Mine is auto lift, but a button could be used to unlock the hatch then the kick lift could be used.
Open hatch window from inside
- Thread starter jenos96
- Start date
The guy from Ed Martin's Toyota has a really cool looking two-button configuration on the inside of the hatch. One to open the glass and the other to open the hatch. I thought he was going to post the process in one of his YouTube videos but he responded to my comment saying there wasn't enough interest.
Perhaps if you comment in his YouTube video, he'll show the hookup process for the two buttons.
I know he's a member here but I don't know member ID to tag him in this post.https://youtu.be/srAkP1ycx8U?si=in4xoHpXgc834dKT
Perhaps if you comment in his YouTube video, he'll show the hookup process for the two buttons.
I know he's a member here but I don't know member ID to tag him in this post.https://youtu.be/srAkP1ycx8U?si=in4xoHpXgc834dKT
On the OEM hatch switch there are 4 wires. I mirrored those 4 wires (breakout harness) and used a hatch switch from a Highlander ($20 bucks off ebay). I didn't want my switches on the hatch trim panel, so I mirrored the hatch switch from the dash.
I have a 58 with a manual hatch lift. I don't know for sure but I don't think I have the same wires you have.
Maybe it's not possible with a 58 or just much more difficult? I don't mind even if they were mechanical switches and non-electrical as long as they were on the inside so that when I'm car camping I can open either one...
My thought....... If you remove the rear hatch trim panel and find the unlocking switch wires (the one on the outside), there should be at least two wires leading from the external unlocking switch. There should be a plastic connector........... Use a screw driver or other object and manually lock the latch (with the hatch remaining open), disconnect the plastic connector and press the unlock switch, if nothing happens you have the correct connector.
The following is how I would proceed, but there is a chance of blowing a fuse, so proceed at your own discretion.
If there are only two wires, the switch is completing the circuit, to verify this......... manually lock the catch, on the body side of the connector (not the switch side) simply use a jumper wire to complete the circuit across the connector. It should unlock.
If there are 4 wires, use the center two.
If you get the lock to unlock using a jumper wire, you simply sister the two wires to a second switch.
Personally, I wanted both and I assume when I visited Eric at Ed Martins and I explained my set up, he did the same thing. My thought was ......... might need ventilation at night so pop the glass and needed a way to egress in case of emergency (my set up pops the glass regardless if the doors are locked or not). I also wanted to actually open the hatch from the inside not using a FOB.
Ed Martin LC 250 Mod video shows added internal hatch and lift buttons at 12:14
Yes I know and they look awesome. I was hoping he would show "how" he installed them...
I think there are at least two threads on this concept - while I have seen discussion of how to open the glass from the inside - has there been any discussion of "Once open, how to close the glass from the inside"?
Again - not the whole hatch (I am fine with the key fob for that), just the glass.
Or is it not possible and just something like the ventlock to pull it down and attach (so limited to whatever the smallest of those can buy/build)?
Again - not the whole hatch (I am fine with the key fob for that), just the glass.
Or is it not possible and just something like the ventlock to pull it down and attach (so limited to whatever the smallest of those can buy/build)?
I use a paracord loop around the wiper arm and secured to the inside to allow a few inches of space while sleeping. If I need to close it, due to rain, I allow it to open several inches and yank it shut.
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