Anyone using a FitcamX....

Masbirdies

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DId you connect the fuse box wiring kit and if so, are you able to record video for sometime after parking? From what I can read, it seems the unit only records in parking mode if the vehicle receives a strong impact. That seems useless as I want the video recorded before the impact.

What I want to do is have the camera record for say 4 hours after parking. Is anyone doing that?
 
I have a FITCAMX setup but it’s not wired to run when the car is parked. I believe what you’re looking for is a Dongar Pro adapter.
 
I have a FITCAMX setup but it’s not wired to run when the car is parked. I believe what you’re looking for is a Dongar Pro adapter.
Fitcam makes one that connects to the fusebox. It is supposed to provide power when the vehicle is off, but fitcam says it provides power when the vehicle is off and there is a collision detected. Seems kind of lame to me.
 
Fitcam makes one that connects to the fusebox. It is supposed to provide power when the vehicle is off, but fitcam says it provides power when the vehicle is off and there is a collision detected. Seems kind of lame to me.
Yes, from what I’ve read, that’s just how their system works. When you described what you want, you’re describing a Dongar Pro adapter.

 
Yes, from what I’ve read, that’s just how their system works. When you described what you want, you’re describing a Dongar Pro adapter.

I looked at that and dont see a way to connect it to the FitCamX
 
I looked at that and dont see a way to connect it to the FitCamX
You would have to purchase an adaptor like this to connect the Fitcamx to the Dongar pro.

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I don't see anything like that on their page or in this install video.

The fitcamx has 2 (3 connectors if you get the rear cam) connectors. The white one is a 16 pin connector and the or 2 are black, barrel connectors. The white replaces the factory 16 pin connector and goes into the car's wiring receptor. It is a 16 pin male on one end of a cable and 16 pic female on the other. The male end goes into the car's receptor and the female end receives the car's original plug.

If you watch the video, just after the white 16 pin plugs are dealt with, you will see the camera itself plugs into a black, barrel connector. That connector is 8 pin. The adapters you referenced won't connect as they are not 8 pin. You would have to do some cutting and splicing...and some advanced electrical knowledge to make the barrel to USB C adapter work (so that you could connect to the Donger unit). The adapter you mentioned that is available on Amazon won't work unless I am grossly missing something.
 
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This is what FitcamX has but it only records if the G-sensor is tripped. Could be useful in the case of parked hit and run if it captures license plate when they run?


Fuse box cable hardwire kit for Toyota & Lexus
So, I've been back and forth with FitCam customer support over this. They are very responsive, so that is a positive. You are correct, with the Toyota/Lexus cable, the car has to be bumped hard enough to trip the G Sensor, however, they told me to get 24/7 recording capabilities, you get the OBD2 adapter instead of the the Toyota/Lexus cable. That will enable a 24/7 recording functionality. You manually turn it off and on in the app.

Why would I want that? I don't really want the camera recording 24/7, but...I don't want a parking mode where someone backing into my car might, or might not trip the sensor. If I go shopping, or some place that is public parking, I would turn that feature on manually so that everything is recorded...someone messing with my vehicle, someone hitting it, etc...

Also, with the OBD2 cable, the normal parking mode they offer (trip the G Sensor) is available as well. It's called ACC mode vs. 24/7 mode.
 
The fitcamx has 2 (3 connectors if you get the rear cam) connectors. The white one is a 16 pin connector, which to use, you unplug the connector that is ready there, plug the 16 pin connector in that slot, then plug the car's 16 pin into the end of the FixCamx connector.

If you watch the video after that, you will see the camera itself plugs into a black, barrel connector. That connector is 8 pin. You would have to do some cutting and splicing...and some advanced electrical knowledge to make the barrel to USB C adapter work. The adapter you mentioned that is available on Amazon won't work unless I am grossly missing something.
I assumed that was a normal barrel plug.
 
It's a simple process to run a fuse tap from the under hood fuse box into the cabin, no tools required, no holes to drill as there is already a rubber grommet installed in the firewall. It could be easily routed to a "cube" switch then to the cam.

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So far I'm enjoying my FitcamX... apart from the stupid second plastic shroud. Fuck trying to get those little hooks into the right hole for it to close properly. Even the videos you watch of people installing it show them struggling with it.

Mine is mostly secure, but it's not seated completely. Had to tell myself to take a break and deal with it later.

Sorry, rant is over.
 
So far I'm enjoying my FitcamX... apart from the stupid second plastic shroud. Fuck trying to get those little hooks into the right hole for it to close properly. Even the videos you watch of people installing it show them struggling with it.

Mine is mostly secure, but it's not seated completely. Had to tell myself to take a break and deal with it later.

Sorry, rant is over.
Ditto on the tight fit. I had to let it go for awhile.
 
So far I'm enjoying my FitcamX... apart from the stupid second plastic shroud. Fuck trying to get those little hooks into the right hole for it to close properly. Even the videos you watch of people installing it show them struggling with it.

Mine is mostly secure, but it's not seated completely. Had to tell myself to take a break and deal with it later.

Sorry, rant is over.
Was definitely the hardest part of install. I finally got it on what seemed to be my 267th try.
 
It just occurred to me that hard wiring like I outlined above, would only allow the cam to work when the switch is "on"...... no point in having a switch. A better solution would be to install a relay where the relay's normally closed state (not energized) would route power via a "ACCY" power source and when the relay is energized state, it would receive pwr from an "always hot" power source.

This way would allow the camera to operate whenever the vehicle is driving/normal operation and when you press the switch it would continue to record until you pressed the switch to turn in off. If you really wanted to get fancy, you could install a "delayed off" module.

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