj]

I believe it is a combination. On my OEM 20" axle's the dust cap was closer to the wheel face than it is on the TRDs.

 

[wpage]

Did you try tapping in with rubber mallet with some Vaseline?

 

[RoundRock_Cruiser]

Those are the ones I got-

View attachment 73416

They fit like a glove. The increased offset has the centre caps sitting farther away from the dust cover and they work well. They look better on the TRD wheels (IMHO) than the OEM "bug" logo caps.

How did you get yours off?

Just tried to install and scratched up my wheel trying to get the old one off. I tried plastic credit cards and duct tape but nothing worked. I have a tire rotation coming up, i' may ask the dealer to swap them then.

 

[DubDub]

How did you get yours off?

Just tried to install and scratched up my wheel trying to get the old one off. I tried plastic credit cards and duct tape but nothing worked. I have a tire rotation coming up, i' may ask the dealer to swap them then.

The least risky way is to just remove the wheel and push it out. I have non-ferrite and plastic hand tools having worked for a long while in that world, and my plastic tweaker/flat heads worked like a charm. For the wife’s Sequoia they were very snug, so I drove a 1/2” self tapping screw in about 1.5 threads deep and just gave them a yank with a pair of pliers.

 

[basicxj]

How did you get yours off?

Just tried to install and scratched up my wheel trying to get the old one off. I tried plastic credit cards and duct tape but nothing worked. I have a tire rotation coming up, i' may ask the dealer to swap them then.

The dealer rotated the tires during service and popped them out from the back- that is the best way, no risk of damage to wheels.