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Any suggestions on how to get wires up behind this center switch panel? I popped it off and it's dense back there and did not see a route down and over toward the driver's side firewall.

View attachment 44797
If you remove the trim panel under the steering wheel (not hard but time consuming) and the Dvr's side, center console knee bolster (super easy) and the Traction Control Knob trim panel (super easy but scary) You'll see there is a very small space that you can fish many wires through. It's not a straight shot and you can not see from one side the other, but shining a powerful flash light from the steering wheel side, you can kind of see which way to guide a fish tape. The below link in a thread that may assist you.......

 
Any pics with the fridge? Also are you running the 45 or 55 ecoflow glacier? I am trying to do something similar as I do not want to remove the seats every trip.
It's a few years old and I think it's a 38qt. That platform is for the power bank not the fridge...... The Fridge Is mounted on a DIY Slider. Somehow I neglected to post pictures ...... LOL. The slider takes up the entire L/H side of the cargo area (with the rear seat in the normal position) When camping/tail gating, I put the pwr bank in, but just traveling just the fridge. All the platforms I made are lashed in and takes about 5 min to install/remove.
 
I tried searching but couldn’t find anything. What are the tips and tricks to remove the rear hatch panel?
 
I tried searching but couldn’t find anything. What are the tips and tricks to remove the rear hatch panel?
BigMF covered it in depth...... Post #42

 
@EOD Guy, thank you for your willingness to share your knowledge! We all really appreciate the extra time you take to document your work.

I've located the exact red/white dome lights you installed in the cargo area and I have a question regarding their function. Do the lights "remember" the setting from the last time they were activated by opening the hatch? If they are set to red, say, do they stay red after closing and reopening the hatch? If they were turned off, do they stay off?
 
@EOD Guy, thank you for your willingness to share your knowledge! We all really appreciate the extra time you take to document your work.

I've located the exact red/white dome lights you installed in the cargo area and I have a question regarding their function. Do the lights "remember" the setting from the last time they were activated by opening the hatch? If they are set to red, say, do they stay red after closing and reopening the hatch? If they were turned off, do they stay off?
The lights I used have individual On/Off switches one for the 2 red or amber LEDs and a separate switch for the two white LEDs. You can turn on either or both or all 4. I have red/wht on one side and amber/wht on the other side. They are hard wired to the 12v battery and are not controlled by the rear hatch.

I'm not sure if the light's switches are latching (I think they are but not positive). It would be possible to run a relay and run a trigger wire from the hatch's light or possibly the OEM dome light, to make them come on when the doors/hatch is opened, if that's what you want.

In my case I did not want that and it's fairly easy to reach inside and press the on button, if I need to light the cargo area for a day-to-day use. The main purpose was for camping, where different levels of light might be needed while I was inside the vehicle.
 
The lights I used have individual On/Off switches one for the 2 red or amber LEDs and a separate switch for the two white LEDs. You can turn on either or both or all 4. I have red/wht on one side and amber/wht on the other side. They are hard wired to the 12v battery and are not controlled by the rear hatch.

I'm not sure if the light's switches are latching (I think they are but not positive). It would be possible to run a relay and run a trigger wire from the hatch's light or possibly the OEM dome light, to make them come on when the doors/hatch is opened, if that's what you want.

In my case I did not want that and it's fairly easy to reach inside and press the on button, if I need to light the cargo area for a day-to-day use. The main purpose was for camping, where different levels of light might be needed while I was inside the vehicle.
Thanks for the info. I plan to fab a couple plates to replace the 3rd row grab handles on which I will surface mount these lights. I will run wiring behind the plate, behind the headliner, then to the tiny OEM spot lights; this will allow them to operate with the hatch.

My main intention is also for camping, where my biggest concern would be a scenario where they are set to red, but reset to to white when I reopen the hatch. I'm going to grab a pair and give it a go! I'll write up my findings in a separate thread. Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the info. I plan to fab a couple plates to replace the 3rd row grab handles on which I will surface mount these lights. I will run wiring behind the plate, behind the headliner, then to the tiny OEM spot lights; this will allow them to operate with the hatch.

My main intention is also for camping, where my biggest concern would be a scenario where they are set to red, but reset to to white when I reopen the hatch. I'm going to grab a pair and give it a go! I'll write up my findings in a separate thread. Thanks again!
I just bench tested one of those lights and the switches are NOT latching. So it won't work as a door controlled cargo light. There are single color lights that could be used like an additional cargo light and with a relay they could be used with dual pwr sources. You could also use a 2nd relay to switch between a red light and a white light. If you're interested in a circuit, I'll be happy to draw one up for you.
simple light circuit.webp
 
I just bench tested one of those lights and the switches are NOT latching. So it won't work as a door controlled cargo light. There are single color lights that could be used like an additional cargo light and with a relay they could be used with dual pwr sources. You could also use a 2nd relay to switch between a red light and a white light. If you're interested in a circuit, I'll be happy to draw one up for you.
View attachment 56731
I wish I could do sh!t like that!
 
In all your wiring explorations on the LC, have you messed with any of the JBL sound system wiring? I've been waiting for a plug n play harness to the JBL amp under the seat, simply to add a sub. Would love to find the pinouts/wire colors to know where to tap the existing sub wires without pulling the hatch panel and tapping there.
 
In all your wiring explorations on the LC, have you messed with any of the JBL sound system wiring? I've been waiting for a plug n play harness to the JBL amp under the seat, simply to add a sub. Would love to find the pinouts/wire colors to know where to tap the existing sub wires without pulling the hatch panel and tapping there.
Sorry no, my days of loud, prefect sounding tunes are long past. I came to realize many years ago that good sounding and just loud enough to mask road noise suits me just fine. I have no issue with anyone who's volume level can't be heard outside their vehicle, but for those that have it blasting and heard 5 cars away at a stop light, I don't quite understand why. Corvette convertibles being the exception, as anybody that owns a new gen Vet is cool (well almost anybody)

There is a pretty in-depth post/thread that a couple of members have had success in the OEM amp mods.
 
In all your wiring explorations on the LC, have you messed with any of the JBL sound system wiring? I've been waiting for a plug n play harness to the JBL amp under the seat, simply to add a sub. Would love to find the pinouts/wire colors to know where to tap the existing sub wires without pulling the hatch panel and tapping there.
Welcome to the asylum.
 
what on/off switch did you end up using for the hatch light?
Details here post #4:
 
Details here post #4:

i think i've finally figured out what i need to do after an hour of staring at that diagram :ROFLMAO: i'm not good at wiring so this has been a steep learning curve
 
i think i've finally figured out what i need to do after an hour of staring at that diagram :ROFLMAO: i'm not good at wiring so this has been a steep learning curve
The simple explanation....... find where the two hatch lights "Y" and where the "Y" converts into just two wires. Cut one of the two wires and run your switch wires to the wire where you cut it.
 
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