What will resolve my unfortunate issues?

There are multiple threads on this forum about the OEM battery quality, and batteries dying from parasitic drain when parked for several days or if the tailgate or doors are left open for several hours, and especially in the winter... Most of these articles recommend switching to an Odyssey or optima group 48 H6 L3 AGM battery. If you're asking about the disconnect workaround, I think it came from the technical paper linked in this particular post: Arggh! Issues with starting battery in winter - any solutions?
Thank you, yes I wanted to read about the disconnect that was mentioned. I’ve tried keeping up with the posts about AGM but it’s a lot. I don’t want to be managing my battery monthly/etc, wish I had more know-how/patience like @EOD Guy but I’ll stick to living vicariously instead.

The OEM battery is not weak.
Well mine died on a 45min ferry ride in this balls cold Maine weather, battery is at least a year old as I’ve had it for a year this month. I’ve usually replaced OEM after 1-2yrs when we lived in the South West, is what it is. Picked up a Duracell branded 47/H5 battery at Sam’s Club for $139 while I was there
 
I thought the same until reading the paper elsewhere on this forum. If the author is right.. and he seems to know what he's talking about... In section 6 it says that if the sensor is unplugged it reverts to a steady 14.1 volt charge... which is higher than the overall average charge rate using the default 'smart' system. It becomes like an old school system all cars had until not that long ago... which might cause some gradual sulfation over time but the battery should still last 3-5 years. I decided to try it rather than upgrading right away when I haven't had issues yet. So far so good. Note he also says the driving with your headlights fully on all the time has the same effect... It overrides the smart sensor system. So that's a less 'drastic' way than disconnecting the sensors for those who are reluctant to do that. Here's the link to the paper: Toyota/Lexus 12v Battery Failures - Analysis of Charging Issues - Deep Dive Analysis & Workaround by /u/andy_why
A well written paper. Some on going questions are very clear regarding actual desing and serivce life of a typical lead acid consumer grade vehicle battery.
5 years under normal conditions is average and cosidred very good.
Each discharge is a life cycle.
Life cycles and charge state determine the actual service life.
Sulfation is reduced by peak charging, most if not all batteries like this treatment.
These lead acid batteries have a basic design life of 5 years.
Every discharge is a life cycle. Doors, tailgate, the stsart function is the least current draw normally and does not require much.
When i get the urge ill disconnect the 12v battery and connect a jump box, should start just fine.
Maybe someone has done this already?
 
Thank you, yes I wanted to read about the disconnect that was mentioned. I’ve tried keeping up with the posts about AGM but it’s a lot. I don’t want to be managing my battery monthly/etc, wish I had more know-how/patience like @EOD Guy but I’ll stick to living vicariously instead.


Well mine died on a 45min ferry ride in this balls cold Maine weather, battery is at least a year old as I’ve had it for a year this month. I’ve usually replaced OEM after 1-2yrs when we lived in the South West, is what it is. Picked up a Duracell branded 47/H5 battery at Sam’s Club for $139 while I was there
Batteries do not like cold weather, that could easily kill a small battery of the type in the vehicles and more.
Cold soaked batteries suck on discharge. Clearly you had things running and the state of charge is a big question.
If the OEM tires are any indication i agree the OEM batteries are not big and low potency from day one. in harsh condistions that will be obvious quickly as you have seen.
NorCal life is good. The LCs are Soccer Mom Mobiles from the factory, never intended for the robust wilderness treks as many spend 10's of thousands of dollars trying to make them. Wont ever be or do what a searious more robust vehicle will do from day one.
It will be very interesting to hear if you have condinbued battery issues.
Thx.
 
Re: The continual 12v battery issues and questions.
How obvious could it be that these Cruisers, at least the battery assist models were not intended for winches?
Think there are 12v battery problems now add a winch.
Oy Vey ya coulda had a truck.
 
Re: The continual 12v battery issues and questions.
How obvious could it be that these Cruisers, at least the battery assist models were not intended for winches?
Think there are 12v battery problems now add a winch.
Oy Vey ya coulda had a truck.
People don’t seem to be having any problems with winches on this truck.
 
A good science project will be to measure the current from the 12v system when the engine is in standby and the lights and AC or heater is on. Then see what the recharge current is when the engine starts up on its own.
How long does it run before standby again, that will tell allot.
 
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