Do you mean the tingling in my nads isn’t a scientific measure‽
Would a 2.5” lift actually make a noticeable difference in Rollover potential for hwy drivers
- Thread starter lc27
- Start date
EXACTLY, better suspension, stiffer sway bars yadayada reduce perception of inclination but they do not change the physics. Actually compliance lets you actually feel the transitions more. A tire that releases grip more readily does the same thing by allowing lateral movement instead of increasing forces resulting in the "lean". Dirt releases lateral traction easier...unless obstructions spike the forces. Tar is about the grippiest surface a tire experiences so the lateral forces will end up much higher.
All the perception and awareness and mods in the world do not matter when a child runs in front of any vehicle and your 100% instinct is to yank that wheel as hard as fast as possible while praying! No fearmongering insinuated please. I am just saying there is a reason dealers/manufacturers are so guarded about lifts.......100% go for it if you spend a lot of time on dirt, offroading etc. On a street car done for "looks" think twice.
All the perception and awareness and mods in the world do not matter when a child runs in front of any vehicle and your 100% instinct is to yank that wheel as hard as fast as possible while praying! No fearmongering insinuated please. I am just saying there is a reason dealers/manufacturers are so guarded about lifts.......100% go for it if you spend a lot of time on dirt, offroading etc. On a street car done for "looks" think twice.
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What if you just lift the front to be level with the rear - which mine is from the dealer.
Not disputing any of the information shared above.......... It boils down to how much lift you install and if you are willing to alter your driving habits...........I’m new, so please be kind…I know nothing about anything, just worked real hard to get my dream vehicle & the day has come. I’m here to learn from the pros
I am getting my 2027 LC (in trail dust) later this month & am wondering whether or not I should get a lift. I do a lot of outdoors stuff, am on all sorts of terrain & love the more aggressive look, but I also do a lot of daily driving on windy hwy & non hwy roads w/tourists that don’t know how to drive, fallen trees, random rockslides, & wildlife that cause you to suddenly swerve or hit the brakes unexpectedly.
I rarely drive our truck & have a heavy foot in cars (or so I’m told). Although I’ve been reminding myself that I can’t haul ass like I do in my car now, I didn’t really think about how much a lift would increase the possibility of me rolling on a sharp turn or while swerving at a higher speed. Any thoughts? Anyone have pictures of a similar setup below?
This is the setup I am considering:
2.5” Westcott lift
285/70/17 WILDPEAK A/T4W
Method 316 wheels
1" to 1.5" of lift and stock'ish tire size, you probably won't be able to tell any difference at hiway speeds. 2" plus and 35" tires, then tire flex and the raised center of gravity play a larger role. If you don't drive it like a sports car and drive it like what it is............ It'll probably be ok. There are too many lifted vehicles that safety drive on the road on a daily basis ...........
You just have to adapt your hiway speed driving style.
Don’t waste your moneyI’m new, so please be kind…I know nothing about anything, just worked real hard to get my dream vehicle & the day has come. I’m here to learn from the pros
I am getting my 2027 LC (in trail dust
I rarely drive our truck & have a heavy foot in cars (or so I’m told
This is the setup I am considering:
2.5” Westcott lift
285/70/17 WILDPEAK A/T4W
Method 316 wheels
Get your dealer to do a ADAS calibration after your lift & tires are installed. I had it done so the safety sense system gets a new zero point, & makes sure all safety sensors are calibrated & aimed correctly. Don’t forget after any level to do 4 wheel alignment, & road force balance your tire/wheels. You’ll be good to go.
Westcott 2.5”/1”
275/60R20 AT4W Wildpeaks
1” SpiderTrax Spacers
KDSS B.O.T.C.K. Rear link kit
T3LCFE Principles:
Go high must go wide (wider tire width, wider stand) to balance. Adjustable dampers/compression to tailor your drive per road conditions (paved road, rough/rocky trails)
Don’t go cheap / downgraded (for your expensive rig) or Don’t Do Anything / Stay with Stock if only street rolling primary
Go upgraded instead
You don’t have to agree with T3LCFE Principles, but don’t throw rocks
… please 
My life philosophy: No crazy argument to prove right or wrong…Just share experiences and listen to others.
I love the “Lifted” but must do it “right”
Go high must go wide (wider tire width, wider stand) to balance. Adjustable dampers/compression to tailor your drive per road conditions (paved road, rough/rocky trails)
Don’t go cheap / downgraded (for your expensive rig) or Don’t Do Anything / Stay with Stock if only street rolling primary
Go upgraded instead
You don’t have to agree with T3LCFE Principles, but don’t throw rocks
… please My life philosophy: No crazy argument to prove right or wrong…Just share experiences and listen to others.
I love the “Lifted” but must do it “right”
To echo what the others have said, I would not worry about making your rig a roll-happy boat after a lift, but there are a few precautions you can take to make sure it still handles confidently on the highway.
1) 2.5 of lift out back isn't crazy, but it is significant. Funky pan hard bar angles can cause some really unsettling handling characteristics. 2.5" is starting to approach the height where I would look into a Dr. KDSS correction kit. Making sure your pan hard bar is parallel to the ground makes a huge difference in neutral handling.
2) A slightly wider stance (wider or more offset wheels) goes a long way at un-doing some of the height to width ratio increase, bringing it closer to stock-like handling.
3) A set of quality dampers will be significantly better at controlling body motion than the stock setup.
Not all of this is necessarily required, but together, will help to have a rig with more height and approach angle than stock while still retaining competent road manners.
1) 2.5 of lift out back isn't crazy, but it is significant. Funky pan hard bar angles can cause some really unsettling handling characteristics. 2.5" is starting to approach the height where I would look into a Dr. KDSS correction kit. Making sure your pan hard bar is parallel to the ground makes a huge difference in neutral handling.
2) A slightly wider stance (wider or more offset wheels) goes a long way at un-doing some of the height to width ratio increase, bringing it closer to stock-like handling.
3) A set of quality dampers will be significantly better at controlling body motion than the stock setup.
Not all of this is necessarily required, but together, will help to have a rig with more height and approach angle than stock while still retaining competent road manners.
