Lifted LC Making Terrible Susp. Noises?

[WeGo250]

Did you check the front shocks top bolt torque not the three strut top plates but the center one?

What UCAs do you have installed?

I’ve also never seen frame brackets for endlink mounting, I’d check those for possible contact with the sway bar.

Check tie rod end links, and all the ball joints (UCA and LCA) on the front for proper torque, a loose ball joint will make quite the rattle.

Can you produce any sounds buy standing in the doors and bouncing when parked?

Really need to isolate to front or rear and or left and right.

Check anything for evidence of rubbing or contact.

Front coils aren’t binding and or loose, what about locking/adjuster rings?

Who did the install? I’d ask what they all touched?

Maybe a bumpy grass field would help isolate the noise?

Some have reported rattles from diff drop as one of the bolts can be under sized for the sleeve it goes through.

Check the brake backing plates maybe one got bent slightly and is rattling and hitting the disc now?

LCA to knuckle bolts torqued?

Aligned afterwards and good numbers?

Rubber or Poly UCA bushings? Poly tend to be rougher ride and produce noise allot of times.

If rubber UCA bushings were these torqued under vehicle weight? If not torqued with vehicle weight it can cause instant failure of the bushings which would cause a rattle.

Kinda a crap shoot currently, good luck.

Did you check the front shocks top bolt torque not the three strut top plates but the center one? I did not specifically check, but when I originally installed the kit I attempted to remove rather than use a spring compressor and they are a single large allen bolt that was beyond tight!

What UCAs do you have installed? Old Man Emu

I’ve also never seen frame brackets for endlink mounting, I’d check those for possible contact with the sway bar. The rig in the rear has brackets bolted to the frame, the OME kit comes with kits that move that frame mounting point lower to get the sway bar back into correct position. I've loosened these and got them as tight to the frame as possible and there appeared to be no wear marking underneath them as if they had been shifting/moving at all.

Check tie rod end links, and all the ball joints (UCA and LCA) on the front for proper torque, a loose ball joint will make quite the rattle. Considering going back to the dealer and asking them to check everything loosened to perform alignment.

Can you produce any sounds buy standing in the doors and bouncing when parked? No, suspension is just a bit to stiff to be able to recreate a jarring motion.

Really need to isolate to front or rear and or left and right. The baseline standard clicking/clacking noise is definitely left/driver rear.

Check anything for evidence of rubbing or contact. None found

Front coils aren’t binding and or loose, what about locking/adjuster rings? The OME kit uses grooves cut into the outer lower shock body and a snap ring that fits into these. then the lower spring perch itself is conical shaped on the inside and it all wedges together.

Who did the install? I’d ask what they all touched? I did, have done plenty of suspension work on vehicles, used to run SCCA TT and worked on my own track specific vehicles. The only thing I don;t know about and is unknown is what would be loosened to align the vehicle.

Maybe a bumpy grass field would help isolate the noise? I wish I had one....

Some have reported rattles from diff drop as one of the bolts can be under sized for the sleeve it goes through. I haven't heard that rattle yet, worked with Icon and they assured me the undersize bolt is fine as long as everything is torqued, might take that back out??

Check the brake backing plates maybe one got bent slightly and is rattling and hitting the disc now? Nothing feels loose and caliper backing plats sound "tinny", this is more heavy duty than that......

LCA to knuckle bolts torqued? Not checked......

Aligned afterwards and good numbers? Aligned extremely well.......

Rubber or Poly UCA bushings? Poly tend to be rougher ride and produce noise allot of times. Poly and I only get really heavy duty banging type noises under really rough FS road type conditions.

 

[jbtaco2002]

do the rear shocks have the plastic shaft protectors? and if so, did they come loose?

 

[Onyx]

3 months into my OME MT64s on my LC, I have not experience the noise you mentioned. The only thing I haven't corrected is the nose-high looking stance (even though the whole thing is by definition leveled at 0 degree). I believe I have exactly the same set up as yours. Just the straight kit from OME. I did not change out the springs in the rear. Or change the spring load rating. OME UCA as well. Only difference is I had it installed by a local shop.

Keep us updated on your progress please.

 

[WeGo250]

do the rear shocks have the plastic shaft protectors? and if so, did they come loose?

They do, nice and tight, and verified that there is only one part for LH and RH

 

[WeGo250]

3 months into my OME MT64s on my LC, I have not experience the noise you mentioned. The only thing I haven't corrected is the nose-high looking stance (even though the whole thing is by definition leveled at 0 degree). I believe I have exactly the same set up as yours. Just the straight kit from OME. I did not change out the springs in the rear. Or change the spring load rating. OME UCA as well. Only difference is I had it installed by a local shop.

Keep us updated on your progress please.

Hey there, I swapped out the rear springs from OEM to the OME +2" 00lb ones in the kit. Are you saying you have the factory rear springs installed?

 

[Mtn40]

Considering going back to the dealer and asking them to check everything loosened to perform alignment.

The only things that should be touched with the alignment would be the LCA bolts where the cam adjusters are and the tie rod adjustments. There's no alignment adjustment in the rear, so hopefully they didn't mess with anything in the back.

The baseline standard clicking/clacking noise is definitely left/driver rear.

That's a tough one. The panhard rod mount on the frame end? The suggestion above to check the shock guard is a good one, but that seems like it would sound different.

Can you flex your truck both directions and climb under and see if anything looks out of place or is touching at the extremes of travel? Maybe that would give you some new idea to look at.

 

[Mtn40]

Another idea, maybe a bad rear shock? Swap rear shocks left to right? See if the noise moves. Or even take off the driver rear shock and drive around the block to see if the sound goes away?

 

[jbtaco2002]

I know you are focused on the rear suspension and noise potentially coming from there, but this is one thing I found was making noise on the front of mine.

I tucked this seemingly worthless piece of plastic on the other side of the cambolt and it reduced some of the noises I was hearing off-roading in the front.

I thought about taking it off completely but I'm sure it's there to prevent dirt and debris from getting into that area

 

[WeGo250]

I know you are focused on the rear suspension and noise potentially coming from there, but this is one thing I found was making noise on the front of mine.

I tucked this seemingly worthless piece of plastic on the other side of the cambolt and it reduced some of the noises I was hearing off-roading in the front.

I thought about taking it off completely but I'm sure it's there to prevent dirt and debris from getting into that area

HaHa! I have removed those things. I can;t believe Toyota's engineers thought how loose they are is acceptable to sit there flapping around

 

[WeGo250]

Another idea, maybe a bad rear shock? Swap rear shocks left to right? See if the noise moves. Or even take off the driver rear shock and drive around the block to see if the sound goes away?

With the heavy duty clunking under really rough conditions coming from the front and this noise in the rear, although ARB/OME advertise this kit as single PN's for both LH and RH, I think my next step is to swap left and right, front and rear. After that it's paying an hourly rate at a 4X4 shop that sees suspension all day long to see what they can find.

 

[Mtn40]

I know you are focused on the rear suspension and noise potentially coming from there, but this is one thing I found was making noise on the front of mine.

I tucked this seemingly worthless piece of plastic on the other side of the cambolt and it reduced some of the noises I was hearing off-roading in the front.

I thought about taking it off completely but I'm sure it's there to prevent dirt and debris from getting into that area

I almost removed those also, but I too like that they keep some splashing out and I think they are useful.
Here's how I fixed mine. Drill a hole where the arrow is, put a zip tie through that hole and the one in the adjoining piece, now it's solid and no more flopping around.

 

[Bad1975]

Noise present post lift and pre alignment?

I'd disconnect rear sway bar links and rotate the bar down a little by hand to rule that out and drive it around.

Also your panhard bar looks to be beyond horizontal in the wrong direction (higher on passenger side), do you have the Dr. KDSS bracket installed? Adjustable panhard or stock?

Just saw your only just down the road from me, you could stop by if your up for it and do a side by side comparison and look things over if you wanted? I'm just outside of Granite Falls.

 

[WeGo250]

Noise present post lift and pre alignment?

I'd disconnect rear sway bar links and rotate the bar down a little by hand to rule that out and drive it around.

Also your panhard bar looks to be beyond horizontal in the wrong direction (higher on passenger side), do you have the Dr. KDSS bracket installed? Adjustable panhard or stock?

Just say your only just down the road from me, you could stop by if your up for it and do a side by side comparison and look things over if you wanted? I'm just outside of Granite Falls.

Noise present post lift and pre alignment? Honestly I don't remember at this point........

I'd disconnect rear sway bar links and rotate the bar down a little by hand to rule that out and drive it around. Great idea, didn't think of that!

Also your panhard bar looks to be beyond horizontal in the wrong direction (higher on passenger side), do you have the Dr. KDSS bracket installed? Adjustable panhard or stock? Stock panhard bar, not sure how/what you're seeing in photos re being higher on one side? No Dr KDSS bracket, not sure what that does??

Would love to stop buy, I'm at a loss with this thing!

 

[Bad1975]

DM me your number and we will set something up.

 

[WeGo250]

Noise present post lift and pre alignment? Honestly I don't remember at this point........

I'd disconnect rear sway bar links and rotate the bar down a little by hand to rule that out and drive it around. Great idea, didn't think of that!

Also your panhard bar looks to be beyond horizontal in the wrong direction (higher on passenger side), do you have the Dr. KDSS bracket installed? Adjustable panhard or stock? Stock panhard bar, not sure how/what you're seeing in photos re being higher on one side? No Dr KDSS bracket, not sure what that does??

Would love to stop buy, I'm at a loss with this thing!

Just ordered the Dr KDSS bracket.

 

[jbtaco2002]

when i installed my BP-51, i didn't install the 2" lift springs that came with the kit, i had the Westcott spacer back there and left it for now. no rear suspension noise on mine, but with this group of people brainstorming, i'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it soon!

i also ordered the DrKDSS bracket a while back, though not installed yet.

 

[Bad1975]

I wouldn’t recommend the Dr. KDSS bracket. From my measurements either the short or long bracket will contact the frame. They have a warning for the potential in their documentation.

I’d do a full compression test in the rear and take clearance measurements to the frame from the center of the OEM bolt location on the axle and then see when moving the bar up with the bracket if you’ll have clearance before purchasing this. I’d want at least a 1/2” clearance at full compression.

Mine shows 6-1/4” (top of panhard bushing area to frame crossmember.

Bump stop is 3-3/4” and it will compress at least a 1/4” on hard bottom out so call it 4”.

That leaves 2-1/4” clearance before the bracket.

I don’t have bracket dimensions but it appears from pictures of installs the shorty version moves the bar up 2” or more? To close for comfort for me and I also think the panhard may contact the spare tire retainer at the back of the stowage area at that raised height as well?

They should have done an extended bracket on the frame side to mitigate potential clearance issues.

My adjustable bar sits 2” side to side off horizontal with no limitations to full articulation (extended travel) and no noticeable effects to on road handling and will likely remain that way.

 

[WeGo250]

I wouldn’t recommend the Dr. KDSS bracket. From my measurements either the short or long bracket will contact the frame. They have a warning for the potential in their documentation.

I’d do a full compression test in the rear and take clearance measurements to the frame from the center of the OEM bolt location on the axle and then see when moving the bar up with the bracket if you’ll have clearance before purchasing this. I’d want at least a 1/2” clearance at full compression.

Mine shows 6-1/4” (top of panhard bushing area to frame crossmember.

Bump stop is 3-3/4” and it will compress at least a 1/4” on hard bottom out so call it 4”.

That leaves 2-1/4” clearance before the bracket.

I don’t have bracket dimensions but it appears from pictures of installs the shorty version moves the bar up 2” or more? To close for comfort for me and I also think the panhard may contact the spare tire retainer at the back of the stowage area at that raised height as well?

They should have done an extended bracket on the frame side to mitigate potential clearance issues.

My adjustable bar sits 2” side to side off horizontal with no limitations to full articulation (extended travel) and no noticeable effects to on road handling and will likely remain that way.

All great info! I also ordered King sway bar end links. Not in attempt to rectify what ever's currently loose etc. and don't know if they're "needed" but the factory end links sure look pretty skinny.

I'd love to go with new track & panhard etc bars back there, not sure what to think about ICON, and the Total Chaos ones only come as a full $2K set......

 

[Onyx]

Hey there, I swapped out the rear springs from OEM to the OME +2" 00lb ones in the kit. Are you saying you have the factory rear springs installed?

Yes. Factory rear springs. Hence it's looking a tad bit nose high.

 

[Bedawson]

Dang, I've felt your pain. suspension issues can be really hard to pinpoint.
Had this happen to me on my tacoma, Installed Fox 2.0's and started hearing a deep, quick "Thunk" going over pot holes and random imperfections in the road. I could pin point where the noise was coming from (front right in my application) but thats about it. Ended up swapping back to stock and the issue went away. Warranty claim to Fox and it was fixed in about a week.