What will resolve my unfortunate issues?

I am confused on the LC HP and Torque, It seems to me that the numbers can only be obtained when the battery has juice, If you are towing and using the extra power from the electric motor the battery will run down or you will not get the power advertised for any length of time.
Yeah you won’t be getting all the advertised power and torque continuously if that is what you are asking.

It has a ~1.9 kWh battery and a ~36kW electric motor. So at 100% output, the motor will drain the battery in 3 mins. In reality, it will probably run a somewhat longer and have a gradually decreasing power output since the battery will not be able to supply 100% of requested wattage when it drops below 30-40% of capacity. ECU will never let you get close to these though. I would be surprised if it would even let you get 100% output for 1 minute.

But overall, this is not an issue for real world usage. Gas engine also generates max power at close to 6000 RPMs, but you cannot keep it at that level continuously since oil will overheat.
 
I keep the "boost gauges" screen on my instrument panel most of the time, which shows the charge of the hybrid battery, and the vehicle does a pretty good job of keeping it between ~40-80% (assuming the bars are accurate)...it really only calls upon the battery for a power boost at low RPMs, and rarely runs it while cruising. I've never done any towing in mine, but I assume that while it may drain the battery a bit faster when starting from a stop and when accelerating, it should also do a decent enough job of keeping it charged enough at other times to what it needs to do.
Gauge will show 100% charged when the actual SoC is about 75%, and fully drained when it is 25%. I verified these with an OBD scanner.
 
Working on the Soccer Mom Mobile all AM.
Starting to realize what i want for the upcoming expiations is probably more towards a Tundra hybrid due to all the gear and needing to be able to get to it easily when needed.
Will play this summer, i have 2 years to get it figured out.

If a lot of gear is involved it’s tough to beat a pickup for the sheer volume of “stuff” you can put in the bed. With the easy availability of storage solutions like a Decked drawer system you can get weather proof full length pullout drawers in the bed, and still load over 2000lbs on top of the drawer system.

The only caveat I have to point out is that the current crop of 1/2 ton pickups quickly become hobbled by low payload if many option boxes are checked.

Toyota may or may not have figured out how to build V35A-FTS twin turbo V6’s that don’t eat their own main bearings, and they haven’t expanded the recall to cover hybrids which fail at the same rate. Hopefully they do get it truly resolved.

The HD pickups are all well suited to higher payloads but the unladen ride quality might be objectionable. You do get much more robust fully floating axles, plenty of payload (if you’re worried about it), and far superior engine choices for a truck. None of the gas V8’s on offer in the Ram, GM, or Ford HD’s use cylinder deactivation nonsense so they are pretty reliable. The diesels all make monstrous power and can return surprisingly good fuel efficiency for what those trucks are, and the more you load them down or work them, the greater the fuel efficiency advantage of the diesel will show vs the same work load on the gas truck.
 
Yeah you won’t be getting all the advertised power and torque continuously if that is what you are asking.

It has a ~1.9 kWh battery and a ~36kW electric motor. So at 100% output, the motor will drain the battery in 3 mins. In reality, it will probably run a somewhat longer and have a gradually decreasing power output since the battery will not be able to supply 100% of requested wattage when it drops below 30-40% of capacity. ECU will never let you get close to these though. I would be surprised if it would even let you get 100% output for 1 minute.

But overall, this is not an issue for real world usage. Gas engine also generates max power at close to 6000 RPMs, but you cannot keep it at that level continuously since oil will overheat.
Thanks that is what I was getting at. So if I were to pull a trailer uphill for a long distance, I would be at the non hybrid 2.4 power rating most of the time ? Not sure how the algorithm works when towing ?
 
Thanks that is what I was getting at. So if I were to pull a trailer uphill for a long distance, I would be at the non hybrid 2.4 power rating most of the time ? Not sure how the algorithm works when towing ?

Correct. The tow rating is lower on the LC to reflect a lower continuous power rating than say a GX500 or LX600.
 
Fuel capacity vs range.
Rear space limits due to the battery box.
Weight due to the battery box.
Love the dealer which is the only deal breaker for the obvious fix.
The slow wide radius pavement turning, will need to compare the the GX.
HORSEPOWER*
349
DRIVETRAIN
Full-time 4WD
I beleive the gas tank is 4-6 gallons more, can't find the spec.
No rush but the Cruiser may out live its fully functional use is 2 more years.
A perfect daily driver soccer mom mobile just the same, i doubt i'll part with it.
View attachment 58653
I'm a little surprised by a couple of these complaints, specifically the turning radius. The radius seems pretty damned small to me, maybe only slightly larger (if at all) than the '18 grand Cherokee that I just traded for the LC.
I also don't really understand the complaints about the battery height/size. Does everyone carry stuff that much that you really need that extra 6" or so of height? I'd prefer if the rear deck was shorter for the sake of it being lower for getting the dog in and out, but she can stand up just fine inside and she's a German Shepherd. I guess I just don't understand the complaint about it taking up space in the back because I can't imagine myself needing that extra height for cargo much, if ever.
 
Atleast out west, the GX has far superior range on the highway. This is because of the higher speed limits and mountainous terrain. In the GX I'll get around 400 mile range and the LC 300 miles.
 
All the real Lc problems are solvable-
1) range... Aftermarket tanks now available from LRA etc
2) radiator support vulnerability - Slee cross member
3) theft - multiple immobilizers available
4) weak oem battery - get odyssey or optima and/or disconnect the battery health sensor cable
5) fuel line disconnection in deep puddles at speed - a couple of well placed cable ties solves
Did I miss any? Pretty sure every thing else is a first world problem such as not enough subwoofer punch.

That said I really hope Toyota fixes all of the above in the next gen or refresh. I'd gladly trade up if I haven't solved them all yet in my own.
 
Last edited:
At 50k miles my asks are small:

  • Physical button (or shortcut) to turn the screen off. I have this on another car and I love not having to stare at a bright screen on night drives with a button push
  • Start/stop defeat. Persistent setting if possible
  • Higher resolution gauge screen

A decade from now I hope the last of the 250s will have incorporated these and I will get another one and pass this one to my son.

But who am I kidding. I like it so much I'll probably get another one with or without the features above.
 
All the real Lc problems are solvable-
1) range... Aftermarket tanks now available from LRA etc
2) radiator support vulnerability - Slee cross member
3) theft - multiple immobilizers available
4) weak oem battery - get odyssey or optima and/or disconnect the battery health sensor cable
5) fuel line disconnection in deep puddles at speed - a couple of well placed cable ties solves
Did I miss any? Pretty sure every thing else is a first world problem such as not enough subwoofer punch.

That said I really hope Toyota fixes all of the above in the next gen or refresh. I'd gladly trade up if I haven't solved them all yet in my own.
Can you link my to #4? I hadn’t seen anything about this
 
Atleast out west, the GX has far superior range on the highway. This is because of the higher speed limits and mountainous terrain. In the GX I'll get around 400 mile range and the LC 300 miles.
LC will get higher range than GX under equal conditions, including at higher speed.
 
Can you link my to #4? I hadn’t seen anything about this
There are multiple threads on this forum about the OEM battery quality, and batteries dying from parasitic drain when parked for several days or if the tailgate or doors are left open for several hours, and especially in the winter... Most of these articles recommend switching to an Odyssey or optima group 48 H6 L3 AGM battery. If you're asking about the disconnect workaround, I think it came from the technical paper linked in this particular post: Arggh! Issues with starting battery in winter - any solutions?
 
While I'm not 100% sure how the 12v battery sensor works on the LC, I'm fairly certain it measures the real-time voltage of the 12v battery and regulates the input voltage from the DC-to-DC inverter to maintain optimum voltage, balancing the draw on the battery with the input from the inverter (much like a conventional alternator/regulator system). I'm guessing and purely a guess, If the sensor is unplugged the system would see zero draw (because you eliminated it by unplugging it), I'm not sure if the charging system would default to (as an example) 14v input or 11v trickle...... I have no idea, but I'm leaning to the trickle side, which would in effect be counterproductive.

Just my opinion tho'
 
I'm a little surprised by a couple of these complaints, specifically the turning radius. The radius seems pretty damned small to me, maybe only slightly larger (if at all) than the '18 grand Cherokee that I just traded for the LC.
I also don't really understand the complaints about the battery height/size. Does everyone carry stuff that much that you really need that extra 6" or so of height? I'd prefer if the rear deck was shorter for the sake of it being lower for getting the dog in and out, but she can stand up just fine inside and she's a German Shepherd. I guess I just don't understand the complaint about it taking up space in the back because I can't imagine myself needing that extra height for cargo much, if ever.
You really do not need tons of room for soccer balls, flags, all sortsof kiddy team stuff, agreed.
For real searious expeditions one does.
You have potential of being a top rate soccer mom if not already.
 
You really do not need tons of room for soccer balls, flags, all sortsof kiddy team stuff, agreed.
For real searious expeditions one does.
You have potential of being a top rate soccer mom if not already.
I explain that I don't understand/agree with a couple of your complaints about the LC250 and your response is to insult me?
 
I explain that I don't understand/agree with a couple of your complaints about the LC250 and your response is to insult me?
Its a compliment in the circles that embrace your feelings and orientation.
No insult intended. An observation and opinion only.
 
Its a compliment in the circles that embrace your feelings and orientation.
No insult intended. An observation and opinion only.

This does seem to have more room and range than the Land Cruiser or the GX550.

TheMiniVan.webp
 
While I'm not 100% sure how the 12v battery sensor works on the LC, I'm fairly certain it measures the real-time voltage of the 12v battery and I'm guessing and purely a guess, If the sensor is unplugged the system would see zero draw (because you eliminated it by unplugging it), I'm not sure if the charging system would default to (as an example) 14v input or 11v trickle...... I have no idea, but I'm leaning to the trickle side, which would in effect be counterproductive.

Just my opinion tho'
I thought the same until reading the paper elsewhere on this forum. If the author is right.. and he seems to know what he's talking about... In section 6 it says that if the sensor is unplugged it reverts to a steady 14.1 volt charge... which is higher than the overall average charge rate using the default 'smart' system. It becomes like an old school system all cars had until not that long ago... which might cause some gradual sulfation over time but the battery should still last 3-5 years. I decided to try it rather than upgrading right away when I haven't had issues yet. So far so good. Note he also says the driving with your headlights fully on all the time has the same effect... It overrides the smart sensor system. So that's a less 'drastic' way than disconnecting the sensors for those who are reluctant to do that. Here's the link to the paper: Toyota/Lexus 12v Battery Failures - Analysis of Charging Issues - Deep Dive Analysis & Workaround by /u/andy_why
 
Supporting Vendors View all →
StickerFab
Back
Top Bottom