🛠️ What Have You Done To Your LC250 Today?

I dropped the skid and did my first oil change (at 800km), and the skid didn't want to cooperate. Toyota 0W20 and factory filter/crush washer. I wanted to try it without ramps to achieve a more complete drain. I have a pair of Rhino ramps, but being stubborn I squeezed myself underneath and got 'er done. I learned a few things in the process:

- A Fumoto valve with hose will likely be in my Amazon cart soon, provided the dealer won't balk at one being installed when they do the free services

- Toyota did a pretty good job with the access plate where the drain plug is...minimal splash on surrounding parts

-Toyota did a great job with the built-in funnel below the oil filter

-The Motivx oil filter wrench worked like a champ to get the super tight factory filter to turn (appreciate the recommendations from the forum)

-Two drain pans come in handy, one for drain plug and one for the filter

-There isn't quite enough room to get my face under the drain plug with flashlight in hand to pry away the old crush washer (so a diet is in my future)

-While the factory fill of oil was dark, it didn't smell of fuel and I did not see any metallic particles

- The electric ratchet that I got last winter will make life easy going forwards

I'll repeat the process in another 800km, and again at 8000/16,000 but I'll definitely be using the ramps next time. I used to be able to get under my Jeep JKU pretty well to drain the oil, but the Land Cruiser sits a good bit lower. I'll consider adding the full size aluminum skid plate between now and then as I like the way two of the bolts support it in the middle. If anyone has this aluminum skid, I'd be interested in hearing if it has the same two hooks closest to the front bumper- those are the ones that didn't want to cooperate for me.
 
I dropped the skid and did my first oil change (at 800km), and the skid didn't want to cooperate. Toyota 0W20 and factory filter/crush washer. I wanted to try it without ramps to achieve a more complete drain. I have a pair of Rhino ramps, but being stubborn I squeezed myself underneath and got 'er done. I learned a few things in the process:

- A Fumoto valve with hose will likely be in my Amazon cart soon, provided the dealer won't balk at one being installed when they do the free services

- Toyota did a pretty good job with the access plate where the drain plug is...minimal splash on surrounding parts

-Toyota did a great job with the built-in funnel below the oil filter

-The Motivx oil filter wrench worked like a champ to get the super tight factory filter to turn (appreciate the recommendations from the forum)

-Two drain pans come in handy, one for drain plug and one for the filter

-There isn't quite enough room to get my face under the drain plug with flashlight in hand to pry away the old crush washer (so a diet is in my future)

-While the factory fill of oil was dark, it didn't smell of fuel and I did not see any metallic particles

- The electric ratchet that I got last winter will make life easy going forwards

I'll repeat the process in another 800km, and again at 8000/16,000 but I'll definitely be using the ramps next time. I used to be able to get under my Jeep JKU pretty well to drain the oil, but the Land Cruiser sits a good bit lower. I'll consider adding the full size aluminum skid plate between now and then as I like the way two of the bolts support it in the middle. If anyone has this aluminum skid, I'd be interested in hearing if it has the same two hooks closest to the front bumper- those are the ones that didn't want to cooperate for me.
Fomoto eliminates the plug hassle. The alum skid has what I call "eye slots" that allows you to remove most of the bolts (except for the two in the eye slots) then back the last two bolts about 1/2 way out and slide/shift the skid to clear the "eye" part of the slot and drop the skid in a controlled manner. To reinstall the skid raise the skid over the two bolts and let it rest in the slot part. Makes it go really easy vs trying to hold up the skid and align a bolt etc.....

The only thing that would have made it better would be an access panel to get at the filter without dropping the skid, like on my Tacoma TRD skid.
 
Fomoto eliminates the plug hassle. The alum skid has what I call "eye slots" that allows you to remove most of the bolts (except for the two in the eye slots) then back the last two bolts about 1/2 way out and slide/shift the skid to clear the "eye" part of the slot and drop the skid in a controlled manner. To reinstall the skid raise the skid over the two bolts and let it rest in the slot part. Makes it go really easy vs trying to hold up the skid and align a bolt etc.....

The only thing that would have made it better would be an access panel to get at the filter without dropping the skid, like on my Tacoma TRD skid.

Yes, looking forward to the Fumoto. I'm leaning towards the one with the nipple for a hose. Aim the hose with one hand, remove the plastic lock and flip the lever with the other.

Do you have the aluminum skid plate on your LC? I am mostly wondering about the front attachment point, if it has those same two hooks that must engage at the forward edge to attach the skidplate so the bolt holes line up.

Yes, an access panel would be handy for the oil filter. From what I have read, the aluminum skid is similar in weight to the steel one that came on our Premium. There are probably enough changes between the Tacoma TRD skidplate and what is sold for the Land Cruiser that nothing lines up.

My Chief Financial Officer would probably prefer me to stay with the OEM skid than go aluminum at additional cost, so I'll have to spirit some general revenue away from her prying eyes in small doses over time and pull the trigger on the upgraded skidplate later- since she doesn't do the oil changes, she won't see the value in that addition.
 
Added a few items. Rago front and rear bumper, 35 inch Falkien tires, Wescott pre collar lift, KC, Rigid lights up front, Wren Winch, and a few other toys.
IMG_0329.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0400.jpeg
    IMG_0400.jpeg
    573.4 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_0399.jpeg
    IMG_0399.jpeg
    548 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_0398.jpeg
    IMG_0398.jpeg
    475.8 KB · Views: 45
  • IMG_0331.jpeg
    IMG_0331.jpeg
    387.5 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_0329.jpeg
    IMG_0329.jpeg
    412.9 KB · Views: 39
Yes, looking forward to the Fumoto. I'm leaning towards the one with the nipple for a hose. Aim the hose with one hand, remove the plastic lock and flip the lever with the other.

Do you have the aluminum skid plate on your LC? I am mostly wondering about the front attachment point, if it has those same two hooks that must engage at the forward edge to attach the skidplate so the bolt holes line up.

Yes, an access panel would be handy for the oil filter. From what I have read, the aluminum skid is similar in weight to the steel one that came on our Premium. There are probably enough changes between the Tacoma TRD skidplate and what is sold for the Land Cruiser that nothing lines up.

My Chief Financial Officer would probably prefer me to stay with the OEM skid than go aluminum at additional cost, so I'll have to spirit some general revenue away from her prying eyes in small doses over time and pull the trigger on the upgraded skidplate later- since she doesn't do the oil changes, she won't see the value in that addition.
For the Fumoto, I have approx 10-11 inches of hose that stays on the nipple (deff get the one with a nipple), to use remove the plastic clip, put the hose in a 1 gal milk jug, flip the valve. When the milk jug gets close to full, close the valve and get another container...... no drips, no mess, no fuss.

The Alum skid came stock on my FE. I don't remember two hooks, but wasn't paying attention either.

(edit) the LC's silver skids are made of steel.
 
For the Fumoto, I have approx 10-11 inches of hose that stays on the nipple (deff get the one with a nipple), to use remove the plastic clip, put the hose in a 1 gal milk jug, flip the valve. When the milk jug gets close to full, close the valve and get another container...... no drips, no mess, no fuss.

The Alum skid came stock on my FE. I don't remember two hooks, but wasn't paying attention either.

We tend not to use much milk, but I hear you. I have a couple of dedicated drain pans, and one has a spout I usually use to pour the used oil back into the bottles and take to be recycled. My other pan is about 10 quarts and was designed to be a carry jug for recycling, it works pretty well. The local recycling center will take oil containers, waste oil and used filters, so I make a trip a few times a year.

I am a firm believer in synthetic oil, and even when you factor in the extra cost, oil is still the cheapest thing you can put into an engine. If Fumoto simplifies that process it sounds good to me.
 
I'll consider adding the full size aluminum skid plate between now and then as I like the way two of the bolts support it If anyone has this aluminum skid, I'd be interested in hearing if it has the same two hooks closest to the front bumper- those are the ones that didn't want to cooperate for me.

The Alum skid came stock on my FE. I don't remember two hooks, but wasn't paying attention either.
Maybe it doesn’t really matter here, but if you’re talking about the silver Toyota skid plates, those are steel.
 
Maybe it doesn’t really matter here, but if you’re talking about the silver Toyota skid plates, those are steel.
To be honest, the ones on my Taco are alum and I never checked the LC until a few minutes ago........ I stand corrected they are indeed steel.

Bonus for me as I plan on putting a recessed removable access panel for the oil filter. I'm just avg on welding alum....... LOL
 
Maybe it doesn’t really matter here, but if you’re talking about the silver Toyota skid plates, those are steel.


^^ this is the one I was talking about- error in the description?

The skid plate that came on ours, the front portion is steel and the rear portion (with the access panel for the drain plug) is plastic.
 

^^ this is the one I was talking about- error in the description?

The skid plate that came on ours, the front portion is steel and the rear portion (with the access panel for the drain plug) is plastic.
Mine looks exactly like that, but I just placed a magnet on it and it stuck.
 
My Chief Financial Officer would probably prefer me to stay with the OEM skid than go aluminum at additional cost, so I'll have to spirit some general revenue away from her prying eyes in small doses over time and pull the trigger on the upgraded skidplate later- since she doesn't do the oil changes, she won't see the value in that addition.
IMG_7406.png
 
Back
Top