OME BP51 Install

[74cruzah]

Any specific watch outs for install? I’ll be doing my MT-64 with UCA’s soon.

Looks straight forward, but always helps to ask.

Your LC looks great! Love the color!

It's very straight forward. Definitely something a DIYer can handle. If you're using heavy duty rear springs you might want a spring compressor, but probably not necessary with medium duty like I used.

The driver side UCA is the only thing that's a little tricky. You'll need to undo the hose for the intercooler. It's still a tight fit. I used a small pry bar and gave it just a little pressure and got the bolt in.

This is the first OME kit that I've done that came with instructions. They're way better than their bull bar instructions!

Good luck!

 

[t3lcfe]

It's very close to 3" in the front. About 2.5 in the rear.

3” lifted in the front, did you do diff dropped at all ?

 

[biltor]

3” lifted in the front, did you do diff dropped at all ?

I’ve read in several places that ARB/OME says the angles are ok even at 3” lift. Once I get mine on, I’m going to check for myself just to feel more confident.

 

[Insanoflexathf]

Adding a few install questions here. I’m currently in the middle of installing the BP-51s and I’m having a few issues.

1. How do you get the lower bushing reducers to stay in the bearings at the bottom of the shock? I used a vice to get them to slide in, along with some grease, but I’m worried about putting too much pressure and breaking something.

2. You mention using a strut compressor rather than an external spring compressor to compress the shocks. IS that recommendation just for safety? I was using external spring compressors, but I can’t seem to get the spring to compress enough to pull away from the top in order for me to change the factory 20 mm to 25mm (which is recommended for the setup with the winch I have.)

3. Did you have to disconnect the sway bar or disconnect the lower control arm to help get the front shocks installed? Even with the top fully installed, the lower eyebolt is too far down to have it reconnect to the lower control arm.

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks in advance for any guidance that someone can offer.

 

[imann777]

Badgers are cool little bastards.

He was looking at the EMU

 

[WeGo250]

Adding a few install questions here. I’m currently in the middle of installing the BP-51s and I’m having a few issues.

1. How do you get the lower bushing reducers to stay in the bearings at the bottom of the shock? I used a vice to get them to slide in, along with some grease, but I’m worried about putting too much pressure and breaking something.

2. You mention using a strut compressor rather than an external spring compressor to compress the shocks. IS that recommendation just for safety? I was using external spring compressors, but I can’t seem to get the spring to compress enough to pull away from the top in order for me to change the factory 20 mm to 25mm (which is recommended for the setup with the winch I have.)

3. Did you have to disconnect the sway bar or disconnect the lower control arm to help get the front shocks installed? Even with the top fully installed, the lower eyebolt is too far down to have it reconnect to the lower control arm.

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks in advance for any guidance that someone can offer.

I had these installed for a while.....

The lower bushings don't need to be pressed in etc., just simple in the stack up when you tighten that lower strut to lower control arm bolt.

A good set of spring compressors is fine, it's what I used. A bad set will mar the hell out of the struts.

Sway bar does not need to be disconnected. With the factory upper control arms you'll want to loosen their through bolt just enough to push the upper CA up a bit and out of the way after you disconnect the upper CA from the spindle. Basically disconnect the spindle and push the upper CA up and out of the way and the strut comes right out.

 

[Insanoflexathf]

I had these installed for a while.....

The lower bushings don't need to be pressed in etc., just simple in the stack up when you tighten that lower strut to lower control arm bolt.

A good set of spring compressors is fine, it's what I used. A bad set will mar the hell out of the struts.

Sway bar does not need to be disconnected. With the factory upper control arms you'll want to loosen their through bolt just enough to push the upper CA up a bit and out of the way after you disconnect the upper CA from the spindle. Basically disconnect the spindle and push the upper CA up and out of the way and the strut comes right out.

Thanks for the info. My biggest issue is getting the new BP-51 strut back into the space. Because it’s a larger size it doesn’t slip back in with ease.

 

[Mtn40]

When I pulled the coil overs out I removed the tie rod end from the knuckle and that have me all the room I needed without undoing the UCA ball joint from the knuckle.

 

[Insanoflexathf]

Thank you, let me give that a shot

 

[Calokie]

happy to take these measurements when i get a chance!

i will say, when i first installed the BP-51, it was at 24" in the fronts, hub center to fender, so the nose was "bro lifted" haha. it has settled a bit and i am now at 23.5 on all 4 corners. I think it's perfect here and ready for larger tires soon.

zero UCA spring contact though both with stock and OME at full droop.

I am installing a diff drop this weekend.

Hows that diff drop install? Im interested in seeing you CV angles. I have my new BP51s setting in my shed and my LC has been at the collision center going on 3 weeks. I'll be doing a 2-2.5 inch in the front with a diffdrop. Yea they say the CV angle is fine up to 3 inches but why wouldn't you want a diff drop to level out the CV angle and hopefully lowering the chances of popping a CV.

 

[74cruzah]

I didn't have to compress the front springs when I installed them. Honestly, it was the easiest Toyota coilover install I've done that wasn't a stock replacement. I didn't disconnect the sway bar or the tie rod. The tie rod looked like it would only allow a little easier positioning, but didn't look like it would allow for more droop so I skipped that step. Almost every other OME Toyota that I've installed has required disconnected the lower control arm at the ball joint.

 

[jbtaco2002]

Hows that diff drop install? Im interested in seeing you CV angles. I have my new BP51s setting in my shed and my LC has been at the collision center going on 3 weeks. I'll be doing a 2-2.5 inch in the front with a diffdrop. Yea they say the CV angle is fine up to 3 inches but why wouldn't you want a diff drop to level out the CV angle and hopefully lowering the chances of popping a CV.

Here's a picture of the driver's side.

I honestly think the diff drop was a waste of money for minimal peace of mind.

Should have just bought GX/T4R high angle CVs

 

[Calokie]

Here's a picture of the driver's side.

I honestly think the diff drop was a waste of money for minimal peace of mind.

Should have just bought GX/T4R high angle CVs
View attachment 55722

Interesting not a huge difference, I’ll have to look up those GX T4R

 

[WeGo250]

Here's a picture of the driver's side.

I honestly think the diff drop was a waste of money for minimal peace of mind.

Should have just bought GX/T4R high angle CVs
View attachment 55722

I agree! I honestly don't even know if you can visually tell there's a difference in angle....

 

[t3lcfe]

I agree! I honestly don't even know if you can visually tell there's a difference in angle....

Save your $ for diff dropped if you just do light-medium off-roading or just MC

The $ spent on diff dropped is not waste if you do medium-heavy off-roading.

Don’t just say “waste” or “must do”. Keep it ourself / yourself. A lot of people just arguing and judging all kind of things with thousands of endless words but no illustrations/ photos (media)

Attached are before and after diff dropped which I posted a while ago in diff dropped / lifted thread . Hope it helps someone to make decisions

Happy Holidays and LC to All

 

[Calokie]

Save your $ for diff dropped if you just do light-medium off-roading or just MC

The $ spent on diff dropped is not waste if you do medium-heavy off-roading.

Don’t just say “waste” or “must do”. Keep it ourself / yourself. A lot of people just arguing and judging all kind of things with thousands of endless words but no illustrations/ photos (media)

Attached are before and after diff dropped which I posted a while ago in diff dropped / lifted thread . Hope it helps someone to make decisions

Happy Holidays and LC to All

Thanks !
I’ll be doing one,

 

[Insanoflexathf]

Finally finished with the full ARB OME BP-51 suspension lift. I went with the heavy duty rear springs because I ordered the Victory 4x4 rear strike bumper with dual swing outs. It should be arriving next week.

 

[LCOceans]

Great looking rig! How does the OME suspension feel compared to your stock suspension?

 

[RideWithYanu]

Finally finished with the full ARB OME BP-51 suspension lift. I went with the heavy duty rear springs because I ordered the Victory 4x4 rear strike bumper with dual swing outs. It should be arriving next week.

Coming together very nicely! As my rear bumper slowly loses more and more plastic trim pieces, I am realizing a steel bumper is likely in my future.

 

[Calokie]

Coming together very nicely! As my rear bumper slowly loses more and more plastic trim pieces, and I am realizing a steel bumper is likely in my future.

It’s the natural shedding stage prior to metamorphosis