Continued from my previous video on the dash corner speaker install, here’s the video for the door speakers.
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Front Door 6x9” Speaker Installation Video
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What trim level in your LC?
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LCLC Premium.
The door speakers are 2 olm. Those are 4 I think. I ran into that with JL’ s in the door
so, you're saying just do the 3.5's in the dash? 
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I’m saying the 3.5s in the dash deliver more noticeable improvement than the door speaker replacements using the OEM amp.so, you're saying just do the 3.5's in the dash?
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The aftermarket amps like Beatsonic are 4-channel amps, which means the door speakers and the dash speakers are sharing a channel. Anything is possible, but it doesn’t seem likely they would use a 2ohm driver in that situation. But it would explain why the door speakers seem a bit less assertive than maybe they should.
I’m out of town now but will look at the OEM speaker when I get home next weekend to see if it’s labeled.
I think the First Editions have a different stereo set up??
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Not that I’m aware.I think the First Editions have a different stereo set up??
I didn’t measure them but there is a ton of stuff on here about the ohm loads. Here is a bit more:
JBL Premium Audio System (14 Speakers, Premium Package)
• Front Door Speakers:
• In Toyota vehicles with JBL systems (e.g., 2023 Tacoma, 4Runner), front door speakers are commonly 2 ohms. This is because JBL designs these speakers to draw more power from the factory amplifier, maximizing output without requiring a high-wattage amp.
• For example, in the 2023 Toyota 4Runner JBL system, front door speakers (6x9” or 6.5”) are confirmed as 2-ohm, delivering approximately 25–30 watts RMS per speaker.
• Given the 2025 Land Cruiser’s JBL system is a premium setup with a similar 8-channel DSP amplifier, it’s highly likely the front door speakers are 2 ohms, consistent with Toyota’s JBL configurations.
I also noted a drop in volume levels with the JL’s confirming to me using ohms law that there was a mismatch.. as I said I didn’t measure the output, but my research and ears confirmed an issue.
I didn’t see any labeling on the OEM speakers. Beatsonic isn’t a great solution (search the forum or use AI and search the web). I contacted them and was concerned by the answers they gave. The only way to solve the audio upgrade rabbit hole was using a PAC interface to run from the head unit to a new Multi channel amp, replace lol the stock speakers ( I used Hertz units in the stock sizes) then used a powered subwoofer.
This is after buying and replacing the stock speaker units with JL’s (back in the boxes in my garage) researching and communicating with Beatsonic, dealing with Toyota’s odd Ohm set up, and learning much. My biggest mistake in all this was going with an 8 channel amp (you need a 12). I had a timing issue with delay and had to disconnect the front center, the rear two speakers in the tailgate were not replaced and they caused no issue.
The hertz set up presents a clear and detailed soundstage. (C-26 tweeters-4 windshield pillers hand rear doors, MP 70 full range 3” dash, and C-165 Mids for each door) just flat rock. The Alpine DSP amp calibrated everything perfectly using the microphones in my iPhone. Couple this with the Kicker powered dual sub and I’m quite happy the way it turned out. Expensive, but if I can save aggravation or money from my experiences, I’m all for that. No matter what anyone chooses, please research before you take anyone’s word and search is your friend (along with Grok AI)
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A 2 ohm and a 4 ohm speaker wired in parallel, as the door and dash speakers appear to be, would combine to a 1.333 total impedance, which would damage nearly any amplifier built for commercial use. That’s not likely to be how Toyota designed it.
Possibly the OEM Toyota amp has a separate channel for the door speakers so they could use 2 ohm drivers there, then they combine it back into one signal somehow that results in the door and dash speakers operating as a single unit with the fader. That sounds to me like an expensive answer to a question nobody asked.
What is most likely happening, as I said in my video, is that the 10-15 watts per channel the OEM amp delivers is fine for the JL Audio 3.5” speakers but not adequate to drive a serious set of 6x9” speakers to satisfaction.
I’m a bass player, and I’m running an 800 watt amp on stage next to guitarists who are generally running 50 watts. I have an understanding for why that is.
I agree that if you buy a device that intercepts the speaker level output and delivers a separate line level output for each of 12 channels, you get to call your own pitches. Glad that’s worked well for you.
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Yeah the whole wired in parallel is a weird way to approach things. I knew that as well but didn’t want to distract or hijack the thread…nearly offer my experience. I think if you are looking for a low cost bang for the buck…the corner JL’s are great. Audison makes some 2 ohm 6” mid bass that I was going to try, but went the more extensive route.
Great work man! Love the detailed video. Waiting for July4th to get the same speakers like you did.
One personal experience/recommendation - After rain, water can seep through the gaps of the CLDs into the door card due to ununiform speaker contact to the inner door card. When I modded my 5th Gen T4R, it had water collect at the bottom of the door card when I did like you initially. Something to think about!
Check out Resonix tutorial videos, they got great educational info!
One personal experience/recommendation - After rain, water can seep through the gaps of the CLDs into the door card due to ununiform speaker contact to the inner door card. When I modded my 5th Gen T4R, it had water collect at the bottom of the door card when I did like you initially. Something to think about!
Check out Resonix tutorial videos, they got great educational info!
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