Anti-Theft Relay

[EOD Guy]

Question, does this require you cut any existing wires on the vehicle? Are you able to just dummy in new connectors without actually changing any of the original structure/wires of the LC 250 as is? This may already be answered in your post but my understanding is limited.

No cutting of any wires. Think of it like an extension cord and you modify the extension cord but if you unplug the extension cord you can still plug the pump back into the OEM socket. There is a method behind my madness............ should I ever need warranty work on the fuel pump,, in 20 minutes, I'll be able to disconnect and remove any evidence I was ever there......LOL

The only thing I haven't finalized yet, is how/where to pass the two breakout wires from the outside to the interior. My current thought is make a small bridge that'll prevent the wires from being pinched by the cover. The cover is held in place by butyl rubber sealant (no fasteners) or I ordered some 45 degree rubber gromets. If they work out, I'll be more than happy to send you one as I had to buy 50 of them.

 

[cruiser_ss396]

I have had in my 67 Camaro for about 5 years now and anti theft system that is built into the distributor. It’s Bluetooth module that Connects via my phone via an app and disables the distributor and enables it with a PIN number entry. With it on the only bypass is to replace the distributor or tow the car. There is no hot wiring it which is really cool. The distributor also is programmed by the app for ignition curve and I can have multiple curves. Basically making my stroker engine electronics controlled for all its timing/advance/curve needs but runs on a 750 double pumper carburetor.

Not sure where/how but a Bluetooth module in the LC 250 that could be activated/deactivated by a PIN code app in car play would be cool….or just by the phone??

 

[AgRN16]

No cutting of any wires. Think of it like an extension cord and you modify the extension cord but if you unplug the extension cord you can still plug the pump back into the OEM socket. There is a method behind my madness............ should I ever need warranty work on the fuel pump,, in 20 minutes, I'll be able to disconnect and remove any evidence I was ever there......LOL

The only thing I haven't finalized yet, is how/where to pass the two breakout wires from the outside to the interior. My current thought is make a small bridge that'll prevent the wires from being pinched by the cover. The cover is held in place by butyl rubber sealant (no fasteners) or I ordered some 45 degree rubber gromets. If they work out, I'll be more than happy to send you one as I had to buy 50 of them.

Count me in! I'll cover cost and can even pay you on top. Just let us know when you have a working finalized prototype

 

[EOD Guy]

Count me in! I'll cover cost and can even pay you on top. Just let us know when you have a working finalized prototype

Not to dampen your hopes, I don't sell anything I make, liability is just too great.

 

[EOD Guy]

Update: I apologize to anyone following this thread.

My bench testing was valid, breakout harness installed and with the breakout wire separated (untwisted) the engine ran for approx 30 sec then died. When the breakout wire was reconnected (wires twisted back together) the engine started and ran fine with an error code than went away on the next key/drive cycle etc........ The RFID switch, momentary switch and relays worked perfect on the bench. When I hooked everything into the breakout harness. Warning messages went crazy and were reoccurring and the engine did not die. I'll need to do more testing to see if the resistance in the wiring, relays and connections is too much for the LC's system or one of my components went bad. I suspect the dash mounted momentary switch was damaged and is not actually tripping the relay, IDK. I'm going to try a simple on/off toggle switch to verify my suspicions.

It's the strangest thing I've ever come across.

(Edit) After a couple of hours of circuit testing, I realized, I have been a victim of the Hybrid engine shut off............. 10 tries of twisting wires together and it working 10 times in a row..... on the 11th try (and the doors being opened for a couple hours) the engine didn't shut down! Turned on everything that used electricity to drain the battery a bit, and it failed every time and went into limp mode! So ...... version 2, I'm going to look at disconnecting all 4 wires the lead to the fuel pump with 4 bi-stable relays.

 

[ultane]

If anyone can figure it out, you can!!

 

[MSINAL]

Update: I apologize to anyone following this thread.

My bench testing was valid, breakout harness installed and with the breakout wire separated (untwisted) the engine ran for approx 30 sec then died. When the breakout wire was reconnected (wires twisted back together) the engine started and ran fine with an error code than went away on the next key/drive cycle etc........ The RFID switch, momentary switch and relays worked perfect on the bench. When I hooked everything into the breakout harness. Warning messages went crazy and were reoccurring and the engine did not die. I'll need to do more testing to see if the resistance in the wiring, relays and connections is too much for the LC's system or one of my components went bad. I suspect the dash mounted momentary switch was damaged and is not actually tripping the relay, IDK. I'm going to try a simple on/off toggle switch to verify my suspicions.

It's the strangest thing I've ever come across.

Did you check if they're using PWM for the fuel pump, this has kicked my butt before with lighting circuits.

 

[vcs111]

EOD Guy is head of Q Branch, the research and development department division of MI6 responsible for creating high-tech gadgets, vehicles, and weapons for 007 and the LC 250.

I'm pretty sure he is the inspiration for MacGyver

 

[EOD Guy]

Did you check if they're using PWM for the fuel pump, this has kicked my butt before with lighting circuits.

Definingly using PWM as the dash lit up like a Christmas tree! I don't want to modify anything electronic, would void the warranty. more of a physical disconnect.

 

[MSINAL]

Definingly using PWM as the dash lit up like a Christmas tree! I don't want to modify anything electronic, would void the warranty. more of a physical disconnect.

ECU detects the circuit break for diagnostics doable, but will take sometime in front of an oscope and a custom IC. best bet might be to use your rfid circuit and switch a solenoid valve (like used in race cars) inline with fuel supply.

 

[EOD Guy]

ECU detects the circuit break for diagnostics doable, but will take sometime in front of an oscope and a custom IC. best bet might be to use your rfid circuit and switch a solenoid valve (like used in race cars) inline with fuel supply.

I'm currently looking at disconnecting all 4 wires (low tech), something that can be disconnected on the side of the road, should a breakdown occur and a trip to the dealer is required.

 

[EOD Guy]

Update:

I successfully installed the fuel pump cutout system and it worked exactly as it was supposed to.

I have since uninstalled that system as it threw error codes, they did go away after a key cycle + a short drive. However it was quite annoying waiting for the error messages to disappear, and it didn't seem consistent with the mileage as to when the error messages disappeared.

So ...... I copied the 41.22 Starter cutout relay using a modified OEM purple relay. I wanted to make the mod as un-noticeable as possible, so I located the wire at the bottom of the relay. I think that's as good as I can make it.

I removed the cover, drilled a small hole where the wire would exit, cut out the side to make the hole into a slot. Soldered a new wire to the interior portion of the neg tang and snapped the cover back on. Cut off the Neg side terminal leg.

The second purple relay in the picture is the OEM starter relay that I placed in the empty slot. Sould anything fail, I can replace the modified relay with the OEM and go on my merry way.

I'm using a momentary push button switch (behind a flip door) to turn "Off" the relay and an RFID fob/card, hidden behind the center console, to turn the relay back "On"

Both of my switches are not necessary, but I didn't want a thief to discover a hidden switch and be able to flip it and drive away.

It works GREAT!

 

[virginia-john]

AWESOME! Does this setup draw any power when parked?

 

[EOD Guy]

AWESOME! Does this setup draw any power when parked?

No, The USB hub that provides the 5v to the RFID circuit board is sister'd to the Ctr console rear USB ports and the Pwr for the "bistable" relay is sister'd to the cigar lighter via DIY breakout harnesses. Both of those items are "Key on" so no parasitic drain.

If you wanted, you could use a well-hidden toggle switch and no power is required. The toggle would provide/switch the ground to the relay.

I have the blue tag (1 of 3) and I carry a RFID card in my wallet. The target area is about 3", so my wallet held up against the ctr console near the target area works very well.

 

[ultane]

When I grow up, I want to be like EOD Guy..

 

[EOD Guy]

I think I'm finished with my starter relay "anti-theft" system. For those following this thread, the blue RFID tag was, IMO, an additional piece to keep track of etc......

So .... I disassembled the blue tag, removed the FRID antenna and chip, encased the components in "super glue" and slid those under the cover of the OEM leather, FOB case. It works very well!

 

[OldMan]

Hi,
If I’ve understood everything correctly, you modified a genuine Toyota starter relay yourself to match the one sold by 41.22.

I honestly wouldn't mind buying their product for $100—even if the box, which doesn't actually contain anything substantial, is a bit of an over-the-top touch. It does look nice for the thieves, though.

But how is the internal quality compared to the original Japanese Denso unit?

Do you happen to have a photo of the disassembled Denso relay?

I’m also curious whether the original Denso relay includes a flyback diode for circuit protection. The expensive european cars like bmw or porsche often use a 1N4007 diode in the starter relays for this purpose.

Thanks and best regards.

 

[EOD Guy]

Hi,
If I’ve understood everything correctly, you modified a genuine Toyota starter relay yourself to match the one sold by 41.22.

I honestly wouldn't mind buying their product for $100—even if the box, which doesn't actually contain anything substantial, is a bit of an over-the-top touch. It does look nice for the thieves, though.

But how is the internal quality compared to the original Japanese Denso unit?

Do you happen to have a photo of the disassembled Denso relay?

I’m also curious whether the original Denso relay includes a flyback diode for circuit protection. The expansiv european cars like bmw or porsche often use a 1N4007 diode in the starter relays for this purpose.

Thanks and best regards.

The $100 relay appears to use a standard cheap relay, I do not know this but it appears to be the case. I did not notice a "flyback diode" but I wasn't looking for it either. My thought was using a OEM starter relay (purple) and cutting the neg leg off wouldn't change the internal workings of the relay nor the reliability of the OEM relay vs the cheap relay's longevity.

Post #1 in this thread has a photo of a Denso relay (blue colored). The purple-colored starter relay was actually easier to modify (solder the wire to) than the blue relay. I wanted to use an OEM purple relay with the wire exiting at the bottom of the relay vs the $100 relay which exits at the top. My thought is if anyone with knowledge tries to steal my LC and pops open the fuse box, they would immediately notice a relay with a wire sticking out of it and simply pull that relay and substitute one of the nearby relays etc...... If they open my fuse box, everything appears normal. And I do realize a jumper wire could bypass the relay function all together.