Can you add a picture of where you connected your ground to the frame?
Wiring for a front winch
- Thread starter Quest4vertical
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I should be taking the front bumper off again this coming weekend and will try to remember to get a photo then.
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- #43
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- #44
I got a chance to install the fuse holder bracket along with the terminal bracket under the hood today. I ended up running 2/0 wire. The fuse is somewhat accessible through the battery cover hatch. The terminal bracket under the hood has enough space above it to add a tray for a Garmin Powerswitch. I have 2 extra sets of brackets if anyone is interested. Cheers!
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Hope 2/0 works out for you, that size will melt at 190 Amps and then catch fire before your fuse ever blows.
Nise clean install and great looking bracket though, good work on that!
Nise clean install and great looking bracket though, good work on that!
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- #46
The 00 or 2/0 cable that I have is rated at 325 amps.
That's good! With that I'm guessing insulation is rated for 105C and 280 Amps for insulation with engine bay temps accounted for?
In that case I would swap the fuse to a 250 Amp, or 300 Amp to prevent wire damage/fire.
When the insulation starts on fire it goes really quick, it almost instantaneously ignites the entire run of wire. I've seen it happen before and it's pretty crazy!
All depends on the winches max amp draw though.
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- #48
Yea, good advice, I think I will go with the 300 amp fuse and see what shakes out with some testing. The winch I'm looking at has a max of 350 amps. Engine bay temps accounted for. Never occurred to me what a PITA it would be with the battery in the back!
You have the Rago bumper with a Warn winch?
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Yes sir I do.
Looks great. Why didn't you do this 6 months ago so it would be all figured out before I got started on my project?
Also, really think you should put a pedestal sink in that bathroom on the blueprint.
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- #52
Hey, here's a question; I ran the wire along the driver's side frame rail, on the outside along with the factory harness. I jumped across the frame rail toward the front to get to the engine bay. The wire gets a little close to the body floor pans in this location, maybe 3/8", do you think this is OK?
Do you happen to have a picture?
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- #54
I'll try to get one next time I'm under there. it's a tricky spot.
Body mounts are pretty rigid and its sounds like your explaining running it across a cross member to the other side at the front? Shouldn't be an issue IMO.
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- #56
I went from the outside of the frame rail to the inside by running the wire over the top of the frame where there is not much clearance. I'm not sure how much the frame moves up and down independent of the body. I was concerned that it could be a pinch point.
I have my entire run on the top of the drivers side frame rail, both positive and negative side by side along side a wiring harness for much of the way. Toyota has brake lines, wiring harnesses and even hard fuel lines on top of similar diameter, the body mounts aren't going to flex enough to touch the wires unless maybe you ran it over a wire harness?
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- #58
Sounds similar to how I ran. I ran alongside that wiring harness that's on the outer edge of the rail, my wires are on top of the rail. The place it gets tight is when the wire routes over the rail and into the engine bay. And yes, it's primarily tight because I have to jump over those black fuel/brake lines.
In that area I have mine on the top inside of the frame rail not directly on top of the frame rail or over those brake lines.
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- #60
I may have to do a little adjusting
