Crying Out for Help = MPG

I am sure that your MPGs will improve with the time. I have over 10K in my LC LC with FE roof rack and during last cold winter my MPG was about 19 and last summer about 22.5. I think that wheels' weight also makes a difference. Recently I switched from the heavier 20" rims to FE 18"style and MPG shows as 23.5 to 24. I have to drive another thousand miles to confirm it.
Thanks - fingers crossed.
 
There are tons of innuendo and superstition about Land Cruiser mileage out there. I had a similar experience (15 mpg, oversized tires, and "wtf, this is a hybrid"). I went as far as purchasing almost new factory correct wheels and tires to run while not wheeling. My mileage settled down OVER TIME (minimum 5k miles) and I currently get 19.5ish at 75 on the interstate and 22ish around town. Note this is with the smaller factory correct tires and about 7300 miles.

I recommend you completely avoid accepting any performance numbers the Land Cruiser gives to you as they will be off. You can see the error more easily via speed reporting than you can distance reporting but tires will affect both and THERE'S NOT CURRENTLY A WAY TO CORRECT IT. Therefore, the only way for you to determine your actual mileage is to either correct what your Land Cruiser tells you or to use non-vehicular metrology that will accurately reflect both actual distance and actual gallons used.

I am getting ready to travel which means the trail tires are going back on. Before I change the vehicle to trail configuration, I'll do a few mileage tests for trips I do more often to provide a baseline measurement of distance and efficiency to compare the tires on now (265/60-R20) and the trail tires (295/70-R18). The trip is in mid-May, will be done on the big tires, and will be approximately 3k miles so I should be able to provide some comparisons shortly.

Hang in there, better news is coming.
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I had to dig into this tire since the size you have isn't very common it seems. I was surprised when I read you had Deliums, since I have been running them on my full-suspension MTBs. I had no idea they even made a street tire.

The specs on that tire are crazy focused toward off-road use cases. I am surprised that a dealership would install those on a lot vehicle. 10-ply E rated, 18/32" tread height, 99mph speed rating. I couldn't verify the weight so I'll just take your word for it (I don't necessarily subscribe to the whole "unsprung weight" logic, because of science and stuff).

I am surprised no one has mentioned this yet, but those tires will be an impeding factor in achieving mpg numbers close to the EPA estimates. E-Load/LT tires are just built different, and that translates into how the tire contacts the road and rides. 12mpg is really low and the tires won't cause that alone, but they won't help.

I'd love to see a picture of those things on your LC.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, tire inflation is not the same as a standard SL tire either. 37psi is on the low side for a cold inflation temp. I'd bump that up to 40-45 and see how that impacts your efficiency for awhile. I'm very surprised this wasn't mentioned either.
That link to Delium tire for sale is not the size I have mine are 285/70/R17.
 
12mpg is insane. I have full steel skid plates, 34s, 200lb bumper with winch, roof top tent with box on top. I still sometimes get 19mpg if i'm careful. 17 is my normal mpg with all that and driving in normal mode.
 
That link to Delium tire for sale is not the size I have mine are 285/70/R17.
I am aware, I dug in and found your tire size w/ applicable stats. Everything I said is still true and specifically addressed to 285/70/17 E-load, extremely aggressive (Delium's description of this tire, not mine) AT tire you have installed.
 
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Out of left field question: are you using fuel with more than 10% ethenol?
 
There are tons of innuendo and superstition about Land Cruiser mileage out there. I had a similar experience (15 mpg, oversized tires, and "wtf, this is a hybrid"). I went as far as purchasing almost new factory correct wheels and tires to run while not wheeling. My mileage settled down OVER TIME (minimum 5k miles) and I currently get 19.5ish at 75 on the interstate and 22ish around town. Note this is with the smaller factory correct tires and about 7300 miles.

I recommend you completely avoid accepting any performance numbers the Land Cruiser gives to you as they will be off. You can see the error more easily via speed reporting than you can distance reporting but tires will affect both and THERE'S NOT CURRENTLY A WAY TO CORRECT IT. Therefore, the only way for you to determine your actual mileage is to either correct what your Land Cruiser tells you or to use non-vehicular metrology that will accurately reflect both actual distance and actual gallons used.

I am getting ready to travel which means the trail tires are going back on. Before I change the vehicle to trail configuration, I'll do a few mileage tests for trips I do more often to provide a baseline measurement of distance and efficiency to compare the tires on now (265/60-R20) and the trail tires (295/70-R18). The trip is in mid-May, will be done on the big tires, and will be approximately 3k miles so I should be able to provide some comparisons shortly.

Hang in there, better news is coming.
Oops! Apologies, Just re-ran tire sizes and your tire's nominal diameter is nearly the same as stock. My money is on DubDub for being closest to root cause. Correct sizing below:
IMG_5469.webp
 
12mpg seems pretty low, even with the larger tires. With that being said, in my experience with other vehicles, I've always had a hit on mpg when I added heavier tires. More weight for the engine to get moving and keep moving, but also more rolling resistance from the aggressive tread pattern. If you have a roof rack, that will also hit mpgs. 12 still seems pretty low. I have the 20" wheels and Nitto Ridge Grappler tires (not e-load) and everything else is stock. In 1800 miles so far my mpg has ranged from 19.0 to 21.4.

Are you hand calculating your mileage? If not, I'd check that first to see what you get and also make sure you account for the difference in tire size if it's larger.
 
My 2024 began with about 18MPG. Seemed like that would be a big issue considering the life of the truck.

Then at 13k miles, much improved. Recent tank of mixed driving averaged 24.6, with best in trip at 30.1.

Maintenance has been break-in oil change, then every 5k, and about 3 LIQUI MOLY DIJectron cleaners run through the tank over the 2.5 yrs.

Sunoco gas did get 2 mpg better than Costco. Always premium (10% ethanol), but thinking about going regular..
 

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My 2024 began with about 18MPG. Seemed like that would be a big issue considering the life of the truck.

Then at 13k miles, much improved. Recent tank of mixed driving averaged 24.6, with best in trip at 30.1.

Maintenance has been break-in oil change, then every 5k, and about 3 LIQUI MOLY DIJectron cleaners run through the tank over the 2.5 yrs.

Sunoco gas did get 2 mpg better than Costco. Always premium (10% ethanol), but thinking about going regular..
Mine says 11.8 mpg right now - going to order Nitto G3 275/70/R17 and save the 285 Deilums for another day.
 
I think i see the problem.....
Seriously though, if you want improved MPG hop on FB Market Place, buy a used set of stock 18" rims and tires.

Did that Trail Dust come with a roof rack (-4mpg at best)?

MPG will improve with engine break-in.
Use toyota 0w20 (toyota has high molybdenum 900 PPM)
Don't follow the 10k oil change recommendation, most people do the 1k "break-in" oil change, then 5k intervals after.
I'm actually on my 4th oil change @ 10300 miles.

I have stock Michelin XLT tires (18" bradley V wheels 26lbs each) factory height, no roof rack and can easily get 22+ MPG @ Bay Area driving speeds on 101.

MPG greatly improves under 65mph 23-32mpg
 
I’m getting about 22 on the highway and 26-28 in town, both on the OEM Dunlops and Blizzaks. My mileage did improve for some reason after the break-in but it was never as low as the OP reports.
 
I am surprised no one has mentioned this yet, but those tires will be an impeding factor in achieving mpg numbers close to the EPA estimates. E-Load/LT tires are just built different, and that translates into how the tire contacts the road and rides. 12mpg is really low and the tires won't cause that alone, but they won't help.
I agree with this, E-load mud terrain (M/T) tires are going to wreck fuel efficiency and very likely don't drive well on the highway. OP would be wise imo to ditch these for a lighter tire with a less agressive tread pattern in dimensions close to OEM for significant improvements in ride, handling, and fuel economy. There are Lots of 17" tire recommendations on this forum!
 
I will re-state that 400 miles is a very small sampling size for what the vehicle is displaying for MPG. All of the idling that likely occurred at port is probably still skewing the MPG displayed. When you reset mileage, it starts again and shows horrible mileage until that sample size increases.

The numbers will get better as miles travelled increases and the engine breaks in. The numbers should continue to improve as you get used to the vehicle.
 
I agree with @basicxj, and will also re-state that your E-load tires will be your main detriment if mpg is a priority, but it will not be the reason if you get 12mpg sustained.

Recognizing that my opinion is of limited to no value, I'd still ditch those tires. The fact that I have to perform surgery on my internet browser to find anything about them, and that they aren't carried nor reviewed by any major reputable resource even after being an offering for at least 5 years... and the fact that you can get them for $190/corner... nothing is a red flag, but there sure are a lot of cautionary yellow flags.
 
I agree with @basicxj, and will also re-state that your E-load tires will be your main detriment if mpg is a priority, but it will not be the reason if you get 12mpg sustained.

Recognizing that my opinion is of limited to no value, I'd still ditch those tires. The fact that I have to perform surgery on my internet browser to find anything about them, and that they aren't carried nor reviewed by any major reputable resource even after being an offering for at least 5 years... and the fact that you can get them for $190/corner... nothing is a red flag, but there sure are a lot of cautionary yellow flags.
Agreed just spoke with my mobile installer bringing the Nitto G3 275/70/17 in the next day or two. Actually very excited - I've tried calling the dealer to ask if they'd exchange and = no dice. A-holes - but buyer beware.
 
I’m firmly in the “gas costs what it costs” mindset, which I fully understand is a privilege as much as not needing to look at prices at the grocery store. But 12 ain’t right.

It may improve after the break in period. I was getting around 17mpg on the stock tires with no roof rack for the first few thousand miles, and then it crept up to around 25. Did some trips at 55mph getting 29mpg. With Grenadier takeoff KO2s (forget the size sorry, they’re very conservative) I average about 21mpg in warm weather and dip to 18-19mpg in the Ohio cold.

With aggressively sized tires I can totally see 12mpg when it’s brand new.

Edit: I keep my tires around 40-44psi given they are D load and the LC is relatively heavy. 35psi gave significantly worse fuel economy for me.

Edit 2 because dumb: I also have skids, a bull bar, and Sherpa rack
 
Agreed just spoke with my mobile installer bringing the Nitto G3 275/70/17 in the next day or two. Actually very excited - I've tried calling the dealer to ask if they'd exchange and = no dice. A-holes - but buyer beware.
Again, caveat that I am only sharing opinion, but why not the G3s in 285/70/17? They offer that size in SL and it is the closest you can get to the OEM 265/70-18 diameter with 17s (so your odo doesn't overreport your mileage).
 
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