Welcome to the asylum.
Trail Dirt, Hard Water & OEM Shine — My Wash Routine
- Thread starter ryanbumps
- Start date
Thanks ultane - properly introd myself a month or so ago. I tend to read more than post but thanks for the welcome again!!
Sometimes, it's difficult to remember if I am repeating myself... Especially as we get many new inmates..
- Oct 15, 2025
- 184
- Media
- 151
- 302
- Vehicles
- 2003 Toyota Tacoma SR5 TRD 4x4 and 2025 Toyota Land Cruiser 1958 4x4
Amateur detailer here. My family has a total of four vehicles, so I'm always detailing one vehicle in our fleet every weekend (when I'm not recreating in the mountains). Each vehicle gets a thorough wash about once a month, and each vehicle gets a full detail including a hand wax twice a year. I use a variety of products and tools, I'm an avid user of Adam's, Meguiar's and Mothers products. Those companies should sponsor me after this write up, ha!
My basic exterior wash routine:
• Step 1, wheels & undercarriage: Spray entire undercarriage and wheels with water to remove all dirt, debris & surface brake dust. Spray a liberal amount of Adam's Eco All Purpose Cleaner to the undercarriage, wheel wells, wheels and tires. With a soft brush, clean tires, wheels, wheel wells and other areas under the vehicle. Rinse.
• Step 2, wheels: Apply a liberal amount of Adam's Wheel Cleaner to the inside and faces of each wheel. I typically do two at a time. Allow the chemical to sit so it has time to lift the brake dust from the surfaces. The dust turns red as the cleaner does its thing, kind of fascinating to observe. Using woolly brushes, agitate the inside of the wheels within reach, and using a soft brush, agitate the outside faces of the wheels to remove brake dust, while also twirling around each lug nut to remove all brake dust from the surfaces. Rinse thoroughly.
• Step 3, body and windows: Spray the entire vehicle with water to remove all surface grime. Wash vehicle with Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash and a microfiber wash mitt from the top down a few panels at a time. While the washed areas are soapy, I also use a soft brush to get into the tiny cracks between body panels, window trim, mirrors, etc. I don't use the two bucket method, but I typically dump and refill the soap bucket 3-5 times depending on size and filth of the vehicle. I also frequently rinse my microfiber mitt before dunking into the soapy bucket to keep it clean.
• Step 4, drying: I only use an Air Force Blaster Car & Bike Dryer to dry my vehicles. No towels! This helps prevent scratching the finish that you can get drying with towels. This is similar to the leaf blower method of drying, but there is a filter so you're not blasting your vehicle with potential debris like you can get from a leaf blower. The hose is easy to handle & to direct air into specific hard to reach places. This removes all water from pesky areas like mirrors and other nooks & crannies where water likes to hide and later drip, ruining your wash.
• Step 5, tire dressing: Using Adam's VRT and an appropriate applicator to dress the tires. I like this stuff because of its no sling formula and SPF 35 protection from the sun. Lasts a long time, protects the side walls from sun damage, and keeps the tires looking new without attracting dirt and dust.
I would like to eventually start using the two bucket method and/or a foam cannon, and would also like to learn how to do a clay bar treatment. For now I'm good with what I do and generally happy with the results. There's other things I also detail from time to time like the black plastic trim with Mothers Back to Black, seat & carpet deep cleaning, interior windows, floor mats, etc. Happy to go into detail about my interior cleaning and exterior waxing routines if anyone is interested.
I'm not a professional detailer by any means, but I do enjoy the process even though it takes hours to complete. It's somewhat therapeutic keeping my cars clean on my own. I also watch a lot of detailing YouTube videos by a guy called 'WhiteDetails'. Nowhere near his level of perfection, but a lot of my methods of car detailing come directly from him.
Below is a couple pictures... most of the products/tools I use, and one of the many vehicles in my fleet freshly washed and hand waxed today (sorry, it's not the Land Cruiser this week). Enjoy!
My basic exterior wash routine:
• Step 1, wheels & undercarriage: Spray entire undercarriage and wheels with water to remove all dirt, debris & surface brake dust. Spray a liberal amount of Adam's Eco All Purpose Cleaner to the undercarriage, wheel wells, wheels and tires. With a soft brush, clean tires, wheels, wheel wells and other areas under the vehicle. Rinse.
• Step 2, wheels: Apply a liberal amount of Adam's Wheel Cleaner to the inside and faces of each wheel. I typically do two at a time. Allow the chemical to sit so it has time to lift the brake dust from the surfaces. The dust turns red as the cleaner does its thing, kind of fascinating to observe. Using woolly brushes, agitate the inside of the wheels within reach, and using a soft brush, agitate the outside faces of the wheels to remove brake dust, while also twirling around each lug nut to remove all brake dust from the surfaces. Rinse thoroughly.
• Step 3, body and windows: Spray the entire vehicle with water to remove all surface grime. Wash vehicle with Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash and a microfiber wash mitt from the top down a few panels at a time. While the washed areas are soapy, I also use a soft brush to get into the tiny cracks between body panels, window trim, mirrors, etc. I don't use the two bucket method, but I typically dump and refill the soap bucket 3-5 times depending on size and filth of the vehicle. I also frequently rinse my microfiber mitt before dunking into the soapy bucket to keep it clean.
• Step 4, drying: I only use an Air Force Blaster Car & Bike Dryer to dry my vehicles. No towels! This helps prevent scratching the finish that you can get drying with towels. This is similar to the leaf blower method of drying, but there is a filter so you're not blasting your vehicle with potential debris like you can get from a leaf blower. The hose is easy to handle & to direct air into specific hard to reach places. This removes all water from pesky areas like mirrors and other nooks & crannies where water likes to hide and later drip, ruining your wash.
• Step 5, tire dressing: Using Adam's VRT and an appropriate applicator to dress the tires. I like this stuff because of its no sling formula and SPF 35 protection from the sun. Lasts a long time, protects the side walls from sun damage, and keeps the tires looking new without attracting dirt and dust.
I would like to eventually start using the two bucket method and/or a foam cannon, and would also like to learn how to do a clay bar treatment. For now I'm good with what I do and generally happy with the results. There's other things I also detail from time to time like the black plastic trim with Mothers Back to Black, seat & carpet deep cleaning, interior windows, floor mats, etc. Happy to go into detail about my interior cleaning and exterior waxing routines if anyone is interested.
I'm not a professional detailer by any means, but I do enjoy the process even though it takes hours to complete. It's somewhat therapeutic keeping my cars clean on my own. I also watch a lot of detailing YouTube videos by a guy called 'WhiteDetails'. Nowhere near his level of perfection, but a lot of my methods of car detailing come directly from him.
Below is a couple pictures... most of the products/tools I use, and one of the many vehicles in my fleet freshly washed and hand waxed today (sorry, it's not the Land Cruiser this week). Enjoy!
Your process sounds a lot like mine. I've never used an air cannon to dry though.
Clay bar could not be easier. Spray a panel with Adam's Detail Spray and then rub it with the clay bar. Occasionally fold the clay bar into itself and knead it to push the contaminants into the clay. Flatten it out and rub more panels.
You'll be surprised how it removes all sorts of stuff like tar, sap and other gunk stuck to your paint and makes the paint look brighter. I wash first and then again after claying before applying a sealant. I do this twice a year. Cheers!
- Oct 15, 2025
- 184
- Media
- 151
- 302
- Vehicles
- 2003 Toyota Tacoma SR5 TRD 4x4 and 2025 Toyota Land Cruiser 1958 4x4
Highly recommend the air blaster for drying. It makes quick work getting water out of the mirrors, door jams, engine bay, behind plastic trim pieces, lug nuts... basically all the tiny spots that water gets into and drips out later. I'll also use it in a similar way like @ryanbumps does (in post #18) and blast out all the dust and crap from the interior that my vacuum misses. It's my favorite cleaning tool, along with the Adam's Wheel Cleaner. I'll use both forever.
Regarding the clay bar... after a waxing my vehicles, I can always feel some tiny bits of contaminants left over that washing and waxing don't get. It's not major, but I'm assuming a good clay bar treatment before wax will help with this, correct? Is the clay bar a one time use deal? I'm ready to give it a try on my older vehicles first, and eventually work my way up to the LC once I get the method down. Can you recommend a good clay bar to try out with the Adam's Detail Spray. A link would be appreciated.
I never even heard of a ‘clay bar’ until folks on here started talking about them. I started with a Griots synthetic clay bar, and a kind of Griots spray meant to lubricate the painted surface while using the ‘Clay’. It seams to work well. Bought it all at AutoZone.
Hey,
Yes, the clay bar is perfect for getting those stubborn contaminants that are left behind. You can use the same clay bar multiple times. Just make sure to knead it often to incorporate the gunk.
It's not abrasive at all, so it won't scratch the paint if you push too hard. You really can't screw it up. Just keeo the paint lubricated.
I will have to try an air blaster. Thanks!
Here's the clay bar I use.
A clay bar will mar the finish and introduce micro-scratches that lead to swirls. I only clay bar when I intend to follow it with a paint correction. I don't have any issue with contaminants left behind on my paint (my vehicles are ceramic coated and detailed frequently, so they are kept clean.) You might try removing contaminants with products like Tar-X and an Iron Remover.
I've never had any issues and have been using clay for 30+ years on everything from daily drivers to show cars. As long as you keep the paint lubricated, knead the clay often and don't drop it there won't be any issues. Especially with Adam's Fine Grade Clay.
- Oct 15, 2025
- 184
- Media
- 151
- 302
- Vehicles
- 2003 Toyota Tacoma SR5 TRD 4x4 and 2025 Toyota Land Cruiser 1958 4x4
I get what both @Blue Bear is saying, what @QuickSilver66 is saying, and I appreciate the knowledge.
I don't own show vehicles. All my vehicles are long term owned, outdoor parked, daily drivers, and they suffer most from Mother Nature plus "other" people. It would be nice to do paint corrections, ceramic coatings, frequent detailings, PPF, etc... but the fact still remains I'm a one man shop with four daily driven family vehicles on a limited budget and time constraints. I know my weekly cleanings are better than the local car wash can do, and I also know my cleanings are not pro-detailer perfect. The second I clean my vehicles, they get driven, they get dirty, they get scratched, they get dinged. Birds crap on them, rocks chip them, bugs splatter on them. Fairly confident I do a halfway decent job of keeping my fleet of four cleaner than the average person does one.
Everyone has their own standards, methods, and procedures for car care that I fully respect. I have no doubt my simple washing/waxing methods introduce far more micro scratches than I care to admit. I'm going to give the clay bar a go on my '03 Tacoma to get the hang of the process. I still like to learn new things, but I also have to be mindful of my time and budget. Knowing what my vehicles go through, micro scratches are the last thing I'm worried about. Nothing is going to overcome the "other" people that mindlessly door ding, knick, and scratch my vehicles in between cleanings.
Stepping off my soap box...
Thanks for the Adam's link and tips @QuickSilver66, looking forward to learning a new process to my amateur detailing techniques.
I don't own show vehicles. All my vehicles are long term owned, outdoor parked, daily drivers, and they suffer most from Mother Nature plus "other" people. It would be nice to do paint corrections, ceramic coatings, frequent detailings, PPF, etc... but the fact still remains I'm a one man shop with four daily driven family vehicles on a limited budget and time constraints. I know my weekly cleanings are better than the local car wash can do, and I also know my cleanings are not pro-detailer perfect. The second I clean my vehicles, they get driven, they get dirty, they get scratched, they get dinged. Birds crap on them, rocks chip them, bugs splatter on them. Fairly confident I do a halfway decent job of keeping my fleet of four cleaner than the average person does one.
Everyone has their own standards, methods, and procedures for car care that I fully respect. I have no doubt my simple washing/waxing methods introduce far more micro scratches than I care to admit. I'm going to give the clay bar a go on my '03 Tacoma to get the hang of the process. I still like to learn new things, but I also have to be mindful of my time and budget. Knowing what my vehicles go through, micro scratches are the last thing I'm worried about. Nothing is going to overcome the "other" people that mindlessly door ding, knick, and scratch my vehicles in between cleanings.
Stepping off my soap box...
Thanks for the Adam's link and tips @QuickSilver66, looking forward to learning a new process to my amateur detailing techniques.
