I REALLY appreciate you taking the time to snap this photo. guessing your door is ~6" higher than mine as I can't fit the LC in my garage with the rack unless I can add a door track extender to raise a few inches. Can you tell me the absolute highest point on the fin with door open - looks perhaps 3-4 inches higher than the rack? If I can get the hieght I can ask a garage door expert how much I can raise the door at the most.
First Edition Roof Rack / RTT - Will it fit?
- Thread starter agjake01
- Start date
Your garage opening should handle the LC just fine. You have about the same amount of clearance at the opening as I do. The fin is not the issue as it is lower than the roof rack when you enter the garage.
I share your concern about your garage door's lowest point once the LC is past the entry since the top of the roof rack measures about 77.75 inches from the ground. If your garage guy could run the track higher, you would be in the clear.
Here is another picture from inside my garage...
The second picture is with the rear hatch fully open (position 5), so the fin moves 90 degrees to point straight up. In this position it is the highest point of the car at 5 inches taller than the roof rack or 83 inches from the ground. This would be the target height your garage door installer would need to have the open garage door higher than in order for you to open the back latch in the fully open position.
I never really thought about the risk of hitting the garage door. I back into my garage so the back door is way past the garage door. I'm glad you guys are discussing this in case I pull in forward I'll think about the door before I open it.
I'm going to get a garage expect to come out so if you could tell me the max hight of that FIN when the trunk is open I can ask the garage guy if it's possible to lift high enough so I can actually open the door when the LC is in the garage. definately good to sort this out BEFORE we take delivery of the LC and find out it won't fit or we can't open the hatch when in the garage. Kind of looks like I might need around 82" (just a guess) Thanks again
Not a garage door guy, I believe it will depend on the total vertical measurement of your door panels (you won't be able to increase your overall length) and your total vertical frame opening. If the door measurement is greater than the opening, you should be able to raise the tracks the difference between the two (the weather seal must also be taken into account. If the door is somewhat larger than the opening, the brackets can be adjusted so that when the door is fully opened it will be at the same height or higher, as the actual framed opening. Shouldn't be any harder than shortening the ceiling brackets and repositioning the vertical rail brackets. It might be possible to add a longer/taller weather seal to the bottom of the door. You will need to adjust the "door closed" limter.
83 inches
You can also adjust the height that the rear door opens can you not?
WIth my 4Runner, I had to add a makeshift strap to limit how far it opened so the hatch didnt hit my garage door.
WIth my 4Runner, I had to add a makeshift strap to limit how far it opened so the hatch didnt hit my garage door.
Having thought about this for a bit .......... If you have room between the open door and the ceiling, you should be able to raise the horizontal tracks/opener and take advantage of the unused space. You only need the additional clearance after your vehicle is in the garage and you open the cargo hatch. You will have to adjust the "closed door" limit circuit. So if you can gain 4 inches of vertical distance by raising the opener and tracks, the door would still close and seal by dropping the additional 4 inches but the opener would need to know to run the additional 4 inches etc.....
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A rooftop tent without a roof is like peanut butter without jelly.. 
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Buddy with the black 4R is going to mount his on a 3/4 Prinsu in the meantime - so hopefully I’ll get a good preview.
Hi Teebo, Thanks for the photo. I have a restricted garage space and was wondering what wheel tire package you were running when you took this photo. Also, do you know if the FE roof rack sits higher than the standard roof rails on the LC edition? Appreciate your post.
It’s stock 1st edition. 265/70 18” tires. I don’t know about the roof rail height. I only have the roof rack. I’d guess that they are really close in height.
Anybody know how to take the first edition rack off?
Adding/removing roof rails
The 1958 doesn't come with roof rails, but the other 2 trims do. Is there a difference between the roofs on the 3 models? Can the roof rails (or roof rack on the FE) be removed without irreversible modifications? I don't have a use for roof rails/racks, and it definitely looks cleaner without...
www.landcruiserforum.com
That thread might help
Have looked at various photos, There should be rubber bolt covers, pop those off and undo the fastening bolts and the rack should lift off. If my research is correct, the stiffeners and bolts can be reused with either plain rails or the rail delete rubber strips.
I removed mine on Monday by myself and it was fairly straightforward. You'll need a T30 and 13mm socket. I took out all of the screws first and then slid the side rails away from the front (toward the tailgate). Once they were loose I lifted it off in one U-shaped piece. With the sides removed I took out the remaining screws that hold the metal side rails in place. There are some hex key screws which hold the front fairing to the front most metal cross rail, but those are accessed from underneath once it's installed. Because all three rails are metal it's fairly rigid, so I opted to just remove it as one complete U-shaped piece. Lastly, use the 13mm to remove the bolts and everything will come up easily. There are two bolts at each mounting point, twelve in total.
If I was doing this again I would recommend having a second person to assist you, it was a little sketchy but I worked slowly and got it removed without any damage to the paint.
