🛠️ Member Build Brian’s "Goldbug" Build

Member Build
Nicely done on the build and photos to accommodate.
 
Slee radiator crossmember reinforcement install (plus Tacoma tow hooks Part Number: PT974-35250):

I should add step 0, removing the skid plate AND the plastic trim piece and bracket that holds it. Mine came with the upgraded engine skid plate, that plastic trim piece won’t be used once you install the Slee part.

IMG_3344.webp


You won't need this anymore. Those two bolts hold it on. Below, the no longer needed trim sitting on the bench.

IMG_3403.webp


With the skid plate off, you’ll then remove the factory tie down points.


IMG_4228.jpeg


I lifted the Slee part with a jack and started the recovery point bolts, then put in the skid plate bolts to center it and hold it up while I took the recovery point bolts back out and installed the red Tacoma tow hooks. Or you can just put the factory tie downs back on.

IMG_4256.jpeg

IMG_4248.jpeg
IMG_4262.jpeg


I put in bolts at all six available locations through the Slee part into the radiator crossmember to hopefully increase strength and resistance to any skid plate hits. The two outside ones will hold the skid plate. Four of those bolts are M8 x 1.25, 25mm long, the middle two are M10 x 1.25. 20mm long is long enough, longer than 25mm and they might bottom out. The extra bolts appear to just barely clear the installed skid plate, go with the lowest profile bolts you can find. I put a strip of rubber in there too, I’ll check it at the next oil change.

View toward the front from under.

IMG_4269.jpeg


Install complete:

IMG_4287.jpeg
IMG_4281.jpeg
IMG_4271.jpeg


If I was starting from scratch, I’d instead get a skid plate that mounts to the recovery points and protects the radiator crossmember without needing to connect to it. I’m viewing this as a second best, and probably plenty good enough, solution to avoiding damaging the very weak crossmember and radiator in normal (not rock crawling) off-road use.

Excuse any typos, I’m typing this up on my phone while waiting in the tire shop for my long overdue swap back to summer tires. I’ll proof read it for autocorrect errors when I get home!
 
Last edited:
Long overdue swap back to summer tires. I thought I'd add this just to show how I transport the tires, I got a cheap aluminum hitch mount cargo carrier so they don't have to cram the tires in the back.

IMG_4290.webp


IMG_4291.webp
 
I wish I could find five rims. Right now, it looks like I will end up buying 5 Tundra Steelies.
i just boguht 4 TRD 17" exactly what i wanted, picked up at the delar i like and they are glad to handle it at the special on line price, 1 day after order to pick up.
You can have shipped to you directly as well from any dealer you choose, not to get screwed the way the Tx guys do.

Get the toyota part number and search by that, plenty to choose from, you get the dealer discount after you choose a dealer and the price goes down.
 
An extra set of rims makers it much easier and you can even do it at home.
The winter tires are on the original 20" wheels, the AT tires are on Tacoma 18" wheels, so it's an easy swap. I'm old and have a bad back and America's Tire will swap them for free (I bought both sets of tires there) so I let them do it!
 
The winter tires are on the original 20" wheels, the AT tires are on Tacoma 18" wheels, so it's an easy swap. I'm old and have a bad back and America's Tire will swap them for free (I bought both sets of tires there) so I let them do it!
Oops yes i see they are on the rimms now, doh.
 
Last edited:
Removed my running boards today. And put on my temporary permanent plates (until my custom plates arrive...).

Taking off the running boards is just six bolts and unplugging a cable. The center top bolt has a slot and hole so you just loosen it, take out the rest, then grab the running board and slide it off the bolt. When it’s off, put all the bolts back in (I added some loctite).

For the plugs on the cables I ordered parts mentioned elsewhere on this forum (I'll put the link here when I find it) to cover it until/unless I wire something else up to it (in which case I'll order more of these plugs and use them for the intended purpose).

View attachment 24088

Those are the parts. The plug comes with pins and rubber seals you don't care about for this purpose. You take the separate sealed plugs and stuff them in the holes -- push them in all the way, not just part way as shown here. I then wrapped it in electrical tape and cable taped it back up to the cable.

View attachment 24089View attachment 24090

I actually think it looks better without the running boards, but that's just me. Next weekend (hopefully) I'll install the rock rails. (Added note: after having our FJ, my wife said it's easier for her to get in and out of the Land Cruiser now that the running boards are gone! Neither of us are tall. We're just used to a big step up I guess.)

Related: I now have running boards for sale if you're in the SF Bay area.

View attachment 24091

Post #39
 
I’ve had a difficult time determining what finish these have. Are the painted sections enamel/gloss or flat?

That combo looks ridiculously good on your TD w/ TRD upgrade wheels
Glossy. I thought it might be too much, but I do think it looks pretty good with that color.
 
I think those caps look fantastic with your color and those wheels. I think those are the best looking black wheels for our trucks by far. I like the GX over trail for gunmetal color. It’s a shame they quit putting your wheels on Tacos. Have a friend bought a new one and was so disappointed that he had to get the new two tone ones when he had your wheels on his old one that got totaled. Your rig is looking great.
 
Removed my running boards today. And put on my temporary permanent plates (until my custom plates arrive...).

Taking off the running boards is just six bolts and unplugging a cable. The center top bolt has a slot and hole so you just loosen it, take out the rest, then grab the running board and slide it off the bolt. When it’s off, put all the bolts back in (I added some loctite).

For the plugs on the cables I ordered parts mentioned elsewhere on this forum (I'll put the link here when I find it) to cover it until/unless I wire something else up to it (in which case I'll order more of these plugs and use them for the intended purpose).

View attachment 24088

Those are the parts. The plug comes with pins and rubber seals you don't care about for this purpose. You take the separate sealed plugs and stuff them in the holes -- push them in all the way, not just part way as shown here. I then wrapped it in electrical tape and cable taped it back up to the cable.

View attachment 24089View attachment 24090

I actually think it looks better without the running boards, but that's just me. Next weekend (hopefully) I'll install the rock rails. (Added note: after having our FJ, my wife said it's easier for her to get in and out of the Land Cruiser now that the running boards are gone! Neither of us are tall. We're just used to a big step up I guess.)

Related: I now have running boards for sale if you're in the SF Bay area.

View attachment 24091
Can you provide some more detail about the "plugs" for the running board lights? I got OEM rock rails from a first edition, but it only came with the bolts. I need to plug my wires for the running board lights. Your invoice picture shows 2 different items, and a total quantity of 11, so I'm a little confused.
 
Can you provide some more detail about the "plugs" for the running board lights? I got OEM rock rails from a first edition, but it only came with the bolts. I need to plug my wires for the running board lights. Your invoice picture shows 2 different items, and a total quantity of 11, so I'm a little confused.
You need two of the connectors (I got three) and six of the little rubber plugs (I got eight).
 
Supporting Vendors View all →
Canvasback
Back
Top Bottom