MPGs - Many People Griping - A Foundational Knowledge Primer To Assist in Better Efficiency

COSmurf

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Jun 14, 2025
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Land Cruiser First Edition
There is a lot of conversation around the small gas tank and bad gas mileage (and correspondingly low overall range) for the LC250 so I figured it might be useful to address some of the basics around how the forced induction impacts fuel consumption so people can adjust their expectations and behaviors.

"Well anybody who can afford this car, shouldn't care about gas mileage because they can afford the gas!" - Well I most definitely can afford the gas, and premium at that, but being very far off of advertised EPA estimates is worthy of being upsetting even if one can afford to pay for gas and expensive gas even.

"The hybrid system in the LC250 isn't designed for fuel efficiency, but for low end power, so get over it". - Well yes, it's not BIASED toward the explicit goal of extracting maximum fuel efficiency, but by definition, the electric boost results in recaptured energy otherwise wasted and dissipated as heat via the brakes, and instead adds torque and power to the wheels, which necessarily translates to forward motion that otherwise wouldn't exist in the absence of the hybrid system. So either way, it generates more power and forward motion vs a non-hybrid system, even if its BIAS is more for supplementing power or filling holes in the power band while the turbo spools, etc.

"Toyota is silly, their ECO mode isn't actually better for MPGs, put it in Normal or Sport mode". - I love how people extoll the virtues of Toyota engineering and how they are very intentional with design and then decide that they actually programmed ECO mode to be less economical than Normal or Sport because they don't like the slower responses and compensate by being heavy footed during ECO mode and end up keeping the motor in boost a lot and wonder why ECO isn't getting them better mileage. You can't counteract ECO by being lead footed to offset slightly slower responses and acceleration, it's self defeating.

Without splitting hairs too finely and getting down to stoichiometric specifics regarding rich vs lean air fuel ratios run on the T24A - FTS, one can use the engine displacement (2.4L), compression ratio (11.0:1) and various boost pressures of the turbo, to get some understanding of back of the envelope naturally aspirated equivalent for various boost pressures from the turbo. After all, engines and the way they generate power is all just a giant pump of air and fuel. Think of the turbo as displacement on demand. So here we go:

1) No boost - 2.4L engine
2) 10 PSI boost - 4.03L engine
3) 15 PSI boost - 4.85L engine
4) 20 PSI boost - 6.07L engine

So if you're easy on the pedal and more importantly in ECO mode and driving smoothly (vs abruptly accelerating and winding up the turbo boost pressures), it consumes the fuel equivalent of the above stated naturally aspirated engines at the various loads described. If you're constantly at 10 PSI of boost, you're roughly ingesting and burning up the air/fuel of a 4L engine for those moments. The car is too heavy and big to be operating as solely a 2.4L 4 cylinder, for lots of the time, but to be under low single digits of boost for periods vs 10+ lbs makes quite a difference for fuel economy. I never hesitate to call on its full power when I need to accelerate quickly, I am merely pointing this out to the countless people who are confused as to why their fuel economy is low when they wind up the motor quite often and spend a lot of time in boost. Separately, the hybrid electric assist can also be thought of as additional displacement equivalent roughly equating to ~0.8L across the entire range. so factor that in as well (but this doesn't cost us any additional fuel, so is really quite a neat perk). Now add that back in and suddenly being a 2.4L supplemented by a 0.8L of equivalent electric power sounds a lot more reasonable at 3.2L displacement equivalent.

Fuelly shows an average of ~19 MPGs mixed for the LC250 and I think between this forum and that site, there is selection bias for LC/car enthusiasts that have a penchant for modifying their cars and in the case of the LC, typically upsizing their wheels and tires and lifting them, adding armor etc, which reduces MPGs. With stock suspension and tires, the LC has no issues being able to reach its EPA ratings if driven reasonably, and without calling on its full power potential constantly.
 
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Going easy on the pedal does wonders for MPG.
 
IMHO............ Everybody wishes the LC got 30 MPG, but that's just wishful thinking.
Few people will permanently alter their driving habits in order to achieve maximum MPG.
Many people will explain why some get better or worse MPG and what others should do to fix it.
Many more will just complain about something................
The rest of us just enjoy our LCs and look fly while doing it.
 
I'm getting poor efficiency on long trips at constant speeds, not when accelerating around town.
 
Thanks for the review. I quite like the engine and its design was one of the reasons we bought the LC. While I am not happy with the small gas tank and modest range I have been very happy with the fuel economy and the engines power delivery. Our fuel economy was about 21.5 mpg through the cold winter with rook rack and winter tires. It was a bit over 23 mpg on an uncharacteristically windy 2500 mile trip across Canada on the stock geolanders, and has been better than 26 mpg over the last 6 weeks while we have been in Ontario.

I tell folks that the engine is like having a small diesel lots of low end torque not fast and like a diesel you stay in the low rpm’s. I think it’s an excellent engine that suits the “cruiser” nature of the vehicle.
 
If constant speed is somewhere near 80 mph, that's a recipe for low mileage. I can certainly corroborate the anecdotal evidence that keeping below 80 mph on the freeways helps quite significantly.
If you have the boost gauge up and see what the car is doing at constant speeds above 80 MPH, you can see that you’re likely operating on a 4.0+ liter V8’s worth of air/fuel based on turbo boost per my original post for this thread.

If you’re on much higher rolling resistance tires, have dramatically increased the unsprung weight and rotational mass, lifted the truck… it’s likely that the speed at which the turbo must constantly be boosting above 8-10 PSI is even lower than 80 MPH… probably more like 70 MPH or lower. If you put 35” tires that weigh 20+ lbs more each where 32.6” road biased tires once were, you should not be surprised or complain about a 5-6 MPG decline if driving spiritedly.

That being said, I’m astounded by the hybrids ability to overcome and compensate for my E Load tires in a 33”+ size and still return tank mixed averages of 21 MPG in my case. It’s truly incredible.
 
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"Toyota is silly, their ECO mode isn't actually better for MPGs, put it in Normal or Sport mode". - I love how people extoll the virtues of Toyota engineering and how they are very intentional with design and then decide that they actually programmed ECO mode to be less economical than Normal or Sport because they don't like the slower responses and compensate by being heavy footed during ECO mode and end up keeping the motor in boost a lot and wonder why ECO isn't getting them better mileage. You can't counteract ECO by being lead footed to offset slightly slower responses and acceleration, it's self defeating.
I'm certainly one of those folks who, when responding to post where an owner is griping about MPGs and claiming that they "always drive in ECO mode", will suggest they try switching to "NORMAL mode" and see if that's actually better...

I don't claim that's because of faulty programming or stupidity on Toyota's part, but it is because you're absolutely right...it can be counteractive to using ECO mode if you're also over-compensating for the decreased throttle sensitivity by constantly flooring the gas pedal.

I personally don't use ECO mode because it doesn't fit with my personal driving style and diminishes my driving experience....potentially saving a few $$$ on gas isn't enough to motivate me to drive in ECO, it just feels too artificially sluggish.
 
Along the lines of driving styles and efficiency; what is the best breaking style to maximize energy regen?

I've never owned a hybrid before and just assumed that gentle breaking is the best method. Is that true?
 
Along the lines of driving styles and efficiency; what is the best breaking style to maximize energy regen?

I've never owned a hybrid before and just assumed that gentle breaking is the best method. Is that true?
Yep, you’ve got it right, as far as I can tell based on my understanding of how the vehicle works and my observations operating it over the past 7k miles.

If you brake too softly, you may get minimal regen, but if you brake too hard, the friction brakes override regen almost entirely. The sweet spot is anticipating stops early and applying steady, moderate pressure, which gives the system enough deceleration demand to maximize regeneration while avoiding wasteful heat in the pads. Smooth and measured braking is your best bet for capturing the most energy.
 
Yep, you’ve got it right, as far as I can tell based on my understanding of how the vehicle works and my observations operating it over the past 7k miles.

If you brake too softly, you may get minimal regen, but if you brake too hard, the friction brakes override regen almost entirely. The sweet spot is anticipating stops early and applying steady, moderate pressure, which gives the system enough deceleration demand to maximize regeneration while avoiding wasteful heat in the pads. Smooth and measured braking is your best bet for capturing the most energy.
That's helpful, I probably have been applying the break too lightly in a lot of cases as I've tried for minimal pressure to stop by the point I need to. I've seen in other hybrids there's a energy widget to show where energy is coming and going, does the LC have this?
 
That's helpful, I probably have been applying the break too lightly in a lot of cases as I've tried for minimal pressure to stop by the point I need to. I've seen in other hybrids there's an energy widget to show where energy is coming and going, does the LC have this?
I don’t think it does, but it has a very small battery. I don’t think you need to put too much effort into charging it - the system does a good job of keeping it right where it wants it.
 
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Not buying it from car and driver. I can get 29 MPG highway cruising at 65 MPH. Doubt the GX can do it.

The LC iforce max hybrid is a fantastic drive train if you know how to use it. Then you can just take the GX MPG and add +8 MPG.

There are many sources in this forum and beyond that discuss how to achieve it.
 
There is a lot of conversation around the small gas tank and bad gas mileage (and correspondingly low overall range) for the LC250 so I figured it might be useful to address some of the basics around how the forced induction impacts fuel consumption so people can adjust their expectations and behaviors.

"Well anybody who can afford this car, shouldn't care about gas mileage because they can afford the gas!" - Well I most definitely can afford the gas, and premium at that, but being very far off of advertised EPA estimates is worthy of being upsetting even if one can afford to pay for gas and expensive gas even.

"The hybrid system in the LC250 isn't designed for fuel efficiency, but for low end power, so get over it". - Well yes, it's not BIASED toward the explicit goal of extracting maximum fuel efficiency, but by definition, the electric boost results in recaptured energy otherwise wasted and dissipated as heat via the brakes, and instead adds torque and power to the wheels, which necessarily translates to forward motion that otherwise wouldn't exist in the absence of the hybrid system. So either way, it generates more power and forward motion vs a non-hybrid system, even if its BIAS is more for supplementing power or filling holes in the power band while the turbo spools, etc.

"Toyota is silly, their ECO mode isn't actually better for MPGs, put it in Normal or Sport mode". - I love how people extoll the virtues of Toyota engineering and how they are very intentional with design and then decide that they actually programmed ECO mode to be less economical than Normal or Sport because they don't like the slower responses and compensate by being heavy footed during ECO mode and end up keeping the motor in boost a lot and wonder why ECO isn't getting them better mileage. You can't counteract ECO by being lead footed to offset slightly slower responses and acceleration, it's self defeating.

Without splitting hairs too finely and getting down to stoichiometric specifics regarding rich vs lean air fuel ratios run on the T24A - FTS, one can use the engine displacement (2.4L), compression ratio (11.0:1) and various boost pressures of the turbo, to get some understanding of back of the envelope naturally aspirated equivalent for various boost pressures from the turbo. After all, engines and the way they generate power is all just a giant pump of air and fuel. Think of the turbo as displacement on demand. So here we go:

1) No boost - 2.4L engine
2) 10 PSI boost - 4.03L engine
3) 15 PSI boost - 4.85L engine
4) 20 PSI boost - 6.07L engine

So if you're easy on the pedal and more importantly in ECO mode and driving smoothly (vs abruptly accelerating and winding up the turbo boost pressures), it consumes the fuel equivalent of the above stated naturally aspirated engines at the various loads described. If you're constantly at 10 PSI of boost, you're roughly ingesting and burning up the air/fuel of a 4L engine for those moments. The car is too heavy and big to be operating as solely a 2.4L 4 cylinder, for lots of the time, but to be under low single digits of boost for periods vs 10+ lbs makes quite a difference for fuel economy. I never hesitate to call on its full power when I need to accelerate quickly, I am merely pointing this out to the countless people who are confused as to why their fuel economy is low when they wind up the motor quite often and spend a lot of time in boost. Separately, the hybrid electric assist can also be thought of as additional displacement equivalent roughly equating to ~0.8L across the entire range. so factor that in as well (but this doesn't cost us any additional fuel, so is really quite a neat perk). Now add that back in and suddenly being a 2.4L supplemented by a 0.8L of equivalent electric power sounds a lot more reasonable at 3.2L displacement equivalent.

Fuelly shows an average of ~19 MPGs mixed for the LC250 and I think between this forum and that site, there is selection bias for LC/car enthusiasts that have a penchant for modifying their cars and in the case of the LC, typically upsizing their wheels and tires and lifting them, adding armor etc, which reduces MPGs. With stock suspension and tires, the LC has no issues being able to reach its EPA ratings if driven reasonably, and without calling on its full power potential constantly.
Thank you for the wealth of knowledge you gave us.
 
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