High Offset Wheels (>=than 40mm)
- Thread starter the usarian
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Thank you @nartmot . It's been a pleasure speaking with you about your GX550 as well.
I don't want to take this too far off topic since this is a Landcruiser forum, but the GX550 will require the wheels to be 17x8.0" ET35, 17x8.5" ET40, or one of the 17x9" options. The GX550, LX600, Sequoia and Tundra have larger brakes compared with the Landcruiser 250, 4Runner and Tacoma. In order to get the brake clearance for your GX550 the offset will need to be slightly lower than what we can offer for the 4Runner/Landcruiser/Tacoma. With that said, 17x8.5" ET40 is a great fit for the GX550 since the GX550 has slightly wider fenders.
The GX and LX are Land Cruisers. Certainly on-topic for this forum!
ET40 sound great to me but I would settle for ET35. I just want a 17" wheel that gets me in the ballpark for 35" tires without any major modifications. I will trim and mold plastic all day long if I have to.
Having said that, I do have some +20 offset Volk ZE40Xs arriving in a couple months and I am hoping I can get by with some skinny 35's, but my experience has been soured by things like them not being drilled for ET lugs (aftermarket, longer wheel studs required), the need for hub-centric rings, and the center caps not fitting with hub-centric rings. Oh yeah, and who knows what the tariff situation will be when they finally ship? Volk/Rays make a strong wheel but boy are they behind the times. 10/10 would not bang again.
Your solution seems plug and play, which is why this new product lineup is so damn refreshing and exciting. I would also prefer to support an American company.
Agreed!However the brakes are definitely different between the LC250 and the GX550, so from my perspective it requires addressing the difference in the offsets required to fit the brakes. I wanted to do that without muddying the waters too much by taking the discussion really far off topic. I can save that post for a GX550 specific forum thread to prevent confusion.
Long story short - the GX550 requires slightly lower offsets than the Landcruiser 250, because the GX550 has larger brakes than the Landcruiser 250.
Makes sense. I would encourage you to start that thread on this forum as well, as there are a huge number of Land Cruisers owners here with an L on the grill!
However the brakes are definitely different between the LC250 and the GX550, so from my perspective it requires addressing the difference in the offsets required to fit the brakes. I wanted to do that without muddying the waters too much by taking the discussion really far off topic. I can save that post for a GX550 specific forum thread to prevent confusion.
Long story short - the GX550 requires slightly lower offsets than the Landcruiser 250, because the GX550 has larger brakes than the Landcruiser 250.
Thank you. As soon as we have the samples ready (likely in 3-4 months), I will make a post with some test fit images, specs, etc. and to engage both the Landcruiser 250 and GX550 owners. @nartmot was kind enough to message me that we could use his GX550 for test fitting and images, so that will be a great help.
Icon had a video where they had rubbing at full flex on +25 wheels but I don't recall the tire size. In normal use it may not be an issue, offroad YMMV.
If the overall tire diameter doesn't exceed 33", then wheel offsets in the high teens / low 20's generally won't cause an issue. The wheels will stick out past the edge of the fender, but with a 285/70R17 or 285/65R18 there shouldn't be any rubbing even with +18mm ~ +25mm offsets and 8.0" ~ 9.0" rim widths.
If the tire diameter is taller than 33", then higher wheel offsets will be required to avoid rubbing.
This is our Six Shooter flow formed (high offset version). This Sequoia shown below has 17x9" +25mm offset, but we can also manufacture this wheel in 17x8.5" with an offset up to +34mm.
Looks amazing
These are not design issues with Rays or other aftermarket wheels, plenty of us are running them without hub rings and with their/other JDM acorn style lugs on our LCs with no issues. Or, maybe Rays does not know much about about engineering and building wheels in Japan over the last 50+ years since they take such "shortcuts" that the Chinese built wheels do not.
I don't mean to be "that guy," but just because you are running wheels with oversized hub-bore on a hubcentric vehicle doesn't mean they are fine.
A hub-centric vehicle is designed for the weight of the vehicle to rest on the hub of the wheel; not the lugs. The lugs are ostensibly just there to hold the wheel on the hub. When using an oversized bore, the lugs could be plenty to support the weight of the vehicle in all situations. They probably are. But that's not what they were designed to do.
It's not Rays' or Volks' fault. There's nothing wrong with the wheels at all. Rays makes some of the best wheels out there. They designed a wheel for multiple applications and the measurements are public before you buy.
But that doesn't make it the best wheel for a 250.
A hub-centric vehicle is designed for the weight of the vehicle to rest on the hub of the wheel; not the lugs. The lugs are ostensibly just there to hold the wheel on the hub. When using an oversized bore, the lugs could be plenty to support the weight of the vehicle in all situations. They probably are. But that's not what they were designed to do.
It's not Rays' or Volks' fault. There's nothing wrong with the wheels at all. Rays makes some of the best wheels out there. They designed a wheel for multiple applications and the measurements are public before you buy.
But that doesn't make it the best wheel for a 250.
Trying to follow this thread but have no idea what hub-bore and hubcentric mean. I have been looking at the wheel pasted below and it is a Rays wheel and says designed for our vehicle. Trying to obtain exact weight but I think it's in the low 20lb range with +44 offset.
But 8.5J? Bore 112mm? Will this be OK on our LC250 or are there issues based upon what is discussed above?
But 8.5J? Bore 112mm? Will this be OK on our LC250 or are there issues based upon what is discussed above?
Rays A-LAP-07X 2324 LIMITED WHEELS
| 10148854416PH | Matte Translucent Black (PH) | S (32mm) | 18" | 8.5J | 6H-139.7 | +44 | F0 | 112mm |
You are a dangerous combination of confident and incorrect, and quite frankly coming across as kind of rude. I agree with @ryanjl in that just because you are currently doing it without issue doesn't mean its right. In addition to what he said, I will add that if you are running the stock studs, you are probably only getting about 4-5 turns of thread engagement, which is definitely not enough.
Further, I never said it was a design issue; I said they are behind the times in terms of innovation. Drilling them for ET lugs for example would eliminate all the extra work I have to do to install extended studs.
A wheel's hub bore (also referred to as center bore) is the hole (circle) in the center of the wheel that fits over the vehicle's hub.
This is an image that I grabbed off the internet (credit to Summit Racing) which illustrates the basic parts of a wheel in very simplified terms:
When we refer to hub centric, what we mean is that the center bore of the wheel has a diameter that matches the diameter of the vehicle's. This allows the wheel to sit centered on the vehicle's hub.
Your vehicle's hub looks something like this (this is actually a picture I took of a 2022+ Tundra, but the Landcruiser is very similar):
This is an example of a hub centric center bore from of one of our wheels:
In the data that you attached from RAYS, the wheel specs show that it is an 18x8.5" wheel with a 6x139.7mm bolt pattern, +44mm offset and a 112mm diameter hub.
Since the Landcruiser 250 hubs are 95.1mm (+/-) in diameter, the 112mm diameter center bore of the Rays wheels will not be centered on your hub. In order to center the wheels you will need 112mm to 95mm hub centric rings. These rings fit inside the wheel's center bore and around your vehicle's hubs. You can also install the wheels without the use of rings, but you might experience some vibrations if the wheels aren't centered on the hub.
One other concern that I would have with those particular Rays A-LAP 07X wheels would be the load rating. Rays lists a 2,105lbs load rating:
| 18x8.5J | F 0 | S | 44 | 6 | 139.7 | 112 | 29-15 | PH | ¥84,000 | 2,105 | 10218854416PH |
|---|
Source: 07X 2324 LIMITED EDITION｜RAYS｜Innovative High-Performance Wheels
The Landcruiser 250 is pretty heavy vehicle with a rear GAWR (gross axle weight rating) of 4,100lbs.
While a wheel with a 2,105lbs load rating is technically sufficient for the LC250 (2,105lbs x 2 wheels = 4,210lbs per axle), it is cutting it pretty close. It's been years since I sold Rays wheels (I used to be one of their dealers), but if I recall Rays uses a pretty stringent in house testing standard. Rays states that their JWL-R standard is significantly tougher than JWL-T, so you're probably OK.
Nevertheless, I would check with Rays, Mackin Industries (Rays official USA distributor) or your preferred vendor to find out the maximum recommended tire size for use with the wheels. If you're planning to install larger diameter tires, i.e. 34" or 35", then the increase in tire diameter might reduce the load rating of the wheels. Since it's not super common for people in Japan to run 35" tires on Toyotas, it would be best to ask if 35" diameter tires are OK for use with the wheels. You also would need to be mindful of your payload (passengers + cargo) so that you don't overload your Landcruiser. It's better to be safe than sorry.
We're building our wheels with 2,500lbs load ratings (5,000lbs per axle) for use with a maximum 37" tire diameter. More than likely no one is going to install 37" diameter tires on a Landcruiser 250, but we also want Sequoia and Tundra owners to be able to use our wheels, and some of those guys like to install 37's. Our wheels are also tested to the SAE J2530 standard. SAE J2530 is tougher than the JWL-T (Japanese government) test standard.
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Thank you @DustinFNW for the incredible explanation!! So informative. 
You are most welcome. I'm happy to help.Thank you @DustinFNW for the incredible explanation!! So informative.
Sharing a method 703 (17"x8.5" with +35 offset) in 265/70R17 KO3 on a stock level.
The tires are almost within the fender, a little bit in. Looking at the mud flaps, 40 offset should be align with the stoke look.
The tires are almost within the fender, a little bit in. Looking at the mud flaps, 40 offset should be align with the stoke look.
Attachments
I don’t claim to know about engineering wheels more than Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, or even the F1 team that have confidence and use Rays and other JDM aftermarket wheels but would love to see the data showing the clear deficiencies in their designs for the 6x139PCD and why they should not have any JWL-T or VIA certification. If the majority of certified aftermarket wheels for LCs are lug centric with then why were they built this way?
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