Another flat battery on Brand New LC

[sweet5ltr]

We purchased the 2027 LC 250 a week ago, drove it 175 miles to the garage and parked it but when we tried to take it for a spin 5 days later….dead battery.

I charged it and took it back to the dealer where they did a parasitic drain test, load test, and voltage measurements showing the battery in perfect health…etc…

The service advisor told me in writing that I should delete the Toyota app from my phone and delete my phone from the Land Cruiser and then reinstall the app and phone because something “might be stuck”.

I did that nonsense and now three days later after being told nothing was wrong, the not running battery voltage is down to 12.17 V again from a high of 12.76 at the dealer.

The LC has been locked and sitting in my shed for three days with nothing on.

I purchased a Noco starting battery and a Noko trickle charger which is currently plugged in in the rear cargo area directly charging the battery. The gauge on the trickle charger showed it with barely any voltage so I am waiting to see how long it takes to charge back up.

The charger would not work plugged into the terminal under the hood for whatever reason so I had to put it directly on the battery.

What the heck is going on with these vehicles’ batteries going dead after three or four days parked with nothing turned on? That's unacceptable at an $80,000 price tag.

Buy an H6 AGM. Time is money, and the dealer certainly isn't worth our time for this issue. It will continue to happen with the OEM battery.

 

[basicxj]

Yeah, good advice , I went in ready to request the EFB version however they declined to replace the OEM battery. It passed all their tests, and needed a failing test to replace under warranty.

They blamed my Thinkware dashcam for discharging the 12v battery. They claimed vehicle logs (pages and pages of logs that they could not extract from the vehicle to show me) revealed that the dash cam system is switching the car to "accessory" mode and drawing significantly from the battery when in parking/surveillance mode.

The thing is, the dash cam is supposed to be drawing from its own battery pack, which is something I added to that installation to prevent exactly an issue like this. And the battery pack is supposed to charge when the vehicle is running only. But I guess it's possible there could be an issue with this, so I'm going to go back to the installer to have this checked . I may have to disconnect the whole thing to rule it out, before going back to Toyota.

I am assuming the installer tied the dash cam battery into the passenger’s side fuse box. It would be revealing to know which fuse he tapped.

It should have been one that is on the switched 12V side (charging when vehicle is running rather than always placing a draw on the battery). A photo illustrating where the fuse tap is would help.

 

[bigcat]

I am assuming the installer tied the dash cam battery into the passenger’s side fuse box. It would be revealing to know which fuse he tapped.

It should have been one that is on the switched 12V side (charging when vehicle is running rather than always placing a draw on the battery). A photo illustrating where the fuse tap is would help.

Thank you for this...., could be huge, will investigate.

 

[sweet5ltr]

I am assuming the installer tied the dash cam battery into the passenger’s side fuse box. It would be revealing to know which fuse he tapped.

It should have been one that is on the switched 12V side (charging when vehicle is running rather than always placing a draw on the battery). A photo illustrating where the fuse tap is would help.

Takes a half hour going through the fuses with a multi meter to validate switched and constant 12V power, then to verify if that fuse potentially blowing will leave you stranded or only be a minor inconvenience. I wouldn't even trust a dealership to do this, let alone a third party.

 

[basicxj]

Takes a half hour going through the fuses with a multi meter to validate switched and constant 12V power, then to verify if that fuse potentially blowing will leave you stranded or only be a minor inconvenience. I wouldn't even trust a dealership to do this, let alone a third party.

I can agree with the sentiment. I wouldn’t trust a 3rd party (dealership or otherwise). Being a curious kind of guy, I’d want to know the exact circuit myself, and would be more inclined to run new wire from the under hood fuse box- less likely to keep something on the CanBus network awake inadvertently.