Engine Death Wobble

Probably the completely unnecessary oil changes. Not sure what the obsession here with changing diff fluid and engine oil way before the manufacturer recommendation. Every time you open these systems up you introduce contamination and add to the probability of something failing.
 
Probably the completely unnecessary oil changes. Not sure what the obsession here with changing diff fluid and engine oil way before the manufacturer recommendation. Every time you open these systems up you introduce contamination and add to the probability of something failing.
Welcome to the Jungle!

I totally disagree with you on engine oil changes but do agree with you on the diff and Xmsn early oil changes. My logic......... hydrocarbons from engine combustion vs no combustion in the diffs and Xmsn.
 
Probably the completely unnecessary oil changes. Not sure what the obsession here with changing diff fluid and engine oil way before the manufacturer recommendation. Every time you open these systems up you introduce contamination and add to the probability of something failing.

It's well known that oil change intervals are based largely on perceived reduced maintenance costs and other factors, not based on getting the longest engine life. Many respected and thorough mechanics have shown and detailed the real world results of long service intervals. And note that those long, standard intervals, in the owners manual, are for non-severe driving conditions. Manufactures recommend oil changes and other maintenance more often if vehicle is used in "severe duty". Their definition and list of severe duty includes stop and go traffic, towing, short trips (especially in cold climates), driving gravel/dusty roads, etc.

No doubt these modern vehicles will last a long time doing maintenance at the ever-longer intervals recommended for non-severe duty, but there is also no doubt that they will last even longer if the intervals are shortened to reasonable intervals. I'm not saying to do an oil change every 3,000 miles like we needed to with dino oil and older tech, but 5,000 - 6,000 is certainly reasonable (and cheap) if the goal is extremely long service life out of the powertrain. Owners that only drive their vehicles for 100,000 miles or less, before replacing, don't care because the vehicle is long gone before the long service intervals have an impact. But as the miles rack up, somebody is going to pay the price for those long service intervals. As someone that typically buys used vehicles starting with 100,000 miles on them, I look for someone that has done proper maintenance (which I don't consider long intervals to be), or I won't buy. And for the very rare times I buy new or low mileage vehicles, I do service intervals associated with longevity even if I don't plan on keeping the vehicle for extremely high mileage. It's cheap, gives me a opportunity to look everything over and catch things early (warranty issues, service issues, road damage, etc.), stay in tune with the vehicle, really helps get top dollar for resale (records showing detailed service intervals show how well the vehicle was cared for) and I personally feel it's the right thing to do for the next owner down the road.
 
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It is really fun to post endlessly about the preferred motor oil change interval, which oils to use, and/or fuel octane rating, don't you think? ;)
Just wait for the winter for all the “can’t get posted mpg numbers in -20F weather with monster truck tires, Toyota lied to owners, we need a class action lawsuit.”.
 
I’m posting here in hopes that someone can help or point me in the right direction. I haven’t seen anything like this on the Facebook groups or this forum so here it goes.

I have a 2024 Land Cruiser LC Edition that has about 12,000 miles. Despite some of the things below, I really enjoy driving this LC. I have done a break-in oil change at 1000 miles, oil change at a little over 5000 miles, and an oil change around 11,000 miles. I have used nothing but premium fuel. My LC is also bone stock, and I have the intention of eventually lifting it and adding bigger tires. Already got the Sequoia BBS forged wheels. Also during the break-in period, I did not go higher than 2500 RPMs. Lastly, I have not taken this off-roading yet. Before I get roasted in the comments, I want these things fixed first, and do not want Toyota to say that I caused this.

With that said, before the engine death wobble at 8,000 miles the best MPG I have ever gotten was 19.5 MPG. Not bad, but not near the promised MPG. However, before this incident, the first thing I’ve had were two hard shifts on the highway to the point where it felt like someone rear ended me. I did notice on the second hard shift my RPMs went from under 2000 RPMs to over 3000 RPMs. Took to dealership, inspected, and no codes thrown. Additionally, I have that annoying tick for the first 10 to 15 minutes whenever I start my LC that sounds like an exhaust manifold leak I had on my GX 470. I have a video of that as well, but service “couldn’t replicate it” and no codes thrown. Furthermore, my center locking diff has seized three times when engaging. Have a video of it not engaging and light blinking while driving at idling speeds for a good 30 seconds. No codes for that either. Lastly, I have had hard shifts when slowing down to a stop between 30% to 40% of the time. No codes for that and told a possible software update will come out soon.

At around 8,000 miles, the video below happened. I started my LC after work and the whole LC shook. The floor, steering wheel, seat, etc. vibrated like the death wobble on my Jeep Wrangler. I checked around the LC and did not see any damage. After that I started recording the engine. From the video it looks whenever it goes from gas to hybrid mode, the whole engine and LC shakes. I thought for a second that the radiator hose was about to pop off with how badly it was shaking. This went on for a good 10 to 15 minutes. I showed the service department the video and they said that everything checks out, no codes, and that it is a “one time event.“ This happened again when I started my LC at around 10,000 miles, but it lasted for only five minutes.

Since this happened, there’s been two major things I’ve noticed. The first is that my MPG’s have been gradually decreasing. Keep in mind this is bone stock, but I am now averaging between 16.5 and 17 MPG‘s. This is upsetting because a major factor in getting this LC was for the 22 city / 25 highway MPG. My 2008 GX 470 that I traded averaged about 15 MPG so I feel I’m exactly where I started without any modifications whatsoever.

The second major thing is that my Max Battery Gauge dropped from a solid 4 to 6 bars down to 3 bars. Same route driven every day. I have noticed that sometimes I get back to 4 bars, but that is rare at this point. The reason I think this is significant is because when I get to stoplights or coasting to a stop, my LC does not go into hybrid mode like it used to. At least as consistently as it used to. If I had to measure, I would say now that about 30% of the time it goes into hybrid mode. Before this happened, the battery would be between 4 to 5 bars and it would consistently go into hybrid mode when coming to a stop or slow slowing down. I’m assuming this is what’s killing my MPG’s.

Fast forward to this past couple of weeks, I showed the service department the video again, I told him about the hybrid battery, and told them about my decreased MPG’s. They said there’s no codes, the Max Battery Gauge was for the 12V battery, and, despite my manual calculations at the pump, that my MPG‘s were actually higher. Rather than argue with them, I created a case with Toyota corporate and was informed that if the dealership could not recreate the issue, there was nothing that could be done. Hence, now I am here posting this in hopes that someone could help.

Again, the reason I’m posting this is I’m hoping someone has dealt with this before and knows what is happening or what to tell the service department specifically to look for. I know this is the first model, and I know there will be some growing pains with any first model, but my patience is almost at its end.

Thank y’all in advance for your responses and help.
View attachment 38956
I have the exact same issue with the CRAZY vibration. It has happened twice now. First time, I took it to the dealership and they couldn't help because "no code." Last time it happened was on Saturday. We let it idle for a while hoping a light or something would come on and it never did. Not sure what to do but its crazy! Feels like the car is falling apart and frustrating that they dont want to acknowledge the problem. I was mad that I didn't get a video this last time but sounds like it wasnt helpful anyway. I am also only averaging 17.5 mpg.
 
I’m posting here in hopes that someone can help or point me in the right direction. I haven’t seen anything like this on the Facebook groups or this forum so here it goes.

I have a 2024 Land Cruiser LC Edition that has about 12,000 miles. Despite some of the things below, I really enjoy driving this LC. I have done a break-in oil change at 1000 miles, oil change at a little over 5000 miles, and an oil change around 11,000 miles. I have used nothing but premium fuel. My LC is also bone stock, and I have the intention of eventually lifting it and adding bigger tires. Already got the Sequoia BBS forged wheels. Also during the break-in period, I did not go higher than 2500 RPMs. Lastly, I have not taken this off-roading yet. Before I get roasted in the comments, I want these things fixed first, and do not want Toyota to say that I caused this.

With that said, before the engine death wobble at 8,000 miles the best MPG I have ever gotten was 19.5 MPG. Not bad, but not near the promised MPG. However, before this incident, the first thing I’ve had were two hard shifts on the highway to the point where it felt like someone rear ended me. I did notice on the second hard shift my RPMs went from under 2000 RPMs to over 3000 RPMs. Took to dealership, inspected, and no codes thrown. Additionally, I have that annoying tick for the first 10 to 15 minutes whenever I start my LC that sounds like an exhaust manifold leak I had on my GX 470. I have a video of that as well, but service “couldn’t replicate it” and no codes thrown. Furthermore, my center locking diff has seized three times when engaging. Have a video of it not engaging and light blinking while driving at idling speeds for a good 30 seconds. No codes for that either. Lastly, I have had hard shifts when slowing down to a stop between 30% to 40% of the time. No codes for that and told a possible software update will come out soon.

At around 8,000 miles, the video below happened. I started my LC after work and the whole LC shook. The floor, steering wheel, seat, etc. vibrated like the death wobble on my Jeep Wrangler. I checked around the LC and did not see any damage. After that I started recording the engine. From the video it looks whenever it goes from gas to hybrid mode, the whole engine and LC shakes. I thought for a second that the radiator hose was about to pop off with how badly it was shaking. This went on for a good 10 to 15 minutes. I showed the service department the video and they said that everything checks out, no codes, and that it is a “one time event.“ This happened again when I started my LC at around 10,000 miles, but it lasted for only five minutes.

Since this happened, there’s been two major things I’ve noticed. The first is that my MPG’s have been gradually decreasing. Keep in mind this is bone stock, but I am now averaging between 16.5 and 17 MPG‘s. This is upsetting because a major factor in getting this LC was for the 22 city / 25 highway MPG. My 2008 GX 470 that I traded averaged about 15 MPG so I feel I’m exactly where I started without any modifications whatsoever.

The second major thing is that my Max Battery Gauge dropped from a solid 4 to 6 bars down to 3 bars. Same route driven every day. I have noticed that sometimes I get back to 4 bars, but that is rare at this point. The reason I think this is significant is because when I get to stoplights or coasting to a stop, my LC does not go into hybrid mode like it used to. At least as consistently as it used to. If I had to measure, I would say now that about 30% of the time it goes into hybrid mode. Before this happened, the battery would be between 4 to 5 bars and it would consistently go into hybrid mode when coming to a stop or slow slowing down. I’m assuming this is what’s killing my MPG’s.

Fast forward to this past couple of weeks, I showed the service department the video again, I told him about the hybrid battery, and told them about my decreased MPG’s. They said there’s no codes, the Max Battery Gauge was for the 12V battery, and, despite my manual calculations at the pump, that my MPG‘s were actually higher. Rather than argue with them, I created a case with Toyota corporate and was informed that if the dealership could not recreate the issue, there was nothing that could be done. Hence, now I am here posting this in hopes that someone could help.

Again, the reason I’m posting this is I’m hoping someone has dealt with this before and knows what is happening or what to tell the service department specifically to look for. I know this is the first model, and I know there will be some growing pains with any first model, but my patience is almost at its end.

Thank y’all in advance for your responses and help.
View attachment 38956
Forgot to mention, im also at roughly 12,000 miles.... I have a 2024 First Edition.
 
Forgot to mention, im also at roughly 12,000 miles.... I have a 2024 First Edition.
1. Speak to the service manger at the dealership
2. Call corporate and open a case
3. Have corporate schedule FTS (Field technical services) inspection
4. Document everything
5. This is direct email to the Denver Region escalations DenverRegionDR@toyota.com
6. If all this fails contact a lemon law attorney in your state.

Goodluck
 
I had a rough idle experience last night. I'm at 5k miles. It idled roughly at a stop light about a minute after starting it up. Once I accelerated it went away and didn't reoccur at the next light a few minutes later. I've got a maintenance check in a few days and will bring it up with them when I'm there.
 
This thread went off rails. Each his own.

Back to diagnosing this cuz you know the dealer won't if they got no code or can't reproduce the symptoms.

This just happened to me a few minutes ago at a stop light right went I hit 9000 miles on the odometer. The RPM dropped to about 500 and the car starting shaking. I put the car in park and hit the gas to bring the RPM back up. Took my foot off the gas and it happened again. So I cranked up the revs the second time and it went away and I've been letting it sit idle while I write this and it's not happening anymore.

Anyone figure out what's going on? Or any repeats occurrences?
 
If it is really that severe there should be misfire codes. Was the CEL on or blinking? Any other warning lights or messages? Some problems are truly intermittent and if a tech at any shop or dealer cannot replicate the problem or pull codes there is nothing that can be done unless you just want to start swapping parts on your new truck for the fun of it.
 
Unfortunately no lights or warnings.
It felt severe though. I was wondering what this death wobble title was all about, like it was an exaggeration, and then I witnessed it myself. It does feel like the engine is about to croak.
 
I have the exact same issue with the CRAZY vibration. It has happened twice now. First time, I took it to the dealership and they couldn't help because "no code." Last time it happened was on Saturday. We let it idle for a while hoping a light or something would come on and it never did. Not sure what to do but its crazy! Feels like the car is falling apart and frustrating that they dont want to acknowledge the problem. I was mad that I didn't get a video this last time but sounds like it wasnt helpful anyway. I am also only averaging 17.5 mpg.
Welcome tp the asylum.

Did you ever get your problem sorted out?
 
I’m posting here in hopes that someone can help or point me in the right direction. I haven’t seen anything like this on the Facebook groups or this forum so here it goes.

I have a 2024 Land Cruiser LC Edition that has about 12,000 miles. Despite some of the things below, I really enjoy driving this LC. I have done a break-in oil change at 1000 miles, oil change at a little over 5000 miles, and an oil change around 11,000 miles. I have used nothing but premium fuel. My LC is also bone stock, and I have the intention of eventually lifting it and adding bigger tires. Already got the Sequoia BBS forged wheels. Also during the break-in period, I did not go higher than 2500 RPMs. Lastly, I have not taken this off-roading yet. Before I get roasted in the comments, I want these things fixed first, and do not want Toyota to say that I caused this.

With that said, before the engine death wobble at 8,000 miles the best MPG I have ever gotten was 19.5 MPG. Not bad, but not near the promised MPG. However, before this incident, the first thing I’ve had were two hard shifts on the highway to the point where it felt like someone rear ended me. I did notice on the second hard shift my RPMs went from under 2000 RPMs to over 3000 RPMs. Took to dealership, inspected, and no codes thrown. Additionally, I have that annoying tick for the first 10 to 15 minutes whenever I start my LC that sounds like an exhaust manifold leak I had on my GX 470. I have a video of that as well, but service “couldn’t replicate it” and no codes thrown. Furthermore, my center locking diff has seized three times when engaging. Have a video of it not engaging and light blinking while driving at idling speeds for a good 30 seconds. No codes for that either. Lastly, I have had hard shifts when slowing down to a stop between 30% to 40% of the time. No codes for that and told a possible software update will come out soon.

At around 8,000 miles, the video below happened. I started my LC after work and the whole LC shook. The floor, steering wheel, seat, etc. vibrated like the death wobble on my Jeep Wrangler. I checked around the LC and did not see any damage. After that I started recording the engine. From the video it looks whenever it goes from gas to hybrid mode, the whole engine and LC shakes. I thought for a second that the radiator hose was about to pop off with how badly it was shaking. This went on for a good 10 to 15 minutes. I showed the service department the video and they said that everything checks out, no codes, and that it is a “one time event.“ This happened again when I started my LC at around 10,000 miles, but it lasted for only five minutes.

Since this happened, there’s been two major things I’ve noticed. The first is that my MPG’s have been gradually decreasing. Keep in mind this is bone stock, but I am now averaging between 16.5 and 17 MPG‘s. This is upsetting because a major factor in getting this LC was for the 22 city / 25 highway MPG. My 2008 GX 470 that I traded averaged about 15 MPG so I feel I’m exactly where I started without any modifications whatsoever.

The second major thing is that my Max Battery Gauge dropped from a solid 4 to 6 bars down to 3 bars. Same route driven every day. I have noticed that sometimes I get back to 4 bars, but that is rare at this point. The reason I think this is significant is because when I get to stoplights or coasting to a stop, my LC does not go into hybrid mode like it used to. At least as consistently as it used to. If I had to measure, I would say now that about 30% of the time it goes into hybrid mode. Before this happened, the battery would be between 4 to 5 bars and it would consistently go into hybrid mode when coming to a stop or slow slowing down. I’m assuming this is what’s killing my MPG’s.

Fast forward to this past couple of weeks, I showed the service department the video again, I told him about the hybrid battery, and told them about my decreased MPG’s. They said there’s no codes, the Max Battery Gauge was for the 12V battery, and, despite my manual calculations at the pump, that my MPG‘s were actually higher. Rather than argue with them, I created a case with Toyota corporate and was informed that if the dealership could not recreate the issue, there was nothing that could be done. Hence, now I am here posting this in hopes that someone could help.

Again, the reason I’m posting this is I’m hoping someone has dealt with this before and knows what is happening or what to tell the service department specifically to look for. I know this is the first model, and I know there will be some growing pains with any first model, but my patience is almost at its end.

Thank y’all in advance for your responses and help.
View attachment 38956
Did you ever get this problem resolved?

I truly think that The Car Care Nut is the only person that can figure this out. It will take real time engine analysis to figure it out.
 
More than likely it is an injector getting stuck on or leaking. I'd suggest that anyone who has this happen gets an oil sample sent in to check for fuel dilution in the oil. This should at least trigger a pending code or a ROB that the dealer can see when connected to GTS+. Live data would show negative fuel trims if an injector is over fueling and causing misfires.

I'd also put it in neutral when this occurs if safe to do so, to isolate the transmission and hybrid drive system from the equation. If it stops its the engine, if not it's in the transmission.
 
I had the throttle body cleaned out at the dealer and this went away for good but before that I did a few things that did improve things.

A few weeks before it happened for the first time, I took on a lot of water, long story. The wobbles started shortly after the incident. The first incident was at 9000 miles.

I eventually figured/guessed the engine may not be breathing or injecting well so I did 4 things:

1. replace the engine air filter, which was pretty dirty from that water incident.
2. cleaned up the mass airflow sensor with mass airflow sensor cleaner spray .
3. I added fuel injector cleaners to the gas tank.
4. Oil change at 1000 miles after the first incident (although this was part of the routine maintenance more than specifically aimed at this issue)

These all mitigated the issue but not quite solve it. The wobbles kept creeping after a few gas tanks without fuel injector cleaner but never as violent as the initial incidents before the cleanups .

Each time it hinted at coming back, I'd add more injector cleaner and it helped but i didn't wanna keep adding injector cleaners on every 4 gas fill ups, something was still pretty wrong.

So I took it in at 14k miles (5000 miles since the initial incident) did another oil change and had the throttle body cleaned out for $165.
It's been close to 4000 miles since the throttle body clean out and even the hints that I would get that the wobble is about to come are gone.

I may start getting that throttle body cleaned out every 10000-12000 miles from now on.
 
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I’m posting here in hopes that someone can help or point me in the right direction. I haven’t seen anything like this on the Facebook groups or this forum so here it goes.

I have a 2024 Land Cruiser LC Edition that has about 12,000 miles. Despite some of the things below, I really enjoy driving this LC. I have done a break-in oil change at 1000 miles, oil change at a little over 5000 miles, and an oil change around 11,000 miles. I have used nothing but premium fuel. My LC is also bone stock, and I have the intention of eventually lifting it and adding bigger tires. Already got the Sequoia BBS forged wheels. Also during the break-in period, I did not go higher than 2500 RPMs. Lastly, I have not taken this off-roading yet. Before I get roasted in the comments, I want these things fixed first, and do not want Toyota to say that I caused this.

With that said, before the engine death wobble at 8,000 miles the best MPG I have ever gotten was 19.5 MPG. Not bad, but not near the promised MPG. However, before this incident, the first thing I’ve had were two hard shifts on the highway to the point where it felt like someone rear ended me. I did notice on the second hard shift my RPMs went from under 2000 RPMs to over 3000 RPMs. Took to dealership, inspected, and no codes thrown. Additionally, I have that annoying tick for the first 10 to 15 minutes whenever I start my LC that sounds like an exhaust manifold leak I had on my GX 470. I have a video of that as well, but service “couldn’t replicate it” and no codes thrown. Furthermore, my center locking diff has seized three times when engaging. Have a video of it not engaging and light blinking while driving at idling speeds for a good 30 seconds. No codes for that either. Lastly, I have had hard shifts when slowing down to a stop between 30% to 40% of the time. No codes for that and told a possible software update will come out soon.

At around 8,000 miles, the video below happened. I started my LC after work and the whole LC shook. The floor, steering wheel, seat, etc. vibrated like the death wobble on my Jeep Wrangler. I checked around the LC and did not see any damage. After that I started recording the engine. From the video it looks whenever it goes from gas to hybrid mode, the whole engine and LC shakes. I thought for a second that the radiator hose was about to pop off with how badly it was shaking. This went on for a good 10 to 15 minutes. I showed the service department the video and they said that everything checks out, no codes, and that it is a “one time event.“ This happened again when I started my LC at around 10,000 miles, but it lasted for only five minutes.

Since this happened, there’s been two major things I’ve noticed. The first is that my MPG’s have been gradually decreasing. Keep in mind this is bone stock, but I am now averaging between 16.5 and 17 MPG‘s. This is upsetting because a major factor in getting this LC was for the 22 city / 25 highway MPG. My 2008 GX 470 that I traded averaged about 15 MPG so I feel I’m exactly where I started without any modifications whatsoever.

The second major thing is that my Max Battery Gauge dropped from a solid 4 to 6 bars down to 3 bars. Same route driven every day. I have noticed that sometimes I get back to 4 bars, but that is rare at this point. The reason I think this is significant is because when I get to stoplights or coasting to a stop, my LC does not go into hybrid mode like it used to. At least as consistently as it used to. If I had to measure, I would say now that about 30% of the time it goes into hybrid mode. Before this happened, the battery would be between 4 to 5 bars and it would consistently go into hybrid mode when coming to a stop or slow slowing down. I’m assuming this is what’s killing my MPG’s.

Fast forward to this past couple of weeks, I showed the service department the video again, I told him about the hybrid battery, and told them about my decreased MPG’s. They said there’s no codes, the Max Battery Gauge was for the 12V battery, and, despite my manual calculations at the pump, that my MPG‘s were actually higher. Rather than argue with them, I created a case with Toyota corporate and was informed that if the dealership could not recreate the issue, there was nothing that could be done. Hence, now I am here posting this in hopes that someone could help.

Again, the reason I’m posting this is I’m hoping someone has dealt with this before and knows what is happening or what to tell the service department specifically to look for. I know this is the first model, and I know there will be some growing pains with any first model, but my patience is almost at its end.

Thank y’all in advance for your responses and help.
View attachment 38956
You ever get this fixed with Toyota? I had similar symptoms 2024 1958. The gas motor was stuck at 500 rpms when switching from gas to hybrid operation and shook the whole vehicle. My engine range is abysmal as well but it's also hot in PHX.
 
That’s a heck of a first post. I’ve never seen a break-in requirement to not rev the engine & then drive for 1000 miles not going over 2500rpm - what was thought behind that? Ever heard of a Italian valve job, or blowing the soot out? Your engine was dyno tested before arriving at the plant & then the complete vehicle was road tested by Toyota moments after coming off the line. For engines I’ve been around a steady state rpm break-in period is frowned upon as you can get cylinder glazing, & generally you want varying internal engine pressures.

1st thing I’d recommend is pull the negative cable off the battery for 10-20 minutes, reconnect, & go drive the car to hopefully reset the ECU. Your ECU learned some strange driving patterns from how you drove the car early.

2nd I’d pull the spark plugs. The plug electrode area color & health will tell you if you’ve got an injector problem. T24A has dual fuel infection systems (PFI & DI). When they transition it makes noise & vibrates. If you have a dirty injector that plug/cylinder should look different.

Pretty wild.
 
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