Thanks I saw that but wanted to be sure before I place the order. Australia market does have a different engine from us here.
I wouldn't be too worried about that, all you're doing is creating an air ram for the air intake. Might as well consider an upgrade to something like the aFe cold air intake filter box (their hot and cold intake pipes also look interesting). Probably one of the cheapest horsepower upgrades you can add, and it's an improvement over the stock engine air filter though the oiled version does add tiny extra bit of maintenance and vehicle downtime when it needs cleaning. As long as the snorkel output matches up horizontally and vertically
approximately where the air filter box is located, you should be fine. The video earlier in this thread is the EXACT same installation as the safari snorkel on the FJ cruiser. The vendor I bought my FJ snorkel from didn't ship out hardware, adapter pipes, or even a paper template. Which was annoying but fine, and I learned a lot about this installation process from that. Tips, for you guys when you get yours:
1) Remove any trim pieces covering your view between the sheet metal of the exterior fender and the interior engine bay. Same from any trim in the wheel well. You'll need the visibility and the access for your hands. Wear thin but heavy mil gloves, lots of ways to get cut when squeezing hands in those nooks. Might was well remove any skid plates so that it's easier to retrieve any dropped hardware
2) Visually verify that the snorkel air outlet is horizontally and vertically near the cold air box before drilling
3) mount template. if you didn't receive a template, you can make one out of heavy cardboard and then transfer to vehicle. You have to pay attention to not just the alignment of the snorkel along the fender, but also the mounting location of the snorkel head on the A-pillar. There's a little play, but not much.
4) need a hole saw for cutting sheet metal, or fine tooth blade. Safari for FJ was a standard hole saw size, but a rectangular hole might be better for a grinder. Do a good job of taping off the surrounding area and anything "downwind" if you are using a grinder. Metal bits from the grinder can easily embed themselves in automotive glass. For this step, I recommend making the hole about a 1/2" smaller than needed in diameter and then gradually widening it out to final dimensions through constant test-fitting and adjustment. The output nozzle on the snorkel makes it hard to do a dry fit against the fender, so as you gradually expand the fender hole, you'll get a better idea of the final positioning needed for the snorkel to match up exactly to the hood/fender/A-pillar geometry. This is definitely a measure twice (thrice) cut once situation. Plus bit of a pucker factor to taking a saw to new sheet metal on an expensive truck.
5) If you don't have a mating adapter to the air intake, that's fine. Some boxes like the aFe have a wide mouth that just sits and passively draws air from the fender vents. While a 4" rubber union had enough give to adapt from a circle to an oval, the better long term solution was to completely plug the stock aFe air intake mouth and drill a new hole in that box for the snorkel to mate with. Just need to find a flanged coupling (flange anchors it in box) and then you can use a rubber union to mate the snorkel to your new CAI coupling. aFe used to sell rubber plugs for their boxes that were exact fits but you could also easily fab something with plastic and silicone sealant. The flange and rubber union were easy to find at HVAC supply or companies that sell dust collection equipment. Standard worm gear clamp on both sides to finish the mating.
6) before drilling the mounting bolt locations, use a punch tool to make a divot in the sheet metal so that your drill bit doesn't walk around on you. hopefully, any mistakes get covered up by the snorkel, but less to rust proof later.
7) Before mounting the snorkel, be sure to seal up your fresh cuts and fresh drills. I went overkill and painted, sealed, and then siliconed it. Frame on the FJ ended up rusting away long before my snorkel cuts.
8) if you sealed up the stock air intake hole to make a better one and are nervous about rain coming in to the air filter box and flooding the filter: don't be worried. I checked my air filter several times after driving through heavy rain, or after driving through water levels that were above the air intake box. Not much evidence of water (or mud) making it into the box. You should be a lot more concerned about the stock setup, but if you are still worried, you can do two more things. Switch to the oiled aFe filter, and secondly you can drill a small drain hole in the box below the filter. Add a one way valve if you frequently go through deep water.
9) of course use the Red thread locker on your mounting bolts. you're not taking this off again.
10) if you have an air ram style head (faces forward) on the snorkel, some guys would add a pre-filter to this to reduce debris in the air filter below. I don't drive in sandy conditions, but this proved to be a waste of time. Now you are trying to get at two filters that need to be cleaned. The only thing that seemed worthwhile was standard window screen to keep out larger items. I stopped doing that and rarely found leaves or bugs in the air box.
Can't believe they put that soda can on the top trim for us.
