Low gas milage

Calokie · Apr 16, 2026

Sugarloafer80 said:
LC mileage, forget mods folks, you brought that on yourselves, is highly dependent on mileage. It's all about the aero.
I routinely see a 2+mpg drop from 75-80 mph for example. After 6000miles it is is obvious.
Therefore, I give you a range which accounts for variations in temps, winds etc that I have witnessed. On a + note, the onboard calculations are always +/-.2-.3mpg. Impressive. These are based on CC regulated speed
80mph 17-20mpg
75mph 21-23mpg
70mph 23-25mpg
65mph......too boring to try but I have routinely seen 25++mpg in the hypermiler zone....and this is precisely the speed the EPA testing is done at!!!

Snow tires have traditionally reduced MPG on any vehicle I have owned by 1 mpg.

Sport modes kill mileage in several ways.
1. They hold shift points to give one a "sporty" sensation..often regardless of actual effective and often with a disregard to torque peaks. great for towing and hilly terrain if loaded. Does NOTHING for passing ability etc.
2. They are nothing but a throttle controller hyped up making a vehicle bounce on and off boost unless your inputs are deadly smooth. I ghave hated every TC installed car I have ever tried. STUPID MOD!! TheyNEVER make a car faster...same people thought Vornados helped hehe.
A very detailed review of our LC called out the accelerator as aggressive btw, so sport mode exacerbates this behavior. I routinely make students shut off sport mode when teaching till they learn to modulate smoothly. It is a major weakness in the driving skills of many. Affects mileage, car control at the limit, winter skills esp icy conditions and MILEAGE. Scott Dixon (Indycar) is the absolute master at these skills and a prime reason he is among the winningest racers of all time.

Drive with the battery and boost gauges to teach yourself how to be smooth. That is my second set of gauges and I used it A LOT while learning vehicle....it helped me and I have 25yrs of track skills behind me. If it helped me, I am sure it can help you low mpg folks unless you are always 75mph and above, THEN YOU WILL DRINK FUEL.

Finally, so far, my mileage differences are minimal between regular and premium and this makes sense as the octane really only comes into play at WOT/peak power, high heat, towing conditions etc.

Just food for thought without too much science, but a fair amount of skills and experience.

For the record, 18 v 20s NO DIFFERENCE (SAME OD and weight VERY CLOSE). My setup is stock Yokos on the 20s and Michelin X Ice 3s on the 18s....both treads pretty optimal for highway and snows pulled off when temps broach 40 to save them when they DO get their most inefficient (soft and squishy). Michelins may actually be quieter much to my surprise. My pressures are always 33/33 or less cold. (31/31 bout as soft as I start but ride is exponentially better) More pressure just kills the ride esp at low speeds where all that unsprung weight gets jousty. Notice the minimal number of variables.

My gut says a moderate AT terrain would be like a snow in the mileage department. An aggressive one far worse and a E Load worse sill (unsprung weight is ALWAYS the enemy). While fine climbing in deep snow, they will NEVER compete with true winter rubber unless VERY heavily siped, even then I have never seen a test where they are close.

Hope the summary helps a few folks...in English, if your mileage sucks, you ARE NOT SMOOTH, live in hilly terrain that OF COURSE, kills mileage, lots of redlights/stopngo, jack rabbit starts etc. Try driving like a limo driver and I say that seriously because I did that one summer....you CAN be smooth AND FAST!!!.......ask Frank Perdue.......torque is your friend.

65mph is definitely boring.... and that's why people cant hit the Toyota MPG #s. From personal experience 65mph and below can net 28-36 (not so worth it) MPGs

DubDub · Apr 16, 2026

Calokie said:
65mph is definitely boring.... and that's why people cant hit the Toyota MPG #s. From personal experience 65mph and below can net 28-36 (not so worth it) MPGs

Until now, @ultane has been the king supreme IRT sustained mpg nearing the 30mpg benchmark. Even in his well documented success, he would be the first to acknowledge that much of that can be attributed to fuel selection and driving habits/environments. You mention personal experience so I am asking directly here, how did you achieve 36mpg? Was it sustained? I am trying not to be completely suspect here, but that seems astronomical. I never exceed 65 mph, use low ethenal 93, avoid heavy throttle input and primarily drive flat freeway and rural <50mph paved roads at sea level. I've never seen 25mpg while driving naked roofed and air dammed up. If you've sustained 36mpg I think you deserve a medal.

Mopper · Apr 16, 2026

Abe Lincoln advised that we not believe everything we read on the internet

Calokie · Apr 16, 2026

DubDub said:
Until now, @ultane has been the king supreme IRT sustained mpg nearing the 30mpg benchmark. Even in his well documented success, he would be the first to acknowledge that much of that can be attributed to fuel selection and driving habits/environments. You mention personal experience so I am asking directly here, how did you achieve 36mpg? Was it sustained? I am trying not to be completely suspect here, but that seems astronomical. I never exceed 65 mph, use low ethenal 93, avoid heavy throttle input and primarily drive flat freeway and rural <50mph paved roads at sea level. I've never seen 25mpg while driving naked roofed and air dammed up. If you've sustained 36mpg I think you deserve a medal.

My 36 MPG experience was achieved during the tail end of morning commute traffic.
Had to pick up the mother-in-law from SFO @ 11:30am 52 miles north of my home, VIA highway 101. Left home around 9:45am so had time to kill. I averaged between 35-65 MPH avoiding sudden stops or acceleration, Traffic pretty much flowed nonstop, I avoided the fast lane (for its commuter Lane HOV hours) Highway 101 from my house is in the slight uphill direction.

I use Toyota 0-w20 for the fact that Toyota oil has the highest Molybdenum content over all other 0-w20 oils

(should make you wonder why Toyota added so much Moly to their oil)

I’m at 10,140 miles, I’m about to have my 4th oil change, plan to change oil every 5k maybe 4k (unless I go off-roading then it will be sooner)
18” Bradley V wheels (25-26lb per wheel) +40 offset ( I believe the stock 18” wheel is 29lbs)
Stock Michelin XLT tires (for now)
No roof rack
Normal Mode
Stock height (for now, will be 1.5” lift soon)
91 chevron gas
No mods, except the Bradley V Wheels

DubDub · Apr 16, 2026

I'm confused... was it during the morning 1.75 mile commute:

Calokie said:
My 36 MPG experience was achieved during the tail end of morning commute traffic. I commute to work 1.75 miles each way and my MPG average is usually 18.8-19.1 that includes warm up (I use remote start and I always give her about 15-30 seconds before takeoff)

or the 52 mile trip here:

Calokie said:
So back to the 36 mpg… Had to pick up the mother-in-law from SFO @ 11:30am 52 miles north of my home, VIA highway 101. Left home around 9:45am so had time to kill. I averaged between 35-65 MPH avoiding sudden stops or acceleration, Traffic pretty much flowed nonstop, I avoided the fast lane (for its commuter Lane HOV hours) Highway 101 from my house is in the slight uphill direction.

And, was it sustained? I see 40-50mpg daily for approx 1/2 mile as I come down from the I-64 highrise bridge and coast... but that's not sustained, repeatable, reliable or valuable, you know?

Calokie · Apr 16, 2026

DubDub said:
I'm confused... was it during the morning 1.75 mile commute:

or the 52 mile trip here:

And, was it sustained? I see 40-50mpg daily for approx 1/2 mile as I come down from the I-64 highrise bridge and coast... but that's not sustained, repeatable, reliable or valuable, you know?

Edited to make it simple, since the 36mpg trip I’m refereeing to, is not my daily commute

Sugarloafer80 · Apr 17, 2026

Calokie said:
My 36 MPG experience was achieved during the tail end of morning commute traffic.
Had to pick up the mother-in-law from SFO @ 11:30am 52 miles north of my home, VIA highway 101. Left home around 9:45am so had time to kill. I averaged between 35-65 MPH avoiding sudden stops or acceleration, Traffic pretty much flowed nonstop, I avoided the fast lane (for its commuter Lane HOV hours) Highway 101 from my house is in the slight uphill direction.

I use Toyota 0-w20 for the fact that Toyota oil has the highest Molybdenum content over all other 0-w20 oils

(should make you wonder why Toyota added so much Moly to their oil)

I’m at 10,140 miles, I’m about to have my 4th oil change, plan to change oil every 5k maybe 4k (unless I go off-roading then it will be sooner)

18” Bradley V wheels (25-26lb per wheel) +40 offset ( I believe the stock 18” wheel is 29lbs)

Stock Michelin XLT tires (for now)

No roof rack

Normal Mode

Stock height (for now, will be 1.5” lift soon)

91 chevron gas

No mods, except the Bradley V Wheels

Moly is not the holy grail you think it is.........watch Motor Oil Geek..........I was a Zinc fanatic in my Lotus days(Toyota engined 2ZZ and 2GR) because of cam wipe issues on the 2ZZ.......oils have moved past that now.......SN oil is archaic compared to what is now made. SN+ is now formally SP and LSPI needs have changed oil drastically! It is all about the complete additive package. Nothing wrong with Toyota oil but nothing superior about it either. BTW it is made by Exxon Mobil for NA cars..............Idemitsu makes it for Japan produced vehicles. They have their own additive packages.
You did not get peak mileage at 35 mph because you are not yet in the highest gear. I bet, but have yet to confirm that 8th gear ona flat road no load situation doesn't happen till at least 60. Someone that is patient should play with that. I know on my back roads at 63-65, it downshifts from 8th routinely. It will hold it a bit moreinn Eco mode and no, not worried about carbon buildup, beause if you are going slower thanthat, you will get passed so I am not bothering you as you cruise along at YOUR desired pace. That is the other side ofmpassing btw. Slow cars think we are ass4ses for passing. On the contrary, I prefer, especially at night, to NOT have my headlights in your rear view mirrors for miles on end. Ironically, passing you is being courteous.

Our offroad folks hate these discussions, but even offroad, good efficient driving techniques will get you farther.....

justaprado · Apr 17, 2026

got 27 on a 15 mile trip in the suburbs last week.

Calokie · Apr 17, 2026

Sugarloafer80 said:
Moly is not the holy grail you think it is.........watch Motor Oil Geek..........I was a Zinc fanatic in my Lotus days(Toyota engined 2ZZ and 2GR) because of cam wipe issues on the 2ZZ.......oils have moved past that now.......SN oil is archaic compared to what is now made. SN+ is now formally SP and LSPI needs have changed oil drastically! It is all about the complete additive package. Nothing wrong with Toyota oil but nothing superior about it either. BTW it is made by Exxon Mobil for NA cars..............Idemitsu makes it for Japan produced vehicles. They have their own additive packages.
You did not get peak mileage at 35 mph because you are not yet in the highest gear. I bet, but have yet to confirm that 8th gear ona flat road no load situation doesn't happen till at least 60. Someone that is patient should play with that. I know on my back roads at 63-65, it downshifts from 8th routinely. It will hold it a bit moreinn Eco mode and no, not worried about carbon buildup, beause if you are going slower thanthat, you will get passed so I am not bothering you as you cruise along at YOUR desired pace. That is the other side ofmpassing btw. Slow cars think we are ass4ses for passing. On the contrary, I prefer, especially at night, to NOT have my headlights in your rear view mirrors for miles on end. Ironically, passing you is being courteous.

Our offroad folks hate these discussions, but even offroad, good efficient driving techniques will get you farther.....

I’m not giving credit to the moly, I believe the main ingredient to matching the Toyota MOG #s is driver technique and vehicle setup
However…

Sugarloafer80 said:
Moly is not the holy grail you think it is.........watch Motor Oil Geek..........I was a Zinc fanatic in my Lotus days(Toyota engined 2ZZ and 2GR) because of cam wipe issues on the 2ZZ.......oils have moved past that now.......SN oil is archaic compared to what is now made. SN+ is now formally SP and LSPI needs have changed oil drastically! It is all about the complete additive package. Nothing wrong with Toyota oil but nothing superior about it either. BTW it is made by Exxon Mobil for NA cars..............Idemitsu makes it for Japan produced vehicles. They have their own additive packages.
You did not get peak mileage at 35 mph because you are not yet in the highest gear. I bet, but have yet to confirm that 8th gear ona flat road no load situation doesn't happen till at least 60. Someone that is patient should play with that. I know on my back roads at 63-65, it downshifts from 8th routinely. It will hold it a bit moreinn Eco mode and no, not worried about carbon buildup, beause if you are going slower thanthat, you will get passed so I am not bothering you as you cruise along at YOUR desired pace. That is the other side ofmpassing btw. Slow cars think we are ass4ses for passing. On the contrary, I prefer, especially at night, to NOT have my headlights in your rear view mirrors for miles on end. Ironically, passing you is being courteous.

Our offroad folks hate these discussions, but even offroad, good efficient driving techniques will get you farther.....

ah glad you brought up the Moly additive....
I personally believe the main ingredient to achieving or surpassing Toyota claimed MPG # ABOVE ALL ELSE......is
Driver Technique

Driver Technique
1. speed (on average im 15-20Mph over the posted speed limit)
2. Throttle input
3. Drive Mode: Sport/Normal/Eco
4. Not letting the Turbo or Hybrid Battery kick on
Vehicle setup
1. tires
2. wheel size/weight
3. Roof rack/vehicle mods
MISC
1. Oil
  1. selection
  2. change interval/My 3rd gen Taco taco always achieved 2-3 mpg gain after oil change until about 3k miles
2. Fuel
  1. octane
  2. quality

I've watched Motor Oil Geek and his breakdown makes since, however he didn't cover all the aspects of moly additives, I also know Molybdenum is an expensive additive for toyota engineers to just simply add for no reason when they could use "off the shelf" Mobile1, Idemitsu or Kirkland Signature.

Mobil 1 synthetic 0-W20 has 70-90ppm of moly additive where Toyota has up to 900ppm

AI Breakdown below (no pun Intended)

Toyota (and many OEM-branded oils) often use higher levels of molybdenum additives—usually in the form of molybdenum dithiocarbamate (MoDTC)—for a few very practical engineering reasons:
1. Reduced friction (better efficiency)
Molybdenum acts as a friction modifier. Under load, it forms a very thin, slippery film on metal surfaces (like cam lobes, piston skirts, and bearings).
That reduces friction → which helps:

Improve fuel economy (important for meeting regulations)
Make engines feel smoother

2. Wear protection at startup
When you start a cold engine, oil hasn’t fully circulated yet. Moly helps protect during this boundary lubrication phase by:

Sticking to metal surfaces
Preventing direct metal-to-metal contact

This is especially important for modern engines with:

Tight tolerances
Start/stop systems
Thin oils like 0W-20

3. Works well with low-viscosity oils
Toyota heavily specifies 0W-16 and 0W-20 oils, which are thinner to reduce drag.
Thinner oil = less natural protection under high load → so molybdenum helps “make up the difference” by adding a protective layer without increasing viscosity.
4. Noise and smoothness
Moly can reduce valvetrain noise and general engine harshness. That’s part of why Toyota engines often feel very smooth and quiet compared to others in the same class.

5. Fuel economy + emissions strategy
Higher moly content helps Toyota hit:

Fuel economy targets
Emissions standards

…without needing heavier oil, which would hurt efficiency.
Why Toyota uses more than some others
Toyota OEM oil is known for relatively high moly content (often ~200–800 ppm depending on formulation), because:

Their engines are designed around low-friction operation
They prioritize long-term durability with thin oils
Their oil specs (like ILSAC GF-6) allow and benefit from friction modifiers

Important note
More moly isn’t always “better” universally:

Too much can compete with other additives (like anti-wear zinc/phosphorus)
The full additive package balance matters more than one element

Toyota’s formulation works because it’s tuned as a system—not just “extra moly dumped in.”

If you want, I can compare Toyota oil’s additive profile vs something like Mobil 1 or Pennzoil—there are some interesting differences that affect wear and MPG

ultane · Apr 17, 2026

Calokie said:
I’m not giving credit to the moly, I believe the main ingredient to matching the Toyota MOG #s is driver technique and vehicle setup
However…

ah glad you brought up the Moly additive....
I personally believe the main ingredient to achieving or surpassing Toyota claimed MPG # ABOVE ALL ELSE......is
Driver Technique

Driver Technique

speed (on average im 15-20Mph over the posted speed limit)

Throttle input

Drive Mode: Sport/Normal/Eco

Not letting the Turbo or Hybrid Battery kick on

Vehicle setup

tires

wheel size/weight

Roof rack/vehicle mods

MISC

Oil

selection

change interval/My 3rd gen Taco taco always achieved 2-3 mpg gain after oil change until about 3k miles

Fuel

octane

quality

I've watched Motor Oil Geek and his breakdown makes since, however he didn't cover all the aspects of moly additives, I also know Molybdenum is an expensive additive for toyota engineers to just simply add for no reason when they could use "off the shelf" Mobile1, Idemitsu or Kirkland Signature.

Mobil 1 synthetic 0-W20 has 70-90ppm of moly additive where Toyota has up to 900ppm

AI Breakdown below (no pun Intended)

Toyota (and many OEM-branded oils) often use higher levels of molybdenum additives—usually in the form of molybdenum dithiocarbamate (MoDTC)—for a few very practical engineering reasons:
1. Reduced friction (better efficiency)
Molybdenum acts as a friction modifier. Under load, it forms a very thin, slippery film on metal surfaces (like cam lobes, piston skirts, and bearings).
That reduces friction → which helps:

Improve fuel economy (important for meeting regulations)

Make engines feel smoother

2. Wear protection at startup
When you start a cold engine, oil hasn’t fully circulated yet. Moly helps protect during this boundary lubrication phase by:

Sticking to metal surfaces

Preventing direct metal-to-metal contact

This is especially important for modern engines with:

Tight tolerances

Start/stop systems

Thin oils like 0W-20

3. Works well with low-viscosity oils
Toyota heavily specifies 0W-16 and 0W-20 oils, which are thinner to reduce drag.
Thinner oil = less natural protection under high load → so molybdenum helps “make up the difference” by adding a protective layer without increasing viscosity.
4. Noise and smoothness
Moly can reduce valvetrain noise and general engine harshness. That’s part of why Toyota engines often feel very smooth and quiet compared to others in the same class.

5. Fuel economy + emissions strategy
Higher moly content helps Toyota hit:

Fuel economy targets

Emissions standards

…without needing heavier oil, which would hurt efficiency.
Why Toyota uses more than some others
Toyota OEM oil is known for relatively high moly content (often ~200–800 ppm depending on formulation), because:

Their engines are designed around low-friction operation

They prioritize long-term durability with thin oils

Their oil specs (like ILSAC GF-6) allow and benefit from friction modifiers

Important note
More moly isn’t always “better” universally:

Too much can compete with other additives (like anti-wear zinc/phosphorus)

The full additive package balance matters more than one element

Toyota’s formulation works because it’s tuned as a system—not just “extra moly dumped in.”

If you want, I can compare Toyota oil’s additive profile vs something like Mobil 1 or Pennzoil—there are some interesting differences that affect wear and MPG

When I picked up MIss Daisy from my purchasing dealer 7/29/24, I went to the parts department and tried to buy Toyota 0W-20 motor oil. The guy at the parts counter told me that they did not stock or sell Toyota branded oils… only Mobile 1..

DubDub · Apr 17, 2026

ultane said:
When I picked up MIss Daisy from my purchasing dealer 7/29/24, I went to the parts department and tried to buy Toyota 0W-20 motor oil. The guy at the parts counter told me that they did not stock or sell Toyota branded oils… only Mobile 1..

Interesting... both my NC and VA dealers have it sitting on the shelf in the parts department. I bought a whole case without question.

ultane · Apr 17, 2026

DubDub said:
Interesting... both my NC and VA dealers have it sitting on the shelf in the parts department. I bought a whole case without question.

I am changing dealers..

AndrewCamarillo · Apr 17, 2026

ultane said:
Welcome to the asylum.

It has been discussed adnauseum on this forum, in many scattered threads. Many have complained.

I get 25-29 regularly when traveling.

93 octane ethanol free.

First Edition roof rack noise generator/air brake deleted.

OEM Michelins.

Eco mode. Not doing 65 or over. Ever.

The Car Care Nut has a video on pulse and glide driving technique.

Etc. etc.

.....driving 65 mph on Southern California freeways will get you an ticket for "impeding traffic"

California Vehicle Code 22400 (CVC 22400) prohibits driving so slowly that it blocks the normal flow of traffic or stopping on a highway, unless necessary for safety or legal compliance. Penalties typically include a $\sim$$238+ fine and one point on the driver's record. This law applies to unreasonably slow speeds and, in some cases, "California stops" that block traffic

.....just kidding too

however, the normal flow of traffic is greater then 65 mph almost anywhere in the cities throughout the country

I just crossed the country from Virginia back to Los Angeles and it would have been a challenge to set the dial at 65 mph

DubDub · Apr 17, 2026

AndrewCamarillo said:
.....driving 65 mph on Southern California freeways will get you an ticket for "impeding traffic"

California Vehicle Code 22400 (CVC 22400) prohibits driving so slowly that it blocks the normal flow of traffic or stopping on a highway, unless necessary for safety or legal compliance. Penalties typically include a $\sim$$238+ fine and one point on the driver's record. This law applies to unreasonably slow speeds and, in some cases, "California stops" that block traffic

.....just kidding too

however, the normal flow of traffic is greater then 65 mph almost anywhere in the cities throughout the country

I just crossed the country from Virginia back to Los Angeles and it would have been a challenge to set the dial at 65 mph

I prescribe to Ultane's speed restrictions and never get better than 23mpg sustained. I think the larger ingredient to his success is the strict adherence to ethanol free fuel and the naked roof. I am getting 23 with the OE rack, big cargo box always mounted above that, air dams removed, and only ethanol free when immediately available to me. I am spoiled in that where I live, the max speed limits within my normal commuting range is 60mph. I just hug the right lanes and show the common courtesy of speeding up in the rare instances where I need to pass.

Having lived in riverside previously, I am aware of Cali's freeway systems, and how speed is your friend. I disagree that it is rivaled by any state other than I-20 through TX. I routinely travel as far north as Indiana and Michigan from NC/VA, as far west as cental TX, and down into the FL panhandle. I very rarely have to exceed 65 for the sake of safety or courtesy. Atlanta is the one place where I feel the need to speed up for my own safety, but outside of that, 65 is the highest that still returns >20mpg in my experience.

Mopper · Apr 17, 2026

Have you really gotten an impeding ticket?? It's not too common although it is possible I guess. From the only law enforcement entity I ever was aware of issuing them (CSP), I had thought they were essentially reserved for fast lane tractor trailer rigs and many officers choose not to write them.

AndrewCamarillo · Apr 17, 2026

Mopper said:
Have you really gotten an impeding ticket?? It's not too common although it is possible I guess. From the only law enforcement entity I ever was aware of issuing them (CSP), I had thought they were essentially reserved for fast lane tractor trailer rigs and many officers choose not to write them.

note, i did include

......just kidding

In all honesty, the flow of traffic is well over 65 mph here in Southern California

Driving cross country in the LC or any other vehicle; I would set the cruise control at 80 mph and just enjoy the ride

DubDub · Apr 17, 2026

AndrewCamarillo said:
note, i did include

......just kidding

In all honesty, the flow of traffic is well over 65 mph here in Southern California

Driving cross country in the LC or any other vehicle; I would set the cruise control at 80 mph and just enjoy the ride

The flow in SoCal is well over 90mph, and that’s a fact haha. I-20 in TX is the same, but it doesn’t have 5-12 lanes in each direction.

ultane · Apr 17, 2026

AndrewCamarillo said:
.....driving 65 mph on Southern California freeways will get you an ticket for "impeding traffic"

California Vehicle Code 22400 (CVC 22400) prohibits driving so slowly that it blocks the normal flow of traffic or stopping on a highway, unless necessary for safety or legal compliance. Penalties typically include a $\sim$$238+ fine and one point on the driver's record. This law applies to unreasonably slow speeds and, in some cases, "California stops" that block traffic

.....just kidding too

however, the normal flow of traffic is greater then 65 mph almost anywhere in the cities throughout the country

I just crossed the country from Virginia back to Los Angeles and it would have been a challenge to set the dial at 65 mph

I think the minimum speed on interstate highways is 40 mph, but recently saw a minimum speed sign that said 45 mph. Every interstate highway that I’ve ever seen has a left lane to pass folks, and a right lane. I traveled in the rightmost lane while visiting recently. What does the California code say that the ‘impeding traffic speed’ is, and how does ‘legal compliance’ figure into the equation? Are you saying that the CHIP is going to write a ticket to a citizen who IS NOT BREAKING THE SPEED LIMIT, when everyone else is?

I’m so glad that I don’t live there. I went there many times on my bikes (avatar) when I lived in Idaho, to see the redwoods, and ride 101 and a 1. I hated traveling in the state a few months ago when I took my GF to see the trees, and was very glad to escape.

ultane · Apr 17, 2026

AndrewCamarillo said:
note, i did include

......just kidding

In all honesty, the flow of traffic is well over 65 mph here in Southern California

Driving cross country in the LC or any other vehicle; I would set the cruise control at 80 mph and just enjoy the ride

Go. For. It.

brandon b · Apr 17, 2026

pizzachef said:
I just bought a 2026 cruiser. I’ve been getting 16-17mpg vs the 21-23 stated.
Anyone getting better milage?
Cheers

I have a '25 with 20" Nitto Ridge grapplers. If lucky i get 20 mph on the road. My 06 4runner, v8 with 380,000 gets 18mpg on the road!! 20 years later, 4 cylinder hybrid turbo ... only 2 mpg more!!! Piss poor.