🛠️ Member Build Eod Guy's Ride

[EOD Guy]

I have 6 posts concerning my build, the color codes help with locating individual Mods.

12v Battery, Optima (Post #1)
12v Outlet (Post #1)
12v Solar Charger (Post #1)
Air Compressor Install (Post #1)
Air Filter Critter Screen (Post #1)
Anti-Theft Relay (Post #5)
Back up lights (Post #1)
Bed Platform (Post #2)
Bike Rack (Post #2)
Cargo Area Lights (Post #2)
Cell Phone Mount "Off Roam" (Post #2)
Cellphone Booster/Amp "WeBoost "(Post #2)
Center Console Lid (Post #2)
Center Caps (Post #2)
Credit card Key (Post #2)
Door Pull Lights (Post #2)
"D" Pillar Taillights (Post #3)
EcoFlow Power Bank Platform (Post #3)
EcoFlow Remote Monitor (Post #3)
Hood Deflector (Post #3)
Hood Struts (not Redline) (Post #3)
Horns (Post #3)
Lighted Door Sills (Post #3)
Lock Box (Post#3)
Lug Wrench (Post #3)
Magnetic Anti-Lock out Switch (Post #3)
Puddle Lights (Post #3)
Radar Detector Mount (Post #3)
RAV 4 Radio Knob (Post #3)
Rain Guards (Post #3)
Rear Bumper Covers (Painted) (Post #3)
Rear Door Card removal (Post #3)
Rear Footwell Lights (Post #4)
Rear Hatch “add” button (Post #4)
Rear Hatch Light On/Off Switch (Post #4)
Rear Hatch S&G light (Post #4)
Rear Glass “add” button (Post #4)
Relay Box Install (Post #4)
Rock Rail Extensions (Post #4)
Windshield Gap Rubber Trim (Post #4)
Rock Rail Lights (Post #4)
Roof Rack Step (Post #4)
Seat “GAP” storage (Post #4)
Seat Back Pads/Mats (Post #4)
Trailer Brake Emulator (Post #4)
Trail Hunter Wheels (Post #4)
Trickle Charger Pass Through (Post #5)
Windshield Edge Gap Trim (Post #5)
12 Gal Aux Fuel Tank (Post #6)

Electrical connector web site: Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics


Optima DH6 Battery:

12V outlet Mod:
I wanted a 12v outlet in the rear that was easily accessible. I fabricated a simple mount from a piece of angle iron, bolted it to the Jack cradle. Jack trim cover closes completely without any interference. I added a very small voltage meter, that's momentarily turned on by pressing the switch. I also added a battery tender pig tail in the rear to provide an easy power source, ease to hook up my jumper box (I don't need the starting power of the jumper box, just the 12volts to get the LC's computers fired up so the Hybrid battery can take over and start/charge the vehicle) As always, I protect my wiring with a resettable circuit breaker. I went with a 30amp as I don't anticipate running anything with a higher amp load.

Solar 12v battery Charger MOD:

I don't use my LC for a DD and I've had the 12v battery go flat several times, so much that I bought a jump box. If it sits for more than a couple weeks the battery voltage drops below the min required to fire up the computers and it will not start. With the jump box it has always started right up, but even with a new Optima battery there is always a constant drain so I decided to see if I could fix it............

I mounted the panel under the cross bars in order that I still had full use of them. I ran the wire the same way as I did my "WeBoost" coax cable just on the Dvr's side.


Air Compressor Mod: - Viair 485C

Yellow dots are factory bolts/holes

Mounting plate, used some stand-offs under the bolts to make it level

Compressor mounted

Switch is from "CH4X4" (cube size)

Air tank mounted, it's tight but it fits

Chuck, pressure switch installed. I use a small tank, not for air storage volume but to take advantage of an air pressure switch. That way the compressor doesn't run non-stop. I also use a "pressure relief valve" in order to not burst the tank.

Passenger side Pwr Distro box, corner cover removed showing the main feed and starter cable lugs. At the L/H pic are the ribs that I removed in order to put the extension in, the R/H..... Ribs removed.

Paper template of the new buss bar extension

Stainless Buss Bar extension 1st bends. Finial crimp on to 6 gage wire

Stainless Buss Bar extension, mounted

Stainless Buss Bar extension, with OEM cover back in place. You can see the red 6 gage wire along the left side of the PDC, it's routed to the area in front of the air cleaner box

Circuit Breaker and Aux Buss Bar mount

Yellow dots are bolts/screw, Red dots are tabs.

Door weather stripping must be pulled away 1st (Yellow dots) then the side panel can be pulled off (yellow dots are approx where the plastic clips are, the Green dot is a plastic hook that must be inserted 1st when you reassemble.

Pull straight out on the switch panel for removal. I spliced into the illumination wire (green wire coming out of the rheostat and actually spliced in where there was room).

Pushed the switch and the air compressor works like it's supposed to! I used a fuse tap in an empty ACCY slot to power the Air Compressor switch (which in turn energizes the relay).


Air Filter Critter Screen Mod:
With winter coming, I decided to install a critter screen in the airbox intake.

Removal of the entire airbox doesn't require any tools..........

Pop the metal clips holding the top housing to the bottom (no need to loosen or remove the clamps holding the rubber tube onto the top housing) pop the plastic fastener holding the wire loom to the housing to allow the top to be moved out of the way (you do not need to unplug the harness connector). With a steady pull, pull up on the bottom housing and dislodge it from the rubber mounts.

This is what it looks like with the airbox removed:

This is a view with the Fibrous pad at the bottom of the airbox lifted up. It must be a sound deadener of some sort as there are no openings beneath the pad.

Back up Lights Mod:
I like lots of light when backing up.........

After 5 other attempts at lights that would fit beside the receiver tube, I found these from Amazon

They fit well

I removed the Trailer plug from the bracket to make it easier for what I wanted to do.

I de-pinned the center connector from the Toyota plug (Yellow wire is the Reverse wire)

I fed a new "red" wire through the OEM weather seal and securely wrapped it around the yellow wire's connector/terminal. I purposely did not solder it for future me modifications.

I fashioned an alignment tool by flattening a piece of alum wire (this is a MUST) to align the very awkward terminal back into the Toyota socket. Simply insert the flattened part of the wire int the Yellow/red terminal and feed it back into the housing. It will only fit back in one way without forcing it.

I don't have a before pic.....sorry. I'm happy with the results.

Backup lights part 2:

I haven't decided if the new lights (mounted on the outer end of the bumper) will stay........ But I added two additional backup lights today. Plenty bright now!

I removed the OEM bolt holding the plastic bumper cover to the metal brace and reused the bolt in the new light's mounting bracket and reinstalled it, securing the cover back to the metal brace.

I ran the new light's wires across to the 7 pin and connected all 4 Red wires together and the grounds together. I attached the ground wire(s) to a ring terminal and attached it to one of the 1st round backup lights. I attached the red (POS) wire(s) to the 7 pin "backup" wire that I had previously installed in round one.

1st round (2 lights)------------------------------ 4 lights

 

[EOD Guy]

This Post contains:

Bed Platform
Bike Rack
Cargo Area Lights
Cell Phone Mount "Off Roam"
Cellphone Booster/Amp "WeBoost "
Center Console Lid
Center Caps
Credit card Key
Door Pull Lights

Bed platform Mod:
I didn't want a full sized, dedicated platform, I still need the seats for traveling with my G-Baby. I wanted something super lightweight that could be stored on it's edge, if needed or strapped to the roof rack, if needed. I wanted clear unobstructed storage under it to store my tool kits and access to the rearmost storage tray. I made and installed a carbon fiber deck. (edit: after finishing the carbon fiber deck, the entire platform weighs 13 lbs)

When I measured the 1/2 folded seat front edge and rear edge, there was 1.5" - 2" difference in height so I made my platform 3.75" tall. That leaves 1.5" or so difference in height and I don't think it'll be an issue.

It's only 4" tall, just enough for my jumper cables and socket set will fit underneath. I didn't use what most are using to secure the platform to the cargo floor (turn buckles) I made some 1/8" thick by 1.5" wide metal straps that take advantage of the large bolts holding the hybrid battery to the frame. I used some 1" nylon strap secured the mounts/metal strap mentioned above, cut some very small slots in the plastic trim pieces and threaded the nylon through those. I attached the quick cam buckle to the bed. When the bed isn't installed only two nylon straps are visible in the cargo area and those are easily pulled through the rubber mat and hidden.

I also hinged the top deck at the rear storage tray area, allowing me to flip it up and gain easy access to the tray

The straps allow me to remove the bed in approx 3 min. They also allow me to unbuckle the rear straps and pivot the bed up to retrieve the jumper cables or my socket set.

Extruded Alumim Frame

Mattress inflated, fits like a glove

Mattress from amazon ($100) Someone on this forum recommended this, and they weren't wrong, I like it so far.

The Key to a sturdy extruded alum frame structure are exact lengths and 90 degree cuts. (wood working tools work great for cutting alum, just go slow and keep a firm grip, the metal will get hot, so gloves are recommended)
The ext Alum is 3/4" square (actually sold in mm)
The long runners are 42" for the top two and 34" for the bottom two (allows for the rear seat to be reclined in a normal sitting position with the rack installed). The bottom runners are shorter to allow access to the rear storage tray with the rack is installed.
The cross braces are 25.5" and are installed between the top runners.
The vertical posts are 1.75" and are installed between the top and bottom rails. (this allows for the 2 different style corner braces to be installed)

Bike Rack:
I purchased a e-bike and needed a bike rack etc..........

I chose the "Cravot" for aprox $260.00 it was decent for what I paid but there were several things I wanted to change.

1 - It stuck way out from the bumper.
2 - The receiver fit was sloppy, which most receiver mounts are.
3 - The included ramp didn't lock on to the rack well and would slip off.
4 - The height of the rack when installed in the receiver was awkward for me to load my bike on.
5 - The swing up arm for holding/securing the bike's frame was awkward.
6 - No way to lock the bike to the rack.
7 - The LC's anti-back up feature engaged with the rack installed.

The cons:
You have to be careful when raising the rack with the bike on it or the cross bar will snag on the top post (have to lean the bike away about 3 degrees as it gets to the top of the travel).

It's a little on the slow side.

The only thing I would have done differently........... I should have mounted the jack 90 degrees (sideways) from how I did it. I ended up moving the up/down switch from facing the hatch (factory location) to the side for easier activation, while holding the bike while it lifts into the fully raised position.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2VXFZ8X?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

(1 and 5) - I cut the swing up arm off the bar completely and removed approx 10" - 16" from the length of the bar. This created another issue of opening the LC's rear hatch with the rack installed. To solve this I purchased a hitch extender from Home Depot, cut that into three parts and used the parts along with some 3/16" plate to make a tilting mech.

(2) - I drilled out the stock 5/8" lock pin holes to 1". I used some 1" round stock to make some slugs and drilled, tapped (to 5/8") and welded the slugs into the receiver tubes ( one for the bumper and one for the new tilt mech). I used some grade 8 bolts and machined some new "screw in" lock pins, which eliminates the receiver slop.

(3 and 4) - I saw a "Lift Caddy" but wasn't paying the $700 for it, so I bought a "electric trailer jack" from Northen Tool for $150.00 and promptly cut that up and welded part of the receiver extender from the previous fix, to the jack tube.

(5) - I fabbed a plate that bolted between the trailer lift motor and the jack and mounted a non-movable arm that the bike's frame secures to (utilizing the Cravot piece).

(6) - Welded a piece of 1/8" pipe to the jack tube that the NY lock slips into and the chain wraps around the bike frame tec.... but allows the lock to be removed from the rack and taken with me.

(7) Which took several attempts to solve. 1st I tried just a light bulb to the "Blue wire" (trailer brake) with no joy. So I thought maybe all the lights had to be hooked to the 7 pin for it to work, again no joy. I ordered the cheapest electro brake magnet I could find (see link below) hooked that up and it worked! Anti-back up disengaged when the 7 pin was hooked up. Figured I might as well add a back up light....... LOL so now my rack is powered up and down, full running, turn, brake and back up lights. I had to mill the magnet housing down in order for it to slip inside and be bolted to the rack receiver tube.


Red lines indicate the area I milled off, in order for it to fit inside the receiver tube.


https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/etrailer/AKBRKR-M7.html

7 Pin trailer plug "blue wire". Be aware different people use different wire colors. The important part is the pin location.

Cargo area lights:
I purchased 2 of these from Amazon, milled off the little bars that are used for a strap around a roll bar. Fabricated a mounting plate that fits under the OEM grab handle. They work Great!

Off Roam Cell Phone mount:

WeBoost cell phone amp Mod:
Purchased the Wilson Electronics "WeBoost Overlander" cell phone amp. I welded a steel plate to the back side of the jack cradle and mounted the amp to that. I made a solid spacer that fits in the EOM roof rack "C" chanel and through bolted the Weboost antenna to that. The antenna bounces and hits the roof when folded, so I fabricated a stainless steel antenna cradle that bolted to a 3/4" extruded alum. The new alum rail is bolted to the "missing" 5th cross bar should go. I ran the coax in the corner gap of the rear hatch, through the OEM rubber boot, across to the "D: pillar and down to the Amp.

I poked a very tiny hole in the rubber boot using an ice pick, then forced the coax through that tiny hole. It made a very tight waterproof seal.

When removing the rubber boost, DO NOT attempt to pry it off like every other panel or you will break the plastic keeper! Grasp the rubber boot along the flat part of the boot and pull straight out until it come off the white plastic keeper, work around the boot until it's separated from the keeper. Once the boot is free, there are plastic tabs that keep the keeper secured to the metal, just depress them and pop the keeper out. after running your cable through the boot, stretch the rubber back around the white keeper and snap the keeper back in to the hole.

Old modified OEM panel and New Aussie 7 gang switch panel

The purpose of the relay: The original Weboost switch, switched between two points from the cigar plug circuit board (no additional 12v input) The Ch4X4 switch would provide an additional 12v input to the circuit board which would burn up the board. The relay provides the same functionality as the original switch and controlled by the CH4X4 switch.

Center Console Lid separation:

To separate the inner and outer shells only requires a phillips head screwdriver.

1 - Use a plastic trim tool, insert it at the seam of the rear AC control panel and the bottom Shoe. (what I call the "shoe"). Once it pops, grasp the panel on each side of the AC panel and give it a good yank straight rearward. It'll pop right off.

2 - Use a #2 phillips screwdriver and remove the six mounting screws.

Full disclosure...... steps 1 & 2 are not required, but that's how I did it.

3 - Open the lid and use the trim tool, insert it in the small gap on the rounded corner, between the top cover and the lower inner cover and twist the tool to start the separation. Insert a second trim tool and twist, working your way down the panel.......... repeat for the other edge.

Center Cap Mod:
Bought some Center Caps took them apart, painted them with "Ford Dark Shadow Gray" touch up paint.

Credit Card Key:
Parts are for a 2024 Tacoma..........
New credit card key, 8990H-A1010
Emergency key blank, 69515-12350
Not every locksmith can cut this key.
Program new card to vehicle.

Musts:
Brand new never programed credit card key
Bring all the existing fobs when getting the card programmed, otherwise any forgotten fob will not work anymore. They need to enter all existing key registrations into the vehicle at the same time.


Door Pull lights:
Toyota Inner Car Door Handle Mini Bowl Lamp

Actual installed light:

I spray painted the edges black because the ones I used in my Taco were too bright. The FE comes with OEM door pull lights and in reality, I just wanted the “Land Cruiser” logo for the cool factor.

I didn’t want to hack the OEM wiring and decided to make some “break-out” harnesses…… I knew from a previous install that I had to leave some slack in the wiring in order to install the door pocket trim panel screw and I added a third connector to allow the light to be disconnected from the “break out” harness.

I purchased several different door light wiring harness connectors from Amazon to make the “break out” harness. For the “Female” pin connector (I purchased these two):

Amazon.com: automotive connectors 2 Pin 7282-5845 7283-5845 7282-5846 90980-11918 Automotive Ambient Light Cable Socket easy replacement(Female,5PCS) : Automotive

Buy automotive connectors 2 Pin 7282-5845 7283-5845 7282-5846 90980-11918 Automotive Ambient Light Cable Socket easy replacement(Female,5PCS): Harness Connector Repair Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: 1/5/10/20 Sets 7282-5845 7283-5845 unsealed 2-pin Automatic Reader Coil Socket Female Male Connector Foot Socket Light(White) : Automotive

Buy 1/5/10/20 Sets 7282-5845 7283-5845 unsealed 2-pin Automatic Reader Coil Socket Female Male Connector Foot Socket Light(White): Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

For the “Male” pin connector: some el-cheapo door lights from Amazon. These were a little spendy but after comparing the cost of new housing, pins and shipping, these were close in cost ($9 per). I cut off the connector wires as close to the light as possible and I’ll repurpose the light on other projects.

Amazon.com: LED Luggage Compartment Light Fits for Toyota RAV4,Trunk Ceiling Lights Lamps,Decorative Atmosphere Lamp,Interior Replacement LED Lights Lamps,Car Accessories (for Toyota RAV4 2022-2025) : Automotive

Amazon.com: LED Luggage Compartment Light Fits for Toyota RAV4,Trunk Ceiling Lights Lamps,Decorative Atmosphere Lamp,Interior Replacement LED Lights Lamps,Car Accessories (for Toyota RAV4 2022-2025) : Automotive

www.amazon.com

Completed breakou harness:

Do NOT buy these, they took forever to arrive and they didn’t include the metal terminals

Amazon.com: 2-Pin Female Male 7283-5845/90980-11918 7282-5845 Automotive Reader Coil Connector(Male Female Set,10sets) : Automotive

Buy 2-Pin Female Male 7283-5845/90980-11918 7282-5845 Automotive Reader Coil Connector(Male Female Set,10sets): ECM Wiring - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

These are NOT the correct ones either……

Amazon.com: iJDMTOY Pair OEM-Spec Side Door Step Courtesy Light Power Cord Pigtail Connector Harness w/ 5-Inch Wiring Compatible with Lexus/Toyota/Scion, Compatible with Subaru : Automotive

Buy iJDMTOY Pair OEM-Spec Side Door Step Courtesy Light Power Cord Pigtail Connector Harness w/ 5-Inch Wiring Compatible with Lexus/Toyota/Scion, Compatible with Subaru: Wiring Harnesses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[EOD Guy]

This Post contains:

"D" Pillar Taillights
EcoFlow Power Bank Platform
EcoFlow Remote Monitor
Hood Deflector
Hood Struts (not Redline)
Horns
Lighted Door Sills
Lock Box
Lug Wrench
Magnetic Anti-Lock out Switch

"D" Pillar Taillight Mod:

I saw these from another member and liked the added visibility.....

Removing the OEM taillight is straight forward, it involves removing a trim piece and two 10mm bolts.

Remove the OEM "D" pillar trim piece by inserting a trim tool and pulling the trim piece off.

Remove the 3 white plastic fasteners from the OEM piece and insert them into the new lights

Remove the Taillight inner trim piece.

Remove the two 10mm bolts.

Hook/place/grasp your fingers approximately where the bolts were and give the taillight a sharp rearward jerk and the tail light will pop off, it's in there really tight so it might take a few tries........

Disconnect the wiring connector from the taillight and set the taillight aside.

Snap the new "D" pillar light in place and Connect the OEM body side connector to the new light. Unplug the new light small connector and install the included resistor harness. Connect the new light's 2nd connector to the tail light, letting the new lights wires hang.

Carefully start the taillight mounting studs into the outer most holes, pivot the taillight so that the 100mm bolt holes kind of line up, then smack the taillight home. Reinstall the 10mm bolts and snap the trim piece back into place.

EcoFlo Fridge and power bank platform:
I use my LC for other things besides overlanding........ I wanted a lightweight, easily removed and secure platform to strap the Fridge and pwr bank to. I didn't want to remove the rear seats etc....... so with the dvr's-rear seat folded forward, I took advantage of the OEM seat catch anchors. Now just waiting on the new Fridge and pwr bank.

Frame with the top off. The 8 silver magnets that secure the rear portion of the top are visable on the R/H side of the pic.

Rear portion of the top installed (held in place by 8 super strong magnets)

Nylon lashing straps lashing the frame to the seat anchors.

EcoFlow Remote Monitor Mod:
My EcoFlow Delta 3 Power bank has a built-in usage meter, but when it’s strapped into it’s storage place in the LC, it’s almost impossible to view it without exiting the vehicle> I removed the driver’s side 3rd seat grab handle and mounted the EcoFlow remote monitor. It’s now very easy to view from the inside when on my laptop and almost as easy to view from the ground when cooking/making coffee at the rear of the LC. Makes it a lot easier to determine when to charge the power bank back up!

Hood Deflector P/N PW421-60013:
Australian origin, Install was 20 min.

1 - Clean the front edge of the hood approx 4” with alcohol.
2 - Remove the protective cover from the deflector.
3 - Using the plastic “push pin” fasteners attach the “C”, “D” and “E” hood clips to the deflector
(do NOT remove the adhesive protective strip on “E” clips at this time.
4 - Apply the clear rubber tits “I” to the underside of the deflector at the yellow markers.
5 - Loosely place the deflector on the hood, using painters tape mark where the “C” clips land.
(note the OEM holes in the hood should be close to where the “D” clips land).
Remove the deflector and apply the clear hood protector tape “B” to the hood.
6 - Start screw “F” in plastic keeper “G” (just enough to hold the screw in place).
7 - Loosely place the deflector on the hood, place the plastic keeper “G” through the square hole on “D” clip and guide it into the OEM hole in the hood , tighten the screw just 3-4 turns. Repeat for the other side.
8 - Push hood clip “C” over the edge of the hood and tap firmly into place with a brass hammer.
Finish tightening the screws on the keepers.
9 - Using a dental pick or hook tool, reach between the hood and the bottom of the “E” clip/standoff and remove the
adhesive protective strips on all 3 “E” clips. Use tweezers and align all 3 “E” clips with the front edge of the hood,
then press down firmly from the top.

Cons: It flaps a bit in the car wash when the dryer hits it. I wish it had the clips that bolt to the hood like the other kit.

Hood Strut Mod:
The one sold by "Sticker Fab" not a high quality kit but will do the job. We'll see how long it lasts.

Horn Mod: I couldn't like the "meep meep" horns, The Toyota premium (08522-60010) sound much louder and better!

Lighted Door Sills Mod: Took about 15 minutes, Yellow dot is the wiring plug (passenger side is in the same location) a hook tool is the best tool to unlatch the blanking plug. The Blue christmas tree fastener stayed in when the OEM sills were removed, you will need to remove it before you install the lighted sill (new ones are already mounted in the new sill).

Lock Box Mod:
I made it out of 3/16" cold rolled steel. Fingerprint lock.

Lug Wrench (Metric), not really a Mod but it's hands down the best and most compact lug wrench I've ever owned!

Magnetic Unlocking Mod:

I use a magnetic sensor to unlock the driver's door with any metal object. Basically the sensor produces a Neg pulse when a metal object passes over it, the range is only about 1/4". I keep a spare fob (in sleep mode and in a faraday pouch) hidden in the interior, so I'll never be stranded due to lost keys.

It's a three wire hook up.
1 - (Brown) 12v always hot
2 - (Blue) Ground
3 - (Black) Output to the trigger wire on the driver's door. Had to take half the truck apart to gain access to the proper wire, it was a royal PITA!

Puddle Lights for the doors and rear hatch light for S&Gs.

Radar Det Mount Mod:
This was quite the adventure, several variations and settled on this one.
The switch is a Redline 360C switch taken apart, switch and LED wires extended and mounted in the OEM blanking plug. Switch is a motorcycle after market mini-horn button colored with a sharpie, I don't like the color so I'll be painting it in the future. (edit) I found some 8mm black mini switches and replaced it with one of those.

The holder is a cell phone mount. The post is fabricated from parts of the cell phone holder and a 1/4 x 20stainless screw rethreaded on one end to M6 to allow the magnet to be screwed on. The adhesive disk is stuck to the dash, the adhesive disk was a bust, soon as the sun heated it up, it quit sticking. The solution was to remove the speaker grill (pulls straight up) grind down the ribs on the bottom side and epoxy a metal plate (black item on the L/H side) to the underside of the speaker grill. Radar mount 4 pic is the magnet (65 lbs) holding the Radar Det and mount upside down. It'll hold well for everyday driving (about 5lbs of holding force) but not off-roading. They sell a stronger magnetic base (120 lbs) that may hold better.

The power and ground wires are ran under the dash area to the OEM switch panel area (that's where all my add on wires are ran) , up the L/H side to the Instrument trim bezel. I pulled out the bezel enough to run the wires around it to the center speaker area of the dash and just let it exit there. Snapped the bezel back in and made for a nice tidy wiring for the radar det.

Radio Knob Mod: part# 90010-23059
I did the RAV4 radio knob swap on my Taco and Liked it. I did the RAV4 swap on the LC and like it as much. No tools are needed, just pull the OEM knob off, remove the spacer/beauty stand off from the RAV4 knob, push the RAV4 knob onto the radio shaft.

RAV4 Knob with the insert removed from the backside.

RAV4 knob installed

Rain Guards:
OEM part number 08162-60840
On an easy to hard scale, I'd give it a "1" super easy. The only tricky part are the little clips. The PDF attachment is for a Lexus, but close enough (note: the PDF indicates the guards attach with separate rivets, the rivets are molded into the guard).

Step 1 - Clean the outside door frame with an alcohol prep pad.
Step 2 - Roll down the window.
Step 3 - Pull the window channel rubber seal from the upper and fwd portions (just an inch or so)
Step 4 - Test fit the guard with the white plastic still on the foam adhesive strips, once you're comfortable, peel back the fwd green pull tab about 1/2" and fold it 90 degrees (so it sticks straight up), repeat for the trailing green pull tab. Remove the two small white plastic pieces on the rear of the guard. Place the forward edge (rearview mirror end) making sure to get the very tiny tab behind the mirror trim plate. I used my fingers to align the top / rear edge and put a slight forward push on the guard while checking the leading edge (closest to the mirror) was also aligned, then pressed the top / trailing edge onto the door frame then the bottom, making sure the adhesive stuck.

Then I moved to the forward leading edge (closest to the mirror) and started pulling the white plastic strip (this is why I made the 90 fold) at the same time I made sure the top edge was aligned as I worked my way back to the trailing edge. Making sure I pressed the entire length of the guard to ensure the adhesive strip made good contact with the door frame.

Step 5 - Take the little plastic clips, pull the window rubber out of the way and snap it onto the rain guard and it will almost self align to the metal window frame. Push the rubber back into place and roll up the window.

Rear Bumper Covers:

Remove the top bumper cover (it pops straight up, no tools required) you can look into the small slots (where the top cover snapped into) and see the white keepers. A long skinny screwdriver is just right to depress the white tab and push it to the side (see picture below). Getting them out wasn't a big deal.

To re-install them was challenging, I used a long set of forceps for the top ones except the inner most one on the Pass side required a hole drilled. After the hole was installed.....lol It was easy as pie.

Door Card Removal:

This isn’t a hard job, but it is tricky if you’ve never done it before…….

Remove the trim panel behind the interior door handle. Insert your favorite trim tool at the rear of the trim panel, just in front of the handle’s pivot point and pry it off. Remove the phillips screw and set aside.

Remove the door pull trim panel, using a steel trim tool (hook tool, butter knife, small bent screw driver etc…..) insert the tool at the top center of the trim panel and wedge it outwards until you can insert a larger plastic trim tool in the gap. Twist the plastic trim tool to pry it outwards to pop off the panel. (Note: there are plastic hooks at the lower edge of the panel that will prevent you from using the bottom edge). Remove the two phillips screws and set aside.

I start on the lower, forward edge of the door panel and insert a large plastic trim tool, twist it to pop off/out the first of many plastic Christmas tree fasteners. I work up the forward edge, then around the bottom then the rear edge. Grasping the door panel on the fwd and rear edges, I give it a tug from the bottom pulling outwards to ensure the Xmas tree fasteners have disengaged. Rocking the entire panel fwd and backwards to disengage the window seal (this is one of the tricky parts). Once the panel is freed, reach inside and disconnect the Blue wire connector and the Black connector. If you have curtesy lights you will always have to remove the small white connector at the bottom of the door. Lay the panel aside and remove from the door any Xmas fasteners that didn’t come off with the door (this is another tricky part to remove them without damaging them) I use this tool

To reinstall the panel you need to remove the rear most weather stripping from the door panel or you will never get the panel back on right! To do this you depress the small white locking tab (like a connector locking tab). Once you have it removed from the panel, reinstall it on the metal door, making sure to tuck/fit it under the weather stripping.

Reinstall the Blue and Black wire connectors (don’t worry about the curtesy light connector, just poke the wire through the opening in the panel). Slip the door handle thru the opening and insert the fwd tip into the keeper, the press the other end into place. Align the top of the panel with the window weather stripping and the top Xmas tree fasteners and pop into place. Reinstall the screws and trim panels.

 

[EOD Guy]

This Post contains:

Rear Footwell Lights
Rear Hatch “add” button
Rear Hatch Light On/Off Switch
Rear Hatch S&G light
Rear Glass “add” button
Relay Box Install
Rock Rail Extensions
Windshield Gap Rubber Trim
Rock Rail Lights
Roof Rack Step
Seat “GAP” storage
Trailer Brake Emulator
Trail Hunter Wheels

Rear Footwell Lights Mod:
Awhile back a member posted on how he added lights to the underside if the front seats, to light the rear footwells. At the time I didn’t realize how helpful such a light would be as I never ride in the back. The other night my G-Baby dropped something and was upset that she couldn’t find it even with the dome light. So I decided to fix it……..LOL

I purchased these surface mount LED lights, they aren’t dim, but not bright either

I mounted them with some “Velcro cable wrap”, using the wrap as a tape to secure the wires to the underside of the seat and the floor carpet, to ensure the seat movement wouldn't snag the wires.

I had purchased some empty connectors a while back for a different project and used one and a connector for a computer circuit board to make a breakout harness. I removed the under glovebox trim panel and used that OEM LED light to power the two rear footwell lights. I ran the wires from the front under/through the center console to the rear of the center console. I ran the wire out of the ctr console trim/sides, under the seat tracks and secured them to the underside of the front seats with the Velcro (using it as tape. Works well.

All in all, it was a 40 min project.

Glass Hatch Interior Buttons Mod:
When camping, I needed a way to open the glass hatch for ventilation. Initially I added a button sistering the existing exterior Glass Hatch opener button but with that method the button only works when the doors are unlocked and well...... who sleeps with the doors unlocked. I know that the fob would unlock the doors etc....... but what if in the middle of the night there was an emergency and looking for the fob could be fatal...... so I tapped directly into the lock power wire so the button works regardless if the doors are lock/unlocked.

Glass Lock Ver 1 - taps into the button wires (doors must be unlocked to function)

Glass Lock Ver 2 - taps into the lock pwr wire and functions regardless of the doors being locked/unlocked.

Interior Cargo area Hatch opener/Closer Button Mod:
I sistered the dash Hatch switch with a break out harness ran to the rear "D" pillar.
Currently only functions when the doors are unlocked (but will add "door unlock" in the future)

Rear Hatch Light Mod: I was in the back and the curtesy lights in the rear hatch would not go off. Removed the rear hatch trim piece and installed a switch in the power side of the existing curtesy light wiring. I super imposed a rough outline of the existing and new wire runs.

Relay Box Mod: As always you need extra protected circuits to run Winches, lights, air compressor etc....

I have used this relay box on several different vehicles and have been very happy with it. I have de-pinned (removed all the normally closed (blue) wires) and re-wired the #1 (40amp) relay ground to have it's own ground vs the built in ground buss.

Mount made out of 1/16" alum

Mount installed making sure not to touch the ABS lines

Relay box installed

Routing of the Relay box power supply main wire to the 12v Buss bar (installed in front of the air filter box).

The yellow wire will power a relay that will power a ASSY buss bar (buss bar will be in the cabin). I will hook the yellow wire to one of the unused "key on" fuse blanks.

There is a removable plug to the right of the brake booster almost to the cowl, approx 1/2" in diameter....... it's easily removable and will allow 8, 16 gage wires to pass from the engine bay to the cabin. Harbor Freight gromet kit has the exact grommet to protect the wires......

Rock Rail Extension/Spacers Mod:
As anyone with OEM Rock rails knows..... they are useless as a step. I know that's how they are designed, but as this LC will never see "rocks" I needed a step for my G-Baby sooooooo.....

I took some 2.5 inch thick by 4" wide billet alum and made some spacers. They'll work but I think I'll forge ahead with a set of modified retracting steps designed for a 4 Runner or Tacoma.

Stock installation Spacers installed

Windshield Rubber Trim Mod:

Tapered end goes to the top (roof).

Trimming on the bottom end not required.

Pull the red tape a few inches and fold 90 degrees to the side, press the trim in place (not down towards the glass) but sideways under the OEM trim piece. Don't worry about the skinny end not tucking in all the way. As you start pulling the red tape, hook your finger nails under the OEM trim (between the new rubber and the hard plastic) and gently pull to relieve the friction while pulling the red tape, as you get to the skinny end (top), push the rubber into proper alignment and hold in place, while pulling the remainder of the red tape off. Press firmly downwards towards the windshield to seat the adhesive.

Rockrail Lights:

I wanted a two function Puddle/Rock light. I decided to use the OEM running board light circuit for the automatic “on” Dim function and a separate power source with switch for an “on demand” full bright function. I didn’t want to drill any holes if I didn’t have to so, I used these mounts, which I assume are for the OEM running boards / lights (IDK).

I started by making four 3/8” aluminum blocks with one recessed ½” hole for the light’s pig tail to nestle in, two 2/4”X 20 threaded holes to mount to the frame and two #10X24 threaded holes to mount the LED light to the block. I used 1-7/8” x ¼” stainless steel bolts, flat washers and lock washers to bolt the blocks to the OEM mounts. I used the ¼ bolts running from the op of the mount, through the mount, into the Aluminum block mounts.

I purchased two OEM running board light harnesses, due to the FE has two separate running board light connectors (one for each side).

4 LED lights from Amazom.

The OEM light circuit was pretty straight forward, Red to red and Black to black.

The “on Demand side” I added a diode to prevent back feeding the OEM “door open” circuit. I placed the diode on the OEM power wire. (I don’t think it was really needed because of the relay, but a 30 cent diode was worth the insurance, Note: $6 is for 20 of them).

I only show one light but there are a total of four (2 per side) The driver’s / passenger’s sides are wired exactly the same. With the Toyota’s ECU weirdness, I opted to switch both the POS and NEG legs of the circuit. I had some funky results when only switching one leg. I could have gotten away with just 2 relays switching them both on with the switch, but I was too far into it and was too lazy to re-run wires etc……. I’ll probably eliminate “relay 1” at a later date. For those tracing the circuit Terminals 85 & 86 are interchangeable (relays 2 & 3).

Roof Rack Step:
Initially I didn't think I'd be using the roof rack for anything and actually considered removing it. My daughter convinced me "It completes the look of an "LC" so I left it on. I decided to mount my WeBoost antenna to the inner frame as it was very solid. The antenna has a locking folding feature that allows it to be stored when running through a car wash and or when parking in areas where you don't need unwanted interest in the vehicle. All very well except when you're not very tall and old and climbing up on a tire isn't as quick as it used to be.......... so I saw a solution on Amazon, but it was made of steel (which will rust over time) and I wasn't going to pay $100+ for something I didn't really like. I decided to make my own version out of extruded aluminum that would fold flat, easily stored and double as a small table when rested on the bumper vs the tire.

My result.... It's 22" wide, heavy duty and has enough room on the platform, unlike a small ladder, that I can easily turn around, reach almost to the front of the rack, weatherproof and easily stored in the cargo area. It'll get either powder coated or painted in the near future.

Seat Storage: I purchased 3 or 4 different types of seat gap fillers/storage etc.......

I thought "storage 1" pic was the answer..... nope, it collapses and slides with the seat, not very deep and really would only hold a cell phone a bottle of water and putting that bottle back in while driving was interesting! so I purchased yet another set ("Pocket" pic)and fixed mounted them to the knee bolster pads. That way no adhesive to worry about on they actually will hold things.....LOL I used 1/2" binding posts (used to hold "hole" punched papers together) Yellow circles are where I drilled from the back side and through bolted/mounted them to the knee bolster.

Seatback Pads/mats:

After a recent trip and the subsequent hour long cleanup, getting the debris out of the seat back carpet.......... I installed the seatback pads. You get the cargo floor mat as well, but I like the thicker OEM mat that came with the FE, so I chose not to put the flimsy one in.

Trailer Brake Emulator:
Update: I modified my bike rack with a trailer brake magnet etc....... (covered in another thread) however the utility trailer isn't modified and I was back to square one......

I came up with the following "Elec brake emulator" of sorts.....

I purchased some eletro-magnet coils and a replacement 7 pin connector from Amazon.

I made a stand off / coil mount out of alum round stock. I think a cup could be made out of JB weld or other similar material, but I was bored etc........ The coil comes with a threaded hole in the center pin, I have no idea what size but I'm guessing M2. I have a large selection of random sized screws and used one that fit.

I cut down the center pin in the connector to almost flush. I removed all the contacts except for the "Blue" and "White" ones.

It works perfectly. I have no idea how long the coil will last, hopefully forever but I have 4 spares etc......



Wheels from a 2025 Tacoma "Trail Hunter"

 

[EOD Guy]

This Post contains:

Trickle Charger Pass Through
Windshield Edge Gap Trim

Trickle Charger Pass Through Mod:

I had issues from day one with the OEM battery going flat in a very short period of time when leaving the door/hatch open. I replaced the OEM battery with an Optima and all seemed well with day-to-day operation and with having the door/hatch open for a few hours. While working on my puddle/rock light mod and the door being open for an extended period of time, I again fell victim to a flat battery/no start situation. I should have known better but thought my solar charger would keep it topped off, however I parked in the shade and well you can figure out the rest. I decided to move up my extension cord pass through mod on my to-do list and here are the results:

I decided to purchase the shortest 12g extension cord ACE hardware sold and sacrifice it in order to have a weatherproof “male end”. I also purchased 2-Replacement “Female” ends, one for the shortened cord and one as a storage receptacle for the “male” end when not in use. I purchased some Glands from Amazon.

The placement of the hole was probably the hardest part of this entire project. Below is where I marked and drilled a ¼” pilot hole then enlarged it to 7/8”. I put liberal amounts of “seem sealer” and secured the gland in the hole.

I installed a stainless steel 1/4x20 nut zert to the under body, gutted a female replacement end, filled it with "JB Weld" and drilled a 1/4" hole through it. I used some stainless steel washers for a stand off and a stainless steel bolt to secure it to the nut zert. I wanted to secure the male end when not in use to prevent damage but at the same time make it super easy access and plug in an extension cord. The orange extension cord hangs straight down and does not touch the exhaust pipe, I just placed it there to capture everything in the picture.

Windshield Rubber Trim Mod:

Tapered end goes to the top (roof).

Trimming on the bottom end not required.

Pull the red tape a few inches and fold 90 degrees to the side, press the trim in place (not down towards the glass) but sideways under the OEM trim piece. Don't worry about the skinny end not tucking in all the way. As you start pulling the red tape, hook your finger nails under the OEM trim (between the new rubber and the hard plastic) and gently pull to relieve the friction while pulling the red tape, as you get to the skinny end (top), push the rubber into proper alignment and hold in place, while pulling the remainder of the red tape off. Press firmly downwards towards the windshield to seat the adhesive.

Anti-Theft Relay Mod:
Previously I installed a DIY anti-theft device (fuse interrupt) but have always been concerned about “if it failed while I was traveling” While it is completely reversable, It would take some time to remove the bypass I wired in.

Recently a member purchased a relay interrupt that is marketed as an anti-theft device, which got me to thinking of a better way to make my LC harder to steal etc…….. I purchased the $100+ kit and quickly realized it was nothing more than an ordinary relay with the neg leg (tang) of the energizer coil cut off and a wire added to the internal (internal to the relay’s plastic housing) portion of the “tang” that was cut off. The modified relay is easily removed and the OEM relay reinstalled should anything fail etc…….. but that required the OEM relay be carried (and remembered where you stashed it) inside the vehicle. I wanted to eliminate a special relay with a wire sticking out and easily spotted if the fuse box cover was removed.

My DIY relay

All the above being said, I decided to re-work my old system into a less complex system. I came up with my own DIY version:

I purchased a 4 pin relay pigtail and de-pinned the existing wires from the socket. The socket is designed to be linked to additional like sockets and made the footprint of my “base” larger than it needed to be and I was shooting for the least noticeable footprint as possible, so I trimmed the excess plastic/locking channels along the sides, off. I used a milling machine, but a belt sander could also be used. Next I shortened the height of the of the “base” to a point where the female end of the “terminal taps” were just barely contained and the male end of the taps protruded from the bottom of the “base”

I used one Red (22-16 AWG) and two Blue (16-14AWG) “spade terminal” taps. I carefully bent the “tangs” flat and inserted them into the “base” I modified above.

On the Neg leg “tang” extension I used a 90 degree spade terminal (removed the insulation) and soldered the wire to it, insuring it the shortest length possible and milled a clearance channel into the end of the base. The channel was aligned to ensure the “base” would sit flat on the OEM fuse box surface.

The Red taps were the exact same size as the Blue ones and after 4 attempts at ordering different Red taps and finding them all the size, I ended up milling out the Base to accommodate the larger Blue “female” end of the taps. Once inserted I poured in some “plastic bond epoxy” to seal everything up.

The wire from the “base” was routed to one side of a "Hella 933364027" Bistable relay, the other side is connected to a ground. The middle leg (Common) of the relay is connected to an "ACCY" fuse tap and two "Neg" trigger wires were routed into the cabin.

Now That I completed my “Interrupted ground” relay base, I needed to turn it on/off. I opted for a very visible and easy to activate “momentary” switch (Momentary is VERY important when using the bistable relay) for the ON switch (actually disconnecting the neg leg).

I opted for a well-hidden magnetic proximity switch for the OFF (actually connecting the neg leg).

Both switch's basically connects the bistable relays coil(s) to a ground, which activates the coil to "flip" and latch regardless if power is still applied or not. The other switch activates the coil to "flop"

Below are some switching variations using the same modified Toyota relay.

Another member of this Forum expressed a need for a cargo area grab handle to assist in getting into the LC without grabbing the strut. The following is my solution……..

I made a backing plate/bolt hole/brace from a piece of 2 inch mild steel round stock. The plate has a center 7/16” threaded hole in the center, the strap mounting bolt screws into. It has two threaded ¼” bulkhead mounting holes that are used to bolt the backing plate to the “D” pillar.

I ran a piece of fishing wire through the large OEM hole, down the “D” pillar. I ran the wire through the center hole of the backing plate and wrapped it around a small washer. I fished the backing plate up the “D” pillar and started the two ¼” allen head screws. Removed the washer and pulled the fishing wire out of the “D” pillar and fully tightened the 1/4'’ screws.

I made a stand off out of a piece of 2” aluminum round stock with a 7/16” hole drilled all the way through. I milled out clearance pockets for the heads of the two ¼” allen head screws. The below picture is with the trim panel removed for clarity.

I used a razor knife and cut a slot in the "L" shaped trim piece

I don't think it turned out too bad.

 

[EOD Guy]

FX install video:



This install isn’t that hard at all and is completely doable by one highly motivated person with jackstands/ramps and a couple of jacks. But it’s not for the faint of heart! Highly recommend a lift and transmission stands and two people.

I advise anyone installing the FK 12 gal Aux tank to watch their video a zillion times. Below is my install…….. It’s a good idea to run the fuel level to under 1/8 of a tank! Unless you have a lift and a tall jack, or tape off the fittings, when you drop the tank, you will most probably spill fuel! Luckly I had the shipping caps from the GX 550 tank I purchased on a previous fuel tank swap attempt.

The video from FX does not disconnect the electrical connectors from the interior access cover area and the steps to gain access may not be what you elect to do, but that’s what I did.

The following step may or may not be needed. I had Ed Martin’s Toyota attempt a previous FX 550 Fuel tank swap and I’m not sure if the Tech cut the carpet or not. If you flip the passenger side seat and look to see if the carpet has a wide “V” cut into it.

If the “V” isn’t cut into the carpet.
It’s a lot easier to remove the Pass side rear seat:

1 - Flip the passenger seat forward.
2 - Remove the front and rear trim panels covering the 4 bolts.
3 - Unplug the white electrical harness from the seat.
4 - Remove the four (15mm) bolts that secure the seat to the floor.
5 - Flip the seat into the cargo area (it’s a little heavy and very awkward).
6 - cut a wide “V” into the carpet.
7 - Fold the “V” piece of carpet up.

8 - Remove the metal black cover plate. It is held on by butyl rubber and is easily pried off, (I placed a piece of plastic over the butyl rubber and plate to keep it from getting all over everything)

9 - Remove the plastic protective cover. (note: the large arrow embossed on the plastic cover points towards the front bumper)

10 - Disconnect the two electrical plugs from the fuel pump (these are keyed so no need to mark them). The two with a blue circle have a “Blue Keeper”.

Note: The keepers are a PITA to remove, I used a small flat bladed jeweler’s screw driver and a hook tool

11 - Raise the vehicle with a lift, jackstands or whatever works for you.
12 - Support the fuel tank with some type of lowering device. I used a Harbor Freight “lift table” and some 2x4’s. This was awkward but doable. The jack stands were barely tall enough and after I lowered the table, I had to slide the fuel tank off the table on to the ground.
13 - Remove the three (12mm) fuel tank skid plate (one is hard to see lying on your back)

14 - Remove the two (14mm) mounting bolts.
15 - Remove the two pivot pins and keepers and place in a zip-lock bag.
16 - Lower the fuel tank to the point where the Large hose (gray Keeper) is almost stretched tight. If you removed the pass side rear seat this can be viewed through the access hole, if you didn’t remove the seat, you will ……LOL
17 - Disconnect the “Orange keeper” hard line (Iocated just above the tank, fwd end)

18 - Disconnect the slightly larger “violet keeper” /mid size hose. This can be done through the access hole (If you aren’t going to finish this project right away, it’s a good idea to cover the ends of the hoses with plastic to prevent debris from entering. If there’s no delay I don’t think covering is necessary).

19 - Disconnect the “Gray keeper” / large hose

20 - Remove the two Nuts (10mm) from the wire harness plastic “ring” (one on the side and one to the rear)

20 - Lower and remove the fuel tank.
21 - Remove the exhaust pipe and set aside.
22 - Remove the two heat shields (lower shield, three (12mm). Upper four (10mm nuts))

24 - Remove the OEM large crossover pipe from the frame (12mm) and discard.

25 - Remove the OEM corrugated tube (Red keeper on one end and Green keeper on the other) from the clips in the frame frame.

26 - Install new cross over tubes.

28 - Mount the new fuel filter.

29 - Plug in the “Fuel Pressure” wire extension and pull up through the rear seat access hole.
30 - Connect the “new” short hose to the “OUT” side of the fuel filter.
31 - Connect the “new” long hose to the “IN” side of the fuel filter.
32- using a spanner wrench remove the fuel pump locking ring. (I purchased a spanner from Amazon, it’s not the best, but it did the job)

33 - Remove the fuel pump (takes a bit of jiggling) and cover the opening in the tank with plastic to prevent debris from getting in the tank. Blow off the pump with shop air or allow it to air out.
34 - Referring the FK video ……….. 1st take a picture of the routing of the Blk, Yel, Blu and Red wires, then gently unplug and remove the three wire connectors, then unwrap the wires them from the plastic retaining hook, unclip the fuel level float and set aside.
35 - Pry the three tabs holding the lower bucket to the rest of the fuel pump, then pry up the three “yellow” tabs and jiggle the fuel pump out of the bottom bucket. (I marked the alignment with a sharpie, but I don’t know if it was necessary). The small corrugated hose with the lite blue connector, is the only one that needs to be removed from the OEM pump. Mark and cut the bottom bucket in accordance with the FK video. Installing the new hoses is quite daunting, heating the end up with a heat gun and forcing it over the barbed fitting. Heat the “new” smaller hose and force over the barb. Heat the larger hose end and force over the barb in the top plate. With careful alignment reassemble the bottom bucket, the new valve (Has the small hose and a larger hose preinstalled from FX) and fuel pump.

36 - Clean the “O” ring mounting surface and place the “O” ring in the grove. Insert the fuel pump assembly into the hole making sure the two alignment tabs are aligned with the slots in the tank’s locking surface. While holding the pump assembly down start the locking ring by hand. (use only enough downward pressure to seat the pump). Use the spanner to tighten the locking ring. There are alignment arrows to verify you installed it correctly (arrows align when tight).
37 - Position the fuel tank for reinstallation, raise the tank to a point that you can still make connections.
38 - Connect the “new” short fuel hose (other end is connected to the fuel filter) to the top of the fuel pump where the “fuel pressure sensor” was previously connected.

39 - Route and secure with zipties the fuel pressure extension wire in the channel
40 - Connect the “Violet” Keeper.
41 - Connect the “Gray” Keeper.
42 - Connect the “Red” Keeper.
43 - Raise the tank and reinstall the “tank straps”.
44 - Reconnect Fuel pump electrical connectors.
45 - Reposition grounding strap.

45 - Install the fuel pressure sensor on the Aux tank (insuring the “O” ring is installed under the fitting)
46 - Remove the Vapor canister line cover and Install the “O” ring and the new fitting.

47 - Remove the OEM skid plates
48 - Support transmission with a jack.
49 - Remove transmission cross member/mount (4 long bolts/nuts and 4 bolts into the transmission). (getting the plastic cover off to allow the removal of the transmission bolts, is a mystery, I ended up breaking two of the plastic tabs and will have to replace the cover).
50 - Remove this bracket two bolts (12mm) No where in the FK video does it tell you to remove this but it must come off in order for the tank to clear the driveshaft)

51 - Remove the Dvr’s side rear Torsen bar mount bolt.
52- Install the front Aux tank mounting bracket, reusing the OEM Torsen bar mount bolt (do not tighten yet)
53 - Raise Aux tank into place and loosely install the front two mounting bolts. I used a ratchet strap to pull the transfer case/transmission to the passenger’s side slightly in order to get the Aux tank to fit up into the space.
54 - Pop out the plastic covers from the frame to allow you to insert the “fishing nuts”
55 - Using one of the larger FK supplied “fishing” nuts, loosely install one of the rear/side mounting bolts.
56 - Using one of the smaller FK supplied “fishing” nuts, loosely install the other rear/side mounting bolt.
57 - Reinstall transmission cross member/mount. (Note leave the jack holding up the transmission and start the 4 transmission bolts into the transmission and finger tight) Use a jack and raise the cross member and insert one of the outer bolts, switch the jack to the other side and insert both bolts and finally insert the last bolt. Tighten/torque the 4 transmission bolts and lastly the 4 cross member bolts and nuts.
58 - Do a torque test for the Torsen bar mount bolt, cross member bolts.
59 - Insert the FK large spacer, washer and long bolt, through the Transmission cross member and into the Aux tank threaded bolt hole.
60 - Connect all the tubes/hoses to the Aux tank and install the “long tube” mount on top of the Dvr’s side frame (best of luck with fishing that nut in there). Do not tighten the rubber “L” hose clamps.
61 - tighten /torque all the Aux tank mounting bolts.
62 - Mounting / routing of the long metal tube and, corrugated “T” tube and the long tube with the white plastic coupler are mounted/ran on top of the dvr’s side frame rail. It’s hard to determine watching the FX video.

63 - Tighten the two hose clamps.
64 - Install the short-corrugated cross over fuel line to the new tank.
65 - Zip tie everything.
66 - Install Skid plates.
67 - Reinstall the heat shields.
68 - Reinstall exhaust pipe.
69 - Do a final nut and bolt check.
70 - Install the Aux tank cross-over fuel line protective cover using “fish nuts”. Which required some machining to the rock rail spacers I installed previously. Took an extra step but everything mounted flush. With my FE the side bolt on the new cover reused one of the rock rail mounting bolts vs a "fish nut".
80 - If you did a DIY install, step back and admire your work.

 

[mayonayze]

 

[chris_in_phx]

My first mod: I was in the back today and the curtesy lights in the rear hatch would not go off. Removed the rear hatch trim piece and installed a switch in the power side of the existing curtesy wiring.

Well thats cool.

Is that the sub in the prem pkg?

 

[EOD Guy]

Well thats cool.

Is that the sub in the prem pkg?

It's an FE

 

[DD214]

Congrats on your LC FE. I hope it’s everything you expected if not more!

 

[El Chorizo]

That's really cool. Do you want me to move this to the build thread area and give it the prefix?

 

[EOD Guy]

That's really cool. Do you want me to move this to the build thread area and give it the prefix?

Sure

 

[BigMF]

Love the compressor install! Where'd you get the button for the dash?

 

[Ayork]

Damn that’s exactly what I want to do with my compressor! Did you fabricate the mount etc yourself?

 

[EOD Guy]

Love the compressor install! Where'd you get the button for the dash?

Square OEM-Style Push Switches for Toyota | CH4X4

Square push switches for the square factory openings in late-model Toyotas — Tacoma, Tundra, 4Runner, Prado. Laser-etched, LED backlit.

ch4x4.com

 

[EOD Guy]

Damn that’s exactly what I want to do with my compressor! Did you fabricate the mount etc yourself?

Yes, It was pretty simple as I always use existing bolts/holes and had to fabricate some standoffs to make it level.

 

[TumaloCruzer]

Yes, It was pretty simple as I always use existing bolts/holes and had to fabricate some standoffs to make it level.

Where did you draw power from, the relay/fuse box next to it, maybe the relay where the jump terminal is on the other side of the bay?

 

[EOD Guy]

The power distro box on the passenger side, where the cable for the starter enters the box. There are two little tabs that you can depress and the corner cover comes off (corner of the box is still there but the cover covering the cable bolt lifts straight up) I'm waiting on some 6 gage cable. The brand new cable that I've had for a few years but never unwrapped, had corrosion all through it and I threw a brand new 100' roll in the trash.

Once the cover comes of you'll see the 12v feed lug and the starter cable lug. I plan to fabricate a terminal extension out of stainless to mimic the starter cable terminal and use a die grinder to make room for the new terminal and cable. Picture above.

 

[TumaloCruzer]

Once the cover comes of you'll see the 12v feed lug and the start cable lug.

Is the 12v feed a power source already being used by the vehicle to power some things, or is this an extra 12v aux source for added accessories? The shop that will install my winch (and onboard air) prefers not to piggy back and add extra load to a line. They're talking about running their own 12v line from the back, but if Toyota is providing this I don't want to duplicate.

 

[EOD Guy]

Is the 12v feed a power source already being used by the vehicle to power some things, or is this an extra 12v aux source for added accessories? The shop that will install my winch (and onboard air) prefers not to piggy back and add extra load to a line. They're talking about running their own 12v line from the back, but if Toyota is providing this I don't want to duplicate.

I haven't verified this, but I believe the inaccessible cable on the buss (there are two) is the main cable back to the 12v battery and the 2nd cable on the buss goes to the 12v starter motor. So in theory the 1st cables powers the two power distribution boxes under the hood. and the 2nd powers the 12v starter.

If I install a winch I may run a cable back to the battery but for the air compressor, lights and power running boards, I feel comfortable with tying into the buss.