+1. This is what I went with. I saw no need for exorbitant on board air installs I've seen available.
Inflator/deflator and compressor suggesttions
- Thread starter ATbuckhunter
- Start date
+1. This is what I went with. I saw no need for exorbitant on board air installs I've seen available.
There are lots of deflator/gauge combos out there, but every one I have found has the gauge mounted upside down. I have one from Smittlybilt but I don't believe it to be the best option.
I use this, very cheap, takes up little space and always works
I have the same compressor... I recommend it! I can verify your inflation time - I got about 1 minute 10 seconds per tire for about 15 PSI, which is about how long it takes to deflate the tire the same amount!
A caution about using the 7-pin trailer connection: The inline fuse for your Viair 400P EF A is 40 Amps, properly sized since the compressor is rated at 30 Amps. 30A x 125% = 37.5A and next closest fuse size is 40A. The trailer tow fuse on our Land Cruiser is 30A, so in an overcurrent condition the Land Cruisers 30A fuse will blow first!
I measured the current draw, both inrush and steady fill draw. The inrush is about 64 Amps but not a problem because it is for well under a second. You can see from the attached data sheet that a 30A fuse can handle around 200% for up to 0.15 seconds, or as much as 100A for about 0.12 seconds. The real issue is the derating curves. If you are out in the desert the fuse will be higher than 122 degrees F (50 C), and it's recommended the load is under 24 Amps. I logged the the current draw for a fill and the load (inrush aside) is between 24 A and 30 A.
I expect that using the 7-pin trailer connection for the compressor will usually work just fine - just know that you are right on the cusp of the limits of the Land Cruiser 30A fuse operating limits. If the environment conditions get too warm, or the pump stalls for some reason, you may blow the Land Cruiser 30 A fuse. I'm not saying don't do it, but maybe keep an extra fuse on hand!
Two potential recommendations:
1. Hard wire an around 18" long SAE connector cable to the battery and route it up to the compartment where the jack is accessed... it is a lot easier to pop off the jack cover and connect to the SAE connector than having to remove the battery access cover. I'm planning to do this because I don't want to drill any holes. Check out this post.
2. If you still want to use the 7-pin dongle, I would swap the Viair 40A inline fuse for a 30A fuse - at least you won't be guaranteed to blow the LC fuse first - now it's a coin toss! Either way, keep an extra 30A fuse on hand.
Here's a graph of the current when inflating the tire from 20 PSI to 35 PSI. The little current bumps are where I released the trigger to periodically check the pressure. At around 35 PSI the compressor draws 25 Amps. The higher the pressure in the hose, the more current draw, up until a peak of about 30A right before the compressor reaches its automatic shut off point:
Attachments
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Good info to have on hand. I will add a hardwire SAE connector at some point and in the meantime carry a few fuses.
Where exactly is the 30 amp fuse for the LC's 7-pin port located? Can anyone post a photo of which fuse it is?
@EOD Guy thanks very much for compiling that detailed fuse/circuit list. You're amazing!!
I'm not familiar with some of the terms used in the last column, though. I'd like to identify the amperage limit for each of the interior cigarette lighter 12V ports in order to judge whether it is safe to use a 15A max Viair device at those locations. Could you assist with this?
I'm guessing that maybe they are "Power Sources" but have no idea what "IGP", "IGR", or "D/C Cut" mean. Or how to identify which port might be #1, #2, #3, #4, etc.
I'm not familiar with some of the terms used in the last column, though. I'd like to identify the amperage limit for each of the interior cigarette lighter 12V ports in order to judge whether it is safe to use a 15A max Viair device at those locations. Could you assist with this?
I'm guessing that maybe they are "Power Sources" but have no idea what "IGP", "IGR", or "D/C Cut" mean. Or how to identify which port might be #1, #2, #3, #4, etc.
- Thread starter
- #31
This may just be the one im getting. Might not be as good as some of the other ones listed, but for my intended use, it looks pretty good. Remember, it'll mostly be used less than 10 times a year (mostly for beach fishing, but might also be used while hunting).
That’s what I’m thinking. I’m not planning on filling others’ tires consistently. And this can fill all tires sequentially consistently and can do so multiple times before needing a recharge. And while not in use it’ll just charge back up quickly with the outlet in the cargo area.
This is also fairly affordable, really convenient in that I don’t have to wire or find space for mounting. And the portability to bring it elsewhere is great too.
As for deflators these are just super convenient and set it and forget it.
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- #33
Those are the markings/label from the vehicle it's self. If you look on the lid to the fuse boxes, that's what is written on them. A lot of them don't make any sense to me either, that's why I complied the list. Try and decipher which fuse protects the cool box........... the information is there but good luck finding it in a timely manner.............. my list allows you to determine; it's in the Pass side under-hood fuse box and it in the "ECU-IGP NO.2" slot. (I updated the PDF in the above post)
I've attached the PDF for the pwr outlets, it appears the cigar lighter is a 15A fuse, located in the Glove box fuse panel and labeled "P/OUTLET NO.1".
The attached PDF is a flow chart that I also consult regularly.
Just guessing again - maybe IGCT means "Ignition Cut" (turns off when ignition is off) and IGP means "Ignition Permanent" (stays hot even when ignition is off).
Maybe IGR means the circuit stays hot when the ignition is in accessory mode.
Sorry, these guesses are probably not very helpful.
Maybe IGR means the circuit stays hot when the ignition is in accessory mode.
Sorry, these guesses are probably not very helpful.
The left-most column of the diagram in @EOD Guy 's attachment labeled "Power Outlet (12V)" a couple of posts above looks like it could be a circuit for a couple of 12V power ports. It is labeled "15A P/Outlet No. 1". I think the "No. 1" may refer to the entire circuit, but there seems to be a junction point indicating that it serves two ports.
So, for now, I'm making a (probably unwise) executive decision (or more accurately, executive assumption) that the interior 12V accessory ports are rated for 15A maximum. I understand that a Viair inflator will reach its maximum current draw when inflating to higher pressures, and draws less current when inflating at lower pressures. My 15A max Viair is probably OK to use in these ports for moderate pressures, but not higher pressures. What the line is, who knows?
Yes, I know the LC Owner's Manual states that the draw on the accessory ports should be limited to 10A - and that is probably sound advice for a 15A circuit.
For regular use, I will continue using the 30A 7-pin trailer port for my Viair inflator. It probably wouldn't do harm to the wiring if I used it on the interior ports briefly and/or at lower pressures though.
If anyone disagrees, please advise!
So, for now, I'm making a (probably unwise) executive decision (or more accurately, executive assumption) that the interior 12V accessory ports are rated for 15A maximum. I understand that a Viair inflator will reach its maximum current draw when inflating to higher pressures, and draws less current when inflating at lower pressures. My 15A max Viair is probably OK to use in these ports for moderate pressures, but not higher pressures. What the line is, who knows?
Yes, I know the LC Owner's Manual states that the draw on the accessory ports should be limited to 10A - and that is probably sound advice for a 15A circuit.
For regular use, I will continue using the 30A 7-pin trailer port for my Viair inflator. It probably wouldn't do harm to the wiring if I used it on the interior ports briefly and/or at lower pressures though.
If anyone disagrees, please advise!
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I took https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYHYHEA on my offroad trip and it worked great with the onboard inverter. For regular driving, I use a 120v to 12v converter with a standard 10A inflator.
2 sets of Staun Tyre Deflators. One set at 25psi and the other at 12psi plus a Viair 88P.
In the past I've had an onboard ARB compressor, but I'm not going offroad as much as I use to.
I also made a hose system w/ a built in gauge that allowed inflation of all 4 tires at the same time. More useful when I had onboard air. Valves for each wheel are still handy when I want to even out R&L, F&B air pressure in the tires.
In the past I've had an onboard ARB compressor, but I'm not going offroad as much as I use to.
I also made a hose system w/ a built in gauge that allowed inflation of all 4 tires at the same time. More useful when I had onboard air. Valves for each wheel are still handy when I want to even out R&L, F&B air pressure in the tires.
I’ve been using the same Makita 18v LXT that I have had for the past 7 years. Goes in the road trip tool bag along with 6amp battery, breaker bar, socket set, etc.
But hearing the performance of the Milwaukee has added on to my “I wish I waited just 2 more years before buying a whole makita power tool set”. They were about even when I committed to Makita but man did Milwaukee tech vastly outperforms them just a couple years later. Oh well, at least it goes with the JDM theme I got going lol.
But hearing the performance of the Milwaukee has added on to my “I wish I waited just 2 more years before buying a whole makita power tool set”. They were about even when I committed to Makita but man did Milwaukee tech vastly outperforms them just a couple years later. Oh well, at least it goes with the JDM theme I got going lol.
