26 mpg with 35” tires!!

[bywaysnothighways]

I’ve been relying on the built in computer and my scan guage 3 to get an idea of mpg. I typically see between 22-24 on my scan guage which takes the tire difference into account vs 20-22 on the dash mpg guage. I am only ever seeing the number for that specific trip. Well I reset my meter and did a full tank and was blown away that it was actually much better than I expected. I went 360 miles on the dash which equals 392 when accounting for the tire change and used 15.063 gallons. That comes to 26 mpg! I was expecting closer to 20 because in my experience the dash gauges always seem higher than actual tank calculations.
I’m gonna do a few more tanks to make sure it wasn’t a fluke but at the moment I’m pretty happy. I’ve been wondering if the people complaining about super bad mpg aren’t calculating it correctly/have bad driving habits/ super heavy tires or all 3. I try to drive with the engine off as much as possible. I really wish I had more control over it because i know it is running more than it needs to. But overall I am pretty happy with that.

 

[kskramer]

What tire size is the LC actually reading for? I feel like the 285/70r17 that I’m running needs an adjustment for tire size as well

 

[jenos96]

I suspect it’s a combination of drag and lead foot. You have nothing on your right, not even crossbars, that’s definitely helping. Still, 26 seems high. Outlying enough that I would recommend you double check your work! What is the elevation gain/descent of the miles you drove?

 

[bywaysnothighways]

What tire size is the LC actually reading for? I feel like the 285/70r17 that I’m running needs an adjustment for tire size as well

the dash is reading as if I had the stock tires which are 31.5 for the 1958. With the tire change for me it is undercalculating by 9%

 

[bywaysnothighways]

I suspect it’s a combination of drag and lead foot. You have nothing on your right, not even crossbars, that’s definitely helping. Still, 26 seems high. Outlying enough that I would recommend you double check your work! What is the elevation gain/descent of the miles you drove?

Right nothing on the roof. I'll definitely be checking it again on the next tank to make sure there aren't any issues, like the pump clicking off too early etc. All my driving starts and ends at the same elevation (1400ft) so that isn't relevant

 

[Blue Bear]

I’ve been relying on the built in computer and my scan guage 3 to get an idea of mpg. I typically see between 22-24 on my scan guage which takes the tire difference into account vs 20-22 on the dash mpg guage. I am only ever seeing the number for that specific trip. Well I reset my meter and did a full tank and was blown away that it was actually much better than I expected. I went 360 miles on the dash which equals 392 when accounting for the tire change and used 15.063 gallons. That comes to 26 mpg! I was expecting closer to 20 because in my experience the dash gauges always seem higher than actual tank calculations.
I’m gonna do a few more tanks to make sure it wasn’t a fluke but at the moment I’m pretty happy. I’ve been wondering if the people complaining about super bad mpg aren’t calculating it correctly/have bad driving habits/ super heavy tires or all 3. I try to drive with the engine off as much as possible. I really wish I had more control over it because i know it is running more than it needs to. But overall I am pretty happy with that.

The Method 705s look great on your LC. What size are the KO3s you are running? Did you lift the truck? Can we see a shot from the front showing the poke?

 

[bywaysnothighways]

The Method 705s look great on your LC. What size are the KO3s you are running? Did you lift the truck? Can we see a shot from the front showing the poke?

They are 315/70r17 Goodyear territory MT No lift.

 

[Blue Bear]

They are 315/70r17 Goodyear territory MT No lift.
View attachment 16492View attachment 16493View attachment 16494

Great combo . I'm amazed that these fit without rubbing on a no lift truck. Do you have any issues with throwing up rocks/dirt/debris past your mudflaps and onto the side of the LC?

 

[bywaysnothighways]

Great combo . I'm amazed that these fit without rubbing on a no lift truck. Do you have any issues with throwing up rocks/dirt/debris past your mudflaps and onto the side of the LC?

Yes I do. I want either the flares that come standard on the other trims or some aftermarket wider flares and some larger mud flaps. Need about one more inch of coverage.

 

[LCOceans]

Those look great. Tire size comes up at 34.36" x 12.4" give or take depending on brand variance. So maybe this is how there is no rubbing, being under the 35 mark. Very nice looking though.

 

[Overtrail Mike]

I’ve been relying on the built in computer and my scan guage 3 to get an idea of mpg. I typically see between 22-24 on my scan guage which takes the tire difference into account vs 20-22 on the dash mpg guage. I am only ever seeing the number for that specific trip. Well I reset my meter and did a full tank and was blown away that it was actually much better than I expected. I went 360 miles on the dash which equals 392 when accounting for the tire change and used 15.063 gallons. That comes to 26 mpg! I was expecting closer to 20 because in my experience the dash gauges always seem higher than actual tank calculations.
I’m gonna do a few more tanks to make sure it wasn’t a fluke but at the moment I’m pretty happy. I’ve been wondering if the people complaining about super bad mpg aren’t calculating it correctly/have bad driving habits/ super heavy tires or all 3. I try to drive with the engine off as much as possible. I really wish I had more control over it because i know it is running more than it needs to. But overall I am pretty happy with that.

The gas mileage you’re getting is hard to evaluate when you don’t provide all the information associated with it. Data such as temperate, wind, speed and direction, city stop and go driving, highway driving, average speed, tire pressure, tire type and weight all affect mpg. Adding a roof rack changes mpg by about 2 mphg

Provide a little background info when you provide info please.

 

[DoMoCruiser24]

I think the main issue with the focus on MPG for this vehicle is the association of Hybrid with efficiency ala Prius.

That is further compounded by the stated MPG which can be achieved but I assume many may be unfamiliar with turbos and how it directly impacts fuel consumption.

To over simplify, turbo actuation will deliver more power but increase cylinder temps and pressure (which can result in knocking), therefore computer is tuned to have the engine run rich for cylinder cooling to reduce knock.

I don’t know the exact pressure of the T24AFTS turbo but since it is a 2.4L 4 cylinder turbo engine it should be comparable to others on the market so between 13-15 or so. At max effort without turbo use, you will get approximately stated MPG or 1x fuel consumption, with 7 psi turbo, that’s half of 14 so now you’re at 1.5x fuel consumption. At 15 psi, 2x fuel consumption. Again this is an oversimplification.

TLDR Boost gauge is very useful tool in my opinion. If gas mileage is very meaningful to you, monitor the boost gauge and drive without turbo activation and that should get you to stated MPG.

 

[jenos96]

I think the main issue with the focus on MPG for this vehicle is the association of Hybrid with efficiency ala Prius.

That is further compounded by the stated MPG which can be achieved but I assume many may be unfamiliar with turbos and how it directly impacts fuel consumption.

To over simplify, turbo actuation will deliver more power but increase cylinder temps and pressure (which can result in knocking), therefore computer is tuned to have the engine run rich for cylinder cooling to reduce knock.

I don’t know the exact pressure of the T24AFTS turbo but since it is a 2.4L 4 cylinder turbo engine it should be comparable to others on the market so between 13-15 or so. At max effort without turbo use, you will get approximately stated MPG or 1x fuel consumption, with 7 psi turbo, that’s half of 14 so now you’re at 1.5x fuel consumption. At 15 psi, 2x fuel consumption. Again this is an oversimplification.

TLDR Boost gauge is very useful tool in my opinion. If gas mileage is very meaningful to you, monitor the boost gauge and drive without turbo activation and that should get you to stated MPG.

Be nice if eco mode actually inhibited boost unless significant pressure on the gas pedal or something. I dunno maybe it’s a safety thing

 

[JSFoster75]

In my experience with multiple Toyota vehicles, the onboard computer guesstimated MPG is never accurate... I rely on the old fashion method using the Fuelly App, cost is $7.99/year and totally worth every penny plus some.

 

[bkral]

They are 315/70r17 Goodyear territory MT No lift.

Those do look incredible.

How do they run on the road? I had similar on my 5th gen 4runner and they were noticeable on the highway. 90% of my time in the truck is highway to and from work.

 

[kmershly]

In my experience with multiple Toyota vehicles, the onboard computer guesstimated MPG is never accurate... I rely on the old fashion method using the Fuelly App, cost is $7.99/year and totally worth every penny plus some.

Sadly, Fuelly is only available for iOS, so those using Android don't have that option.

I calculate my MPG very roughly based upon each fill up and I am running a little better than the Toyota onboard computer calculation.

It says 19.8 and according to my math I am running nearer 20.2.

 

[teghogh]

it maybe due to your 35s being the lightest on the market at 54lb each. can you share more pictures of your setup with stock suspension? any rubbing after having it for a while? any update on the MPG?

 

[Roots]

i think knowing the system and its modes is also important. I still consider myself learning these systems but here is how I think about it in this use case:

I guess think of it as an autopilot, keeping in mind it’s obviously NOT apples to apples here: It’s the same in that autopilots require a crew or single pilot to manage the system and monitor it, and it’s relying on good data entry to operate the way it’s expected to. In this case the data would be follow distance, meeting the parameters of the adaptive cruise, and the proper speed in the setting. But a plane doesn’t use the same autopilot modes for every phase of flight and neither does the system in the car. Some scenarios require a special mode that takes the parameters needed for that scenario into effect.

Where this translates is into Traffic Jam Assist mode. Traffic Jam Assist kicks in when the car has transitioned to a lower speed regime and senses parameters of slower to stop and go traffic with a vehicle close and in front of the car. It will slow and stop and start again, in Traffoc Jam assist mode.

In your scenario I can’t help but wonder, (and this isn’t a dig, it’s a reminder of the importance of knowing the limitations of our systems in our cars when we use them), if you were confused on how the system works on that scenario. It would be easy to think, oh the car will slow and stop (as it would in Traffic Jam Assist) but in your mode you didn’t have that protection running. Your system was in a mode of higher speed cruising, adaptive cruise. If you were to be able to stare at your display, it would have shown the car in front of you move over and now it’s clear sailing as far as it’s concerned, an acceleration to set speed was likely started per the way the system works.

I would certainly not want to test this theory (hence why it’s meant to assist not replace a driver and has limitations on its logic), but I’m guessing what the system would have done is accelerate to set speed until the car in front came into range and then probably gone into emergency brake mode at some point. Emergency Brake mode is just that. Emergency brake not something to be counted on and a backup to the primary system managing the vehicle in that scenario. THE DRIVER.

Again. This is not a dig. I think the take away is that this car is loaded with safety features and adaptive cruise is one of them. They can make a person lazy (just like an autopilot can). Heck I use the tech a ton just because I am at the state of learning and want to see if it helps with LC hypermilng. But we have to be aware of the holes in the system that could cause issues and this example is certainly one of them.

In aviation we use the skill of monitoring your FMA, Flight Mode Annunciators, which tell you the current parameters the auto flight system is operating in. They can and do change and sometimes it’s easy to miss but in doing so you lose certain IMPORTANT protections. So it should be part of the scan. Always. As it should be here, to the point that it’s second nature. For this case if Traffic Jam Assist isn’t active on the display, it will not manage a stopped car all of a sudden appearing at psuedo highway speed.

The driver has to drive the car regardless of mode, knowing there are limitations and failures possible.

Sorry if that got a little out in left field but I hope that helps!

 

[HarvLC]

I think the main issue with the focus on MPG for this vehicle is the association of Hybrid with efficiency ala Prius.

That is further compounded by the stated MPG which can be achieved but I assume many may be unfamiliar with turbos and how it directly impacts fuel consumption.

To over simplify, turbo actuation will deliver more power but increase cylinder temps and pressure (which can result in knocking), therefore computer is tuned to have the engine run rich for cylinder cooling to reduce knock.

I don’t know the exact pressure of the T24AFTS turbo but since it is a 2.4L 4 cylinder turbo engine it should be comparable to others on the market so between 13-15 or so. At max effort without turbo use, you will get approximately stated MPG or 1x fuel consumption, with 7 psi turbo, that’s half of 14 so now you’re at 1.5x fuel consumption. At 15 psi, 2x fuel consumption. Again this is an oversimplification.

TLDR Boost gauge is very useful tool in my opinion. If gas mileage is very meaningful to you, monitor the boost gauge and drive without turbo activation and that should get you to stated MPG.

Yep! In non-hybrid form, this turbo 4 generates the same torque and more hp than the 2X-larger, 4.7 V8 in my prior ‘02 LC. That fact alone tells you that the turbo is causing significant fuel consumption when on boost.

I primarily watch the boost gauges, rather than the mpg gauge.

 

[kmershly]

Yep! In non-hybrid form, this turbo 4 generates the same torque and more hp than the 2X-larger, 4.7 V8 in my prior ‘02 LC. That fact alone tells you that the turbo is causing significant fuel consumption when on boost.

I primarily watch the boost gauges, rather than the mpg gauge.

I am not an engineer, so my understanding maybe faulty, but it is my understanding that turbos in general have little to no effect in terms of fuel consumption.

Turbos run off the exhaust gases of the engine and as such do not take any engine power to run them, so they do not make the engine to work harder.

About the only drain on the engine is that they do create some back pressure, but in general that one draw back does not effect fuel consumption and generally turbos are considered to allow an engine to create more power without consuming more fuel.