It's probably the DCM. There was another post on this very subject, where the member had to repair the cable/wires that were ripped out during the theft. I do not remember which thread it was in.
Car Stolen, Don't want it to happen again..
- Thread starter Mr FIsh
- Start date
Good alternative solution.
On top of this type of lock, I always have another affordable/effective security layer “41.22 drop-in kill switch” in my FE and G
As I know, many of us here bought and successfully installed the “drop-in kill switch (wired and wireless versions). I have great experience with it. What’s about other gangs here. Please share.
For your 10% discount of entire purchase, you can use code “Thanh” if you like.
Looking forward to hear feedbacks from who had 41.22 kill switch on vehicles, especially, our lovely LCs
For anyone interested in a kill switch that interrupts a relay (mentioned in other threads) A cheap DIY manual version can be fairly easily fab'd by taking an ordinary relay, cutting off the neg tang and soldering a length of wire to the internal side of the tang you just cut off. From that wire to one side of a switch, the other side of the switch is connected to a ground. Switch "off" no ground to the relay and the relay will not function......... switch "on" and the relay works like normal. Works exactly like those mentioned in other posts.
I am currently working on modifying a 4 pin relay pigtail into a plug-n-play base for the OEM relay. The base will have the wire soldered in. My concept....... remove the OEM relay, plug the modified base/socket/receptacle into the fuse/relay box, then plug the OEM relay back into the modified base. If needed, I can unplug the relay from the modified base, unplug the base from the fuse box and then plug the OEM relay back into the factory OEM location for factory operation. My only hiccup so far is locating the smaller fuse taps for the smaller relay "tangs" I only had the "blue" ones and need the "red" (22-16 AWG) ones, which were harder to find.
Having thought about this a bit more, it would be very easy to use a flip-flop (latching bistatic) relay and a remote relay board from amazon to DIY a remote controlled kill switch. It would take a little bit to make the flip flop relay to work correctly but very doable. The below remote board is $17. I wouldn't recommend, based on experience using these type bords, to wire them without the flip/flop relay. These boards are on or off, it they're on they are drawing power and they aren't very robust, they work well by can't handle spikes at all. If you powered them with an "ACCY" circuit, you have to engage it every time you shut off the vehicle (not desirable IMO). If you use a flip/flop relay the FF relay rests in the last position of the contacts.
I am currently working on modifying a 4 pin relay pigtail into a plug-n-play base for the OEM relay. The base will have the wire soldered in. My concept....... remove the OEM relay, plug the modified base/socket/receptacle into the fuse/relay box, then plug the OEM relay back into the modified base. If needed, I can unplug the relay from the modified base, unplug the base from the fuse box and then plug the OEM relay back into the factory OEM location for factory operation. My only hiccup so far is locating the smaller fuse taps for the smaller relay "tangs" I only had the "blue" ones and need the "red" (22-16 AWG) ones, which were harder to find.
Having thought about this a bit more, it would be very easy to use a flip-flop (latching bistatic) relay and a remote relay board from amazon to DIY a remote controlled kill switch. It would take a little bit to make the flip flop relay to work correctly but very doable. The below remote board is $17. I wouldn't recommend, based on experience using these type bords, to wire them without the flip/flop relay. These boards are on or off, it they're on they are drawing power and they aren't very robust, they work well by can't handle spikes at all. If you powered them with an "ACCY" circuit, you have to engage it every time you shut off the vehicle (not desirable IMO). If you use a flip/flop relay the FF relay rests in the last position of the contacts.
Be careful! Toyota electronics are very touchy and might throw persistent codes!
Don’t mess around with cutting wires !
Get the solution that everyone can do and can restore back to manufacture instantly if you want. LC250 is extremely sensitive!
It’s not worth to save $100 for that trade off
If anybody wants a slightly more sophisticated kill switch there’s also an option here from Australia. I ordered this and the OBD kit.
www.300mods.com.au
For LC250 Prado
Australian-designed, vehicle-specific kits for LC300, Prado 250, GX550, LX600, Hilux and Patrol Y62. Shop towing, CANBUS, Tailgate, Lane Departure and Dual-Battery Power Solutions.
www.300mods.com.au
My 41.22 switch arrives tomorrow!
Install an Igla!
So far works like a charm... yes requires wiring into factory harness - accepted the risk vs. the vehicle being stolen.
So far no issues with codes etc... other than the odd time where i forgot that i have to put my code in and locks me up in hi-jack mode
due to Owner Error.....
At least i know they won't be able to get away with my LC in 1-10 minutes + if they try the anti-hijack mode kicks in... move the shift to D and you're locked - vehicle is not moving or going anywhere
the Igla also secures the canbus so can't access the canbus and reprogram keys or use the OBD unless you put in your code or service/maintenance code.
This is just one layer of security .. + multi- tracker(S).. with geofencing just in case a smart one figures out a way to get around the IGLA and takt the KC out of my driveway..
So far works like a charm... yes requires wiring into factory harness - accepted the risk vs. the vehicle being stolen.
So far no issues with codes etc... other than the odd time where i forgot that i have to put my code in and locks me up in hi-jack mode
due to Owner Error.....At least i know they won't be able to get away with my LC in 1-10 minutes + if they try the anti-hijack mode kicks in... move the shift to D and you're locked - vehicle is not moving or going anywhere
the Igla also secures the canbus so can't access the canbus and reprogram keys or use the OBD unless you put in your code or service/maintenance code.
This is just one layer of security .. + multi- tracker(S).. with geofencing just in case a smart one figures out a way to get around the IGLA and takt the KC out of my driveway
..
You got wired or wireless versions? Please let us know how it works. Thanks.
I went w/ wireless. I'm going to be installing light bar/ditch lights & a few minor stereo upgrades soon, so i'll have my hands full for a bit
Great. Thanks for letting us know the result.
Interesting. But, keep in mind that anything that communicates with your pocket computer (i.e.: phone) can also be defeated by someone clever enough using their pocket computer. It comes down to who's smarter.
Whereas, a mechanical shutoff switch can only be operated manually. True, to be effective you DO have to set it to off any time you leave your car.
Wise advice......... What I call 3rd party fobs/boards (which are actually a remote controlled relay) normally operate on one of a few frequencies. I would guess that the cheap boards are not encoded (as I determined by the price point) which means any transmitter with that frequency will trip the relay. And if you have a broad frequency sequential generator or a vast collection of different freq fobs, which some of us do. It's not much of a deterrent for thieves. That being said with the exception of larger cities, the average Joe will be ok with the non-encoded transmitters.
The EOD community have been using these cheap transmitter/boards for many, many years as training devices and counter training devices. That is why, I opt for magnetic sensors and or physical switches.
Those seem like a great solution as well. I'm not sure which is better - the Aussie system is more expensive, but takes a different approach to preventing theft. I wonder which one would be more effective?If anybody wants a slightly more sophisticated kill switch there’s also an option here from Australia. I ordered this and the OBD kit.
For LC250 Prado
Australian-designed, vehicle-specific kits for LC300, Prado 250, GX550, LX600, Hilux and Patrol Y62. Shop towing, CANBUS, Tailgate, Lane Departure and Dual-Battery Power Solutions.
So thankful to have your insights on this forum!
I'm not sure what the 'handshake' will look like for the phone app? Hoping a bit more secure than just running all the RFID freqs. Also, if your phone dies, no start. But.. you do have a wireless charger built in and charge ports, so you wouldn't get stranded.
I'm looking for seamless and 'me' proof. If I'm in a hurry, and I forget to hit the kill switch, and it gets stolen... well
Looks like many LC gang members here added 41.22 to enhance the security from thefts. All my family vehicles had it.
Save 10% discount for your future entire purchase with code “Thanh”
Happy LC to all !
I’ve also looked at that version from Australia.
I’m not sure whether it merely blocks only the start button from being pressed or interrupts the entire starter circuit. Only in the latter case would CAN bus injection be effectively bypassed, since the "JBL box" of the thiefes could theoretically send an electronic start command directly to the engine.
According to my research, severing the wiring between the control unit (which stores the key data) and the start button could—in a worst-case scenario—lead to serious and costly issues with the control unit.
