Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

[ultane]

I was really tempted to try this. I guess since I have skid plates it’s probably fine. Just have anxiety about messing it up and then leaking oil all over. I guess I could keep the original in the truck in case shit ever hits the fan.

You are NOT gong to screw anything up. You actually put the Fumoto valve on the oil pan, after you drain the oil. Wipe it clean, make sure the last (original) crush washer is off the oil pan, put the valve in, with the new supplied crush washer, and tighten 1/8” after making contact with the oil pan. Easy Peasy.

 

[Trailman]

Just changed the oil at 1000 miles. Very few specs of silver and the oil looked good coming out. Propped my oil drain pan up so it wouldn’t splash out so thank you to those of you who warned us first timers about that .

Added a Fumoto valve so next time should be even easier. This vehicle is fun to do maintenance on. Appreciate the designers and engineers thoughtful touches like the two skid plate bolts that stay on to make dropping and installing the skid plate easier and the little spout to direct the oil from the filter.

 

[rusty_sandwedge]

Just did my first/break-in oil change and installed a Fumoto oil valve. I'm honestly not the most handy person or mechanically inclined but I have done oil changes on my old car and had most of the tools so I felt comfortable doing it myself.

Tools used:

• Ramps
• 3/8 in ratchet
• 12mm socket for skitplate bolts
• extension for the 3/8 in ratchet to get to 2 of the bolts on the skidplate
• 14mm socket for drain pan plug
• 1/2 in ratchet for oil filter wrench attachment
• 64mm oil filter wrench I bought at walmart
• 3/8 in drive torque wrench
• 14mm crowfoot wrench attachment to torque the fumoto valve to 15 ft/lbs spec. I bought this at harbor freight.
• Toyota 90915-YZZN1 oil filter I bought at walmart
• Fumoto F103N valve I bought from the Fumoto website.
• Mobil 1 advanced fuel economy 0W-20 I bought at costco

The procedure was standard and simple as some of you have documented. One observation I made was that since my LC was on ramps, thus slightly angled, oil from the filter housing spilled onto the back part of the skid plate (I didn't remove the back part, only opened the access panel to the drain pan). Not a big deal as I just removed it and cleaned it off. Next time I'll remove both parts of the skidplate before removing the filter to prevent this. This is for the standard skidplate, not the FE/upgraded version. Hopefully, I get less oil on my hands/garage floor on my next oil change now that the Fumoto valve is installed. Thanks for all the info already in this thread, it helped.

Looking for the right tool to remove and reinstall my underbody cover “skid plate” easier for my next oil change. Would anyone recommend an electric ratchet or an impact driver? Is one better than the other for this type of job?

 

[Syed117]

Looking for the right tool to remove and reinstall my underbody cover “skid plate” easier for my next oil change. Would anyone recommend an electric ratchet or an impact driver? Is one better than the other for this type of job?

You just need a ratchet or whatever handle with a 12mm deep socket.

Definitely don't need anything powered. It's very easy and doesn't require much strength. The only thing I've read is how tight the oil filter is. Get the oil filter wrench mentioned in this thread. I had a longer handle ready (black on right), but didn't need it. Mine wasn't too tight and I had no issue loosening it. Every other bolt is easy to remove.

Oil Filter Wrench

I am an absolute amateur and the most I've done on a car is change a few tires in the last 20 years. All I did was read this thread and watch a generic "how to change oil" video on youtube.

 

[rusty_sandwedge]

You just need a ratchet or whatever handle with a 12mm deep socket.

Definitely don't need anything powered. It's very easy and doesn't require much strength. The only thing I've read is how tight the oil filter is. Get the oil filter wrench mentioned in this thread. I had a longer handle ready (black on right), but didn't need it. Mine wasn't too tight and I had no issue loosening it. Every other bolt is easy to remove.

Oil Filter Wrench

I am an absolute amateur and the most I've done on a car is change a few tires in the last 20 years. All I did was read this thread and watch a generic "how to change oil" video on youtube.

View attachment 13492

I’ve done it before with my hand tools (see my post that I replied to) and was “easy peasy”. Just looking for something to make it even easier.

 

[EOD Guy]

If your looking for a good quality impact wrench that is dual purpose, I use the Dewalt 20v system. You will have to purchase the "hex to square" bit to use for sockets. The beauty of this system is that it is a impact screwdriver and will drive 3" screws into a 2x4 with no issues and with the socket bit, it will make quick work out of most (1/2" and below) bolts/nuts. Ther are many advantages to the 20v system, the extra large flashlight will light up a campsite some kind of good.

 

[thurchik]

My dealer uses TOYOTA 5w30 for oil change in LC. I leave in a continental climate: -15C in winter and +35C in summer (Celsius).
How do you guys think if 5w30 is okay?

 

[ultane]

If your looking for a good quality impact wrench that is dual purpose, I use the Dewalt 20v system. You will have to purchase the "hex to square" bit to use for sockets. The beauty of this system is that it is a impact screwdriver and will drive 3" screws into a 2x4 with no issues and with the socket bit, it will make quick work out of most (1/2" and below) bolts/nuts. Ther are many advantages to the 20v system, the extra large flashlight will light up a campsite some kind of good.

View attachment 13500

I would not use an impact driver to install ANY of the bolts required for an oil change. Okay to use them to remove the bolts. But if you use an impact ‘anything’ to install the bolts, the inexperienced WILL strip them, eventually. (See my next post on Miss Daisy’s first oil change, when I get it posted...)

 

[No15]

My dealer uses TOYOTA 5w30 for oil change in LC. I leave in a continental climate: -15C in winter and +35C in summer (Celsius).
How do you guys think if 5w30 is okay?

Imo it's not an issue at all and maybe a slight positive. In the end you have to do what makes you feel comfortable. I, myself, wouldn't think twice about it.

 

[bgeorger]

I’ve done it before with my hand tools (see my post that I replied to) and was “easy peasy”. Just looking for something to make it even easier.

I use a Milwaukee power ratchet and the skid plate is on and off in seconds. Use standard hand tools for the other things.

Milwaukee M12 FUEL 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless High Speed 3/8 in. Ratchet (Tool-Only) 2567-20 - The Home Depot

Acquire an essential and ultimate addition with this Milwaukee M12 FUEL Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless High Speed Ratchet. Made of durable material.

www.homedepot.com

 

[pickax]

My dealer uses TOYOTA 5w30 for oil change in LC. I leave in a continental climate: -15C in winter and +35C in summer (Celsius).
How do you guys think if 5w30 is okay?

You have a non-hybrid 4 cyl right? Maybe a factor. IMO those temp ranges aren't that extreme (last year in Eastern WA US we peaked out at 42C and hit -13C a few times), I'm sticking with the owners manual reccomended viscosity.

 

[EOD Guy]

I would not use an impact driver to install ANY of the bolts required for an oil change. Okay to use them to remove the bolts. But if you use an impact ‘anything’ to install the bolts, the inexperienced WILL strip them, eventually. (See my next post on Miss Daisy’s first oil change, when I get it posted...)

Once you get used to the impact drill/driver and trigger control, you can snug them up without actually torquing them (well maybe a lb or so). I never stripped a bolt with the 20v drill/driver, after all it was made for phillips head screws.

 

[Bappy]

Did you replace the plug gasket? if so part number?

 

[robsurfskate]

Why do this yourself, when the oil changes are covered by TOYOTA?

 

[EOD Guy]

Why do this yourself, when the oil changes are covered by TOYOTA?

Only two (1 at 10k and 1 at 20K) are covered, unless you purchased the maint plan etc....

 

[No15]

Why do this yourself, when the oil changes are covered by TOYOTA?

Nearest toyota dealer to me is over an hour away and when I move it will be further lol

 

[thurchik]

You have a non-hybrid 4 cyl right? Maybe a factor. IMO those temp ranges aren't that extreme (last year in Eastern WA US we peaked out at 42C and hit -13C a few times), I'm sticking with the owners manual reccomended viscosity.

Yes. 2,4 non-hybrid turbo.

 

[rjmh]

After completing my ~1,000 mile break in oil and filter change, I wanted to add something that I didn't find in the thread.

I used vacuum extraction and got about 5.3 litres out of the engine. There was an additional 200ml in the filter and say 2-400ml in the pan when I opened the drain bolt. I measured the dipstick and inserted a similar length tube. I was able to push more in and given the shape of the oil sump that's not surprising.

I did the change with the truck flat and a front lift would help with draining more oil into the pan from the filter I think.

I put in 6L of fresh oil and after running it in, the dip stick was showing about 3/4 full. Just some reference points.

Engine was warm and with that thin oil the extraction was the quickest I have seen.

 

[ultane]

Once you get used to the impact drill/driver and trigger control, you can snug them up without actually torquing them (well maybe a lb or so). I never stripped a bolt with the 20v drill/driver, after all it was made for phillips head screws.

I’ve been using electric impacts for a decade (Milwaulkie), and before that, air impacts, of multiple sizes. Also just refastened a metal roof. They can easily get away from an inexperienced as well as an experienced user, especially when tightening the fasteners.

 

[ultane]

Why do this yourself, when the oil changes are covered by TOYOTA?

A lot of us wanted to do the first oil change very early, after taking delivery to get the contaminants from manufacturing out of the engine, especially after the recent Tundra engine fiasco, as apposed to waiting until 10,000 miles were on the odometer, and every 10,000 miles thereafter. It’s been discussed ad nauseam all over the inter webs.