Lifted LC Making Terrible Susp. Noises?

Well, no measurement from me right now. LC is not in good shape, took a heavy rear impact from a lady in a Yukon consoling her 3yo while approaching stopped traffic.

Yay.
 
Sorry to hear that, hope everyone is ok and Land Cruiser is fixed up soon!
 
Well, no measurement from me right now. LC is not in good shape, took a heavy rear impact from a lady in a Yukon consoling her 3yo while approaching stopped traffic.

Yay.
Hope everyone is okay. LC will be fixed soon.
To keep people crazy close tailgating me, I have this all the time while in town. People seems keeping distance when they see it, especially, in up high position ( with 2โ€ lifted / 35โ€ rubber ) ๐Ÿ˜œ
 

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Well, no measurement from me right now. LC is not in good shape, took a heavy rear impact from a lady in a Yukon consoling her 3yo while approaching stopped traffic.

Yay.
Oh No! Sorry to hear. Especially after you were really getting in dialed in with modifications. But glad everyone is OK and hope you have your LC back soon.
 
To keep people crazy close tailgating me, I have this all the time while in town. People seems keeping distance when they see it, especially, in up high position ( with 2โ€ lifted / 35โ€ rubber ) ๐Ÿ˜œ
Now if someone hits that or you back into something, it will do damage to your rear frame instead of the bumper?
 
Now if someone hits that or you back into something, it will do damage to your rear frame instead of the bumper?
Thinking that wayโ€ฆso
Steel bumpers front and rear bolted to front and rear frame (upgraded to strengthen and protect the vehicle when impacts) will damage the frame ?!
 
It will directly transfer the energy to the frame if contacted. I wouldn't stress about it concerning the vehicle the plastic & styrofoam in the rear and plastic & aluminium in the front are designed for slow speed impact absorption and allot of that is centered around pedestrian protection. Anything above 35 MPH the frame is at risk, the real issue here is more energy is transferred to the vehicle occupants.

The aluminium crash bar up front has steel wings on it where it and the wings mount to the frame that sit about 2" from the frame on the rear side at about 45 degree angle. In a harsh corner impact those will more than likely hit the frame as designed and possibly bend it. Safety regulations and the engineering to meet them aren't designed for vehicle preservation outside of the passenger compartment. Most significant impacts result in a vehicle being totaled because of frame damage and or excessive repair costs, been this way since around the 1990's.

I'd be more worried about potential litigation with steel bumpers front and rear during a collision leading to the loss of life than anything else, but that it still probably a stretch since there are no laws against such modifications that I'm aware of?
 
It will directly transfer the energy to the frame if contacted. I wouldn't stress about it concerning the vehicle the plastic & styrofoam in the rear and plastic & aluminium in the front are designed for slow speed impact absorption and allot of that is centered around pedestrian protection. Anything above 35 MPH the frame is at risk, the real issue here is more energy is transferred to the vehicle occupants.

The aluminium crash bar up front has steel wings on it where it and the wings mount to the frame that sit about 2" from the frame on the rear side at about 45 degree angle. In a harsh corner impact those will more than likely hit the frame as designed and possibly bend it. Safety regulations and the engineering to meet them aren't designed for vehicle preservation outside of the passenger compartment. Most significant impacts result in a vehicle being totaled because of frame damage and or excessive repair costs, been this way since around the 1990's.

I'd be more worried about potential litigation with steel bumpers front and rear during a collision leading to the loss of life than anything else, but that it still probably a stretch since there are no laws against such modifications that I'm aware of?
With this theory, then front steel bumper+bull bar will more โ€œdangerous/damageโ€ to someone to hit a deer / kangaroo ?
My cousins in Perth (Australia ) got 2 total-lost accidents when hit kangaroos at early morning ! Now, his truck equipped with ARB steel bumper.

Just imagine that if one plastic-bumper LC front hit to other steel-bumper LCโ€ฆwhich one will be more damage ? ๐Ÿค” just sharing my thoughts. No need to say this is right, that is wrong ;)
Be cool and please with our decisions
Happy LC to all
 
No worries, I'm not saying it's bad and don't do it. I have a steel front bumper, just beware there are trade offs and by no means the end all be all in ultimate protection in all scenarios. I no longer have aluminium crash bar or steel crash wings and am now more prone to damage in a offset frontal collision, a trade off I accept for the ability to have a light weight steel bumper with winch and lights to add to offroad and recovery capabilities while maintaining an aesthetic I like and think contributes to LC250 appearance and styling.

In the case of a animal impact with steel bumper the animal is absorbing almost all the shock so steel is great protection for animal strikes.

Plastic to steel, the plastic gets destroyed and if it crash absorption continues both vehicles wind up with steel to steel and harsh transfer of energy to the occupants and frames.

Another trade off I have to accept if I were to rear end someone now I'm going to cause more damage to there vehicle that my insurance will be covering and I would likely pay for in increased premiums.
 
Newb questsion here - what is a diff drop...
By no means the definitive answer, but quick Google result HERE

Essentially a lowering of the differential to help reduce CV angle and stress.

direct message me if you have questions, if you donโ€™t know what CV, IFS, etc means. Happy to explain or direct you to a good resource to read.

Google is helpful too ๐Ÿ˜‰
 
Diff drop lowers the front differential on a IFS (Independent Front Suspension) vehicle when lifting to restore OEM CV axles angles back to within an acceptable range to prevent premature CV joint and or boot failure.

It will also change Pinion angle (Exit of the differential where the drive shaft connects) and lower the amount of fluid that wants to stay inside the diff when changing fluid depending upon design of the fill hole location both of which can be bad, but I measured about 1 degree difference with the diff drop so not really a concern on the LC250 front diff and the fill hole is on the side vice front so neither are a concern.

If the angle is too much and fluid is not able to reach the pinion bearing the bearing won't last long and the angle may also cause front drive shaft vibration and or u-joint binding.

On a solid axle the pinion angle also affects alignment in regards to caster angle up front and the only method to correct it is a cut and turn (Complex and required for coil sprung solid axle vehicles) or caster shims on a leaf spring setup, point being all types trade pinion angle to correct suspension geometry.
 
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I just had my local shop install my MT64 2118K kit and I'm getting a light metallic clunking/twang sound over bumps, expansion joints on bridges, etc. Car rides and handles great, really hoping it's not a blown shock on a brand new kit like the OP.

Only have about 200km on it so I'll wait til they do the 500k retorque and assess, what a pain in the ass.

edit: I also did the dobinson diff drop, not sure if that could cause any noises.
 
I just had my local shop install my MT64 2118K kit and I'm getting a light metallic clunking/twang sound over bumps, expansion joints on bridges, etc. Car rides and handles great, really hoping it's not a blown shock on a brand new kit like the OP.

Only have about 200km on it so I'll wait til they do the 500k retorque and assess, what a pain in the ass.

edit: I also did the dobinson diff drop, not sure if that could cause any noises.
Just curious - can you identify where the clunking sound is coming from? Rear or front or all over?
 
Just curious - can you identify where the clunking sound is coming from? Rear or front or all over?
Sounds like all over, I'm leaning towards something to the swaybars but who knows - gonna head to the shop tomorrow morning and have them take a look on the hoist.
 
Sounds like all over, I'm leaning towards something to the swaybars but who knows - gonna head to the shop tomorrow morning and have them take a look on the hoist.
Have you tried rocking the cruiser back and forth? I've found several issues over the years (suspension related) doing this. Some great advice on here already.
 
I tried that today but I canโ€™t get enough weight to replicate it unfortunately
Check the break hose on the rear axle? You need to disconnect a few of the mounts and i believe i read where someone had a similar sound after one of those mounts weren't reconnected, clanking agaist the chassis.
 
Check the break hose on the rear axle? You need to disconnect a few of the mounts and i believe i read where someone had a similar sound after one of those mounts weren't reconnected, clanking agaist the chassis.
Yeah that was my first guess as clearance looked pretty tight, it was actually close enough that (I think) it could make contact with some suspension movement so I slightly pushed it out a little further yesterday but the sound was still there.

Will leave it to the pros in a couple hours!
 
I just had my local shop install my MT64 2118K kit and I'm getting a light metallic clunking/twang sound over bumps, expansion joints on bridges, etc. Car rides and handles great, really hoping it's not a blown shock on a brand new kit like the OP.

Only have about 200km on it so I'll wait til they do the 500k retorque and assess, what a pain in the ass.

edit: I also did the dobinson diff drop, not sure if that could cause any noises.
If the shop that installed the kit cannot find anything, i.e. the sway bar end links are tight etc., etc., I'm going to bet $5 on one of the MT64 strut top spherical bearings. I originally had the MT64's and slowly within a few weeks started hearing what sounded like loose suspension parts; not necessarily heavy duty but not super light duty sounds. I finally took the truck off road here in the NW, really, really, rough hard-packed forest service roads, and it got way worse.

ARB said they would definitely honor their warranty if I could prove it was their issue. Took it to my local dealer and a very invested master tech put the chassis ears on it and was able to locate a front strut-top spherical bearing that was bad.
 
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