🛠️ Member Build Brian’s "Goldbug" Build
- Thread starter Markarian421
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Member Build
Hope everyone is having a good day,
I got the seat storage/gap fillers from Amazon. They have a few different styles to choose from. I attached the ones I purchased. It’s pretty handy to put sunglasses in or hold a drink in.
I tried to put one on the drivers side but my leg kept knocking it out when I exited.
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Not trying to offend anybody...... those seat/side pocket are not very useful. I have a set and about the only thing you can actually store in them is a cell phone and/or a pen. They squish flat when anything rests against them, slide when the seat slides, they interfere a bit with the seat belt buckle..... on a scale of 1-10 about a 1. I have purchased three different styles of pockets and the only useful ones are below. I through bolted them to the knee pads so they would never slip and am very happy with them. The yellow circles are where I through bolted them.
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- #44
I also find it kind of annoying when I'm in the passenger seat, but my wife really likes it. And yes just for small things like her phone, sunglasses, etc.
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- #45
Horn upgrade. Really pretty simple, just the complications of clips going missing and needing to adjust the angle of the brackets on the horns. You'll need a 12mm socket for the horn bolts and a 14mm wrench and vice for adjusting the brackets.
Note: see @Alpha Puppy's note below, order 08522-60010 instead of these to avoid having to adjust the arm angle!
See also the threads:
LC standard tin can horn upgrade to OEM Toyota Premium.
Toyota prem horn installed
Horn Swap to Premium horn
TOYOTA PREMIUM HORN UPGRADE
Step 1, push down on the center of these 8 rivets/clamps and then carefully remove them before lifting the cover. Otherwise they might go shooting off in random directions never to be seen again (don't ask me how I know). In which case it's good to know PN 90467-07217 for the clips.
Here are the old horns you're removing. Use a 12mm socket to remove the bolt, then undo the cable. I should have gotten a photo of the cable but you just press it to release it and then push down on a tab, it comes off easily.
I had to turn the arm on both my new horns for the cables to fit. The nut is really narrow, none of my 14mm sockets would work so I used a wrench and vice.
Then just put them back in where the old ones were, connect the cables and tighten the bolts.
For the clips, push the pin back up so the top button sticks out, put them in the cover, and push just until they're flat. One of mine just wanted to go all the way down, plastic clips aren't always suitable for reuse, so I replaced that one. And the one that went missing somewhere in the engine bay when I took the cover off.
Done. Now it doesn't sound like I'm driving a Jetta.
Note: see @Alpha Puppy's note below, order 08522-60010 instead of these to avoid having to adjust the arm angle!
See also the threads:
LC standard tin can horn upgrade to OEM Toyota Premium.
Toyota prem horn installed
Horn Swap to Premium horn
TOYOTA PREMIUM HORN UPGRADE
Step 1, push down on the center of these 8 rivets/clamps and then carefully remove them before lifting the cover. Otherwise they might go shooting off in random directions never to be seen again (don't ask me how I know). In which case it's good to know PN 90467-07217 for the clips.
Here are the old horns you're removing. Use a 12mm socket to remove the bolt, then undo the cable. I should have gotten a photo of the cable but you just press it to release it and then push down on a tab, it comes off easily.
I had to turn the arm on both my new horns for the cables to fit. The nut is really narrow, none of my 14mm sockets would work so I used a wrench and vice.
Then just put them back in where the old ones were, connect the cables and tighten the bolts.
For the clips, push the pin back up so the top button sticks out, put them in the cover, and push just until they're flat. One of mine just wanted to go all the way down, plastic clips aren't always suitable for reuse, so I replaced that one. And the one that went missing somewhere in the engine bay when I took the cover off.
Done. Now it doesn't sound like I'm driving a Jetta.
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It's interesting that you and several others had to take the extra step of rotating the clamp arms to the correct orientation. My set came with them in the correct position so my upgrade was even easier.... Wonder if there is a party number difference where the horns are the same but the arm's orientation different....
Great explanation with the annotated photos, thanks for taking the time to do this for the great benefit of others.
Great explanation with the annotated photos, thanks for taking the time to do this for the great benefit of others.
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- #47
What PN was yours?
My horns are PN 08522-60010.
I got them from eBay here: eBay Premium Horn 08522-60010
I'd recommend people get that P/N to save one step and the hassle of reorienting the arms.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
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- #49
A pretty minor update, but I installed this phone mount from @StickerFab :
Axis Japan Custom Phone Mount - 2024+ Land Cruiser
I got it with the magnetic mount which works well. The one place where I find myself wanting to have access to my phone screen is Apple Music — the CarPlay interface is useless if you’re looking for a specific album or track, it will only show you some tiny seemingly random subset of your library and Siri’s is terrible at bringing up the right music.
It pops into place easily and seems solid, I’m not going to use the adhesive unless I find I need it. It feels like it’s made out of 3d printer plastic material which gives me some long term concerns since if that is what it is, that stuff can turn brittle over time. If not, I like the idea of a o-ring I can replace for grip. My wife’s iPhone pro max is shown, and you can see it will slightly block the left side of the main screen form the driver’s seat, but if you’re in CarPlay and not full screen, it only blocks the Toyota menu. I like the round magnetic mount that comes with it but I might also try an offset mount.
Edit/update: another member had theirs snap in half, reinforcing my concerns about it being a brittle 3D printed part.
See: OEM rear differential skid plate installation
Axis Japan Custom Phone Mount - 2024+ Land Cruiser
I got it with the magnetic mount which works well. The one place where I find myself wanting to have access to my phone screen is Apple Music — the CarPlay interface is useless if you’re looking for a specific album or track, it will only show you some tiny seemingly random subset of your library and Siri’s is terrible at bringing up the right music.
It pops into place easily and seems solid, I’m not going to use the adhesive unless I find I need it. It feels like it’s made out of 3d printer plastic material which gives me some long term concerns since if that is what it is, that stuff can turn brittle over time. If not, I like the idea of a o-ring I can replace for grip. My wife’s iPhone pro max is shown, and you can see it will slightly block the left side of the main screen form the driver’s seat, but if you’re in CarPlay and not full screen, it only blocks the Toyota menu. I like the round magnetic mount that comes with it but I might also try an offset mount.
Edit/update: another member had theirs snap in half, reinforcing my concerns about it being a brittle 3D printed part.
See: OEM rear differential skid plate installation
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Looks nice!
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- #51
New shoes. Tacoma TRD 18x8” wheels PTR56-35242-F1 with Toyota bronze center caps PT280-35221-5F and 265/70R18 SL Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac RT tires. Three ply sidewalls even in standard load.
So after contemplating that comprehensive tire spreadsheet, what swayed you to the Duratracs, and the size at 265/70? Did you happen to measure minimum ground clearance after adding new wheels/tires?
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- #54
I probably started biased since I've run the older Duratracs on my FJs and never had a problem (or a flat) with them. Mostly I wanted something durable off-road but not super heavy and not E-load. I would have preferred 275/70R18 and C load but there aren't any options there yet. So I went with a standard load AT/RT tire with Kevlar and three ply sidewalls. Runners up: the Nokian Outpost nAt was temping and a little lighter, but I've heard pretty mixed reviews of them in this size. The Nitto G3 was also tempting as one of the few 275/70R18 and standard load options, but they're new enough it was hard to judge how durable they are, and they only have two ply sidewalls.
If weight and stiffness were not considerations I would have gone with K03s or Falken AT4W's, although the variations in sidewall design for different sizes of the AT4W's perplexes me. Depending on size there are at least four sidewall options.
Here's hoping that by the time I decide to replace these, there are a lot more C & D load options and 275/70R18 options. Discount Tire says there will be a D load K03 in 265/70R18 next year, I'll be interested to see what those weigh and if they improve the ride vs. the E load version.
I'll try to remember to measure clearance the next time I'm under there. I do have some new mud flaps to install.
Thanks for your detailed response.
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- #56
I installed Rokblokz mud flaps, standard size. The additional width is a great fit for these wheels and tires.
Product link: https://rokblokz.com/products/toyota-land-cruiser-2024-mud-flaps
Install video (featuring @UtahCruiser's Land Cruiser):
Really only two details I'd add to the video:
Perfect for these tires and wheels.
Product link: https://rokblokz.com/products/toyota-land-cruiser-2024-mud-flaps
Install video (featuring @UtahCruiser's Land Cruiser):
Really only two details I'd add to the video:
- On that front lower trim piece, part of the mud flap goes in front, the part with the screw holes goes under it. It took me a minute to figure out how it fit together.
- The short clip that goes behind it onto the metal mount is a little tricky. I slathered the metal mount with fluid film which helped it slide on and into place.
Perfect for these tires and wheels.
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- #57
Some cosmetic changes:
Up next:
- My custom "1960's Legacy" plates showed up. They go much better with the Trail Dust color. (Not my actual plate #...)
- Finally blacked out the badge. It doesn't black out the circle though? Toyota PN: PT948-60250-02
Up next:
The stickerfab blackouts do cover the circle. I also have the same Toyota blackout (haven't put it on yet, because winter), but I kinda like the circle, how else will people know you drive a hybrid! Good for you!
I do agree the circle by itself does look a little off against the trail dust. I'm expecting mine to match the heritage blue a bit better, but we'll see when I get around to putting it on!
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- #59
I installed the rear differential skid plate last weekend.
Installation instructions attached. See also this thread: OEM rear differential skid plate installation
Notes:
From the back of the vehicle, these are the brake line bolts you need to remove and the where the brackets will go.
The one closest to the diff on this side is where you'll run into a tight fit with wrenches.
Here's how far I got before I realized I was going to need to tighten it back down and use a different wrench.
I really did not enjoy moving the brake lines, but once the brackets are in place the rest is easy. Well maybe except for the one brake line bolt.
Remember to bolt the brake lines back down!
Installation instructions attached. See also this thread: OEM rear differential skid plate installation
Notes:
- Clearance is decreased by 9/16” according to my laser distance thingamajig measuring to the center of the low point.
- You do need a short/small socket for one of the brake line bolts. I got it started with a 1/4” drive socket, then removed and started it again with a wrench.
- Unlike the directions, it seems like you need to hook one end of the bracket under the sway bar, then carefully(!!!) move the brake line out just enough to get it under. The directions seem to say you would get it under the brake line first, but I could not figure out any way to get it under the sway bar if I did that.
From the back of the vehicle, these are the brake line bolts you need to remove and the where the brackets will go.
The one closest to the diff on this side is where you'll run into a tight fit with wrenches.
Here's how far I got before I realized I was going to need to tighten it back down and use a different wrench.
I really did not enjoy moving the brake lines, but once the brackets are in place the rest is easy. Well maybe except for the one brake line bolt.
Remember to bolt the brake lines back down!
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