how to disable back up sensor
- Thread starter jboo
- Start date
And also ruin your gas mileage, if you care. It disables the hybrid features of the engine turning off and holds higher RPMS.
I can confirm that the tow/haul button DOES NOT turn off the sensors. Tried it and it doesn't work.
Love this idea - will try this AM. Although not ideal I’ve tried every other idea in this thread including the Tow/Haul button, trailer brake button combined w/ volume on display, Carista (didn’t have option for back up sensor)…. Wrote letter but doubt it’ll get to anyone helpful.
Same. Glad I came across this thread. I would have been having a f&king meltdown!
Has anyone actually gotten one of those trailer wiring plugs and been successful with avoiding the auto-brake and annoying sounds?
turn off 3 items: Intuitive Parking Assist in the DID, Rear Cross Traffic alert in the DID, and then Rear Parking Assist which is the button near the fuel door release button, left of steering wheel.
When all three of these are off, you’ll have no alerts. You’ll have no sudden breaking stops and you can carry your bike anywhere you want.
One thing to know once you’re in drive moving forward, you can turn rear parking assist back on to clear the message on the DID. (Button by fuel door release)
When all three of these are off, you’ll have no alerts. You’ll have no sudden breaking stops and you can carry your bike anywhere you want.
One thing to know once you’re in drive moving forward, you can turn rear parking assist back on to clear the message on the DID. (Button by fuel door release)
Maybe I’m Galatically Stupid but what is the DID?
I achieved this without turning off Rear Cross Traffic Alert. Just the parking assist in the DID and the physical button on the left.
If you only do the physical button, the cruiser will still yell at you. If you only do the setting you get auto-braked.
The driver information display, aka the settings in the dash. (Not the settings on the Infotainment display)
You’d think… but I just tried that this weekend and that didn’t work for me - I had to manually disable multiple sensors/options, and will try to figure out which one(s) exactly clear the beeping. The parking button on the left side of the steering wheel seems to be the main one that stops breaking.
Yeah but then you have to dismiss this warning every time you start the truck:
Still, better than the emergency braking due having the bike rack attached. This is in the top 5 gripes I have on the new generation.
Still, better than the emergency braking due having the bike rack attached. This is in the top 5 gripes I have on the new generation.
The 7 pin to 4 pin adapter from Amazon does NOT help this. I tried today, and tow haul button didn’t work - still had to turn off the parking sensor to avoid the auto-braking.
I've had my 1958 for about 4 days. Put my rack on and loaded up my bike. The LC would not let me back up.
I did a lot of poking and hoping with buttons and found that when the alert comes, press the OK button and then press the back arrow, this allowed me to back up with my rack. Not ideal because I like to have my rack on all the time.
I did a lot of poking and hoping with buttons and found that when the alert comes, press the OK button and then press the back arrow, this allowed me to back up with my rack. Not ideal because I like to have my rack on all the time.
Be thankful all non-Australians. Unfortunately here in Oz we live in a nanny state where we risk-assess every possibility. So it doesn't appear I can turn off the reversing sensor or beeper when backing up to a trailer with my new Prado 250 series. Not only does it beep, it flashes yellow and red bars that block the view of the towball and trailer hitch, making it impossible to judge whether the towball is under the hitch or not. And then to be just that bit more annoying, when you reverse with a trailer on it beeps continuously. If anyone has a fix for this I would love to hear. Really wishing I still had my previous Prado with rear diff lock, 150L tanks and none of this OTT safety rubbish!!! Very disappointed on many levels.
I am running into a similar problem with my fishing rod rack. Took me 15 minutes to get out of the driveway at work! Pushing the button on dash seemed to work intermittently. Finally got out of the driveway then when I got home the system must have activated again because it took a few tries to get backed in.
Should I just be able to push the button on dash to turn off the automatic braking? I can live with beeps just can't handle the whiplash.
Should I just be able to push the button on dash to turn off the automatic braking? I can live with beeps just can't handle the whiplash.
I have posted this in a couple of other threads............ You can make a trailer brake emulator for cheap and plug that into the 7 pin trailer connector and be done with it.
I came up with the following "Elec brake emulator" of sorts.....
I purchased some eletro-magnet coils and a replacement 7 pin connector from Amazon.
I made a stand off / coil mount out of alum round stock. I think a cup could be made out of JB weld or other similar material, but I was bored etc........ The coil comes with a threaded hole in the center pin, I have no idea what size but I'm guessing M2. I have a large selection of random sized screws and used one that fit.
I cut down the center pin in the connector to almost flush. I removed all the contacts except for the "Blue" and "White" ones.
It works perfectly. I have no idea how long the coil will last, hopefully forever but I have 4 spares etc......
I came up with the following "Elec brake emulator" of sorts.....
I purchased some eletro-magnet coils and a replacement 7 pin connector from Amazon.
I made a stand off / coil mount out of alum round stock. I think a cup could be made out of JB weld or other similar material, but I was bored etc........ The coil comes with a threaded hole in the center pin, I have no idea what size but I'm guessing M2. I have a large selection of random sized screws and used one that fit.
I cut down the center pin in the connector to almost flush. I removed all the contacts except for the "Blue" and "White" ones.
It works perfectly. I have no idea how long the coil will last, hopefully forever but I have 4 spares etc......
Pushing the exploding cone button to disable when I have my bike rack on has always worked flawlessly for me...
Great idea. Let me verify two things (my mind is in 76 year old condition).
You plug this into the 7 pin connector on the LC AND plug your 4 pin connector from your trailer into the 4 pin connector on the LC at the same time.
Also you ground down the center pin on the 7 pin connector so it's only electrically connected to the magnetic coil. Correct?
Such a great idea. Thanks again. (and thanks for the Amazon parts list). This idea lets me use any trailer ( I rent different trailers as I need them).
Which of the connections on the trailer plug did you connect the coil to?
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