Don’t you need the data plan when you use these “remote” control features like lock/unlocked/climate… etc? I also have multiple devices like tablet and dashcam… etc that requires networks to be fully functional so I decided to pay for it anyway. But that is potentially replaceable by a hotspot modem later so I think at some point I might drop it too.
Wifi/Carplay/AA/Toyota Subscriptions
- Thread starter Don
- Start date
If I understand it correctly, it operates basically like the following:
The vehicle needs a cellular connection to provide connected services and has built in antenna/transmitter, gps, and telemetrics hardware. After your trial period, you must purchase a service plan from Toyota for one or more of the connected services which includes the basic cellular connectivity from AT&T to the car in order to provide the features to the vehicle and paired smartphone app.
In addition, the wi-fi connect service sold separately or within a bndle also provides a wi-fi network within the vehicle and enables it to operate as a shared hot spot. Some of the added benefits include the ability to connect up to five devices (phones, laptops, tablets etc.) with different operating systems (IOS/Android, MacOS/Windows/Linux), a separate dedicated phone number for the vehicle, a high performance 4G consolidated cellular connection, unlimited data plans, integrated streaming with Apple and Amazon, and all the other things you can do with a shared network.
The vehicle needs a cellular connection to provide connected services and has built in antenna/transmitter, gps, and telemetrics hardware. After your trial period, you must purchase a service plan from Toyota for one or more of the connected services which includes the basic cellular connectivity from AT&T to the car in order to provide the features to the vehicle and paired smartphone app.
In addition, the wi-fi connect service sold separately or within a bndle also provides a wi-fi network within the vehicle and enables it to operate as a shared hot spot. Some of the added benefits include the ability to connect up to five devices (phones, laptops, tablets etc.) with different operating systems (IOS/Android, MacOS/Windows/Linux), a separate dedicated phone number for the vehicle, a high performance 4G consolidated cellular connection, unlimited data plans, integrated streaming with Apple and Amazon, and all the other things you can do with a shared network.
The only reason for the Wi-Fi subscription is for Apple or Amazon music, and to use as a hotspot. Your phone cannot be used as a hotspot if you are using wireless CarPlay or android play because they set up a Peer to Peer Wi-Fi network that is invisible on your phone, but makes the Wi-Fi appear disabled.
In the multimedia manual, chapter 7 describes which services use the different types of data your car supplies. There is a cellular connection in your car that works with service connect and remote connect and other things which may or may not require a subscription. This is referred to as DCM data.
In the multimedia manual, chapter 7 describes which services use the different types of data your car supplies. There is a cellular connection in your car that works with service connect and remote connect and other things which may or may not require a subscription. This is referred to as DCM data.
I have an iPhone 11 Pro (I know, I know 
) and no subscriptions. I have an unlimited data plan and just use that. No need for anything else as far as I know to get remote start, locking, etc. to work and to use Carplay.
The only thing I do notice is that after using remote start, I see the weird "WiFi connection interrupted, try again" message. I hit retry, and then it goes away. If it reconnects then Carplay works fine (after about a 10 second pause..assuming it's reconnecting), if not, I go into the settings for my profile and enable the "use for Carplay" slider and all is fine.
Not sure if this helps anyone, but I was stuck on "why can't I use carplay after remote starting" and figured out that it seems like if that wifi connection is lost and doesn't reconnect you have to get into your settings and re-enable it.
) and no subscriptions. I have an unlimited data plan and just use that. No need for anything else as far as I know to get remote start, locking, etc. to work and to use Carplay.The only thing I do notice is that after using remote start, I see the weird "WiFi connection interrupted, try again" message. I hit retry, and then it goes away. If it reconnects then Carplay works fine (after about a 10 second pause..assuming it's reconnecting), if not, I go into the settings for my profile and enable the "use for Carplay" slider and all is fine.
Not sure if this helps anyone, but I was stuck on "why can't I use carplay after remote starting" and figured out that it seems like if that wifi connection is lost and doesn't reconnect you have to get into your settings and re-enable it.
After a remote start you have to go here and re-enableI have an iPhone 11 Pro (I know, I know
The only thing I do notice is that after using remote start, I see the weird "WiFi connection interrupted, try again" message. I hit retry, and then it goes away. If it reconnects then Carplay works fine (after about a 10 second pause..assuming it's reconnecting), if not, I go into the settings for my profile and enable the "use for Carplay" slider and all is fine.
Not sure if this helps anyone, but I was stuck on "why can't I use carplay after remote starting" and figured out that it seems like if that wifi connection is lost and doesn't reconnect you have to get into your settings and re-enable it.
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Yes to what Captain wrote above, that’s what I do and it works.
What confuses me is that sometimes I have to this and sometimes I don’t. Sometimes CarPlay just works with no need to go to settings.
What I can’t figure out is why it needs to be turned back on in settings and sometimes. If I understood what is causing the difference, maybe I could always connect automatically. I suspect the difference is when I am patient and wait, if I get it, for the Toyota app to ask if I want the app to connect.
What confuses me is that sometimes I have to this and sometimes I don’t. Sometimes CarPlay just works with no need to go to settings.
What I can’t figure out is why it needs to be turned back on in settings and sometimes. If I understood what is causing the difference, maybe I could always connect automatically. I suspect the difference is when I am patient and wait, if I get it, for the Toyota app to ask if I want the app to connect.
I have this problem every time I do remote start. As mentioned above, I usually just enable Use CarPlay, and it works, but this morning, it didn't work, and now I can't get CarPlay to work at all. Even after restarting the car and forgetting the device. It is annoying.
Well, now even this stopped working for me. No CarPlay at all.
The only way I can get it to work is to forget my profile/connection with my phone and then re-pair it again. Then, after one app generated remote start, LC see says no Bluetooth connection available. I have tried rebooting the head unit by holding the power button, does no good. Tried going to BT connections on my iPhone setting, and it won’t connect. The only thing that works is to forget and re-pair my phone. Then, if I use remote start through the app, all is lost.
It’s a shame, because I was willing to pay when my trial ran out. I liked started my car when returning to the airport lot on the shuttle after a few days so LC was warmed up when I got in.
Between this and my squeezing brakes, my impression of Toyota as a top quality brand is tarnished. Not bad, but tarnished. Prior to LC, we had 7 Acuras with literally zero issues; just basic maintenance.
Did the Acuras have Apple Car Play?
With all the problems people are having with Apple Car Play, has anyone called Apple Support for help or guidance?
Yes, my ‘22 MDX had wireless CarPlay and it worked flawlessly.
And in the weirdest turn, after having no CarPlay for 4-5 days, this morning I used the app to start and warm up my car, and CarPlay was there.
There must be some obscure combination of settings and/or activities that enable or kill access. Some secret combo that Toyota has an exclusive on.
BTW, are you also on ADV Rider? Sold my GS a few years ago but still visit once in a while as it’s a smart group to go to for advice for all kinds of “shiny things”. Saw an Ultane on there.
I agree, there is some secret handshake or dance that must be done, for it to work right. The other day I commented that ACP was working great after a recent iOS update… the next day, it was funky again.. yesterday, it was fine..
Yes.. that ULTANE is me. I’ve been on ADV since before I bought Gretchen new (‘07 GSA). It used to be a great forum when Baldy owned it. Many have jumped ship, especially after being banned by the current PC mods, for stupid reasons. They migrated to ADVbikes.com.
I actually disabled wireless Android Auto from my phone because it was too unreliable…even it quickly connected, sometimes it would disconnect mid-trip, which is annoying to deal with once I’m already driving… if I want to use AA, I just plug in the USB cable and it works flawlessly.
Edit: A few times, my entire head unit would reboot when using wireless AA…I’m not actually sure if wireless AA was to blame, but it hasn’t happened since I started using wired AA only
Edit: A few times, my entire head unit would reboot when using wireless AA…I’m not actually sure if wireless AA was to blame, but it hasn’t happened since I started using wired AA only
Does anybody else think the standard Toyota apps for maps, phone, music etc. are better than Android Auto or Apple Carplay? So far, they seem nicer, more stable, and easier to use.
For the record, I have never owned a vehicle of any brand where AA or AC work really well. I also know there main benefit is being able to run other apps from the phone. However, for the basics I think Toyota has caught up or in some ways surpassed them and they may not be worth the hassle anymore. I may just default to Toyota and launch AA if I need a specific app with features not offered.
Thoughts?
For the record, I have never owned a vehicle of any brand where AA or AC work really well. I also know there main benefit is being able to run other apps from the phone. However, for the basics I think Toyota has caught up or in some ways surpassed them and they may not be worth the hassle anymore. I may just default to Toyota and launch AA if I need a specific app with features not offered.
Thoughts?
For what it's worth, I use Apple Car Play, remote start, Toyota app features, etc., with no Wifi subscription, no issues. The only weird thing I experience is that after using remote start I need to re-enable using Apple Carplay in the settings. Other than that, no problems.
Wireless CarPlay relies on two key technologies for its functionality: Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. Bluetooth is used for initial pairing and establishing a connection between your iPhone and your car’s infotainment system, while Wi-Fi allows for a high-speed and reliable wireless data transfer between the two devices.
The first step in the Wireless CarPlay process is the establishment of a Bluetooth connection between your smartphone and the car’s infotainment system. This connection is used to transfer basic information such as the phone’s identity, phone book, and music library. Bluetooth is used for the initial setup and for transferring small amounts of data.
Once the Bluetooth connection is established, the car’s infotainment system uses Wi-Fi to establish a high-speed internet connection. This connection is used to transfer larger amounts of data, such as video and audio signals, between your smartphone and the car’s infotainment system.
Your iPhone still needs to be in proximity to your car for the wireless connection to work.
The first step in the Wireless CarPlay process is the establishment of a Bluetooth connection between your smartphone and the car’s infotainment system. This connection is used to transfer basic information such as the phone’s identity, phone book, and music library. Bluetooth is used for the initial setup and for transferring small amounts of data.
Once the Bluetooth connection is established, the car’s infotainment system uses Wi-Fi to establish a high-speed internet connection. This connection is used to transfer larger amounts of data, such as video and audio signals, between your smartphone and the car’s infotainment system.
Your iPhone still needs to be in proximity to your car for the wireless connection to work.
I can’t speak to the other functions but Toyota’s Map is a big zero for me. The traffic indication will show green while I am stopped on a highway due to congestion., or in stop and go traffic. When I pull up Google maps on my phone while also looking at the green roads on Toyota’s map, Google accurately shows red, or orange. Has happened 3-4 times to me and so I only use it when Toyota’s wireless CarPlay connection fails during most remote starts. I don’t know how Toyota gauges traffic, I assume Google maps does it via a live read of cars on the road due to wide adoption. I live in St. Louis which has just shy of 3 million population for the metro area, so maybe that is too small a market for Toyota to use the same method. But if it can’t serve a 3M population market then that limits its value to maybe the top 15-20 DMAs.
One time when I had a 20 mile drive on a congested highway I had Toyoata’s map on the big screen and Google Maps going on my phone. Toyota’s estimate of my ETA was off by a lot and did not get accurate until I was 3-4 minutes away from arriving while Google was within 2 minutes.
Pretty map by Toyota, but missing traffic and inaccurate ETAs are a deal breaker for me other than putting around near my house when I know the route and know the rough travel time.
That said, the directions seem to work accurately and I love how directions display on my HUD, which is very convenient. I just wish it worked accurately for traffic and ETAs.
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Also, Toyota's map only works with a cellphone signal present, once you are out beyond cell coverage, which is hopefully often in this vehicle, the maps stop working. As far as I can tell, it has no way to download maps for offline use unlike Google, OnX, etc.
Android auto doesnt work at all on mine if i have VPN running on phone. Maybe others have this issue and dont realize. Our mercedes works perfectly every time wirelessly with carplay and android. Toyota LC is worse connectivity ive experienced and ive used AA in 50+ rental cars. Hopefully they sort this out soon.
Which could make sense if the VPN is set to route all traffic, since wireless AA uses the wifi radio to create a local connection to your infotainment unit. I'm not sure if there's a control to disable VPN routing that Toyota isn't using (but other vehicle manufacturers are?), but you would need something like that in order for it to work, I'd assume.
Since winter is over and I use remote start only when my LC has sat outside in 90s+ heat most of day I have found a "faster" way to re-activate Carplay after a remote start. I power off my iPhone. Reboot the main display (hold volume button in until the screen blanks and resets), power my phone on, and then the small Carplay icon re-appears on the top of the icon stack on the left side of the screen. Inconvenient, but for cold winter mornings to get the LC warmed up, or cooled in extreme heat, worth it. At least until, or if ever, a software fix comes out.
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