Letting turbo cool after parking

Any proof that changing the oil ever 3k miles helps or just peace of mind? I'm honestly curious this is my first turbo engine car.

I don’t drive too much and when I do, it’s mostly short hops .. which is the worse possible scenario. For me it’s peace of mind. And at $110/change (1/5th what my Porsche costs) it’s a total no brainer. If you listen to the video I posted he strongly recommends going to no-longer than 5k .. YMMV 😏
 
BY FAR the best thing you can do for any Turbo engine to last long is to change the engine oil frequently...

I changed my LC at 1000 miles break in, and then every 3300 miles (so 3 times more often than Toyota says).

This engine is EXTREMELY well designed and uses mostly basic and tried and tested technologies that have been around forever and are proven to work well, and maintain easily..... down to the total lack of cosmetic BS like plastic covers, this engine is "old school" as Ahmed of Car Car Nut says..


Welcome to the Jungle BTW!
 
I’ve changed my oil at 3k intervals and now at 11k miles. I’m considering switching to 5K intervals because the oil looks extremely clean when I’m draining it. I do it myself. It’s really easy.
 
The turbo doesn't add much more complexity, but it has meaningful impact on other engine components.
It does create more stress on the engine itself - the only way you can get more power and torque from a smaller displacement engine is by significantly increasing combustion pressure and temperature, and consequently the load on bearings, cylinder walls, etc. Of course, these components can be designed to withstand these higher loads, but there is no free lunch, there will always be a trade off between how much power you can squeeze out of a certain displacement and engine longevity.
Turbos also introduce more stress on the oil. The oil is subject to higher temperatures when it is used to cool and lubricate the turbo, and the engine in general. It's a bit of a contradiction game, as you need very thin oil to lubricate a fast spinning turbo, and you want a thicker oil to lubricate the crankshaft bearing which are now subject higher loads / pressures.
Only time will tell how good of a balance between performance, longevity and cost did Toyota strike with these new engines. The Tundra engine debacle doesn't look good, but the T24A has been relatively trouble-free so far.
Personally, I don't expect the T24A engines to last as long as some of the best older large displacement Toyota engines. But it may prove itself to be sufficiently reliable and durable for most of people. I never keep cars beyond 100k miles (with one notable exception but that was when I was a poor college student), so I am not overly worried. But it may hit resale value or those owners who like to keep their cars "until the wheels fall off".
I thought the whole point of adding the hybrid batteries was to alleviate the stress of turbo on the smaller engine.
 
I thought the whole point of adding the hybrid batteries was to alleviate the stress of turbo on the smaller engine.
Adding a turbo to a smaller or a larger engine does not change the level of stress.
 
Adding a turbo to an engine which was not designed to run on a turbo will add stress. But an engine specifically engineered to handle the known stress of the turbo should be fine. Trust in Toyota engineers and ye shall be happy.
 
Adding a turbo to an engine which was not designed to run on a turbo will add stress. But an engine specifically engineered to handle the known stress of the turbo should be fine. Trust in Toyota engineers and ye shall be happy.
Tell this to the folks who bought any Toyota with the V35A engine. 100k recalled for complete engine replacement of early model years, but people keep reporting failures of 2024 and even 2025 model years. Toyota blamed the problem on manufacturing problem (debris) but the front main crankshaft bearings keep failing even after Toyota said that the manufacturing problem was resolved. They also modified the bearing (new part number) and they keep failing.
Check this video (fast forward to 14:40) and visit the links on tundras.com.
No, there is plenty of evidence that Toyota engineers do not know how to design a high stress turbo engine.



 
One engine having a problem doesn’t mean they all will. The 2JZ never had a problem and it had a turbo. The T24A will most likely be fine.
 
Tell this to the folks who bought any Toyota with the V35A engine. 100k recalled for complete engine replacement of early model years, but people keep reporting failures of 2024 and even 2025 model years. Toyota blamed the problem on manufacturing problem (debris) but the front main crankshaft bearings keep failing even after Toyota said that the manufacturing problem was resolved. They also modified the bearing (new part number) and they keep failing.
Check this video (fast forward to 14:40) and visit the links on tundras.com.
No, there is plenty of evidence that Toyota engineers do not know how to design a high stress turbo engine.




Thus the reason I keep bringing up 0W-30 on that motor..........Obviously the bottom end needs more protection....... for whatever reason.
 
It is most likely unnecessary but if it is really hot out (90+F) and I was driving for a while I will press the tow/haul button before I park it and let it idle for a couple minutes. Then park in the garage and turn it off.
 
I’ve changed my oil at 3k intervals and now at 11k miles. I’m considering switching to 5K intervals because the oil looks extremely clean when I’m draining it. I do it myself. It’s really easy.
Smell your oil next change. Mine has a heavy fuel smell each change. Thus no more than 5k mile intervals for me. You might be a little anal retentive with 3k intervals but also not unjustified imo.
 
Smell your oil next change. Mine has a heavy fuel smell each change. Thus no more than 5k mile intervals for me. You might be a little anal retentive with 3k intervals but also not unjustified imo.
You might consider SPEEDiagnostix or Blackstone oil analysis. SPEEDiagnostix will quantitate the fuel dilution in their assay.
 
You might consider SPEEDiagnostix or Blackstone oil analysis. SPEEDiagnostix will quantitate the fuel dilution in their assay.
Yes great suggestion. I even collected a sample once but did not send it off. Best laid plans. I have recently experimented with running in tow haul mode to keep ice running all the time like at a traffic light instead of cutting on and off. Ive noticed (anecdotally) much less fuel smell than previously in my last two oil changes. Enough so that I've calmed a bit on it.
 
This is not your normal turbo charged engine. if you have a chance, just look at the turbo gauge and you will see that the turbo barely kicks in. you have to be flooring that accelerator for that turbine to be active.
I didnt know we have a turbo gauge in our instrument cluster
 
Yes great suggestion. I even collected a sample once but did not send it off. Best laid plans. I have recently experimented with running in tow haul mode to keep ice running all the time like at a traffic light instead of cutting on and off. Ive noticed (anecdotally) much less fuel smell than previously in my last two oil changes. Enough so that I've calmed a bit on it.
That’s a great idea!

Any noticeable drop in MPG?

Or maybe the better question is how bad was the drop in MPG?
 
I have not found this to be the case.

If I am accelerating at anything more than the lightest press on the pedal (anything more than 5-10%) or climbing a hill or driving faster than 70 mph or pulling a trailer then the turbo is showing some (>5 psi) pressure on the gauge.

At steady speed (<60) it often does not show any boost which seems like how it should work.
No kidding. That is called being under load. Cruising on the highway....minimal on any turbo. Cool down needed if you came home chasing Mario.............oil changes are all about your driving conditions. Highway not so much
 
Last edited:
Supporting Vendors View all →
Back
Top Bottom