Crying Out for Help = MPG

Swapping out the tires you have might make a small difference that is only going to be apparent over time.

I went from the OEM 20” with Yokohama street tires (avg. 13.3 L/100km) to one size larger all terrains on 18” wheels (avg. 13.4 L/100km).
(avg. 13.3 L/100km) LT - thought there wasn't going to be any math here tonight:)
 
(avg. 13.3 L/100km) LT - thought there wasn't going to be any math here tonight:)

I made no such claim…

OEM wheels/tires 265/60/r20 17.68 mpg

18” and all terrains 275/70/r18 17.55 mpg

That .13 mpg is going to make me resort to drastic measures, maybe sell a kidney.
 
I made no such claim…

OEM wheels/tires 265/60/r20 17.68 mpg

18” and all terrains 275/70/r18 17.55 mpg

That .13 mpg is going to make me resort to drastic measures, maybe sell a kidney.
I don't need a kidney - I'm in the wine business so a liver might close the deal.
 
this was my mpg at 3660 and at 5600 its still the same with 265/60/r20 . I have never reset the ODO
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I'm very envious - 345 miles till empty - mine says 280 when full.
Mine never showed more than 310 when full. Then I reset every possible mileage report (infotainment trip report, dash trip odos) and it had crept up to 345 now. Regardless of those indicators, I get around 380-400 per tank actual.
 
I made no such claim…

OEM wheels/tires 265/60/r20 17.68 mpg

18” and all terrains 275/70/r18 17.55 mpg

That .13 mpg is going to make me resort to drastic measures, maybe sell a kidney.
To be fair
Standard OEM 18" wheels are 25-28lbs each (not bad for a factory wheel), "premium" 20" wheels are 38-42Lbs each.
You should measure the weight of your premium wheel setup and compare it to the weight of your new wheel and tire combo. Wheel/Tire weight make a significant impact made the mistake of ordering on MPG. You most likely offset the weight of your "premium" 20" wheel with the additional mass and tread pattern of the 33" rubber/wheel combo.
 
Thanks - have not used cruise control yet - I traded in a 2019 Porsche Cayenne Hybrid for my LC and had never used cruise control once = I'm low tech old school - my wife uses our f150 no hands = no dice.
So you are an environmentalist and let her drive the American ridicule machine in the environmental department?


Once you learn to ride the torque wave your mileage will jump. 20 mpg at 80 is easy. 22 at 75. 24+ at 70. 25++ at 65. Very doable numbers with stock setup. Sound like some after market shi!! tires a dealer slapped on. Tires DO matter
 
Mine never showed more than 310 when full. Then I reset every possible mileage report (infotainment trip report, dash trip odos) and it had crept up to 345 now. Regardless of those indicators, I get around 380-400 per tank actual

Grandpa Moses with heavy wooden shoes I bet. Sport mode at all?
Never been in Sport mode = Eco and Normal
 
Drive with your Battery and turbo Gauge on all the time till you learn the vehicle. You will be surprised how easy it is to be aggressive with our aggressive gas pedal. Those gauges teach you to behave.. There are a few excellent threads on how to get mileage out of an LC. And no, driving like Grandma is not necessary. You need to learn to use the 465ft-lbs of Torque , not the HP. Drives like a diesel when you learn.
 
Drive with your Battery and turbo Gauge on all the time till you learn the vehicle. You will be surprised how easy it is to be aggressive with our aggressive gas pedal. Those gauges teach you to behave.. There are a few excellent threads on how to get mileage out of an LC. And no, driving like Grandma is not necessary. You need to learn to use the 465ft-lbs of Torque , not the HP. Drives like a diesel when you learn.
I'll take that advise - thanks.
 
To be fair
Standard OEM 18" wheels are 25-28lbs each (not bad for a factory wheel), "premium" 20" wheels are 38-42Lbs each.
You should measure the weight of your premium wheel setup and compare it to the weight of your new wheel and tire combo. Wheel/Tire weight make a significant impact made the mistake of ordering on MPG. You most likely offset the weight of your "premium" 20" wheel with the additional mass and tread pattern of the 33" rubber/wheel combo.

I know that to be true. I would say the weight savings with the new wheel and tire combo on our Land Cruiser is 35 lbs, or 7 lbs per.

The point I was making is that with 400 miles on the clock and 12 mpg displayed, the amount of that mpg attributable solely to tires isn't going to be as massive as OP thinks. He is going from one tire that is relatively heavy to another that is in the same ball park as he thinks the tires on the vehicle as delivered to him are the main reason for achieving 12 mpg over a short distance.

Edit- that 35 lb weight saving is more than offset for me five days a week by lugging all the crap I use for work around, but that gear is not unsprung weight,
 
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I want to post today's data: 25' LC LC with OEM FE roof rack, "Normal" mode, tire pressure 34 PSI cold, outside temperature about 64F, almost no wind, highway round trip 240 miles with new FE style 18" wheels and Michelin LTX Trail tires- 24.5MPG. I am very pleased, because I have never seen more than 22.5 MPG with my old 20" wheels and Yokohamas on highway.
 
I know that to be true. I would say the weight savings with the new wheel and tire combo on our Land Cruiser is 35 lbs, or 7 lbs per.

The point I was making is that with 400 miles on the clock and 12 mpg displayed, the amount of that mpg attributable solely to tires isn't going to be as massive as OP thinks. He is going from one tire that is relatively heavy to another that is in the same ball park as he thinks the tires on the vehicle as delivered to him are the main reason for achieving 12 mpg over a short distance.

Edit- that 35 lb weight saving is more than offset for me five days a week by lugging all the crap I use for work around, but that gear is not unsprung weight,
I agree with you 100%, although I do think the E-load composition and tread pattern are significant reducers, I’d be surprised if they accounted for more than 3-4mpg loss over max attainable.

I’m just being honest (and maybe a little salty), you and I have repeated logic at least 5 times a piece in this one thread, and I’m not sure any of it is actually being digested by the OP. It’s categorically just engagement and conclusion confirmation replies all around. Not one indication that reseting odo clocks would help, not one acknowledgement that a larger sampling size would be valuable, and no response to why dropping to a sub-OEM size is logical. Crying out for help, yet deflecting 99% of said help is one of the choices…

But, they got a 4-page thread off the rip so there’s that
 
I guess we'll have to buckle up and see if OP's mileage improves, or whether it becomes a deal breaker for him.

Whether the attainable mpg in the future is suitable for him is subjective, and had I not come from driving a 4wd piggy on wheels with our Land Cruiser being a step up in terms of economy for me, I'd still be somewhat impressed given the size/weight of the Land Cruiser, the power it delivers and doing that with all wheels being driven full time. Some of the alternative SUVs have all wheel drive systems that default to front wheel drive the majority of the time (when no slip is detected), which helps vehicles like those deliver better mileage numbers.
 
Reset your MPG average (on the left) and look at your trip average when you turn the car off

If you car has sat at idle your total average will go down

It could be just by virtue of the settings I have chosen, but our Land Cruiser displays the mileage achieved on any given trip on the dash when the vehicle is shut down.

I find that data useful, and can usually predict what that is going to look like based on hills, traffic conditions and how aggressively the "go pedal" was used on that trip. I have seen economical trips far better than the average displayed on the dash after a highway trip. I have even seen good mileage displayed from being in stop & go traffic around town when I have been able to utilize the traction battery for extended periods.
 
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