It's pretty simple, if I remember correctly there is one bolt.
Attached is what I've pieced together, not all inclusive, but might help.
Interior Trim Removal
- Thread starter BigMF
- Start date
Attached is what I've pieced together, not all inclusive, but might help.
Center Console Lid:
To separate the inner and outer shells only requires a phillips head screwdriver.
1 - Use a plastic trim tool, insert it at the seam of the rear AC control panel and the bottom Shoe. (what I call the "shoe"). Once it pops, grasp the panel on each side of the AC panel and give it a good yank straight rearward. It'll pop right off.
2 - Use a #2 phillips screwdriver and remove the six mounting screws.
Full disclosure...... steps 1 & 2 may not be required, but that's how I did it.
3 - Open the lid and use the trim tool, insert it in the small gap on the rounded corner, between the top cover and the lower inner cover and twist the tool to start the separation. Insert a second trim tool and twist, working your way down the panel.......... repeat for the other edge.
To separate the inner and outer shells only requires a phillips head screwdriver.
1 - Use a plastic trim tool, insert it at the seam of the rear AC control panel and the bottom Shoe. (what I call the "shoe"). Once it pops, grasp the panel on each side of the AC panel and give it a good yank straight rearward. It'll pop right off.
2 - Use a #2 phillips screwdriver and remove the six mounting screws.
Full disclosure...... steps 1 & 2 may not be required, but that's how I did it.
3 - Open the lid and use the trim tool, insert it in the small gap on the rounded corner, between the top cover and the lower inner cover and twist the tool to start the separation. Insert a second trim tool and twist, working your way down the panel.......... repeat for the other edge.
Interesting that there's not some insulation in there.Center Console Lid:
To separate the inner and outer shells only requires a phillips head screwdriver.
1 - Use a plastic trim tool, insert it at the seam of the rear AC control panel and the bottom Shoe. (what I call the "shoe"). Once it pops, grasp the panel on each side of the AC panel and give it a good yank straight rearward. It'll pop right off.
2 - Use a #2 phillips screwdriver and remove the six mounting screws.
Full disclosure...... steps 1 & 2 may not be required, but that's how I did it.
3 - Open the lid and use the trim tool, insert it in the small gap on the rounded corner, between the top cover and the lower inner cover and twist the tool to start the separation. Insert a second trim tool and twist, working your way down the panel.......... repeat for the other edge.
Or is that the white closed cell foam in the first pic that you removed for the later pics?
So that's a full day job.......LOL I didn't drop it, but explored the possibility when I ran my WeBoost coax. From what I could determine, you have to remove every interior panel. Way too much work for me to route one cable.
Depending on where you decide to place the gland, there is a small amount of room at the windshield to route a wire bundle. When I ran the coax cable, I removed the overhead console, Dvr's side visor, Dvr's top door frame trim panel and the L/H cargo large trim panel and fished the coax down the "B" pillar, under the Dvr's side rear door sill plate. There's no need to completely remove the L/H cargo trim panel as there is plenty of room to fish wires to the 12v battery, just remove the retractable cargo cover trim piece and 10mm bolt and L/H rear cargo cup holder and pop the forward edge (by the rear door and Hybrid vent) and run the fish tape from the door to the cup holder etc......... plenty of room.
If it were me, I'd plastic bold the wires along the seam (approx 4") and down the seam at the top of the rear hatch opening top corner (approx 3") and run the wires through the L/H hatch boot. Or place the gland at the back Dvr's roof corner, which would allow you to fish the bundle down the "D" pillar.
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That's the Styrofoam surrounding the cool box, pic was from the rear.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #68
Thanks, I don't think I'd need to drop the whole liner, just enough to pull it back and get to the roof in the front corner. However, I might run it the long way like you suggest. I've already got my WeBoost cable running out of that same boot you used.
I ran the WeBoost coax in the Pass side boot and the solar charger cable in the Dvr's side boot.
I purchased some Camry door boots from e-bay (approx 1" in Dia) and if I decide to mount some roof lights, I might drill a hole in the hatch area (similar to the existing two) and mount one end of the boot there, run all the wires coax etc.... through the boot and silicone the open end, similar to a gland but flexible and would hold 1" of wires.......LOL .
(edit) They were off a Celica not a Camry
This is what I need! Is there a more detailed post on this for a newbie to trim removal?
Not that I'm aware of. To be honest it's really not needed, on any trim panel, once you get started ......... what you really need to know, is what fasteners are securing the trim panel and where they are located. Most of the trim panels in the LC are secured with plastic christmas tree fasteners and 1 or 2 actual screws/bolts.
My advice for successful removal and reinstallation is a cell phone for videos or pictures of the removal. Some plastic trim removal tools, a christmas tree fastener removal tool. Once you remove any trim panel with Xmas tree fasteners, scan the "vehicle side" mounting surface for any Xmas fasteners that didn't come off with the trim panel, use a proper tool, remove them and reinstall them on the trim panel. If you do this now vs "I'll remember where that goes" , it will save a lot of frustration later........... Just say'in........ LOL
Rear Door Card Removal:
This isn’t a hard job, but it is tricky if you’ve never done it before…….
Remove the trim panel behind the interior door handle. Insert your favorite trim tool at the rear of the trim panel, just in front of the handle’s pivot point and pry it off. Remove the phillips screw and set aside.
Remove the door pull trim panel, using a steel trim tool (hook tool, butter knife, small bent screw driver etc…..) insert the tool at the top center of the trim panel and wedge it outwards until you can insert a larger plastic trim tool in the gap. Twist the plastic trim tool to pry it outwards to pop off the panel. (Note: there are plastic hooks at the lower edge of the panel that will prevent you from using the bottom edge). Remove the two phillips screws and set aside.
I start on the lower, forward edge of the door panel and insert a large plastic trim tool, twist it to pop off/out the first of many plastic Christmas tree fasteners. I work up the forward edge, then around the bottom then the rear edge. Grasping the door panel on the fwd and rear edges, I give it a tug from the bottom pulling outwards to ensure the Xmas tree fasteners have disengaged. Rocking the entire panel fwd and backwards to disengage the window seal (this is one of the tricky parts). Once the panel is freed, reach inside and disconnect the Blue wire connector and the Black connector. If you have curtesy lights you will also have to remove the small white connector at the bottom of the door. Lay the panel aside and remove from the door any Xmas fasteners that didn’t come off with the door (this is another tricky part to remove them without damaging them) I use this tool
To reinstall the panel you need to remove the rear most weather stripping from the door panel or you will never get the panel back on right! To do this you depress the small white locking tab (like a connector locking tab). Once you have it removed from the panel, reinstall it on the metal door, making sure to tuck/fit it under the weather stripping.
Reinstall the Blue and Black wire connectors (don’t worry about the curtesy light connector, just poke the wire through the opening in the panel). Slip the door handle thru the opening and insert the fwd tip into the keeper, the press the cable end into place. Align the top of the panel with the window weather stripping and the top Xmas tree fasteners and pop into place. Reinstall the screws and trim panels. Plug in the curtsey light connector and snap into place.
This isn’t a hard job, but it is tricky if you’ve never done it before…….
Remove the trim panel behind the interior door handle. Insert your favorite trim tool at the rear of the trim panel, just in front of the handle’s pivot point and pry it off. Remove the phillips screw and set aside.
Remove the door pull trim panel, using a steel trim tool (hook tool, butter knife, small bent screw driver etc…..) insert the tool at the top center of the trim panel and wedge it outwards until you can insert a larger plastic trim tool in the gap. Twist the plastic trim tool to pry it outwards to pop off the panel. (Note: there are plastic hooks at the lower edge of the panel that will prevent you from using the bottom edge). Remove the two phillips screws and set aside.
I start on the lower, forward edge of the door panel and insert a large plastic trim tool, twist it to pop off/out the first of many plastic Christmas tree fasteners. I work up the forward edge, then around the bottom then the rear edge. Grasping the door panel on the fwd and rear edges, I give it a tug from the bottom pulling outwards to ensure the Xmas tree fasteners have disengaged. Rocking the entire panel fwd and backwards to disengage the window seal (this is one of the tricky parts). Once the panel is freed, reach inside and disconnect the Blue wire connector and the Black connector. If you have curtesy lights you will also have to remove the small white connector at the bottom of the door. Lay the panel aside and remove from the door any Xmas fasteners that didn’t come off with the door (this is another tricky part to remove them without damaging them) I use this tool
To reinstall the panel you need to remove the rear most weather stripping from the door panel or you will never get the panel back on right! To do this you depress the small white locking tab (like a connector locking tab). Once you have it removed from the panel, reinstall it on the metal door, making sure to tuck/fit it under the weather stripping.
Reinstall the Blue and Black wire connectors (don’t worry about the curtesy light connector, just poke the wire through the opening in the panel). Slip the door handle thru the opening and insert the fwd tip into the keeper, the press the cable end into place. Align the top of the panel with the window weather stripping and the top Xmas tree fasteners and pop into place. Reinstall the screws and trim panels. Plug in the curtsey light connector and snap into place.
I wish I could do stuff like you…
Just bought a black box to turn off the RSA LDA etc and need to get behind the instrument cluster, the only vid I have found is for the media unit which means taking the drive mode off to access behind the start stop panel, remove a 10mm, take the dash pad off full width to then get to the factory media unit.
Is there a way to just unbolt the instrument cluster to tilt forward or do you need to take everything off to get the external trim free (which looks like it is one piece and covers both?) to reach the screws etc which hold it in place?
Any ideas or pics would be great.
Cheers
Is there a way to just unbolt the instrument cluster to tilt forward or do you need to take everything off to get the external trim free (which looks like it is one piece and covers both?) to reach the screws etc which hold it in place?
Any ideas or pics would be great.
Cheers
Did you get around installing it? How hard was it?
Install isn't too bad for a competant DIYer but reasonably involved there si a youtube vid online for changing the stereo which you basically follow. You do however have to take alot off to get to the instrument cluster. Hving done it once and I'll be doing it again as the origional boxes had a bug and I'm getting a free repaklcement I'd say it will take circa 5-10mins.. so not bad.
I do this for a living, sort of, and I don't ever drop the headliner more than necessary. You can use fish tape and capture most of the wiring by dropping down a single side, then go down through the B-pillar, then under your door sill scuff plate, then to the firewall or engine bay. Newer vehicles have airbags, 16-18g sensor wiring, HVAC duct work, and all sorts of chaos above the headliner you don't want to screw around with. They were never designed to be dropped after installation.
While I haven't seen many gaskets or O-rings leak, I've seen enough that you may be replacing a headliner if that gland ever fails during a rainstorm or snow melt (consider I live in a very dry state as well), and it won't be covered under any warranty. The odds of a leak are near zero if you don't drill and/or have a sunroof. This happens to OEM vehicles that use premium gaskets over time with any type of overhead lighting or through the third-brake light.
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I would run this ^ down the front window channel, under the cowl, directly into the engine bay and you can easily route the wiring into the firewall from there on the driver side. Zero chance of a leak and if you ever get tired of having overhead lighting, it's easily removable.
While every vehicle is different and I do this at work on many different makes and models, most of the time without concern, I would never drill into my own roof. There are other options available that don't require drilling as listed above.
Everyone has their own risk tolerance, and not everyone has my level of concern over this. Just providing my input! 1985 Ford F250, no problem, 2026 Land Cruiser 250, no way in H--- I'd do it.
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I thought I'd drop these in here so people can see what it looks like stripped down. I am using them to come up with a game plan for my sound deadening project.
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