Car Stolen, Don't want it to happen again..

[ultane]

I’ve also looked at that version from Australia.
I’m not sure whether it merely blocks only the start button from being pressed or interrupts the entire starter circuit. Only in the latter case would CAN bus injection be effectively bypassed, since the "JBL box" of the thiefes could theoretically send an electronic start command directly to the engine.
According to my research, severing the wiring between the control unit (which stores the key data) and the start button could—in a worst-case scenario—lead to serious and costly issues with the control unit.

Welcome to the asylum.

 

[OldMan]

I viewed the Videos again. The concept from 300mods (Australia) and the technical implementation of the kill switch demonstrate real professionalism; this man knows what he’s doing.

However, if you forget to deactivate the switch before starting the engine, you’ll trigger a temporary error code—much like with the 41.22 relay. While the specific error-codes likely will probably differ, I imagine Toyota can spot them in the logs. It is in my opinion therefore smarter to find a solution where the alarm system —which is necessary anyway— automatically handles the switching.

A CAN-Bus alarmsystem can also be implemented using a contactless reader, meaning no wires need to be cut. However, this setup prevents the alarmsystem from electronically protecting the CAN-Bus against injection attacks. You have to build a analog immobilizer.

 

[ezmortla]

I viewed the Videos again. The concept from 300mods (Australia) and the technical implementation of the kill switch demonstrate real professionalism; this man knows what he’s doing.

However, if you forget to deactivate the switch before starting the engine, you’ll trigger a temporary error code—much like with the 41.22 relay. While the specific error-codes likely will probably differ, I imagine Toyota can spot them in the logs. It is in my opinion therefore smarter to find a solution where the alarm system —which is necessary anyway— automatically handles the switching.

A CAN-Bus alarmsystem can also be implemented using a contactless reader, meaning no wires need to be cut. However, this setup prevents the alarmsystem from electronically protecting the CAN-Bus against injection attacks. You have to build an analog immobilizer.

The cutoff switch does not prevent canbus attacks which is the common way to steal the LC. I bought one , it’s useless .

 

[steveg]

The cutoff switch does not prevent canbus attacks which is the common way to steal the LC. I bought one , it’s useless .

The common way to steal LC250’s is first enter the vehicle without the alarm activating by unlocking via the canbus. Then program a new key via the powered obd2 port. Then start ignition and drive away.

The kill switch doesn’t, and is not positioned as preventing the first two, it just stops the final part, only if you don’t find the switch or associated wiring. Both finding the switch or removing the wiring are designed to be time consuming and not something the average car thief will do. So in the majority of cases it will serve its purpose of preventing the vehicle from being stolen.

To stop opening the vehicle without the alarm going off, you fit an alarm system that says it prevents canbus attacks that can open the vehicle. I’m not sure that one really exists to do this. So 300mods sells an additional alarm that activates on door tampering or vehicle opening.

To prevent programming a new key via the OBD2 port 300 mods sells a OBD2 device that stops power to the OBD2 port unless the ignition is on. To get around this a thief would either have to find the OBD2 device and remove plus rewire. Not hard to do, but probably 20-30 minutes. So sufficient to deter the majority.

Most modern immobilisers like Ghost etc., step in after steps 1 and 2. So even if you’ve silently gained entry to the vehicle, programmed a new key, you still can’t drive away without deactivating the immobiliser. So you’d either need to know the code or remove it. Removing is not impossible, just again requires time and pulling apart dash, removing and rewiring. It’s typically going to take a very knowledgeable thief 30 minutes plus to do this.

So, if you want to give maximum protection to your Land Cruiser, you layer in protection/s. You could opt for an extra alarm to sound on forced entry, OBD2 device to prevent programming a new key. Modern immobiliser like Ghost to prevent it being driven away, and kill switch to do the same.

The effort to overcome all of this is too much/too time consuming for majority of thieves. People always then say, what if they low load it away - that’s a valid question - but how many thieves do this really?

Fixing the canbus attacks only stops the thieves from gaining silent entry. It actually doesn’t take long to program a new key. I suspect if you solved for that, they would just smash a window or sunroof to gain entry and be away in 1-2 minutes.

 

[ezmortla]

The common way to steal LC250’s is first enter the vehicle without the alarm activating by unlocking via the canbus. Then program a new key via the powered obd2 port. Then start ignition and drive away.

The kill switch doesn’t, and is not positioned as preventing the first two, it just stops the final part, only if you don’t find the switch or associated wiring. Both finding the switch or removing the wiring are designed to be time consuming and not something the average car thief will do. So in the majority of cases it will serve its purpose of preventing the vehicle from being stolen.

To stop opening the vehicle without the alarm going off, you fit an alarm system that says it prevents canbus attacks that can open the vehicle. I’m not sure that one really exists to do this. So 300mods sells an additional alarm that activates on door tampering or vehicle opening.

To prevent programming a new key via the OBD2 port 300 mods sells a OBD2 device that stops power to the OBD2 port unless the ignition is on. To get around this a thief would either have to find the OBD2 device and remove plus rewire. Not hard to do, but probably 20-30 minutes. So sufficient to deter the majority.

Most modern immobilisers like Ghost etc., step in after steps 1 and 2. So even if you’ve silently gained entry to the vehicle, programmed a new key, you still can’t drive away without deactivating the immobiliser. So you’d either need to know the code or remove it. Removing is not impossible, just again requires time and pulling apart dash, removing and rewiring. It’s typically going to take a very knowledgeable thief 30 minutes plus to do this.

So, if you want to give maximum protection to your Land Cruiser, you layer in protection/s. You could opt for an extra alarm to sound on forced entry, OBD2 device to prevent programming a new key. Modern immobiliser like Ghost to prevent it being driven away, and kill switch to do the same.

The effort to overcome all of this is too much/too time consuming for majority of thieves. People always then say, what if they low load it away - that’s a valid question - but how many thieves do this really?

Fixing the canbus attacks only stops the thieves from gaining silent entry. It actually doesn’t take long to program a new key. I suspect if you solved for that, they would just smash a window or sunroof to gain entry and be away in 1-2 minutes.

If you ask anyone that has their Cruiser stolen in Canada or USA the majority of the entry is through a broken window.
Thieves inject start protocol car via the tow hail panel area, thus bypassing fobs and start button. It’s very similar to how they steal rav4s by injecting through headlight. So the cutoff switch to push button is a waste of time . There’s plenty of people who have recovered their car with original fobs that doesn’t explain “ new programed fobs”.

 

[D-Train]

If you ask anyone that has their Cruiser stolen in Canada or USA the majority of the entry is through a broken window.
Thieves inject start protocol car via the tow hail panel area, thus bypassing fobs and start button. It’s very similar to how they steal rav4s by injecting through headlight. So the cutoff switch to push button is a waste of time . There’s plenty of people who have recovered their car with original fobs that doesn’t explain “ new programed fobs”.

I think you might be misunderstanding the 'kill switch' most folks are referring to on here. It kills the starter relay leading to a no start condition and no CANBUS hack can get around that. It kills the power to the starter.

Whether they take the time to figure out why after cloning the key, or sending a start command via the CANBUS the LC will not start is up for debate. Nothing is perfect, and as many have said.. they could just flatbed it anyway. This is true if you have an immobilizer installed as well.

 

[ultane]

If you ask anyone that has their Cruiser stolen in Canada or USA the majority of the entry is through a broken window.
Thieves inject start protocol car via the tow hail panel area, thus bypassing fobs and start button. It’s very similar to how they steal rav4s by injecting through headlight. So the cutoff switch to push button is a waste of time . There’s plenty of people who have recovered their car with original fobs that doesn’t explain “ new programed fobs”.

Welcome to the asylum.

 

[steveg]

If you ask anyone that has their Cruiser stolen in Canada or USA the majority of the entry is through a broken window.
Thieves inject start protocol car via the tow hail panel area, thus bypassing fobs and start button. It’s very similar to how they steal rav4s by injecting through headlight. So the cutoff switch to push button is a waste of time . There’s plenty of people who have recovered their car with original fobs that doesn’t explain “ new programed fobs”.

You clearly need to actually read what the double kill switch does.

 

[Don]

I need to hide a couple of the new Air Tag thingies in Miss Daisy.

There's inexpensive cases that essentially permanently power AirTag with two lithium batteries. I dislike remembering where I hid AirTags. I tossed one of there cases deep in the battery compartment with the AirTag speaker removed. I doubt it could be found. I read that its more difficult to disable the speaker in the new gen AirTag.

But my first level of defense is one that will encourage the thief to walk away before breaking stuff. My feeling is that in all areas of theft that too much emphasis is placed on the ultimate technology and not enough on encouraging the criminal to move on.
Disklok Gold Edition

I use Diskloc at hotels and trail heads and a few other higher risk situations. I would not be willing to use this every day. I would buy a different vehicle if there was significant risk every day. Maybe a PT Cruiser or Cybertruck..

 

[ezmortla]

You clearly need to actually read what the double kill switch does.

Clearly you need to relax and don’t lose sleep over comments.

 

[dato6966]

I've got the remote control version of the 41.22 kill switch BUT I'm already having issues with the 12V battery being dead & it's been replaced once and probably due for another as it has been dead a few times this past few weeks. I've disconnected the 41.22 temporarily because it has a continual draw to see if it is contributing to the problem. I always use a heavy duty steering wheel lock as a visible deterrent and my insurance company has forced upon me a couple of battery powered anti-theft location transmitters hidden on the vehicle to aid in recovery. I'm not sure I'd want the vehicle recovered as it will then show as a theft recovery and the value of the vehicle will take a many $1000's beating on resale value - my neighbour took a 25% hit on his vehicle because it had been stolen even though it was recovered undamaged except for a broken window. If I leave the LC in the garage to prevent theft my home insurance increases because it is a hybrid - so it sits in the driveway. My thoughts have now changed to only make it difficult to steal & all the additional expense isn't worth it - just make sure you have good insurance coverage.

 

[bobsbigblue]

I've got the remote control version of the 41.22 kill switch BUT I'm already having issues with the 12V battery being dead & it's been replaced once and probably due for another as it has been dead a few times this past few weeks. I've disconnected the 41.22 temporarily because it has a continual draw to see if it is contributing to the problem. I always use a heavy duty steering wheel lock as a visible deterrent and my insurance company has forced upon me a couple of battery powered anti-theft location transmitters hidden on the vehicle to aid in recovery. I'm not sure I'd want the vehicle recovered as it will then show as a theft recovery and the value of the vehicle will take a many $1000's beating on resale value - my neighbour took a 25% hit on his vehicle because it had been stolen even though it was recovered undamaged except for a broken window. If I leave the LC in the garage to prevent theft my home insurance increases because it is a hybrid - so it sits in the driveway. My thoughts have now changed to only make it difficult to steal & all the additional expense isn't worth it - just make sure you have good insurance coverage.

I have a 25 LC that i purchased new last December. Since I have 2 cars, it does not get driven everyday in the better weather months. I have about 7,500 miles on it and it can sit sometimes about 3 days in the garage. I have never had any battery issues. I am curious as to why you are having so many battery failures along with some others here. Makes no sense. Sometimes I will even sit in the car listening to radio after I get home or wherever and sometimes even have the headlights on until I flip the light switch to off and it does not cause any battery issues. Do you have something else as an added accessory causing an issue possibly? In regards to the kill switch, its amp draw is very small.

 

[dato6966]

I have a 25 LC that i purchased new last December. Since I have 2 cars, it does not get driven everyday in the better weather months. I have about 7,500 miles on it and it can sit sometimes about 3 days in the garage. I have never had any battery issues. I am curious as to why you are having so many battery failures along with some others here. Makes no sense. Sometimes I will even sit in the car listening to radio after I get home or wherever and sometimes even have the headlights on until I flip the light switch to off and it does not cause any battery issues. Do you have something else as an added accessory causing an issue possibly? In regards to the kill switch, its amp draw is very small.

It is stock other than the kill switch - see the draft complaint at bottom of page 4 of all the issues and safety concerns.
12V Battery Marathon

 

[bobsbigblue]

This is what the seller of the switch sent me awhile back about power draw:

Hello Bob,
The Wireless version is an far easier install (does not require you to run the Switch wire through the firewall) and keeps your OEM Remote Start working (able to enable/disable Kill Switch remotely). However, it does consume a little bit of power—when the Kill Switch is activated (in kill mode), it consumes 0.03amps and 0.30amps when deactivated (enabled start—but the vehicle should be running in this mode anyhow).
The Wired is less expensive and since it's analog—it does not consume any power in either enabled or disabled state; and if you're okay with running the wire through the firewall and you do not normally use your OEM remote start, this is the one to go with.
Hope that helps!

Given a number here have installed the remote operated switch, what has been your experience regarding power draw and its effect on the battery? I don't think I have ever read a definitive answer.