King shocks suspension build, give me your .02

[Shorty]

I am not an expert but did do a lot of research prior to recently pulling the trigger on adding the Dobinsons MRR suspension. Given that you are in Australia then you probably know how popular Dobinsons is over there. And from your description of your plans with your truck I think this brand is well suited for you, since you can purchase the springs and set-up based on your weight and what you tow or carry. As @GTV says - if you want to spend a bit, the MRR's are outstanding in my opinion. I think one of the more durable suspensions on the market and there are many adjustments you can make on these to dial in the type of ride you are looking for as well as the ride height for lift. You have the ability to change from firmer highway driving to softer rebound settings for corrugated dirt roads.
I recommend at least inquiring about them as you must have tons of knowledgeable sources for them in Australia.

Yeah the problem is here they all say theirs is the best, the only real difference without doing much research is the warranty some offer 2 years and others 5 years.

 

[amzazai]

It's worth your time to watch the series of videos by Overland Outfitters called "Shock Value". It's the best discussion and testing of real world shock performance you'll find. The video below is just a summary, but you'll hear them mention Bilstein a lot (best value/performance at all price levels.) I'm waiting for Bilstein to release their offerings (maybe later this year or early in 2026? No one knows!)

I contacted Bilstein Australia and this is what they responded for articulation/droop.

I’m attaching screenshots conversation that I had with them thru email.

 

[Shorty]

This is the problem we all want different things and there will always be compromise at some stage to meet our expectation.

 

[Bad1975]

I contacted Bilstein Australia and this is what they responded for articulation/droop.

I’m attaching screenshots conversation that I had with them thru email.

This is the problem with most aftermarket lifts, the lift takes the droop away. I have Dobinsons extended travel and got the lift I wanted and gained droop, I went with the GS shocks as I want my shocks to last like OEM and not have to continuously rebuild them.

If you truly want Kings I'd 1. be prepared to rebuild them every 30-50K with only on road use and more frequently with off-road use and 2. Confirm they don't trade lift for droop as most manufacturers off the shelf stuff does just that. You can run them longer but they typically begin leaking around those mileage points and if going offroad your risking a shock blowout once that starts.

 

[WeCruising]

I plan on going sliders, skids and the biggest tire I can run stock with no lift

That's kinda where I am at too. Stock and stuffed!

 

[Shorty]

It’s interesting all of the Blogs I’ve looked at and upgrades I see are all about the lift. I don’t necessarily want the lift but don’t want the sag from towing a trailer and because Toyota and others have such little payload I have to get a GVM upgrade. I then have to worry about the ride as a normal runabout town as I don’t want it too stiff and uncomfortable. I have chosen an OME nitrocharger shocks with 200 kg springs the lightest for a GVM upgrade. Like anything there has to be compromise and with consultation with a number of upgrade specialists hopefully I have chosen the right product - it’s being fitted in January so I’ll let you know how things go.

 

[Bad1975]

Do airbags count as GVM upgrade in AUS? That sounds like what you really need, air up when needed and leave very little pressure in them when not.

 

[RideWithYanu]

This is the problem with most aftermarket lifts, the lift takes the droop away. I have Dobinsons extended travel and got the lift I wanted and gained droop, I went with the GS shocks as I want my shocks to last like OEM and not have to continuously rebuild them.

If you truly want Kings I'd 1. be prepared to rebuild them every 30-50K with only on road use and more frequently with off-road use and 2. Confirm they don't trade lift for droop as most manufacturers off the shelf stuff does just that. You can run them longer but they typically begin leaking around those mileage points and if going offroad your risking a shock blowout once that starts.

Do you have a build thread or have you shared your build on the forums here (or elsewhere)? I’m back and forth between OME BP-51 vs Dobinsons, and want the capabilities (especially that droop!) of the Dobinsons but the comfort of the OME. Would love to read your setup and thoughts on it.

 

[Bad1975]

@RideWithYanu no build thread but I posted some install stuff when I did mine. I didn’t do OME because allot of what I researched on various Toyota platforms was that OME stuff is quite a bit stiffer than other brands and then I stumbled upon Dobinsons when doing the 40 series suspension which had to be replaced due to age (That has Dobinsons IMS on it.) There were allot people who switched from OME to Dobinsons due to stiffness when I was looking to do the 40, but none that I could find that went the other way round. Even TORFAB recommended OME, not sure if they are stiffer or not but I'm happy with my decision. There were also allot more Australians using Dobinsons vice OME so that aided in my decision as well.

The Dobinsons was so good on the 40 I went with them for the 250 and have no second thoughts for either,!the 80 series will likely get Dobinsons when the current stuff needs changed too.

I’ve had PROCOMP coilover (Those were awesome as far as ride almost OE ride only better), but they chose not to continue making that size and therefore couldn’t be rebuilt and traded lift for droop, ICON (Crap IME)lift for droop to boot and full Rancho lift on my first off-road build 26 years ago, wasn’t bad for its time but in today’s world those shocks just can’t keep up at least it didn’t trade droop for lift though.

I try and dig up my install.

 

[Bad1975]

First link:

Lift components: Dobinsons lift

Post 1102: What Have You Done To Your LC250 Today?

Post 1091: What Have You Done To Your LC250 Today?

Front articulation droop measurement post 29 Alldogs Spacer Eraser:

 

[Shorty]

Do airbags count as GVM upgrade in AUS? That sounds like what you really need, air up when needed and leave very little pressure in them when not.

No they don’t as they don’t change the weight on the rear axle they shift the body alignment. I am putting them on the rears anyways whilst towing to level the body. The GVM should look after the payload and weight over both axles.

 

[amzazai]

This is the problem with most aftermarket lifts, the lift takes the droop away. I have Dobinsons extended travel and got the lift I wanted and gained droop, I went with the GS shocks as I want my shocks to last like OEM and not have to continuously rebuild them.

If you truly want Kings I'd 1. be prepared to rebuild them every 30-50K with only on road use and more frequently with off-road use and 2. Confirm they don't trade lift for droop as most manufacturers off the shelf stuff does just that. You can run them longer but they typically begin leaking around those mileage points and if going offroad you’re risking a shock blowout once that starts.

I like to get not more than 2 inch max. Is Dobinson adjustable or they’d give me max lift out the box? I’ll be run 33 inch tire and I’m afraid that anything more than 2 inch in the front will expose too much of the wheel well.

 

[Bad1975]

If you go with GS or IMS extended travel shocks you choose the springs you want to achieve lift height and wright capacity, if you go with the MRR they are adjustable height coilovers with remote reservoirs and you choose springs based on stock or additional weight per axle.

Exit Road website has good information for figuring out what to choose and looking over what's available. Your best bet is to send them a Contact us form or email with what your looking to achieve for lift height/weight, desired shock maintenance or change out intervals, and what they recommend to go with along with that lift height for a proper suspension upgrade. They won't try and up sell you into stuff you don't need and they seem to be way more knowledgeable than the people answering the phones or emails at Dobinson's.

Edited to correct shock names

 

[amzazai]

If you go with GS or MMR extended travel shocks you choose the springs you want to achieve lift height and wright capacity, if you go with the MRS they are adjustable height coilovers with remote reservoirs and you choose springs based on stock or additional weight per axle.

Exit Road website has good information for figuring out what to choose and looking over what's available. Your best bet is to send them a Contact us form or email with what your looking to achieve for lift height/weight, desired shock maintenance or change out intervals, and what they recommend to go with along with that lift height for a proper suspension upgrade. They won't try and up sell you into stuff you don't need and they seem to be way more knowledgeable than the people answering the phones or emails at Dobinson's.

Is this the website?

https://exitoffroad.com/

Thank you! Appreciate your knowledge in the forums.

 

[RideWithYanu]

@RideWithYanu no build thread but I posted some install stuff when I did mine. I didn’t do OME because allot of what I researched on various Toyota platforms was that OME stuff is quite a bit stiffer than other brands and then I stumbled upon Dobinsons when doing the 40 series suspension which had to be replaced due to age (That has Dobinsons MMRs on it.) There were allot people who switched from OME to Dobinsons due to stiffness when I was looking to do the 40, but none that I could find that went the other way round. Even TORFAB recommended OME, not sure if they are stiffer or not but I'm happy with my decision. There were also allot more Australians using Dobinsons vice OME so that aided in my decision as well.

The Dobinsons was so good on the 40 I went with them for the 250 and have no second thoughts for either,!the 80 series will likely get Dobinsons when the current stuff needs changed too.

I’ve had PROCOMP coilover (Those were awesome as far as ride almost OE ride only better), but they chose not to continue making that size and therefore couldn’t be rebuilt and traded lift for droop, ICON (Crap IME)lift for droop to boot and full Rancho lift on my first off-road build 26 years ago, wasn’t bad for its time but in today’s world those shocks just can’t keep up at least it didn’t trade droop for lift though.

I try and dig up my install.

Thanks man, really appreciate you taking the time.

 

[amzazai]

If you go with GS or IMS extended travel shocks you choose the springs you want to achieve lift height and wright capacity, if you go with the MRR they are adjustable height coilovers with remote reservoirs and you choose springs based on stock or additional weight per axle.

Exit Road website has good information for figuring out what to choose and looking over what's available. Your best bet is to send them a Contact us form or email with what your looking to achieve for lift height/weight, desired shock maintenance or change out intervals, and what they recommend to go with along with that lift height for a proper suspension upgrade. They won't try and up sell you into stuff you don't need and they seem to be way more knowledgeable than the people answering the phones or emails at Dobinson's.

Edited to correct shock names

So, I contacted them thru the website.
This is what they replied, “
Thanks for reaching out. What you've asked for is super common amongst the LC250 crowd. 2" front lift and 1/2" rear lift makes them sit level and keeps the most articulation up and down without adding much lift. Depending how the front struts are assembled will dictate if you need replacement UCA's (upper control arms) and a diff drop kit. The struts have a "droop spacer" that changes the amount of travel, so if you don't want to mess with those extra parts, the droop spacer gets installed on top of the struts, not below, and you can use the stock UCA's and a diff drop kit is not required. On this page here, you'll see the details of that listed in the drop down menus.

https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-ims-lift-kit-land-cruiser-250/

Here are the parts I suggest for you:
C59-882 front 2" coils
IMS59-60660 front struts
C59-885V rear 1/2" coils
IMS59-60441 rear shocks

Depending who is doing the installation, they need to make sure to put the droop spacer on top of the strut mount. Or if you want us to preassemble the front struts, add new strut mounts, the labor charge, and select STDTRAVEL in the menus.

With that combo of parts, nothing else on that page is required. If you want the rear to have a little more lift and not be dead level, you can add 2 of the rear 15mm coils spacers to have a total of 1" of rear lift. And that's it.”

They’re suggesting droop spacer which will help with the down travel, but it will most likely affect the up travel.

 

[Bad1975]

With the droop spacer you risk the shock bottoming out, I'm surprised they suggested that! I'd contact via DM CrikeyMike on IH8MUD forum, he is from exit offroad looks like they are no longer listing the extended travel shocks.

I did a little digging the extended travel shocks Mike suggested I get and used to be listed for the 250 are now listed as 300 series.

If I were you I'd do the the extended travel GS shocks unless they Mike says there is an issue with them on the 250?? I haven't had an problems with them though.

C59-882 Front Springs
GS59-440 Front Strut (Extended travel) Confirm these are still ok, those are what I'm running and they used to list them for 1-3" extended travel
GS59-441 Rear Strut (Extended travel) Same as above
C59-885V 1/2" rear spring (I'd rather have a correct length spring than a spacer sitting on top of it if the spacer can be avoided, that said I ran a spacer with a new spring to maintain some rake for loading and towing since they don't offer a 2.5" option for the rear.

I'd also do the UCAs (Not cheap but it allow for more alignment and prevent the coils from contacting the UCAs at full droop) and Diff drop (diff drop is cheap insurance for your CVs). You probably can get away with not needing the rear adjustable links and panhard since only a 1/2" lift in the rear.

 

[Bajacruzzer]

Hi fellow members,

I'm looking to do a suspension set up. I cant lift the car too high due to my garage height. After research im pretty set on King shocks 2.5 (non adjustable) front and rear at the lowest setting which I believe is 1.3"-1.5" with dobinsons .5" rear springs and king sway bar links. Originally I was going to do total chaos UCA as well but probably overkill for what my needs are. Wife hates the current body roll so I'm looking to stiffen it up. I had king shocks on my tundra and was very pleased.
Mainly driving on street + light off roading here and there.

Any advice or recommendations? Should I add anything?Thank you!

I don’t want to bum you out but, with a Toyota you don’t need to do anything to them. Toyota builds the best box stock Offroad capable rehicles on the market. Why do think terrorist all over the world prefer Toyota’s.

 

[Bajacruzzer]

The only upgrade needed on a Toyota, any Toyota is tires. I’ve been driving up and down Baja on portions of the Baja 1000 trail and all over the backroads of Nevada, tires are what make a difference. Aftermarket shocks, springs, coils, bumpers, etc, etc… waste of money. Spend your money on a tire patch kit and air compressors. That’s what will help you out in the back country.

 

[amzazai]

With the droop spacer you risk the shock bottoming out, I'm surprised they suggested that! I'd contact via DM CrikeyMike on IH8MUD forum, he is from exit offroad looks like they are no longer listing the extended travel shocks.

I did a little digging the extended travel shocks Mike suggested I get and used to be listed for the 250 are now listed as 300 series.

If I were you I'd do the the extended travel GS shocks unless they Mike says there is an issue with them on the 250?? I haven't had an problems with them though.

C59-882 Front Springs
GS59-440 Front Strut (Extended travel) Confirm these are still ok, those are what I'm running and they used to list them for 1-3" extended travel
GS59-441 Rear Strut (Extended travel) Same as above
C59-885V 1/2" rear spring (I'd rather have a correct length spring than a spacer sitting on top of it if the spacer can be avoided, that said I ran a spacer with a new spring to maintain some rake for loading and towing since they don't offer a 2.5" option for the rear.

I'd also do the UCAs (Not cheap but it allow for more alignment and prevent the coils from contacting the UCAs at full droop) and Diff drop (diff drop is cheap insurance for your CVs). You probably can get away with not needing the rear adjustable links and panhard since only a 1/2" lift in the rear.

I just checked their website and you’re correct that they are listed for lc300, but it also says if you want to install them for lc250 then uca, and diff drop must be installed to prevent issues with cv axles.

Just want to make sure if they’re adjustable for 1.5 to 2 inches max lift. I don’t want to go more than 2 inches in the front. Also, if im not lifting more than 2 inches, do I still need a diff drop?