I found my LC 1958 250whatever it is with a dead battery. Might be because the last user did not put the tranny in park. Doesn't matter. Dead battery, found like others, the rear cargo door was dead too. So I had to recharge the battery from the battery starter box. Impossible to get off without a screwdriver, problem 1. Charged the battery with a battery charger and came back with idiot lights abounding. Usual take me to the service dealer. WELL that is NOT GOING TO HAPPEN. So far the only failure of system is the car door electric windows do not work from the driver door anymore. Only at the door. I am telling you my feelings here. This is not an off road vehilcle for adventures all over continents. If this cars bettery dies out back you can' t JUMP IT. I should have known this but I did want to try the hybrid.. Ithought I was getting something beyond a tarmac car. All this from a dead battery. Stuff happens. Software is supposed to start up again. It's like this car has a blue screen of death that I can't see. I plugged in my Carista and found I had 6 malfuntions. I told Carista to reset 5 of them. The big kahuna the OPS 3xx didn't want to go away untilI turned off the engine and restarted. However window control is gone. Honestly I have had a few LC's, 1976, 2005, 2021 and then this 2024. I think I can not trust the car. Reading what nonsense has happened to other folks on this forumn I would not pretend this is an all terrain vehicle. It ain't. Very disappointed. Bill
Dead Battery issues
- Thread starter BILL
- Start date
hi Bill. I have had also a few LCs - 40, 75, 80 and 105 series. I had battery issues with a few of those. I think you went about it the wrong way.
I think the solution is to get power to the inverter and then start the car normally - the traction battery will then charge the 12V system. I don't go anywhere without a booster in my car. The battery went flat on me probably 10 times including being towed once - then toyota gave me for free an AGM battery. No issues since I got the new 12V battery. cheers.
I think the solution is to get power to the inverter and then start the car normally - the traction battery will then charge the 12V system. I don't go anywhere without a booster in my car. The battery went flat on me probably 10 times including being towed once - then toyota gave me for free an AGM battery. No issues since I got the new 12V battery. cheers.
- Thread starter
- #3
What kind of booster do you carry in the car. I charged with the fuse box red flag for positive and the negative as shown. How do you get power to. the inverter? And where is the traction battery? Fortionatley my 21 has a battery I can find. THE one battery in the back of the new LC I have a trickle charger on in winter when not around. I trickle all my fleet as well.
Welcome to the forum!
Not sure the vehicle can be blamed if it is being left in gear. I’m really not following there…
Are you aware it can be jumped from under the hood, just like most other vehicles?
Not sure the vehicle can be blamed if it is being left in gear. I’m really not following there…
Are you aware it can be jumped from under the hood, just like most other vehicles?
- Thread starter
- #5
I am not blaming the LC. I am blaming the fact that the transmission left in D would drain the battery. Second I did plug in to the under hood and when the car started it through up Messages to go to dealer and things stopped working.
Thus my believe is that this is not a car to drive across the Sahara with. Of the Gobe or anywhere remote. This car would not have killed off the Land Rovers the way the older LC's did with raising a sweat.
It's a very bad idea to run a diagnostic tool through a DTC clear cycle with the engine running. Good way to jack up ECUs, sensors and other sensitive electronic components doing that.
I suppose if you’re crossing the Sahara you’ll have to remember to put it in park when you turn it off
- Thread starter
- #8
Thank you for that info. I thought the car had to be on. I don't rem if
I had the engine running but I will assume it was. So thank you for the info again! Bill
All of the error/warning messages likely result from low voltage on the 12V side. I would fully charge the battery and see if they clear after a few drive cycles. Many modern vehicles will have issues when the starting battery is depleted below 12.6V, unlike the old school vehicles that warned you with a few slow cranks. With today’s vehicles, there is sufficient voltage for the ECU to start the vehicle one minute, and insufficient the next- no warning.
I have a couple of NoCo boost jump starters, with one in the Land Cruiser. I haven’t had to use it (yet). I will probably upgrade the battery to AGM deep cycle at some point, with the understanding that those like to be topped off with a charger periodically to maintain optimal state of charge and extend battery life.
I have a couple of NoCo boost jump starters, with one in the Land Cruiser. I haven’t had to use it (yet). I will probably upgrade the battery to AGM deep cycle at some point, with the understanding that those like to be topped off with a charger periodically to maintain optimal state of charge and extend battery life.
- Moderator
- #10
Lower center of the rear hatch is a trim panel, remove the trim panel (real PITA), inside the opening is a phillips head screw (jack tool kit actually has a phillips head screw driver in it), loosen the phillips head screw and swing the little plastic barrier/cover out of the way and insert the screwdriver and move the manual unlocker........ Hatch will unlock and allow you to open it.
Having done this a few times........ I removed the screw and plastic barrier/cover completely. The trim cover (PITA) gets a lot easier to remove, once you've removed it a few times. I have a pig tail hooked to the 12v battery and found it's much easier just to flip the rear seat, craw through to the cargo area, remove the Jack trim cover, and hook up the trickle charger. If I'm out and about and need a jump box, remove the battery covers/trays and hook up my jump box.
Having done this a few times........ I removed the screw and plastic barrier/cover completely. The trim cover (PITA) gets a lot easier to remove, once you've removed it a few times. I have a pig tail hooked to the 12v battery and found it's much easier just to flip the rear seat, craw through to the cargo area, remove the Jack trim cover, and hook up the trickle charger. If I'm out and about and need a jump box, remove the battery covers/trays and hook up my jump box.
- Thread starter
- #11
Well we drove FJ55's across the Sahara along with MK2 Land Rovers. The LRs took a lot of work,, the LC's were flawless. I am not a fan of computers in cars. But I am old so it doen;t matter what I think.I suppose if you’re crossing the Sahara you’ll have to remember to put it in park when you turn it off
- Thread starter
- #12
Thank you for that info. That is good to know. I will fix that this weekend.
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- #13
I have the boost charger here as well but it was off in another vehicle. I will get it back. When you find an AGM deep cycle you like send me an email wglevy@gmail.com
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- #14
What is an AGM battery?
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- #15
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From previous experience, I can tell you I like the Odyssey Xtreme and Perfomance series. Haven’t done the legwork to see what size will fit the LC.
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- #17
Do these special types last longer than our traditional lead plate technology? Tell me more about them. Very interested.
As mentioned, AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat.
It is different from a flooded lead acid battery. There are AGM starting batteries (an example is Optima’s Red Top) and AGM deep cycle batteries. Flooded lead acid batteries and AGM starting batteries that aren’t designed to be deep cycled usually sustain damage that shortens their service life if heavily discharged.
AGM deep cycle batteries are designed to withstand being discharged- some almost demand it before taking a full charge, and can be discharged/recharged hundreds of times. The majority of AGM deep cycles live longest when topped off on an AGM compatible charger, as the charging voltage on the average vehicle may not be enough to get them to a full state of charge by driving alone.
It is different from a flooded lead acid battery. There are AGM starting batteries (an example is Optima’s Red Top) and AGM deep cycle batteries. Flooded lead acid batteries and AGM starting batteries that aren’t designed to be deep cycled usually sustain damage that shortens their service life if heavily discharged.
AGM deep cycle batteries are designed to withstand being discharged- some almost demand it before taking a full charge, and can be discharged/recharged hundreds of times. The majority of AGM deep cycles live longest when topped off on an AGM compatible charger, as the charging voltage on the average vehicle may not be enough to get them to a full state of charge by driving alone.
- Moderator
- #19
I can't answer your question "if they last longer" as no two batteries are the same. I had lead/acid last for years and years and others that crap out after a year.
AGMs IMO, aren't as prone to harsh ride vibrations etc........ The Optima has a higher CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) and I haven't had a failure with an AGM
- Thread starter
- #20
Let me know the type number model etc for the LC as OPTIMA says they don't make one for our LC.
